HDS Systems EDC # 16

[Phil40000]

I am struggling with the programming on my HDS lights, i had a little mess with my T170 but as the standard settings are so well thought out in the first place i did not pursue it at the time. Now i have my 200 Rotary i want to set it up the way i like things. Is there an idiots guide to getting in the customisation menu and changing things, i read the booklet and card that came with the light but it goes over my head.

[TyJo]

I am struggling with the programming on my HDS lights, i had a little mess with my T170 but as the standard settings are so well thought out in the first place i did not pursue it at the time. Now i have my 200 Rotary i want to set it up the way i like things. Is there an idiots guide to getting in the customisation menu and changing things, i read the booklet and card that came with the light but it goes over my head.

I think the manual does a pretty good job once things actually click, no pun intended (seriously I just noticed I said that when I proofread my post). If you can post what your exact problem is I'm sure you will get some help. I love the programming questions/discussion on the HDS lights. Are you able to get into programming (enable programming)?

EDIT: This might help, I posted something similar in the last thread.

To enable customization: turn light on, unscrew light completely, screw light back together. It will turn on dimly, immediately click the light quickly repeatedly until it stops turning off, once it stops turning off hold the button down until the light turns off. Customization is now enabled.

To program a preset: Turn the light on with customization still enabled. Select your preset that you want to program. Double click press hold (2 clicks followed by a 3rd click where you keep the button held down). Now you can customize that preset. Click until you have the preset you want. Once you have the correct choice hold the button down and it will save that selection.

Those are the basics IMO. You can scroll backward with a double click, program all the features in the options menu, and do a few other things. I think everything comes easier once you figure out enabling customization and programming a preset. Hope that helps, if not ask away.

[flatline]

For all you guys wondering if 200 lumens or 100 lumens is enough, here's my two cents.

I have a high CRI Clicky and 99% of the time, I'm using it at 30 lumens or less (the vast majority of my use is at 3 lumens). Besides showing off, the only time I use 100 lumens is when I'm testing the battery. If I push it up to 100 lumens and it blinks, I know that it's time to recharge the cell.

In the year and a half that I've had my Clicky, there has only been one time when I needed more than 30 lumens: it was a bright sunny day and I needed to quickly inspect the crawl space under a house. I didn't have time to let my eyes adapt and using the full 100 lumens let me see what I needed to see, but really I could have used much, much more (it's hard to compete with the sun!).

--flatline

[TyJo]

For all you guys wondering if 200 lumens or 100 lumens is enough, here's my two cents.

I have a high CRI Clicky and 99% of the time, I'm using it at 30 lumens or less (the vast majority of my use is at 3 lumens). Besides showing off, the only time I use 100 lumens is when I'm testing the battery. If I push it up to 100 lumens and it blinks, I know that it's time to recharge the cell.

In the year and a half that I've had my Clicky, there has only been one time when I needed more than 30 lumens: it was a bright sunny day and I needed to quickly inspect the crawl space under a house. I didn't have time to let my eyes adapt and using the full 100 lumens let me see what I needed to see, but really I could have used much, much more (it's hard to compete with the sun!).

--flatline

My usage is similar, I find myself using the lowest mode on my rotary most of the time. Sometimes I slightly bump up the output if I'm in a situation that I'm not dark adapted to or there is light pollution. I also use the click press hold to get to max frequently when I want a lot of light.

Do you carry spare cells? I only get a couple minutes when my HDS gets low on a RCR123 so I keep my RCRs topped off and always leave the house with a fully charged cell. Li-ions are nice since they don't suffer any ill effects from frequent charging.

[flatline]

My usage is similar, I find myself using the lowest mode on my rotary most of the time. Sometimes I slightly bump up the output if I'm in a situation that I'm not dark adapted to or there is light pollution. I also use the click press hold to get to max frequently when I want a lot of light.

Do you carry spare cells? I only get a couple minutes when my HDS gets low on a RCR123 so I keep my RCRs topped off and always leave the house with a fully charged cell. Li-ions are nice since they don't suffer any ill effects from frequent charging.

I do carry a spare in my holster, but I've never needed it. The one time I let my cell get low enough that it blinked at max output, I simply switched to another light with a fresh cell and continued my work. I've never tested how much runtime is left at 3 lumens when the light begins to blink at 100 lumens, but I've always assumed it would be more than just a couple of minutes.

