HDS Systems EDC # 16

[someguy4747]

I did a runtime test and it ran for about ~30 minutes on an AW RCR123.

Wow, that is kinda disappointing. I wonder how much better it is with a primary? I'm guessing the light jumped down and back up due to heat?

[notsofast]

Thanks, I'll keep practicing!

I find the trick is to not count. Concentrate on clicking as fast as you can, when 20 clicks have happened the light will no longer turn on and off, it will stay on. ( as Charley said) That is when you hold the switch down until it turns off.

If the light doesn't quit turning on and off when you know more than 20 clicks have happened, start over your clicking wasn't (HDS) consistent enough.

You will get it eventually...good luck.

[AnAppleSnail]

Wow, that is kinda disappointing. I wonder how much better it is with a primary? I'm guessing the light jumped down and back up due to heat?

200-ish lumens on an RCR123 seems to run about 30 minutes plus a few in most lights. The light steps down a hard-to-perceive amount by default to get +50% runtime, doesn't it? I'll time mine a few cycles when I get it.

200 real OTF lumens, not 200 bulb lumens minus 30% for reflector, heat, and glass.

[grumbler]

I recently emailed Henry and he said that a pocket clip for the rotary is in development and will be released shortly. I'm planning to get one when that happens.

[fnj]

Wow, that is kinda disappointing. I wonder how much better it is with a primary? I'm guessing the light jumped down and back up due to heat?

The capacity of a RCR123 is 750 mAh. The capacity of a CR123A is 1500 mAh.

[Pete2s]

I recently emailed Henry and he said that a pocket clip for the rotary is in development and will be released shortly. I'm planning to get one when that happens.

I'm curious if it'll fit on current HDS Rotary lights.

[chris975d]

I'm curious if it'll fit on current HDS Rotary lights.

I was told in emails with him about a month or do ago that it "should" be backward compatible with existing Rotarys.

[davyro]

Found one! Woohoo!!

Really happy for you JohnB that was quick your very lucky to get exactly what you wanted straight away.Let me know if you have the same opinion as me on the beam.

[davyro]

I'll be watching the classifieds religiously... I have my Paypal stocked up for when one does show...

There is a 170e just came up for sale on a British forum today.PM me if you want the details,it's a v.good price & in great condition

[Derty]

Can I switch out the raised switch for a flush switch without modification on a 140T?

[CrazyIvan2011]

Just wondering if anyone has had any more recent emails from Henry...indicating if his new supplierers are up to scratch etc, delaying or not delaying manufacturing times?

Just wondering?

[davyro]

Can I switch out the raised switch for a flush switch without modification on a 140T?

you can buy the raised or flush switches off henry so you can change to which ever one you want.I've just bought a 200T with both switches
i should have it by the weekend i don't know if i'm going to keep it or not.As i'm already well covered with HDS lights.

[eh4]

I am going to start watching the mail again in the second week of March and check in with email around the middle of March if need be.

[CarpentryHero]

I was just playin with the programming of my HDS and I realized I don't know how to change preset A?
On for B
Double click for C
Triple click for D

Once on, press and hold for A to use it but I can't double click press hold while holdin it down

[mrlysle]

I was just playin with the programming of my HDS and I realized I don't know how to change preset A?
On for B
Double click for C
Triple click for D

Once on, press and hold for A to use it but I can't double click press hold while holdin it down

CarpentryHero. Remember, you can get to preset A different ways. If you have "momentary" enabled, then a "press/hold" from any level puts you in preset A. OR, from any level, if you click, press and hold for a sec, preset A stays on. So, do a click press and hold to get preset A on, then do your double click, press and hold, to change the level like you do for B,C, and D. Same procedure, you just have to get preset A "locked on" by doing the "click, press, and hold". Make sense? I.E. the way you're describing it, you have momentary enabled on your light. That's why with the light on, when you press and "hold" the button, it goes into preset A. But you can ALSO get preset A, buy doing a click/press/and hold for second when the light is turned on. And it doesn't matter what preset it's currently in. Even rotary function. When the light is on, and you do a click, press, and "hold" for just a second, preset A comes on and stays on. So buy "locking on" preset A, with a click/press/ and hold, you can then go through the normal steps for changing a level, and that's by doing a "double click/press/ and hold". Then just click through all the different output settings until you get what you want and then press and hold the button until the light does it's thing and remembers that setting. You've just changed "preset A" to whatever you want! Good luck.

