coachclass
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Messages
- 109
I decided to start a new thread for this since the previous thread was 150+ replies but had different conversation topics. I wanted a thread that stuck to how to modify the LED on the Rayovac Extreme 300. How to take it apart, how to remove the original LED, and how to soldier in a new one.
This is the original post, which you can read for more info.
I just recently replaced the original LED with a Cree XP-G neutral-white. Here's the two parts I brought:
LED from Shiningbeam:
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-24/**NEW**-Cree-XP-dsh-G-R4/Detail
Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal epoxy
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQ1BU/?tag=cpf0b6-20
The basic steps are to take the thing apart, remove the old LED, and resoldier the new LED. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures. Sorry. But here's a few pictures from other CPF users. I'll just put them all here for ease of reference. Credit goes to the original posters:
Taking apart pictures from <netprince>
http://oneitguy.com/blog/rayovac-sportsman-extreme-xml-upgrade
Another picture:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/xpgneutralsolderedin.jpg/
Amazon customer picture of LED:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018S4XIS/?tag=cpf0b6-20
Details:
Ok, like everyone saids, you start by taking out the three screws inside the battery compartment. Pretty simple.
Next, you remove the outer housing from the inner housing, revealing the LED. I'm really stupid, because at first I thought you have to yank on the globe diffuser. You don't. If you look carefully at the rim of the battery compartment, you'll see two plastic walls. The outer housing (holding the globe diffuser) is actually slipped over the inner housing holding the LED/battery housing. You just put your finger on the wall of the battery compartment and slide the two plastic cases past each other. <netprince>'s first picture shows this well.
Next, removing the LED. This was tricky for me. If you look at the Amazon picture dated Feb 2011, you can see that the original LED is on a green PCB. If you look at <netprice> second picture, his original LED is on a white PCB. Both the green and white PCB picture show two "rivets". Others have said you have to drill this out to take the PCB off.
But, the Rayovac lantern I brought in November didn't have rivets. It had a white PCB, but no rivets. It was glued onto the aluminum heat sink. It looked like <netprince>'s picture of the white PCB, but no rivets. I ended up using sand paper to just sand the whole darn thing down to the aluminum heat sink underneath. Not the most graceful solution, but I'm not very handy.
Next, I used the arctic silver thermal epoxy to glue the new LED to the aluminum base. You basically mix the compound together to create a paste, which sets in a few minutes. You want to put a nice layer of it on the aluminum heat sink and plop the new LED on top, squishing it down a bit to get as much contact as possible.
Next, soldier the two wires, and you're done. Note, I had to unsoldier the two wires from the control circuit in order to fish them through the hole on top of the heat sink. Also, I tested the LED before spreading the adhesive, just in case I got a dud.
This is the original post, which you can read for more info.
I just recently replaced the original LED with a Cree XP-G neutral-white. Here's the two parts I brought:
LED from Shiningbeam:
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-24/**NEW**-Cree-XP-dsh-G-R4/Detail
Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal epoxy
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQ1BU/?tag=cpf0b6-20
The basic steps are to take the thing apart, remove the old LED, and resoldier the new LED. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures. Sorry. But here's a few pictures from other CPF users. I'll just put them all here for ease of reference. Credit goes to the original posters:
Taking apart pictures from <netprince>
http://oneitguy.com/blog/rayovac-sportsman-extreme-xml-upgrade
Another picture:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/xpgneutralsolderedin.jpg/
Amazon customer picture of LED:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018S4XIS/?tag=cpf0b6-20
Details:
Ok, like everyone saids, you start by taking out the three screws inside the battery compartment. Pretty simple.
Next, you remove the outer housing from the inner housing, revealing the LED. I'm really stupid, because at first I thought you have to yank on the globe diffuser. You don't. If you look carefully at the rim of the battery compartment, you'll see two plastic walls. The outer housing (holding the globe diffuser) is actually slipped over the inner housing holding the LED/battery housing. You just put your finger on the wall of the battery compartment and slide the two plastic cases past each other. <netprince>'s first picture shows this well.
Next, removing the LED. This was tricky for me. If you look at the Amazon picture dated Feb 2011, you can see that the original LED is on a green PCB. If you look at <netprice> second picture, his original LED is on a white PCB. Both the green and white PCB picture show two "rivets". Others have said you have to drill this out to take the PCB off.
But, the Rayovac lantern I brought in November didn't have rivets. It had a white PCB, but no rivets. It was glued onto the aluminum heat sink. It looked like <netprince>'s picture of the white PCB, but no rivets. I ended up using sand paper to just sand the whole darn thing down to the aluminum heat sink underneath. Not the most graceful solution, but I'm not very handy.
Next, I used the arctic silver thermal epoxy to glue the new LED to the aluminum base. You basically mix the compound together to create a paste, which sets in a few minutes. You want to put a nice layer of it on the aluminum heat sink and plop the new LED on top, squishing it down a bit to get as much contact as possible.
Next, soldier the two wires, and you're done. Note, I had to unsoldier the two wires from the control circuit in order to fish them through the hole on top of the heat sink. Also, I tested the LED before spreading the adhesive, just in case I got a dud.
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