As Henry always stated, this thread is for the discussion of the use, features, function etc. of the HDS EDC/Rotary lights. Keep it clean and friendly and on topic. Thanks guys. GO!
Continued from # 15.
As Henry always stated, this thread is for the discussion of the use, features, function etc. of the HDS EDC/Rotary lights. Keep it clean and friendly and on topic. Thanks guys. GO!
Continued from # 15.
McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review MY LIGHTS!! Why buy a cheap bright light when a dim expensive one will do?
Okay, last thread I discussed not being able to get my tactical out of lock out unless the battery is a fresh one, if the battery is used a lot, it wont come out of lock out. I have tried the batteries when the light doesn't work in other flashlights and they work fine. I press three times like normal and nothing. The light still does the flashes to indicate it's in lock out and wont turn on.
Is something wrong with the light? I just don't get it. Parasitic drain maybe?
Would it be antisocial to mod a Titanium Clicky to an XML?
Now just waiting for my JHanko LF3XT to be made.
My Lights In Detail
No. I think it would be cool. You just gotta have the guts to do it.I don't. Mostly because on that one, I wouldn't want to void the warranty. I had to send a Ti Clicky to Henry for fix-it time once, and I woulda been pretty unhappy if he refused to due to my modding it. But, you are not me and I am not you, so if you want to do it, go for it. Then show us what you did.
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McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review MY LIGHTS!! Why buy a cheap bright light when a dim expensive one will do?
Have a question for you guys. Is there anyone that I can have mod my HDS clicky to fix the dark center mass in the beam. Im new to modding lights and am not going to attempt this myself. Its driving me crazy and im almost to the point of selling it and buying a Mac's XM-L EDC. Well I might buy one anyway. But any and all advice is appreciated.
The love of light is the reason why I don't walk in darkness. But darkness has it's beauty...Sadly, my lights are much more beautiful!!
Beam shots Night Trekking with HDS high CRI and McGizmo Haiku & Mule high CRI
That's odd, my doughnut hole is gone at around 4-5 inches and I believe that is the norm (rotary 200 XPG). If anyone alters the light you can potentially lose the warranty. I'd call Henry before I modded anything.
200 EDC owners - have 200 lumens been sufficient for most of your tasks?
All my EDC lights are sub-200 lumens. Even the customs. I think that 200 is plenty for 99% of uses.
McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review MY LIGHTS!! Why buy a cheap bright light when a dim expensive one will do?
The love of light is the reason why I don't walk in darkness. But darkness has it's beauty...Sadly, my lights are much more beautiful!!
Beam shots Night Trekking with HDS high CRI and McGizmo Haiku & Mule high CRI
In my opinion, anything more than 200 lumen is a want, not a need. I am happy running my lights at 100 lumen or less and find that it covers most of my needs. Just to make sure I am certain of what I am talking about, I went on a trekking trip using only a 80 or 90 lumen McGizmo high CRI Haiku and realized that it is enough. Of course I am not denying that the more we have the merrier it will be, but day to day usage who really needs more?
The love of light is the reason why I don't walk in darkness. But darkness has it's beauty...Sadly, my lights are much more beautiful!!
Beam shots Night Trekking with HDS high CRI and McGizmo Haiku & Mule high CRI
I'm there with the idea that a decent 100 lumens is enough for most purposes and it's up to the buyer to realize if their needs go beyond. For purposes where you might want more throw it's hard to not benefit from the extra output that most lights now offer, but I too find the outputs from my high CRI Clicky to be plenty most of the time, as are my other 'low output' high CRI lights - Haiku and V10R.
Marduke - Solitaire...I've seen matches which are brighter AND have a longer runtime. 光陰矢の如し
Just recieved and opened the package with my new Rotary 200 enclosed. The rotary ring was a bit stiff but after a couple of twists it is feeling better already. There is one question i would like to ask though?
I have a silver bezel for this light on the way from Henry and i just went to unscrew the bezel like i do on my legacy 170T and the whole section beneath the bezel, including the reflector started to unscrew instead. Should the bezel come off the same as my legacy or will the silver bezel for my rotary come with the reflector as well?
I have tried to grip the bezel just to turn that but there is very little to grab hold of.
Help!
