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Thread: xm-l Buck 3a

  1. #1

    Default xm-l Buck 3a

    Hello
    for shure you was talking about a lot ,,,cant find anything
    after we may delet that Thread

    i have now the 3xcree xm-l drop in from DX ,,,,,nothing happy i am with that thing
    not enoth light ,,its yellowish, and the angle is to wide

    1. can i use another driver ,,Sharkbuck 3a

    2. maybay another reflektor ,,,but withone

    i was thinking useing a canister with 12v 7AH

    if you experts can give me any ideeas

    please

    best regards
    Stefan

  2. #2

    Default

    Can you provide a link to the DX part?


    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  3. #3

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    hi

    the item from dx is this one

    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/t6-3-le...p-9-22v-100483

    best regards

    Stefan

  4. #4

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    It's probably the led itself, I have had some come in with white tints and some with a slightly lower kelvin that were kinda yellow.

  5. #5

    Default

    I doubt the standard XML mr11 optic will fit given the size stated (ie~50mm). The ledil one is 35mm in diameter so I imagine the LEDs are too far apart.

    If you're not happy with the colour I'm not sure what can be done there. You could try a photographic get filter but that will also cut down light output.

    You might want to reconsider using the drop module, instead trying triple board from cutter.com.au. 3 * xmls @2a should I've you a pretty impressive light, tough with a warm bin and bad/wide reflector might be futile.


    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  6. #6
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    The DX driver delivers only about 25% of what they are capable of.

    You need to cut out the driver and replace with something that delivers 3A, and improve the thermal path.

    Have a look at Post#79 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...=1#post3768438

  7. #7

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Hello
    How i see this klem is right
    i have know a buck driver from shark 3a
    but i have still a question
    i can use 6 cells ,
    and the question is ,,,how many volt i shut have
    and how many volt i have after the shark driver
    and i like to use cells with a welder pin to weld them together in a round shape


    best regards
    Stefan

  8. #8

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Quote Originally Posted by PilleLED View Post
    Hello
    How i see this klem is right
    i have know a buck driver from shark 3a
    but i have still a question
    i can use 6 cells ,
    and the question is ,,,how many volt i shut have
    and how many volt i have after the shark driver
    and i like to use cells with a welder pin to weld them together in a round shape


    best regards
    Stefan
    Shark Buck 3A website says 24v max. http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...oducts_id=1244

    Just a warning, but I connected my pre-wired shark buck to a fully charged 5S lipo battery (21v) and it blew up. I'm not sure if I got a dud, or it had wiring issues, etc...
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  9. #9

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    thanks for the info
    but
    i was more talking about
    after the Shark Buck 3a

    6cells 4s 2p
    and i have 3xcml-t6 the dx drop in
    do the leds have to much V. ???


    another Question i have is ,,,,,,, how dangers is it to use LI-ION cells or LIFOPE
    in a canister for diving ,,,if the Canister is leaking and water comes in ,,,,Firework is garanty

    is this realy so dangeres
    i was already thinking about ,,,to make the Bat, pack and dip it in Liquit Rubber
    to seal


    many thanks
    Stefan

  10. #10

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    thanks for the info
    but
    i was more talking about
    after the Shark Buck 3a

    6cells 4s 2p
    and i have 3xcml-t6 the dx drop in
    do the leds have to much V. ???


    another Question i have is ,,,,,,, how dangers is it to use LI-ION cells or LIFOPE
    in a canister for diving ,,,if the Canister is leaking and water comes in ,,,,Firework is garanty

    is this realy so dangeres
    i was already thinking about ,,,to make the Bat, pack and dip it in Liquit Rubber
    to seal


    many thanks
    Stefan

  11. #11
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Quote Originally Posted by PilleLED View Post

    another Question i have is ,,,,,,, how dangers is it to use LI-ION cells or LIFOPE
    in a canister for diving ,,,if the Canister is leaking and water comes in ,,,,Firework is garanty

    is this realy so dangeres
    i was already thinking about ,,,to make the Bat, pack and dip it in Liquit Rubber
    to seal
    I have flooded several Li-ion torches and the only reaction that occurs is the light goes out. No explosions, no violent reactions. When you open the canister after the dive the water that comes out is a brown colour but that is all. No doubt there is some heat generated by the short-circuit inside the canister but nothing spectacular or visible.

