Rayovac Extreme 300 Lantern - replacing the LED (Mod)

[CyberCT]

Well I did some more testing tonight of my 1st modded lantern. I kept the covering off this time, so the LED and heatsink were exposed to the air directly. I left the lantern on high mode for 15 minutes (with 6 newly charged eneloops in 3 2xAA adapters). The heatsink was still hot to the touch exposed to air directly. I don't think the high mode is a good idea for anything longer than 5 minutes at a time.

I do also have a TK41 with an Olight diffuser I bought, and I did some comparisons between the two. Even with the diffuser, the beam of the TK41 was still a little throwy compared to the pure flood of the Rayovac lantern. So I took a piece of wax paper and put it over the Olight diffuser, which helped to make the TK41's beam more floody / less throwy. Honestly there really isn't much of a difference between the TK41 on the high mode, and the lantern on the high mode. The lantern might have been a tad brighter, IDK. I bumped up the TK41 to turbo, and then noticed a difference of course. The TK41 is supposed to put out 335 ANSI luments on high mode. I really don't think the 300 lumens claimed by Rayovac from the factory is ANSI, it's probably at the emitters.

I brought the lantern upstairs (cause I did all my previous testing in a large basement) and was very surprised at how bright even low mode was. it lit up the entire kitchen and living room. I brought it up to my bedroom upstairs. I put it on high mode and I couldn't tell much of a difference between the output of my 40 watt equivilant CFL and the lantern on high. On low mode the room was still plenty bright to see anything or even read. So I have a lantern with a very good "low" mode for camping and such. Wouldn't use high for more than 10 minutes cause it gets too hot. I'll have to see if I can look into installing a driver and forward clicky. Maybe I can get a lower low mode at least. On the stock "low" mode, the heatsink is just warm to the touch BTW, even when covered like normal.

[Sno4Life]

Has anyone tried to put an XM-L in one of these yet? It shouldn't run as hot as the XP-G on hi...

[BigRiz]

Has anyone tried to put an XM-L in one of these yet? It shouldn't run as hot as the XP-G on hi...

Yes, there was a discussion on the other thread.. and it doesn't run hot at all if driven correctly. You may see my comparison shots here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ORE-INFO/page8

[BigRiz]

By the way.. just replacing the LED is far from ideal. For best results, use a flashlight LED driver (such as the 1.4A shiningbeam driver), and a clicky switch (that's a bit annoying to install, but doable)
Also, I used a reflector in order to collect most of the light that would go upwards and pointed it to the upper part of the lantern, which reflects it back down.

[Nick4]

Hey I wanted to say thanks to the posters in this thread. I have been lurking the forums for a really long time. I've been looking for a decent lantern and of course went straight to CPF. Found this thread, and the older one above it and now I think I am not only picking up a lantern, but starting my first mod project as well. Oh, and I made an account to get involved. So anyway, thanks guys.

Now for a question, it seems most everyone performing the mod is using AA batteries, is this a matter of preference/convenience or necessity? Can I still run the D batteries after the mod?

[BigRiz]

Nick4, welcome to CPF and congrats on your first mod!

People are using AA's with adapters simply for convencience/lower price. AA's have the same voltage as D cells, so you can still use D cells if you prefer.

[Nick4]

Nick4, welcome to CPF and congrats on your first mod!

People are using AA's with adapters simply for convencience/lower price. AA's have the same voltage as D cells, so you can still use D cells if you prefer.

Hey thanks for the welcome. I am planing on the same components you used according to the other thread. Is there any sites that sell all the pieces together? Also, I googled cncqualitygoods before I ordered anything and read a few things about not receiving product, or it taking an extremely long time. Anything to worry about?

Also, where did you get the boom reflector? I cant find it.

Thanks, sorry for all the newbie questions that are probably better asked in the dedicated forum.

[BigRiz]

Hi Nick4,

I don't think there is any site selling all the parts together, so you need to source your parts from around the world..

cnqualitygoods.. well, yes - the led took ages to arrive (over a month), but it did arrive in good condition.. so there's not much to worry about unless you're in a hurry

the reflector - digi-key sell it, but it can get expensive to buy just one. What I did was.. I discovered that Farnell distribute LEDiL products, so I found the Farnell distributor in my country, and ordered it through my closest distributor, and it was pretty cheap that way. You can find your closest distributor here: http://export.farnell.com/jsp/home/exportHome.jsp

[BigRiz]

I was wondering whether I should source these parts and sell them off as "upgrade packs" for this lantern. Not sure if there is enough interest though. I think I would be able to sell them for around $25 (including worldwide shipping).. but nothing final yet. For those reading this - would you be interested in such a pack:?

1x XML star (T6 3C bin)
LEDiL BOOM-W reflector
1.4A shiningbeam driver
shiningbeam s-mini switch

Not included in the package:
arctic silver / alumina (or any thermal epoxy)
skill and patience

[Nick4]

I would certainly be interested and be good for at least 2 kits. It would be easier for me since I am not really sure what I need to buy. The driver part seems simple enough. The LED is what I find confusing. The pics of the LED on CNC don't really match what I see on other sites. The LED on CNC seems like it is already applied to a smallish board either 16 or 20mm, whereas the pic on other sites show just the LED itself. To me, it looks like the one from CNC would be easier to deal with. That probably sounds ridiculous for someone who has been in the game for awhile so I am letting my newb status really show. Id link what I am talking about but I don't think i am supposed to link to outside sites like that.

By the way, for anyone interested, I found boom at Mouser electronics, which is much cheaper if you are trying to get it in the US.

[BigRiz]

The board you see on CNC is called an MCPCB for Metal Core Printed Circuit Board, and it is required, so if you buy the LED by itself, you would still need to solder it to an MCPCB yourself, which requires reflow soldering, and is very difficult to do at home.. so definitely, always buy an LED that has already been soldered unless you're really get into the game and get the required equipment.