I am in the design stages for a homemade 2xCR123 Titanium Torch using the Malkoff M61 engine and hopefully incorperating infinitely variable output using quantum tunnelling compound pills.
The components i have already purchased from Oveready are:
Ultra Clear Lens for Z44 head
Torchlab tritium SS Bezel for z44 head
I've also bought some qtc pills and a Tank007 E07 to test the pills operation (the E07 is suitable as it is a battery crusher type not sprung, as discussed on multitool.org).
The plan is to isolate both the springs on the Malkoff head and the McClicky switch with plastic and brass screw in plates. The qtc unit will sit in the tail section which will be connected to the main body using quite fine threads, allowing the variable output to be accurately controlled. The torch will be able to be turned off without releasing pressure on the qtc allowing the same output level to be returned to immediately with turning on.
The qtc will be sandwiched between two metal plates to reduce possible damage and eradicate pill movement.
The features i want to aim for are:
Waterproof to a depth of at least 40m (max PADI dive limit for all but professional divers),
Tritium identifiers front and rear and perhaps along the sides,
Titanium main body and head, but i'm not going to be militant about everything being titanium (steel is still better for some applications)
Some anti role features, probably on the tail,
550 Paracord lanyard hole or holes,
Narrowed neck section to allow torch to be clipped into a tensioned spring mount like the ones you use on your workshop walls for tools.
Now for a few questions:
1. Will the internal regulator system in the m61 engine interfere with the desired function of the qtc and stop output adjustment being linear?
If so this will pretty much kill that part of the design.
2. Are two o-rings enough to seal from high pressure even on dynamic (to be twisted while submerged) joints? or is there a better way of sealing joints?
3. Which side of the lens should the o-ring go? As i have seen them on either side on various torches. A bit of the clear UV cure Norland 61 arond the lens might help as well as loctite on all threaded parts that dont need to move.
4. Are the McClicky switches able to cope with depth? i haven't got hold of one yet so can't tell what seals are present.
Any help on these questions would be much appreciated.