I've actually never been able to separate the bezel from the reflector. I don't know if they used Locktite or something similar during assembly. I haven't taken tools to it yet because I'm afraid of causing damage.
I don't know how the legacy comes apart but my rotary comes apart exactly the same as yours,if i loosen the bezel,the lens & reflector come apart.
I e-mailed Henry yesterday & i got a reply from him within the hour so if you've got any questions about any of his lights i'd just drop him a line.
For 90% of the time 200 is enough for me,what i would say though if Henry decided to build a 400 lumen rotary or clicky for that matter,i would be ordering one
as soon as i could.The thing is if you had a 400 lumen flashlight made by Henry you would have the choice to programme it to whatever level of light you would
want all the way up to 400 lumens.That's what i'd find really apealling for 90% of the time you could have it at say between 100 to 200 lumens,then it would be
great to be able to push out 400 lumens for that 10% of the time whenever you felt you needed it.![]()
IIRC you can damage the reflector or LED on the old legacy lights by tightening down the reflector too much. I believe the new lights are designed so that you cannot over tighten the reflector, but do so at your own risk, I don't want my advice ruining someones light. I have also had a hard time getting the bezel separate from the reflector, but I have never removed the bezel completely. I believe the new bezel you ordered will be a bezel without the reflector, the bezel should unscrew off of the reflector assembly I believe, but it is a tight fit.
Last edited by TyJo; 12-07-2011 at 05:20 PM.
I feel a bit of a knob but I have quelled my panic. I have managed to separate the head and the bezel assembly is very like the 170T I have already. I have had a bit of a mess with the rotary this very evening and it is truly the flashlight of the gods. Keep that good stuff coming Henry, this is the flashlight of champions.
If you could not tell already by my subtle words, it freaking rocks.
I completely agree. I have a 170 lumen HDS light. It's plenty bright. I don't really see much use for a brighter light in this form factor. I guess if a 400 lumen LED were available with similar runtime on a single cell, then, sure, why not? But honestly, with that much light, I'm liable to want a bigger reflector, or other optimizations towards throw, and probably more runtime than could be had with a single cell as well. So I don't really see the use. Honestly, for this form factor, I'm with you - 100 lumens is plenty bright in my opinion. I'd guess that 90% of the time I use this light at about 20 lumens.
A big, wide rubber band around each section should give you the grip necessary to separate them without tools
I haven't seen any Loctite in the newer models.
The rubber band method has opened at least half a dozen of the new models for me. Got mine at a local hardware store in the check-out lane with other impulse items.
I've just pulled the trigger on a 170T to go with my rotary exec,i guess i'm going to want the R1B-200 next,god these lights have got me bad.
...I think I already want another one! The 170t was what I was originally going to get, before the 200 Rotary.
I could just see a flush button clicky sitting next to the rotary here?
How hard is it to get the custom colours from Henry? (love the pics of people with the orange).
Has anyone just got an existing HDS and had it coloured somewhere? (sure someone will have). I have had many PC case parts powder coated before... didn't know what would be best for a HDS, hard wearing finish etc, and a process that would not damage the light!
Alright Ivan,hope your well.There was one for sale in the market place last week,it went straight away though some lucky person was in there like a shot.
I actualy was going to buy the other rotary from the one i have or a 200T but i searched the web high & low & today while i was at work a mint unused
170T came up for sale with a spare battery compartment at a really good price so i got straight in & bought it.I should have it by Mon/Tues so that was
a bonus because i was going to order direct from the U.S.The thing is i've got nearly half the money left on what i would of had to pay.So you know what
that meen's,i still want the R1B-200 & i've got half the money already.As my wife says it's better than wasting it on drink.![]()
Haha....my wife would say the exact same thing (she does actually). I dont have any money spare at the moment, now I got the Rotary, but I think as a treat from my new job I will be starting soon...I will have to get my self a HDS 170!
And apart from the weather here (100mph winds), im just peachy at the moment...actually just adjusting some of the Rotary options
The weekend approaches, and that means time to look at, and desire new lights!![]()
That rotary does look good but for now I am pretty happy with my older 140GT & just ordered a flat tail cap for it.
These lights are work horses.
Keep up the good work Henry.
Happiness is having a high rate of fire.