    Do not be overly worried by stories of exploding batteries. I have never seen it, nor have I heard it from other posters. I have no doubt that if it were true it would be a hot topic of conversation.

    I would appear there is more danger short-circuiting a Li-ion above water.

  12. #12

    Default

    I had a slow leak in a canister, which presumably caused a short and lithium fire in the delrin canister (I'm speculating here). This built up internal pressure and even at 80m underwater it blew the threaded end cap off the sartek canister. It gave me a fright and I'm told caused one impressive pressure wave (I didn't see it, but it felt like a bomb went off on my hip - didn't hurt just scary). I switched to backup light and kept diving the wreck.

    After that incident I still use lithium batteries as if that is the worst that can happen underwater no big deal. I'm more concerned about a charging related fire in my house.

    I repaired said canister, cleaned the black soot out and put new batteries in it. Still use it today, though the thread has never been the same since the cap blew off.
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  13. #13

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    thanks for the story, betti154. first time I hear this could actually happen, but good to know it's not that bad.

    a dutch guy (subjohan, unfortunately his website is offline now) once did a test by throwing some li-ions in a bucket of salt water, but that wasn't very impressive, just some brown stuff ending up in the water. off course, there was no pressure built-up here so that was probably the difference.

    PilleLED, not sure if you're getting this:
    6cells 4s 2p

    this doesn't make sense. 4s 2p means that you put 4 cells in series, do this twice and put these 2 strings of 4 cells in parallel with eachother. that makes 8 cells.

  14. #14

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    hi

    yes 6cells and 4s2p is not working ,,sorry
    i have space for 6 cells but the question is 3s2p ,,is this enoth ???
    or i use 4 cells only , that shut be enogh
    but if i run the driver on 3a i have only about 1 hour the light


    and other question i have is about the 3a shark buck driver
    how to ajust the Pot on the driver clockwise is more A , or anticlockwise is more A

    and to solder the driver is nothing easy ,,,i was thinking ,,if that works
    to clue the cable on the driver with the Thermical heatsink

    and what i will try is using a Cree Regina reflektor with 10° open the bottom a bit
    that the XML can enter
    shut by better focust


    best regards
    Stefan

  15. #15

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Hello
    6cells yes you rigth ,,4s2p NO.. OK.. sorry

    i can use 6 cells, is 4 enoth , and running the shark with 3a
    gives only 1H light more or less.

    Shark driver 3A ,,the POD ,,what side is 3a clockwise or antoclockwise

    and soldering is not easy to ,, is it possible to clue the cable to the driver
    with the Thermical clue


    best regards
    Stefan

  16. #16
    Enlightened
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    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Hi

    I got a slow flood in a canister light last year. Pack was made by me with protected cells. I got half an inch of salt water in. dived 1h.
    When i turn off the light, it did not turn on again. Protection blew off, small protection board were eaten. I removed them and checked capacity, Ok, remade pack without protection exept an inline fuse.

    By the way, imploding a DX 52mm thin glass is cool made a nice shoot !
    (it was the only cool thing on this boring dive)

  17. #17

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Hello

    i have now the shark driver 3a , its already in the DX drop in 3xXml
    and i have to say its Bull.....
    its brighter YES
    but its still this yellowish color
    and with 3a running , i expectet more light
    and the angle is to wide

    MY IDEA
    is to use other XML-t6 leds
    and another optik
    can you help me out with the optk ,,,,,regina moded is one point

    best regards
    Stefan

  18. #18

    Default

    I like the following, but others feel the beam is too wide for mucky water (about 15 degrees after refraction through flat port). Each to their own I guess, but your other options are aspherics or triple xpg with cute3 optic (very nice also but only 1000lm).

    Leds http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1100
    Optic http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1064

    You already have the driver. You need to build a heatsink to channel heat to housing, optic is 18mm deep so you'll also need reasonable pace in the head.

    At 3amp, these output a shed load of light. Destroys a 35w hid in my experience and colour temp of the ml U2 is very white at ~5700k.





