The Official EagleTac G25C2 thread.

[snakeplissken83]

I was just wondering if anyone knows how to change the rubber button cover at the end of the flashlight...i wanted to put the glow-in-the-dark one on it. it looks as though you need a special tool with 2 pins to turn the whole battery terminal until it comes out of the aluminium body...is that how you do it?

also, being a bit of a flashlight noob, whats the deal with m.a.h. and voltage rating on batteries? i'm running my g25c2 on 2 3.7 volt rcr123's rated at 750 m.a.h (and its brighter than the head lights on my car!) but would it be better on one of those 18650 one's if they're rated at like 3100m.a.h? cos those are well expensive in the u.k.

Thanks fellow lumiteers!

M

[nelamvr6]

I was just wondering if anyone knows how to change the rubber button cover at the end of the flashlight...i wanted to put the glow-in-the-dark one on it. it looks as though you need a special tool with 2 pins to turn the whole battery terminal until it comes out of the aluminium body...is that how you do it?

also, being a bit of a flashlight noob, whats the deal with m.a.h. and voltage rating on batteries? i'm running my g25c2 on 2 3.7 volt rcr123's rated at 750 m.a.h (and its brighter than the head lights on my car!) but would it be better on one of those 18650 one's if they're rated at like 3100m.a.h? cos those are well expensive in the u.k.

Thanks fellow lumiteers!

M

You just need a set of circclip pliers. The end cap comes apart really easily, then you replace the boot with the GITD one, and it goes back together the same way it came apart. Total opperation takes about 5 minutes.

This is the set of pliers I got:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Retaining...7&sr=8-2-spell

[phantom23]

also, being a bit of a flashlight noob, whats the deal with m.a.h. and voltage rating on batteries? i'm running my g25c2 on 2 3.7 volt rcr123's rated at 750 m.a.h (and its brighter than the head lights on my car!) but would it be better on one of those 18650 one's if they're rated at like 3100m.a.h? cos those are well expensive in the u.k.

Real capacity of RCR123 is about 550-600mAh (especially at high current). So your two cells have total of 4,44Wh. Panasonic 3100mAh cells have about 2900mAh @2A. That means total power of 10,73Wh. 18650 cell will give you over 2x longer runtime.

[purelite]

Well, I dont know if I should start a new thread or if it belongs here in the "OFFICIAL" G25C2 thread so I will go with here .

Finally got my ET G25C2 that I won in the PTS Xmas giveway.

I havnt had much time to play with it yet but I will give my initial impressions though I suck at this sort of thing. I will try to be objective here though when you win something its hard not to be a little bias

The light is very well made with a high level given to detail in fit and finish. Anno is solid all over. No nicks or dings or light spots on the knurling. Machining is perfect also. No discernable machining marks or swirls. There are no smudges or fingerprints or dust on the reflector at all. Very nice!!!! Nothing worse than getting a new light and having a big thumb print on yur reflector. The LED is perfectly centered.
Not only did PTS send the light but they also included the entire accessory kit also!!!!! WOW!! I have never had colored lenses and such for a light so this was really cool!! More stuff to pay with !!
I will say I dont really like how the light looks with the 2x18650 extender on it. But that is just my personal taste. It just looks a bit unusual. I think I would have liked it better with more standard knurling. It works just fine and i would definitley want it on there if I was using the light for extended periods . But my personal preference right now is with it setup as 1x18650. It just seems so balanced in the hand as a 1x18650 . Just the right length and weight.
I immediatley put the tailstanding shroud on . It works great. I have also decided to leave the clip on and the cigar ring.
I am really enjoying playing with the lens kit and it also is very well made. I wasnt expecting a finely machined screw on kit like this but rather some plastic slide on thing. This kit is really nicely done .
Since I am not the quickest in the learning curve department I had to sit with the directions and read them over a cpl or three times. But it finally clicked after about 5 minutes and it is actually a very simple UI with 2 basic setups available. I have left it set as it was out of the box for now. Its quite interesting to me the way they have implemented the UI on this light and I have included some pics of the inside of the head. I am no techy but it is obvious even to me that the large pins in the head make contact while twisting the head and give you the high/low/strobe options. It looks like a very solid rugged system and once again the machining inside the head is clean and defect free. There are square threads at the head which is a nice tough also as this is where alot of twisting wil be happening. Standard threads at the tail though. would have been nice to have square threads back there also but no big deal.
The tailcap clicky is solid feeling but not overly stiff. It doesnt feel cheap or flimsy.
Output is absolutley amazing!! On high this is the britest light I have ever owned period. The hotspot is tight and spill is generous. It seems to be a trait of the XML led though that the spill has patterns in it but that is just on a wall. In real use it is never noticeable or does it detract from the usefullness of the spill. Eagletac did a very good job getting the most throw out of the XML with this light. The deep reflector does a decent job in keeping the hotspot strong and bright at a distance.
My 2900mah AW flat tops work fine in 1x18650 and 2x18650.
as I continue to play with this little beast I will add more of my opinions here. Just wanted to get something down ASAP.

