100W HID Mod – 15 Million Candlepower Host
I built a 100W Mod using a host I found at Quality Farm & Fleet. I installed some heat-resistant material around the Reflector to protect the internal components from the heat. I replaced the lead acid batteries from the original light with a LIPO Battery I purchased off another CPF member. The LIPO Battery is the same battery that powers my YAO 35W/80W HID. I mounted the 100W Ballast on the bottom (outside) of the light, again similar to ma_sha1's Mod.
100W Mod Specifications
- Ballast Output: 86 watts each (77 volts at 1.12 amps).
- Estimated Light Output: A little over 8,000+ Lumens
- Powered by (1) 14.8v, 12 ah LiPo Battery
- The light is neither water-resistant, nor waterproof.
- Continuous runtime: To Be Determined
- Weight: 6 lbs
Bill of Material:
- Build Cost: $ 212.00
(1) – 15 Million Candlepower 55W Halogen Spotlight
- Imported by Ultimate Solution Tools, Fullerton, CA
- H3 Type, 55W Halogen Bulb
- Sold by: Quality Farm & Fleet
- Reflector Diameter: 170mm (Bezel screws on)
- Overall Length of Light: 280mm
- Body area behind reflector (Battery and Cabling area): H: 80mm x W: 105mm x L: 160mm
- Unit Price: $25.00 plus Tax
(1) - 100W/10-18V-HID Ballast and Bulb (4300K, H3 Type Bulb)
Note, I could have ordered (1) Ballast and Bulb for $72.00, but I will eventually make two of these lights.
- Ebay Price: $115.00/Kit (2 – Ballasts & 2 – Bulbs). Divided $115.00 by 2 = $57.50/Mod
- Input Voltage: Min 10V/ Max 18V, Current Rating: 8.5 Amps, Operating Temp: -40 - +85
- Ballast Dimension: 111mm x 97mm x 36mm
- Bulb: Generic, H3, 3000 Hrs, 4300k. Different temperature bulbs are available. The bulb will be overdriven, so you will not get 3000 Hrs out of it.
(1) – 14.8V, 12 ah LIPO Battery
LIPO Battery Lead Acid (Original Light)
- Purchased from CPF Member: Lips (Vic)
- Price: $100.00 plus shipping
- Dimensions: H:62mm x W:90mm x L:105mm
(1) – Female Adapter Plug for Charging Battery
- Purchased from CPF Member: Lips
(1) – Universal Starter Heat Shield Reflective Mylar for Motor Homes / Race Cars
- Price: $5.00
- I am using this with my existing charger that I have for my YAO 35W/80W HID. You can purchase a charger for this battery from Lips, if you decide to do this Mod.
- Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
- Amazon Price: $12.95 plus shipping
- (3) – Hillman 5/16-18 x 1 ¼ Socket Head Cap Screw – Lowes
- (3) – 5/16-18 Lock Nut – Lowes
- (3) – 5/16-18 Nylon Nuts – Lowes Depot
- (1) – Dean Ultra Plugs (wire connectors) – Local Hobby Store
- (1) – Package of 8”, thin Zip Ties – Walmart
- (2) - Spools of Different Color Wire, 16 Ga.
- (?) - Radio Shack Crimp Connectors
- (?) - Nylon Strap Material
- (?) - Rubber Pad Material
- (?) - Electrical Tape
- (?) - Duct Tape
- Cum Hardware Materials: $10.00
· Wire Crimper – Wire Work
· Wire Striper – Wire Work
· Socket Head Tools – Used to secure Ballasts to case with SCHS (socket head cap screws)
· Needle Nose Pliers - Used to remove Clip that holds in the bulbs and other fine work
· Various Drill Bits – Drilling holes in case
· Electric Drill – Drilling holes in case
· Small Hot Melt Glue – Seal around where wires enter casing - optional
· Dremel with cutting wheel, grinder bit – Trimming internal plastic mounting bracket, cutting hole in Host
· Soldering Gun & Electrical Solder – Wire work
· Heat Gun – Heat Shrink covers on Dean wire connectors. Hair Dryer would probably work too.
· Small Hack Saw - Cutting out plastic rib to make a slot for the battery
Comments: If you plan on making this light from these directions, I would recommend reading through them first, and then read each step individually before executing a task.
Step 1 – Cut off LegsI used a Dremel to cut off the legs on the bottom of the light so I can install the 100W Ballast.
Step 2 – Attach 100W Ballast
Here are some additional Pics.
I drilled three holes in the bottom of the host to mount the Ballast. I had to mount the Ballast so that the Ballast cables were at the back of the light to avoid an interference issue with the reflector. I attached the ballast to the Host using the Socket Head Cap Screws & Lock Nuts. I used the Nylon Nuts between the Ballast and the host to create an air gap. I drilled a hole into the left side of the host for the Ballast’s power wires. I cut out a hole in the right side of the host for the Ballast’s output wires. If I were to do this mod again, I would probably run the Ballast wires in through the back of the host instead of the sides. There seems to be enough internal clearance space between the battery and the host.
Step 3 – Prepare Battery
To create a snug fit, I cut some rubber material into strips and then attached/glued them to the battery. I also modified a nylon strap and put it around the battery so I could easily pull the battery out of the case. Next I added a special quick disconnect to the battery cables.
Step 4 – Prepare Charge Plug
I decided to purchase a new charge plug to install into the light. The connections had to be soldered, and I had to drill out the existing charge plug hole in the host to make it larger. The new plug came with a rubber plug to keep out moisture. I would note the terminals on the Charge Plug are fragile. In fact I broke of the positive lead connector and had to order another one.
Step 5 – Prepare the On/Off Switch
I basically rewired the switch with 16 gauge wire. I thought the existing wire gauge was too small.
Step 6 – Prepare Plastic Shield Plate
I used a dremel to cut out some sections to eliminate an interference issue with the mounting bolts for the Ballast. I also thought I had to cut out a section to provide clearance for the small square ballast component (don’t know the official name), but I didn’t have to do that….Live and Learn.
Step 6 – Stuff it
With the battery installed, stuff the cables into the host and then screw down the Plastic Shield Plate. Everything stuffed pretty well as you can tell. As mentioned above, I did not have to cut out a clearance section for the ballast component.
Step 7 – Install Heat Reflector Material
Based on some of the other mods, I added the Heat Reflector Material around the reflector. This stuff insulates the Battery and Cables/Wires from the heat generated by the bulb. I used a little duct tape to hold the Heat Reflector Material together for installation.
Step 8 – Close it up
Install the bulb into the Reflector, install the Reflector into the host, and screw on the Lens Cover. I glued on a piece of black plastic to the outside of the host to cover up the hole where the Ballast cables enter the right side of the host.
When I fired this up, it has a very strong spot similar to my 80W mule. It has a tighter spot than the Barn Burner.
I'll try to post some beam shots of this 100W MOD, my 80W Mule, and my Barn Burner in a couple of weeks.