I considered doing that but would have to find out where it was bought.
My TM is quite wonderful.
A wonderful size, wonderful u/i, a wonderful side spill of light for great illumination, and at least good throw.
It makes my traditional throwers seem really redundant!
Sure, the old lights throw more, but not much more.
The old throwers like my big bulky RRT-3 SST-50 have so relatively little side spill brightness, that they somehow seem to lack "illumination".
However, I do notice that as such, the old traditional throwers are great for "covert" operations by SAS troops/soldiers etc, because a lack of side spill will prevent disturbing the enemy, while their out-right throw will assist in hunting with a scope.
For a normal person, the TM is a great outdoor light; I wouldn't really recommend using it in your bedroom, esp with a lowest mode of 200 whopping lumens; the TM11 could be a lot more bedroom friendly with a 1 lumen mode like my old RRT-3 SST-50.
Of course, it's very hard to have many multiple modes with a simple ergonomic side switch like the TM, but then the RRT-3's magnetic ring with 8 modes is very unergonomic to use single-handed in a large tubular flashlight, thus the TM11 is what it is...
Last edited by peterharvey73; 12-15-2011 at 02:14 PM.
Wow, that is one impressive little light. I'm really surprised that it only out throws the lumintop td15x by a small margin.
Personally, I think that every light (IF possible) should have a really love emergency mode..
Wuhuu, TM11 just got dropped off by the postal service :-) Now home to unpack it!
One word. Wow! The TM11 is amazing. The amount of light is incredible compared to its size. I am truly impressed. But damn, it gets hot very, very fast. Just a totally awesome light.
Just was wondering, where are Nitecore products manufactured?
Last edited by mauiblue; 12-20-2011 at 02:26 PM.
Engineered and manufactured in China, but even if it is engineered outside China, chances are, it will still be manufactured in China anyway...
whoaaa this tiny beasttttt is my next year whistlist
I've had mine for 2 weeks now. Runs on AW 3100.
Been using it in non-emergency situations. Having LOTS of fun with this light. Tiny monster indeed.
my typin is bad and my speeling is evenworse...
my typin is bad and my speeling is evenworse...
Really tiny monster, like it.
I wonder if the AW 2900 flat tops will work, since I read that AW 3100's will work, can anyone advise if this theory might be correct?
I took my 3x AW 2900 mAH Flat Tops from my old RRT-3 SST-50, and I put one at a time, then two at a time then three at a time into my Tiny Munster - NONE work!
However, my Redilast 3100 mAH work whether using one, two, three, or four.
On close examination of AW's photo's below, it is possible that he may have raised the positive contacts in his AW 3100 mAH Flat Tops a little to make positive contact.
The old 2900 mAH seem to have flush positive contacts at the top.
We must ask AW...
AW says that both his 2900 and his new 3100 mAH batteries are both Flat Tops!
Now, it is a mystery as to why the old 2900 mAH don't work in my TM, while the new 3100 mAH work in another member's TM???
Just wondering if everyone here is measuring and comparing voltages on all 4 of the batteries when taken out of the light to charge. The last time I charged my Callie's Kustoms from the light, 2 of them took considerably longer to charge than the other 2. In fact, 2 of them wouldn't start charging at a 1A rate, I had to bump it down to 0.5A for them to start charging. Unfortunately I did not check voltages prior to charging due to being in a hurry and not having my DMM handy, but I will the next time I charge. At any rate, my theory is that I may not be getting a good connection on all of my flat top batteries and the light is, in fact, running on only 2 of them. I should be able to confirm or debunk this theory the next time I charge.
I just pulled the batteries to check and found them all at 4.05V, so they seem to be all working as expected and are tied in parallel when in the light. It's still troubling that there is no way to confirm they are all making a connection while in the light until after you've already run it. There isn't a lot of room for them to move around, but since flat-tops seem to be hit or miss in the TM11, it would be nice to have a confirmation that all batteries are making contact. As someone else suggested previously, springs in the bottom of the battery compartment at the negative terminal would greatly improve odds of all batteries consistently making their connections. I would recommend to everyone using this light that they check the voltages on all batteries EVERY SINGLE TIME prior to charging to make sure that all batteries are making contact and discharging equally. It would be easy for one of the metal tabs at the negative end to get flattened out and have one or more batteries no longer making contact, thus causing the remaining battery(ies) to have a higher drain on them. I would not want to have the full current drain on turbo mode coming from just 1 or even 2 batteries.
In any case, I don't know if actual soldered springs would do any better. I've notice a lot of flat-top cells have the insulation wrapping rising higher than the contacts, and I've seen plenty that won't activate on flat contact plates in the heads of lights that do have tailcap springs.
It basically comes down to flat-top cells not being fully support in this light (like many other lights, but for different reasons).
So (and not to derail the thread), are flat tops flat to make more room for capacity so to speak? Don't seem like a good alternative to me
I myself have problems with the Redilast 3100's in the TM11 and flat tops should be even worse...
I simply added a dot of solder to each of my AW 2900 cells. They each work perfectly in the TM11.