    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  19. #19
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Quote Originally Posted by betti154 View Post
    At 3amp, these output a shed load of light. Destroys a 35w hid in my experience and colour temp of the ml U2 is very white at ~5700k.
    I agree there's a lot of light coming from multiple XM-Ls at 3A but I'm not convinced they 'destroy' a 35W HID. I did a night dive last week using both a 4*XM-L and a 75W HID. It was pretty murky waters. The XM-L was on the shoulder providing area light and the HID was in the hand looking for the prawns. So, they were both on at the same time. The XM-L with DX reflector is a wider beam than the HID which is colimated/focussed. It penetrated a lot less than I thought in the conditions.

    My take is that they compliment each other in the roles they performed but not outdoing each other.I'll take some beamshots above water to show the different spread. I also have a 35W colimated so I'll throw that into the photos.

    Be interesting to see how those Ledil optics work with the XM-L's. Thats a nice combination at a reasonable price.

  20. #20

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Hello
    me again

    i was looking for some leds
    and what you think
    can i use This inside the dx drop in
    http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power...1_120_117.html

    and on top comes 3x regina moded
    and runs on shark driver 3a

    shot work
    what i dont know is soldering the cable on the platin HOW better wher is plus and minus


    bst regards

  21. #21

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Quote Originally Posted by Klem View Post
    I agree there's a lot of light coming from multiple XM-Ls at 3A but I'm not convinced they 'destroy' a 35W HID. I did a night dive last week using both a 4*XM-L and a 75W HID. It was pretty murky waters. The XM-L was on the shoulder providing area light and the HID was in the hand looking for the prawns. So, they were both on at the same time. The XM-L with DX reflector is a wider beam than the HID which is colimated/focussed. It penetrated a lot less than I thought in the conditions.

    My take is that they compliment each other in the roles they performed but not outdoing each other.I'll take some beamshots above water to show the different spread. I also have a 35W colimated so I'll throw that into the photos.

    Be interesting to see how those Ledil optics work with the XM-L's. Thats a nice combination at a reasonable price.
    I should be more specific, in that of the two 35w HIDs I compared it to in Florida cave country the 2.4-3A XML with Cute3 optic made the tighther 35w HIDs appear inferior. e.g. the 35w HID spot was not longer visible when beams were overlapped. I've seen some 35w HIDs that are better than others, so to be fair apples aren't apples. The ones I was comparing against were older models too, not the latest from Ligth Monkey for example.

    See video below for an example of XM-L Cute3 optic versus the tighter XP-G Cute3.

    At time 2:05, you can see firstly the XPG Cute3 @ 1200ma and then behind that the XML Cute3 @ ~2400ma.
    At time 2:22, the diver on the left has a XML Cute3 @ ~2400ma

    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  22. #22

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Hello betti 154

    can you help me ,,,i am to order the Cutter staff
    led and optic

    but i am not shure about Bining and flux
    the one i like to have about Color is just white

    i can see the bin and flux label ,,,,,,i am lost , with this tables

    the one i like is white lite

    if you can help me ,,,great

    regards

    Stefan

  23. #23

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Quote Originally Posted by PilleLED View Post
    Hello betti 154

    can you help me ,,,i am to order the Cutter staff
    led and optic

    but i am not shure about Bining and flux
    the one i like to have about Color is just white

    i can see the bin and flux label ,,,,,,i am lost , with this tables

    the one i like is white lite

    if you can help me ,,,great

    regards

    Stefan
    For a primary light, I usually got the U2 bin for a very cool colour with max lumens. http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1100

    Perhaps someone else can confirm, but I'm not sure the "Bin Flux Colour Choice" on the Cutter page makes much difference if you're just building one light and don't care about consistency across batches.
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  24. #24