--flatline

[pobox1475]

I feel the same way... I'd be more then happy with 100 high CRI lumens.

I am willing to pull the trigger once they become available .

[mau91]

How significant is the difference in throw between the 170 and the 200? I know that HDS lights aren't meant to be super throwers, and I'm really considering the Rotary because I like how I can set any brightness level I need before turning it on, but I don't really want to sacrifice too much throw.

[Kgp]

I am willing to pull the trigger once they become available .

The thing I don't understand is with the demand of these lights, why henry won't up the supply. I understand he is having issues, but broaden your horizon. If he is a tiny 1 man show, hire some employees for goodness sake. I have been waiting on one of these lights for well over a year. I'm about to give up. This couple month crap is just that... Crap. There is opportunity for a lot of money to be made and I don't understand why people are sleeping on this.

[davyro]

The rotary's have exactly the same throw as a 200T so i'd expect them to have a slightly better throw than a 170T so you would be gaining in throw not sacrificing.

[davyro]

The thing I don't understand is with the demand of these lights, why henry won't up the supply. I understand he is having issues, but broaden your horizon. If he is a tiny 1 man show, hire some employees for goodness sake. I have been waiting on one of these lights for well over a year. I'm about to give up. This couple month crap is just that... Crap. There is opportunity for a lot of money to be made and I don't understand why people are sleeping on this.

If you've bought direct from Henry & your still waiting after a year i would have been e-mailing him at least once a week to find out what was happening.

[Phil40000]

I think the manual does a pretty good job once things actually click, no pun intended (seriously I just noticed I said that when I proofread my post). If you can post what your exact problem is I'm sure you will get some help. I love the programming questions/discussion on the HDS lights. Are you able to get into programming (enable programming)?

EDIT: This might help, I posted something similar in the last thread.

To enable customization: turn light on, unscrew light completely, screw light back together. It will turn on dimly, immediately click the light quickly repeatedly until it stops turning off, once it stops turning off hold the button down until the light turns off. Customization is now enabled.

To program a preset: Turn the light on with customization still enabled. Select your preset that you want to program. Double click press hold (2 clicks followed by a 3rd click where you keep the button held down). Now you can customize that preset. Click until you have the preset you want. Once you have the correct choice hold the button down and it will save that selection.

Those are the basics IMO. You can scroll backward with a double click, program all the features in the options menu, and do a few other things. I think everything comes easier once you figure out enabling customization and programming a preset. Hope that helps, if not ask away.

Thanks so much for taking the time to post this, i will have a go tonight trying to change the settings and i will report back. As you say once you have got the hang of it it will become second nature.

Regarding the throw being different on the 200 than the 170 i was always under the impression that the up to 170 lights use the golden dragon emmiter which is smaller than the 200 emmiter (XP-G?) so more of a throwy beam. Before buying my 170T i asked the same question and that was the answer i kept getting back, that the 170 is a bit better than the 200 is for throwing. When i compare my 170 to my 200 the 200 has a cooler beam and a slightly larger and more diffused hot spot than the 170.

[mau91]

Regarding the throw being different on the 200 than the 170 i was always under the impression that the up to 170 lights use the golden dragon emmiter which is smaller than the 200 emmiter (XP-G?) so more of a throwy beam. Before buying my 170T i asked the same question and that was the answer i kept getting back, that the 170 is a bit better than the 200 is for throwing. When i compare my 170 to my 200 the 200 has a cooler beam and a slightly larger and more diffused hot spot than the 170.

That's what I've read too. Makes me wish the Rotary could come with a 170 lumen Golden Dragon emitter.

[davyro]

Thanks so much for taking the time to post this, i will have a go tonight trying to change the settings and i will report back. As you say once you have got the hang of it it will become second nature.

Regarding the throw being different on the 200 than the 170 i was always under the impression that the up to 170 lights use the golden dragon emmiter which is smaller than the 200 emmiter (XP-G?) so more of a throwy beam. Before buying my 170T i asked the same question and that was the answer i kept getting back, that the 170 is a bit better than the 200 is for throwing. When i compare my 170 to my 200 the 200 has a cooler beam and a slightly larger and more diffused hot spot than the 170.