So far I havnt found a single flaw with this light. I really think Eagletac did their homework on this one and really hit it out of the park in this class of light.
Oh, last pic is of kitty trying to activate the G25. She doesnt usually go for the tactical look but even she is liking this light

[drgn]

I just received the G25C2 today. I thought I would post a couple of beamshots between the EagleTac T20C2 Mark II and the new G25C2. I am blown away by the difference in these two lights. Not only is the G25C2 so much brighter but the UI on it is wonderful. It's how the T20C2 should have been. What really surprised me is that it outshined my Fenix TK-30, albeit not by much.

Watch the beamshot comparision video here on youtube.

[RCLumens]

Awesome comparison drgn! Very useful indeed!

[recDNA]

Anyone here who has not already posted beamshots got a g25c2 and a surefire fury? There are beamshots on the forum that clearly show the fury with its smaller head and lower amp draw producing more lux and it looks to me in the beamshots at least as much lumens as the g25c2. This doesn't seem logical. I'd love to see more sets of beamshots or lux measurements that varify or refute this. The beamshots are gorgeous I just wonder if it's possible that there was something wrong with their G25C2? If not I guess the OP reflector must be to blaim.

[snakeplissken83]

You just need a set of circclip pliers. The end cap comes apart really easily, then you replace the boot with the GITD one, and it goes back together the same way it came apart. Total opperation takes about 5 minutes.

This is the set of pliers I got:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Retaining...7&sr=8-2-spell

Cool! Thanks a lot mate, I'll order those now!

[snakeplissken83]

Real capacity of RCR123 is about 550-600mAh (especially at high current). So your two cells have total of 4,44Wh. Panasonic 3100mAh cells have about 2900mAh @2A. That means total power of 10,73Wh. 18650 cell will give you over 2x longer runtime.

Cheers pal, I've ordered an ultrafire cell, couldn't find the Panasonic for sale in the UK but its protected and has the same 3100mah rating. I might make a YouTube video comparing them. Thanks mate.

[Stephen Wallace]

If you search for big_f_d_d on ebay, he sells unprotected Panasonic NCR18650A cells.

I you are looking for protected versions, you can get AWs 3100mAh cells from flashaholics.co.uk or from ledfiretorches.co.uk

If you have ordered the Ultrafire 3000mAh cells, they aren't good quality, and unfortunately you won't get anything like the capacity they claim. I tried a couple, and I wouldn't buy any more.

[jcalvert]

Originally Posted by nelamvr6
You just need a set of circclip pliers. The end cap comes apart really easily, then you replace the boot with the GITD one, and it goes back together the same way it came apart. Total opperation takes about 5 minutes.

This is the set of pliers I got:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Retaining...7&sr=8-2-spell



Cool! Thanks a lot mate, I'll order those now!

@ snakesplissken83

I don't have the G25C2 yet, but based on the photo of the tailcap in the G25C2's sales literature, although it doesn't hurt to have a set of circclip pliers around the workshop, for the sake of expediency, if the retaining ring twists off like the T20C2 MKII's, and if you happen to have some hobbyists/mini, narrow-tip, needle-nose pliers or even pointed tweezers, in fact anything that you can get into those two small holes that offer enough leverage to apply some torque, you could twist off the retaining ring (presumably counterclockwise), pull out the switch, and finally access the rubber switch boot. Then hopefully you wouldn't have to wait.

Edit: Received mine today and confirmed that the switch boot swap is just like the T20/P20. Both mini needle-nose pliers & pointed tweezers work, it took under a minute for the swap.


@ drgn
Welcome to CPF For your very first post on CPF, you provide us with a video that I found to be a succinct, real-world comparison of both lights, with simple graphics. The information it presents is a wonderful compliment to all the other excellent reviews and beamshot comparison photos previously presented. I hope we'll be seeing more of this type of short, simple, to-the-point presentation in the future. Well done and thank you!

John

[res1cue]

Yep, and one thing I noticed, the T20C2 Mk II required you to turn retaining ring CLOCKWISE (counterintuitive I know) and the G25C2 comes off if you turn it counterclockwise (normal).

I used a thin pair of scissors and it came off easy.