[CarpentryHero]

CarpentryHero. Remember, you can get to preset A different ways. If you have "momentary" enabled, then a "press/hold" from any level puts you in preset A. OR, from any level, if you click, press and hold for a sec, preset A stays on. So, do a click press and hold to get preset A on, then do your double click, press and hold, to change the level like you do for B,C, and D. Same procedure, you just have to get preset A "locked on" by doing the "click, press, and hold". Make sense? I.E. the way you're describing it, you have momentary enabled on your light. That's why with the light on, when you press and "hold" the button, it goes into preset A. But you can ALSO get preset A, buy doing a click/press/and hold for second when the light is turned on. And it doesn't matter what preset it's currently in. Even rotary function. When the light is on, and you do a click, press, and "hold" for just a second, preset A comes on and stays on. So buy "locking on" preset A, with a click/press/ and hold, you can then go through the normal steps for changing a level, and that's by doing a "double click/press/ and hold". Then just click through all the different output settings until you get what you want and then press and hold the button until the light does it's thing and remembers that setting. You've just changed "preset A" to whatever you want! Good luck.

Your a life saver, that makes sense now

[Black Forest]

Don't laugh! Who is Henry?

[shane45_1911]

Don't laugh! Who is Henry?

Henry = Gentleman, scholar and owner of HDS Systems.

Welcome BTW.

[mrlysle]

Your a life saver, that makes sense now

Glad I could help buddy! That's why we're all here, right!

[pjandyho]

Don't laugh! Who is Henry?

He's the designer of HDS lights. Because he is an avid caver, he designed his lights to take the rigors and abuses associated with such sports. Many people are chasing the highest possible lumens for their lights, but HDS lights are designed to produce a balance between runtime and output. Not the brightest lights around in this size but definitely plenty bright enough to cover about 95% of what one would use a light for. Anything more than that you would have to go for a bigger and more powerful thrower. HDS lights are practical lights that are built to be tough.

[ElectronGuru]

Don't laugh! Who is Henry?

He's the H in HDS

[chris975d]

He's the H in HDS

Actually, isn't he the "HDS" in HDS? Those are his initials, if I'm not mistaken.

[AnAppleSnail]

Actually, isn't he the "HDS" in HDS? Those are his initials, if I'm not mistaken.

His emails give a last name beginning with 'S,' so this is possible.

[Johnbeck180]

Really happy for you JohnB that was quick your very lucky to get exactly what you wanted straight away.Let me know if you have the same opinion as me on the beam.

Got it!! it has a surprisingly smooth reflector witch results in a doughnut hole if you hold the light 3 inches or less from a wall, and I don't think I'm going to be walking that close to a wall all the time. The beam is nice and pleasing to the eye, there's just a little hint of grittiness in the transition from hot spot to spill (again probably due to the smooth reflector) but still a good transition. Slight bit of green tint, it's really only noticeable when comparing it to my 120 witch by the way is as smooth as butter. I did this on a white wall witch as you know, always makes the good and the bad stand out in a beam. I have not been able to get outside yet waiting for it to get dark enough to get an idea of how it throws. All-in-all this is a great light! The things I described above will never be seen in every day use, even if your looking for it, it won't be seen. well worth the money to know you have a great dependable light that will work when you need it to. My hat off to Henry. Hi CRI is next for me.

Also, the programming of the light is a little tricky at first. But once you get it, it makes these light even better....if that's even possible.

[kaichu dento]

Don't laugh! Who is Henry?

Henry D. Schneiker I do believe!

[Slumber Pass]

I guess I got lucky, my 170E has no doughtnut hole whatsoever.

Here it is at about 1 inch

[Johnbeck180]

I guess I got lucky, my 170E has no doughtnut hole whatsoever.

Here it is at about 1 inch

What led does yours have?

[Slumber Pass]

It's a GDP.

[Johnbeck180]

Hmmm, mine too, that's strange. What's the texture of your reflector. Light, heavy, medium, or almost no orange peel?

[Slumber Pass]

The orange peel is very light. The reflector looks like the dull side of aluminum foil, with tiny specks all over. Ive seen other reflectors that look more mirror-like. Who knows, maybe I'm losing lumens to get better sub three-inch beams. Haha.