The 170T I've just bought should arrive on Mon/Tues so I'll be able to compare it to my rotary & find out what the difference is.I e-mailed Henry last week to ask
if there was a difference between the 200T & the rotary's & he replied that they should be the same.Having said that they have the same Led where the 170T has
the smaller golden dragon,so it could be the case that the 170T does throw further.

[FPSRelic]

The 170T I've just bought should arrive on Mon/Tues so I'll be able to compare it to my rotary & find out what the difference is.I e-mailed Henry last week to ask
if there was a difference between the 200T & the rotary's & he replied that they should be the same.Having said that they have the same Led where the 170T has
the smaller golden dragon,so it could be the case that the 170T does throw further.

Check out goinggear's review of the different clicky versions on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaouqpHy0fs

You can see with the beamshots that the 170 lumen version has a more focused beam than the 200 lunem one.

[davyro]

Check out goinggear's review of the different clicky versions on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaouqpHy0fs

You can see with the beamshots that the 170 lumen version has a more focused beam than the 200 lunem one.

Thanks for the link FPSRelic i will have a look now

[FaithinGod]

Dear HDS flashlight owners,

I read in another thread that a member (340wedge) had an HDS click switch fail after a few months from using it (clicking) 30 to 70 times a day (he-or she-also had several other flashlights fail even sooner from that amount of clicking).

But I have read here on CPF, (and it's been confirmed), that the HDS click switch is rated at one million cycles (clicks). Meaning, that even 100 cycles/clicks a day, for 365 days (12 months) is still only 36,500 clicks/cycles, not close to one million.

So my question, (out of strong desire to find a long life, reliable click switch flashlight), is if any of you have experienced the same failure from clicking your HDS flashlight in that range of 30-70 times per day for a few months (or the equivelant in total clicks but over a different time frame)?

Thank you for any experience and thoughts you can offer.

FaithinGod

[DM51]

the HDS click switch is rated at one million cycles (clicks).

The switch may be rated for that, but I rather doubt the rubber boot would last that number of cycles without cracks appearing.

[FaithinGod]

I did confirm with the HDS flashlight owner (340wedge) that his post was about the click switch itself failing (not specifically the rubber boot).

FaithinGod

[FaithinGod]

deleted, double post error.

[Phil40000]

From my experience with accelerated wear on the raised rubber button on my 170T caused by the friction of my coat/clothes (when using the HDS kydex holster which 'holds' the light a bit more to the side thus causing contact with clothes, i was going through a rubber boot every 6 weeks) the rubber button is far more likely to crack or persish from a severe lack of use rather than extreme use. Also, when i worked a maintainence engineer this was always the case with rubber and similar materials we encountered. One of the first things i was told as an apprentice was that an older machine would be more problematic than a well used one which was worn in and always warm. It is very similar with motorcars as well actually.

As for the actual electronic switch that the poster is asking about i believe that the HDS switch is one of the more hardy designs out there some people
claim that a twist switch action will be more reliable but it is all relative. It would be fair to say the twist style lights have a simpler way of working, but ultimately wear will still occurr in the threads. Also it depends how hard one presses the switch as well!

[AZPops]

I'm having a problem with my 170T's raised switch, but it's presently not consistent. It will and has at times not respond when clicking it off or on, but will have to repeat clicking a few times before it does respond. However, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I'm waiting for the switch either fail and or be more consistent before contacting you (if you’re Henry).

I am also making a conscious effort on how I'm initiating the click, since I've read that the switch can be temperamental to the way it is pressed/used (?).

This hick-up started pretty much after the first few weeks of use. However the Rotary’s raised switch is fine.

Thanks!

[FaithinGod]

Thank you for the replies Phil40000, and AZPops.

My question about the HDS switch life cycle, is from being a hopeful owner (I'm not Henry-HDS Systems-inquiring about the issue). HDS Systems (Henry's) postings here in the forum, at least those I have seen, are clearly designated as his own.

FaithinGod

[smiler82]

The thing I don't understand is with the demand of these lights, why henry won't up the supply. I understand he is having issues, but broaden your horizon. If he is a tiny 1 man show, hire some employees for goodness sake. I have been waiting on one of these lights for well over a year. I'm about to give up. This couple month crap is just that... Crap. There is opportunity for a lot of money to be made and I don't understand why people are sleeping on this.