Very bright light.. comparable to Maelstorm X7, but better UI IMO

[snakeplissken83]

If you search for big_f_d_d on ebay, he sells unprotected Panasonic NCR18650A cells.

I you are looking for protected versions, you can get AWs 3100mAh cells from flashaholics.co.uk or from ledfiretorches.co.uk

If you have ordered the Ultrafire 3000mAh cells, they aren't good quality, and unfortunately you won't get anything like the capacity they claim. I tried a couple, and I wouldn't buy any more.

You guys are such a drain on my wallet!! Please don't tell me to buy anything else! Thing is though this torch is just epic. I can finally run in the woods at night!

[rico90]

Hello!

First post here

A few weeks ago i went from a 5$ flashlight to Led Lenser L7. I was amazed and still am. Very powerful for such a small size. Then i found this forum and well.... now i have placed an order on a EagleTac G25C2, 2 x AW18650C-AW 18650 3.7 Volt 3100 MAH batteries and a WF139-Ultrafire 18650 Charger.

I haven't really decided what to do with it but i just felt i needed it . My question is if the batteries and the charger are ok and will be compatible with the flashlight? I think i have made the right decision when choosing charger and batteries but i want to be certain. Anything else i should think about when i receive my order? I have never used 18650 batteries before.

Thanks
Rickard

[troelskc]

You should get the best charger for the best batts - the Pila IBC. It's about $50 and is worth every penny! You shouldn't leave your 18650's in the Ultrafire charger, it will not stop charging even though it lights green.

Flashaholics correct me if I'm wrong.

[pjandyho]

You should get the best charger for the best batts - the Pila IBC. It's about $50 and is worth every penny! You shouldn't leave your 18650's in the Ultrafire charger, it will not stop charging even though it lights green.

Flashaholics correct me if I'm wrong.

You are not wrong in requesting the buyer to get the best charger, but as for Ultrafire WF-129 charger I have been using it for about four years and frequently leave the batteries to charge overnight while I go to sleep and it has never exceeded 4.2 volts. All the batteries that I am charging in the Ultrafire charger was bought at the same time that I bought the charger from AW himself. Batteries are still functioning perfectly.

[troelskc]

Thanks for the reply!

I was just taking it for granted, that the Cytac charger was in the same category as the Ultrafire and other cheap brands Li-ion chargers. The Cytac does as far as I know not use the CC/CV charging method, and therefore it's not recommended to let the battery sit in it over night. When I read the Cytac review I ordered the Pila the day. I wouldn't risk anything when dealing with Li-ions.

[pjandyho]

I am not sure if WF-139 uses CC/CV. When I bought it I bought with the assumption that if AW sells it, it should be tested by him. Luckily everything works perfectly. I have read some claiming that the Ultrafire would not stop charging when the batteries are fully charged, but my personal experience says otherwise. Maybe Ultrafire chargers are not consistent from one to another I am not sure, but given me another chance to buy another charger I would most likely settle for another 4Sevens (have one already) or I would go for a Pila IBC.

[Stephen Wallace]

There seem to be a few different results you might get from the WF139 - depends where it has been made, or possibly when, or what components were used. Some seem to actually terminate charging, some continue to charge after the green light, but at such an infinitesimally low rate, it doesn't really matter - the charger is more or less just compensating for the cells self discharge. Others continue to trickle charge at an appreciable rate, which is definitely bad news when using li-ion cells. You should have total charge termination, a barely readable trickle isn't good - if only in so much as that isn't how an li-ion charger should function - and trickle charging at an appreciable current is positively bad.

That's the problem with these chargers - you can't be 100% certain as to exactly what you are going to get. As such, I wouldn't really recommend it. You could get a good one, but you could get a bad one. Better to buy a charger with a good reputation, and which is consistent from unit to unit.

As already mentioned, the Pila charger is considered the de facto standard for quality, consumer grade, cradle style li-ion chargers, and has been for a good while now. It follows the recommended charge profile for li-ion batteries and terminates the charge when finished. Downsides are that it won't charge batteries larger than 18mm in diameter, requires spacers to charger cells shorter than 65mm in length, and does not have a low voltage setting for LiFe cells.

Two recently released chargers that have built up a good reputation in a short time are the 4Sevens single bay charger, and the Xtar WP2 II. If you were going to get one of these though, make sure that you get the V3 version of the 4Sevens charger, as the original version was recalled, and there have been some reported issues with V2 as well. There is also an updated version WP2 II (the WP2 II ii!? - just made that up, that isn't the actual name), that has improved on the charging profile, but it isn't critical which version of the WP2 II you get. Both the 4Sevens and the Xtar follow the correct CC/CV charging profile, but the charge may terminate at a higher current than is strictly necessary, so you may not get a 100% full battery.