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Hello

    i just have othertings in my mind
    i will use the 7x xml-u2 , and run it on the shark driver 3a
    http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power...2_120_117.html

    and this optik
    http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power...tml?cross=1730

    becouse i will anyway make a carrier for the led to the housing
    and i will make a canister new

    that shot work

    the bat . i was thinking using a li-ion ,,,may bay 2 parralel to have more AH
    i just have to find a li-ion with a lot AH,,,,,someone know something about

    best regards

    PS:::: next week i will finish my new EKPP light head

    Stefan

  25. #25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PilleLED View Post
    Hello

    i just have othertings in my mind
    i will use the 7x xml-u2 , and run it on the shark driver 3a
    http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power...2_120_117.html

    and this optik
    http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power...tml?cross=1730

    becouse i will anyway make a carrier for the led to the housing
    and i will make a canister new

    that shot work

    the bat . i was thinking using a li-ion ,,,may bay 2 parralel to have more AH
    i just have to find a li-ion with a lot AH,,,,,someone know something about

    best regards

    PS:::: next week i will finish my new EKPP light head

    Stefan
    This is the first multi XML board+optic I've seen with more than 3 LED; I do like the person who thinks up something as evil as 7 xmls.

    Will a shark buck do the job? Max voltage on them is 24-25v and 7 series xmls at 3a just scrape it in, and your battery would need to be over this when fully charged. I assume the LEDs are in series. They might be individually addressable too???

    Battery wise, I consider two separate 4s packs and connect them in series when installed in housing. ~30v

    Parallel 3 rcd-24 1000ma drivers. These handle the high voltage and 3 will give you 3000ma, or whatever other combination you can one up with.








    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  26. #26
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Interesting!...7*XML on a 35mm diameter base.

    I agree with Damien, with the idea that it may be more suitable to divide up the emitter into two halves (3 and 4), with two separate drivers and battery packs. That way you can stick with the relatively cheaper battery chargers with balance charging options up to 6S. 6S won't give you the voltage necessary for running all 7 so perhaps two separate systems.

    12 degrees is still reasonably wide but such is the nature of LED optics, and this case you will mitigate this by having a very high lumen output.

    I'll be interested to hear how you go with this project.

  27. #27

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Quote Originally Posted by Klem View Post
    I agree with Damien, with the idea that it may be more suitable to divide up the emitter into two halves (3 and 4), with two separate drivers and battery packs.
    Are those boards individually addressable?

    I'd probably keep the LEDs in series to keep things simple, and just use two separate 4S batteries to power it. Charge separately, but put them in series to give the voltage necessary.

    If this is anything like the 7-up XPG solution from Cutter, it'll be reasonably wide in reality. Even the 6 Degree optic was something like 20-30 degrees in my experience. Neverless I think the 7up XML will produce a very nice wreck light for moderate to clear water.
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

  28. #28

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Hello
    sooooooo if i start , to think about ,,,better i stick with a 3x XML-u2 with 3a

    the bat, canister will by very big
    or runs with only 1A,,,, NO


    i was thinking to use the 7 xml-u2 , becouse of power 7200 lumen ,,,,,wow

    but the size of the rest ,,,better not

    i stick with the small 3x xml-u2 3000 lumen , nice and small

    better is and light enoght

    i will post than later pics


    Stefan

  29. #29
    Flashaholic* Klem's Avatar
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    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    What would be the current and voltage outcome of splitting the 7*XM-L array into two series strings of 3 and 4?

    I'm thinking the H6Flex buck driver has a max output of 20V and supplies current in increments up to 6.6A. Max input voltage is 22V, so a 5S Li-ion.

    If you wanted to drive the XM-Ls at max current 3A is this possible with this driver?

  30. #30

    Default Re: xm-l Buck 3a

    Quote Originally Posted by Klem View Post
    What would be the current and voltage outcome of splitting the 7*XM-L array into two series strings of 3 and 4?

    I'm thinking the H6Flex buck driver has a max output of 20V and supplies current in increments up to 6.6A. Max input voltage is 22V, so a 5S Li-ion.

    If you wanted to drive the XM-Ls at max current 3A is this possible with this driver?
    I've used even parallel strings of LEDs with the h6Flex, though not sure about uneven one. My guess is the voltage will be out of whack and things might start blowing up. George at taskled.com is pretty helpful - he might chime in here or ask the question at taskled.com/forum
    Regards,
    Damien Siviero
    http://damiensiviero.com

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