Heat transfer in divelight head

patrickDM

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Sep 15, 2009
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Hi all,

After using a commercial (modded) canister primary (Halogen) for many years, a I was thinking of re-using the battery-canister \\
and hook it up to a LED head ...

I got a ALU head with suitable dimensions from Alunatec, a 7XPG-R5 module, a MaxFlex6 driver, and a (prolonged signal)
Piezo to operate it.

Although I had some initial ideas to cool the LED array & driver using Aluminum profiles, non of these worked out (mechanically).
So, I'm in desperate need for some advice & new ideas on how to mate the LED/Driver support with the ALU housing (which
would provide the best cooling when submerged).
The inner-diameter of the housing is 50mm ...

DiveLight1.jpg


DiveLight2.jpg


Has anyone tackled a similar problem, and succeeded in getting appropriate cooling/heat
transfer to the external housing ?

Thanks & greetz

Patrick
 

jspeybro

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Aug 13, 2009
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Location
Belgium
If you have (access to) a lathe, you can turn a 50mm diameter piece of alluminium that nicely fits in this housing and has the right height. This has worked for me on a greenforce HID head.
If you don't have a lathe, you might be lucky that alluminium rods of 50mm fits nicely (here in europe, 50mm is a standard size). It will then be a matter of getting it flat and the right length and bore it out a bit on the backside to provide space for the driver.
 

patrickDM

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Sep 15, 2009
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Hi jspeybro,

Thanks for your suggestion ... Unfortunately I do not have access to a lathe, but
I can always look for a workshop ... Aren't there some practical issues though with
this approach ?... I.e. there's no easy way to adjust the height ... once the heat-sink
is pressed-in, it will be very hard to remove again (if possible at all) ... and for sure
some channels will need to be drilled to allow the wires through ... but that's only
a minor problem.

Thanks & greetz

Patrick
 

Codiak

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Dec 7, 2009
Messages
515
Rather then press fit you could use jbweld, at least this way you could adjust it a bit.

Where are you located?
 

little nick

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Apr 21, 2011
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Devon - UK
Hi jspeybro,

Thanks for your suggestion ... Unfortunately I do not have access to a lathe, but
I can always look for a workshop ... Aren't there some practical issues though with
this approach ?... I.e. there's no easy way to adjust the height ... once the heat-sink
is pressed-in, it will be very hard to remove again (if possible at all) ... and for sure
some channels will need to be drilled to allow the wires through ... but that's only
a minor problem.

Thanks & greetz

Patrick
Have a local machine shop turn something for you. You can calculate the length you need - so the optics fit in.
You don't want an interference fit - just a push fit so you can slide it out as required. I use the cable to push the heat sink out (does not damage any joints - as it has a strain relief joining the sink to the cable.
 

patrickDM

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Sep 15, 2009
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Ok, thanks for the help & suggestions ... I will contact some local shops & see what they can make.
I will post some pictures once complete.

Cheers

Patrick
 

350xfire

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Aug 14, 2008
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Texas
You could always thread the insert and the body and screw in the insert.
 

patrickDM

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Sep 15, 2009
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I guess that would work, although I'm not that sure if threading the inner of the 50mm dia housing would be very feasible ... it's
somewhat deep(er) inside the head.
I have a solution in my mind, I'll post some pictures if I find a CNC shop to make it ....
 

Codiak

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Dec 7, 2009
Messages
515
I guess that would work, although I'm not that sure if threading the inner of the 50mm dia housing would be very feasible ... it's
somewhat deep(er) inside the head.
I have a solution in my mind, I'll post some pictures if I find a CNC shop to make it ....

If your US based and can't find a local shop ping me.
 

jspeybro

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Aug 13, 2009
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Location
Belgium
Patrick, I live in Brussels :) and have a small lathe, so I might be able to help you. If the inner diameter is really 50mm, I would need to go and get some alluminium though (I don't have a 55mm rod to start from at the moment). PM me if you are interested.

Johan
 

betti154

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Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Messages
229
Hi jspeybro,

Thanks for your suggestion ... Unfortunately I do not have access to a lathe, but
I can always look for a workshop ... Aren't there some practical issues though with
this approach ?... I.e. there's no easy way to adjust the height ... once the heat-sink
is pressed-in, it will be very hard to remove again (if possible at all) ... and for sure
some channels will need to be drilled to allow the wires through ... but that's only
a minor problem.

Thanks & greetz

Patrick

It's low tech, but I've used excess cable pushed into the back I the housing through the gland to control where the heatsink fits. A snug slip fit is all you need with some thermal grease so don't worry about it getting stuck in. Worst case push it out from the back via the gland hole.
 

patrickDM

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Sep 15, 2009
Messages
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Hi all ..

Sorry for not replying the questions earlier, and thanks for the offered help & tips ! ... somehow I stopped receiving mails notifying me about new entries
in this thread :(
Indeed, I got the head from Alunatec .. The quality seems pretty good (although I'm yet to take the housing under-water) ..
I also contacted them about a heatsink-solution I designed (basically, an expanding slug), and the parts are currently under way ... I'll post some pictures
once they arrive, and some follow-up for the completed head.

Cheers & thanks, Patrick.
 

patrickDM

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Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Messages
18
Forgot to reply to Delphinus question ... I'll be using a Polymer Optics lens assembly, the 12degree version

LT-1730-1289298322.jpg


I also have the Kathod 10 degree lens, but from what I've read in other threads, it seems the bundle is nowhere near that
figure (could well be the same for the Polymer Optics though).

Cheers Patrick
 
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