This friday will be 11 weeks for me. To be honest, I have been telling myself that it's not an issue and the product is worth the wait, and I know that it is. Lately though, I have had hard time not requesting a refund from Henry and then going to one of the other online vendors and ordering from them. I'm a consumer. I see many of you have ordered elsewhere and are getting your lights in just a few days. Waiting is not an issue for me when there is no other way. But in this case there is. I agree that Henry has a supply/fulfillment issue and I really hope he gets it worked out and is able to provide his product in a more timely manner. For his part, he has always responded promptly to my emails and has not made any effort to hide anything. I have worked for a small business in the past, and I understand these types of issues can arise.

[pjandyho]

This friday will be 11 weeks for me. To be honest, I have been telling myself that it's not an issue and the product is worth the wait, and I know that it is. Lately though, I have had hard time not requesting a refund from Henry and then going to one of the other online vendors and ordering from them. I'm a consumer. I see many of you have ordered elsewhere and are getting your lights in just a few days. Waiting is not an issue for me when there is no other way. But in this case there is. I agree that Henry has a supply/fulfillment issue and I really hope he gets it worked out and is able to provide his product in a more timely manner. For his part, he has always responded promptly to my emails and has not made any effort to hide anything. I have worked for a small business in the past, and I understand these types of issues can arise.

If you are able to get one from a dealer, then do so. After that tell Henry to cancel your order. I am sure he is fine with that if you tell him you got one from the dealer.

[Keyman1]

This friday will be 11 weeks for me. To be honest, I have been telling myself that it's not an issue and the product is worth the wait, and I know that it is. Lately though, I have had hard time not requesting a refund from Henry and then going to one of the other online vendors and ordering from them. I'm a consumer. I see many of you have ordered elsewhere and are getting your lights in just a few days. Waiting is not an issue for me when there is no other way. But in this case there is. I agree that Henry has a supply/fulfillment issue and I really hope he gets it worked out and is able to provide his product in a more timely manner. For his part, he has always responded promptly to my emails and has not made any effort to hide anything. I have worked for a small business in the past, and I understand these types of issues can arise.

++1 I too ordered mine 11 weeks ago this Friday.....and so on.

I checked in with Henry on 11/23/11 and he said:

I anticipate shipping your order around the second week in December.

So, I'm hoping sometime this week or next.

[the.Mtn.Man]

The thing I don't understand is with the demand of these lights, why henry won't up the supply. I understand he is having issues, but broaden your horizon. If he is a tiny 1 man show, hire some employees for goodness sake. I have been waiting on one of these lights for well over a year. I'm about to give up. This couple month crap is just that... Crap. There is opportunity for a lot of money to be made and I don't understand why people are sleeping on this.

I'm sure if it was as easy as that then he would have hired more employees already. But the thing with running a small business, it's never as easy as that.

[LGT]

The thing I don't understand is with the demand of these lights, why henry won't up the supply. I understand he is having issues, but broaden your horizon. If he is a tiny 1 man show, hire some employees for goodness sake. I have been waiting on one of these lights for well over a year. I'm about to give up. This couple month crap is just that... Crap. There is opportunity for a lot of money to be made and I don't understand why people are sleeping on this.

Just my two cents. But I find Henry to be one of the most responsive flashlight dealers/builders I have dealt with. I really can't recall the circumstance, but he called me to resolve my problem. I was tounge tied and at a loss of words. And very impressed that he would take the time to place such a call.

[duro]

I don't know why the chinese haven't copied his driver. They should. Then maybe I can get a battery compartment for the older thread style.

[choombak]

I have been waiting quiet a while now for the high-CRI to appear. Apparently, Henry indicated that they are clearing the backlog first before making the high-CRI available. Also, with this wait there is some good news - the high-CRI lights are making an appearance with higher lumens. I do not have any specs on it now, but am super excited.

[OCD]

It took 15 weeks to get my light. I ordered it on 1/28 and didn't receive it until 5/20. I didn't have a choice to order from a dealer as I got a silver bezel 200lm executive clicky that was only available as a custom light from Henry.

Each time I emailed Henry (which was about once a month) his answer was 2 weeks out each time. With that being said, knowing what went into the design, fabrication, and quality control to get the awesome product that is an HDS light along with the service and warranty that accompanies the light, it was worth every day I had to wait!

Now to find a silver Modoo clip somewhere!