The 4Sevens charger has a sliding terminal with a wide range of movement, and can charge all batteries from a 16340 to a 26650, without any spacers being required. As per the reference to the 26650, it will charge batteries up to 26mm wide. It has a switch to allow batteries with different chemistries to be charged - LiFe, LiCo and LiMn are all catered for. You have a second switch that allows you to choose between 500mAh and 1000mAh charge rates - the slower charge rate allows for the safe (or safer at any rate) charging of low capacity cells. The obvious downside to the 4Sevens charger is that it only has a single bay, so only one battery can be charged at a time.

The Xtar WP2 II also has sliding terminals, but with a narrower range of movement - spacers will still be required for charging 16340 cells. It is intended for charging one or two cells of up to 18mm in diameter. You have a switch for 500 or 1000mAh charge rate, but it is only for use with LiCo or LiMn cells - no LiFe. One additional feature it does have though is a USB output allowing you to place a charged batter in the charger, and then use that battery to charge a phone or any other item with a USB charging socket.

If you are ever going to need to charge LiFe cells, or larger diameter cells, then the obvious choice would be the 4Sevens charger. If you are going to be sticking to 18mm diameter cells, LiCo or LiMn, then a two bay charger would be more convenient, in which case either the Pila or Xtar would be fine. You might prefer the Xtar if the USB charging function appeals to you.

[Stephen Wallace]

You guys are such a drain on my wallet!! Please don't tell me to buy anything else! Thing is though this torch is just epic. I can finally run in the woods at night!

Sorry about that - seems to be the nature of this hobby!

[rico90]

Thanks for fast answers. What about the batteries? They should be ok? I think i take my chances start with this charger.

Regards
Rickard

[Stephen Wallace]

The Eagletac lights use a physical reverse polarity solution - the positive contact at the head end of the light has a plastic surround that is slightly higher than the contact. This prevents the flat negative base of a battery from coming in to contact with the positive connection. What this does mean is that batteries with a flat positive end - or a very wide button - won't work in the light. There was some concern over the use of the higher capacity AW cells - 2600, 2900 and 3100mAh - as they have a fairly low, and quite wide, button.

You'll be pleased to know though that there are people in this thread that have tried the AW 3100mAh cell, and confirmed that it does work.

[pjandyho]

You'll be pleased to know though that there are people in this thread that have tried the AW 3100mAh cell, and confirmed that it does work.

Ya. It's weird that it actually works when Eagletac says no on their website. So far I have yet to hear anyone complaining that theirs won't work. Luckily so. I too have luck with 4Sevens Maelstrom G5 as well as X7, but some who owns it says that they don't get the 3rd and 4th level output.

[Stephen Wallace]

Just to confirm, I have now tried two AW 3100mAh cells that I have recently received myself, and looking at how flat the positive contact is, I really wouldn't expect it to work with the Eagletac's reverse polarity protection. In fact, I'd be amazed if it did work..... but it does.

[phantom23]

Very bright light.. comparable to Maelstorm X7, but better UI IMO

Comparable? 640 vs. 480lm and 17klux/1m vs. 12 klux/1m, Eagle-Tac should be "one step" brighter. Weird...

[pjandyho]

Comparable? 640 vs. 480lm and 17klux/1m vs. 12 klux/1m, Eagle-Tac should be "one step" brighter. Weird...

They both have the same brightness visually. I did ceiling bounce using the neutral white X7 and couldn't tell a difference.

[res1cue]

Comparable? 640 vs. 480lm and 17klux/1m vs. 12 klux/1m, Eagle-Tac should be "one step" brighter. Weird...

I think at lumens that high, your eyes would have a hard time seeing a ~20% increase. I compared the two myself and couldn't really see a difference other than tint. Later looking in more detail and at longer ranges, it became obvious that the Eagletac is brighter and throws further.

[phantom23]

If you compared them side by side, you should have seen the difference, especially in throw. Maybe you compared them with G25C2 after stepdown? (20% off 640lm gives about 510lm)

[pjandyho]

I don't run my lights on max output for more than a few seconds and I am hard pressed to tell the difference in output between both the G25C2 and neutral X7.

[qt11]

hey guys,

an G25C2 arrived from GG a few days ago and it looks like a pretty good light.

One issue that i am having is getting it into the secondary "regular" mode to give access to the 100%, 35%, 6% and 0.3% brightness.

I'm clicking on and off 20 times and to activate and the tailcap strobe setting coming on, however turning the light on and trying to get the regular mode isn't happening, turning the head just gets me the same options in the tactical mode, 100%, 10%, strobe and strobe....

What am I doing wrong ?

Cheers
Alan