Last edited by the.Mtn.Man; 08-01-2012 at 07:00 AM.
Does anybody have info by Craig or Henry about the 219 nichia equipped HDS?
LiteFlux LF2XT Q4 NAT [faulty...]; Preon Stealth Black
Well, thanks to the great review done by Snareman (and influenced a bit by the fact that I know him and have played with his light....) I have placed an order with Henry for a 200 lumen rotary. I called him up and he says they're currently running "6-8 weeks out." I'm also on a waiting list for one with an HDS vendor...so hoping that, one way or another, I'll have one in a month or so....
I'm probably in the minority, but I love the locator flash functionality. I have it enabled on my 170Cn, which is my "serious" work light. I do not want to drop that light in the dark and be unable to find it. I also need to be able to find it in the middle of the night.
In my legacy light, I know it'll get 2yrs+ of runtime with that locator flash on. I have no idea what kind of locator runtime the new ACME lights get. I don't want to pick it up when I actually need it and have the battery almost dead.
So in some specific cases, the long runtime is a concern. If Craig actually does get a batch of 219 Clicky's, I'll have to think twice about enabling locator flash until I know what it's going to do to the battery.
Well, first, I own >40 flashlights, so approaching this rationally only means you don't know what's going on here. To the extent that my approach to a flashlight is rational:
I only use the max on my pocket light for very short bursts, so less efficiency at that end means that five seconds at high is like 10 seconds on high with the newer models. I can live with that.
On the other hand, if I should find myself buried under a collapsed skyscraper or some such, I would want a lot of runtime, even on a partly-depleted battery.
Just my $.02.
The best weapon in the world is a flashlight. . . . Why? . . . So you can look deep into the other guy's eyes.
Here is my thread on my super low runtime tests for my New ACME Clicky 140 and 200. Others helped out with runtime tests for Legacy lights. If you haven't already, check it out, it's a decent read and should help answer some questions hopefully.
There are many aspects of these light that make them so appealing to us and while I agree low level runtimes probably wouldn't make the very top of the list in terms of desirability over reliability and beam it's still something that's important enough that it's mentioned frequently and even has it's own thread. Me personally, the most important aspect would be reliability followed by a good amount of runtime at a higher output level. All the other aspects of the light that make it great are also important, maybe not as much, but still important. Less efficient is less efficient and while you can debate the practical use in relation when you get a light like the HDS you want it to be the best all around and at the least maintain, if not improve on it's previous generation's performance.
BTW, this is no knock at the light. Mine has over two years of good constant use and overall I still am very pleased with it (other then some minor mis-click issues). I think once it has 10 years + and performs the same way I'll be ecstatic. Until then it's my favorite and most fun light but in terms of reliability my SF 6P is almost twenty years old and runs like it did from day one. I'm hoping to match this with the Ra!
2006 Ducati 749 Dark
...wait a minute, this isn't Ducati.ms 0.o
2006 Ducati 749 Dark
...wait a minute, this isn't Ducati.ms 0.o
-Nice, I hope you'll share your results. I like the sound of your design and will take your design hint when I get to making one.Personally thinking that thin walled stainless or a sturdy plastic (pvc?) would be good for strength and light weight, no real need for heat dissipation. Super compact and light, minimal would be great.Originally Posted by AnAppleSnail
Also for someone who doesn't mind spending a little chunk of money for a slightly bulkier spare battery carrier that weighs less than an oz, will give a sub-lumen light for nearly a month, and is a headlamp in it's own right there is always the ZL H30 series. If you wear a hat there is no need for the headband, clip does the trick, floody cri is so nice... Maybe the best spare battery carrier for an HDS of all. -two is one, one is none.
The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.
WOOOOOO I got my frirst hds , a 170 clicky WOOOOOOO. I picked it up on another forum, in like new condition for $130 . This thing just feels Quality, It has the new clip and acme threads. It has a very tight hot spot yet the spill is quite adequate for doing close up stuff. All my other lights are a warm tint, I can live with this its like neutral. The modes are confusing as hell, I'm gong to have to read the manual. The led is soo tiny and the reflector has the lightest orange peel I have ever seen like vvlop.
Question are head and bodies compatible? I have a hi-cri clicky on order, I am going to change it to a rotary hi cri, could I lego my self a the 170 to have the roatary and switch the hi cri to the clicky?
The RA Clicky series did everything the current Clicky series does, but still had better runtimes on the low levels. That's just the drawback of having the Rotary Option for the new Version built on a single platform for both clicky and rotary.
Yes, you are right, many will not use the low levels for excessive amounts of time. Some do though. When camping you can just let the older clickies sit on the low level to illuminat the tent, as there is virtually no impact on runtime.
If i specifically want a low output level over a long period of time i have lights to fulfil that role for example a Varapower2000 maglite which will provide at least a months worth of light at sublumen levels on lowest setting or a PALight survival which will provide a couple of years of sublumen light. There are lots of options available and yet not one can compare to the versatility, customisation, ruggedness and ease of use that comes with a HDS light.
Just an update for my previous question about the possibility for converting my clicky to a headlamp. Bought two of nitecores headbands for 1" flashlights. Verdict: The clicky is a bit heavy for the hedband, but a very economic and workable solution for making the hds a decent headlamp. Definately a good buy. Saved my the cost for a separate headlamp.
HDS Legacy 170, SF E2L-AA, Elzetta 2-cell.
Marduke - Solitaire...I've seen matches which are brighter AND have a longer runtime. 光陰矢の如し
My New HCRI Clicky (acme threads all the way around and XP-G LED) just arrived...from the marketplace, not HDS...
All I can say is this light is definitely worth the wait! I like the XP-G HCRI tint so much I still have a Rotary and Clicky version on order with Henry and will not cancel my order. The tint of the XP-G HCRI is beautiful and in my opinion it gives the Nichia 219 a run for its money. The Nichia is a nice white, but has a bit too much pink for my taste. The HCRI XP-G is a nice creamy while.
Good things come to those who wait.
Here is a picture of my HDS Clicky HCRI, Custom Rotary 219 Nichia and some Spyderco Sprint Run Paramilitary 2 beauties