ive been on a L1 frenzy this month, and i dont think im done yet.
ive been on a L1 frenzy this month, and i dont think im done yet.
Ive noticed that gen 1/2/3 l1's seem to attract a higher price than the newer ones. What is with that? Is it purely a collector thing? A modding thing? Or is there something about them that makes them awesome?
Have you tried that? It is generally not a good idea to have two drivers in series, so direct drive P60 drop-ins would be fine, but ones with drivers may not cooperate and could drive one or both of the drivers to overload or overheat as they compete with each other to modify the voltage and amps. Surefire makes it so you can not put an E series KL or KX head on an L1 for that reason. The threads are compatible, but the ID of the L1 interferes with the ID of KL and KX heads.
Last edited by Blindasabat; 03-29-2012 at 10:23 AM.
The older versions had the "four-flats" battery tube that many think looks more stylish, and the very first models also had a different bezel, too.
The first generation(s) are also less common, for collectors.
The early LED & drivers had significantly lower output, but *extreme* runtimes ( > thousands of hours), compared with the newer models.
Just last week, something that doesn't happen all that often anymore with the older L1's ...
Sorry, this one is just a 'white', otherwise I'd happily trade/sell off a colored head to you afficionados. I'm just finally getting around to looking into 17670-boring for this perfect-length Gen5 body. I have a few Gen6's which are happy with 1xCR123 or 1xIMR123, but the sheer capacity potential for these slightly longer bodies is just too tempting.
Edit: I tell ya, the knurling on these is just incredible - the grippiest flashlight body I've ever owned.
Is the clip on your L1 the one that it shipped with Kestrel? It looks longer than the one on the gen5 red I got off the mp.
I have a gen3 and gen5, both modded by Milky. They are such better lights now. I didn't realize that any of the L1s were long enough to be bored for 17670 cells. After using RCR123a cells & 18650 cells for a long time, and resisting buying 17670 cells, I'm starting to break down and buy a few, and will probably eventually get more. There's just no end to buying 'more accessories'.
1) Is the gen3 long enough to take a 17670, as well?
2) There is the 'electronics stuff' in the muzzle end of the L1 tube. Would you be kind enough to recommend someone/some people you think would do a good job of removing the electronics in the tube, boring, and then replacing it?
Milky can probably do it. i remember him mentioning that the electronics of the battery tube would be moved into the bezel. this is what he told me when i asked him about converting an L1 for AA batteries.
thread I'm doing on my SureFire L2, I have lots of detailed pics showing a comparable disassembly there. (Just please don't bump it until I have another update to supply for it, lol. ) FYI, the driver module of the Gen5 L1 is the exact same length as the L2 driver module I photographed in that thread. I'm certain that the driver module in the Gen6 L1 is shorter, I'm not sure about the driver modules in the L1's prior to Gen4.
Regarding replacing the electronics, the usual solution is to remove the heatsink from the 'dumb' L1 head, add a new driver to a custom-built heatsink and install the new assembly in the L1 head, freeing up more room in the body for the cell. It's a lot of work to gain just a little room (i.e. going from 1xCR123/1xIMR123 to 1x17500 in a Gen6), but with these particular bodies, 2xCR123/1x17670 is possible, making it a whole different game entirely.
I would be happy to post more pics when I have some progress to report on this L1.
Last edited by Kestrel; 03-30-2012 at 11:07 AM.
Milky did two gen1 & 2 bodies that I have.
One I had him bore out for me to fit a 17500 with a spacer. The second I bought already modified and it fit 2xCR123 with a 1st gen KL1 bezel modified to lower the contact by about 1mm.
I saw a thread some time ago - somebody (Maxsatilus?) had Milky mod a gen6 to fit 17500 by lowering the bezel contact by about 1mm as well.
So according to all I have seen, call Milkyspit.
Last edited by Blindasabat; 03-30-2012 at 03:03 PM. Reason: verbiage
I still carry my L1 quite often...
I love its big cree "splotch" of a hotspot - much bigger than my E1B or E1L. Its like a glob of french vanilla tinted goodness.
...as for me, when you want a good laugh, you will find me, in a fine state, fat and flourishing, a true hog of Epicurus' herd...
Running Collection List HERE
MD3 | M6CB | Gladius/SSCP4 | A2-HA-WH | A2-HA-YG | A2-BK-WH | Z3/KT2 | M2 | C2 | 6Z | 6P | U2A | K2MS | E2e/KL4 BK | E2DL | E2D | E2L | L2 | Milky ML1/SSCP4 USWOH McR18j | L1-BK-RD | L1-HA-WH | L1-HA-WH Cree | L1-HA-RD | 3P | E1B | E1L | E1E-HA-BK | E1W | 618FA | G2
green? thats funny, cause when i bought the gen1, its description mentioned "green". but when i got it, its cool white, with a sight purplish hotspot. either way, i was extremely pleased when i received it.
the gen1 i carry most, it feels outstanding in the hand. best ergonomics of any light ive ever held.
during daylight hours, i carry the 6th gen more for its med/high modes.
and during nightfall, i carry the 1st gen more, for its low/med modes. i love the beam on the gen 1, it has a smooth floody beam.
im also a high CRI junky, and prefer warm tints, but the L1 is such a great EDC, i can live with the cool tints.... for now .
these are the only multiplies i have of any one model of lights, and the lego has been fun, and knowing i have spare parts for my favorite EDCs is nice.
I love my L1, though its seen a good bit less pocket time than my e1b as of late. I prefer the smaller form factor and smoother body of the e1b, and for everyday use the clicky suites me better. However the two stage momentary button of the L1 is excellent for a tactical light. Still has the benefit of low output, with high mode always immediately and predictably at the ready... Its the light I now grab for 'things that go bump in the night'
JUST GOT MY FIRST L1!!!
so: what gen is it? is this gen safe to run on 16340s?
this isn't the 4 flats it looks like because I only see three flattened surfaces for the clip and the lettering sides
"so: what gen is it? is this gen safe to run on 16340s?"
The only round-bodied L1s were the gen5, and the last version, the gen6. I have a gen5, but no gen6, and it looks to me like a gen5. I actually prefer the longer runtimes on the gen5, to the gen6. The date of your brochure would also seem to suggest a gen5.
[see post#10 for a brief overview of the different generations of the L1]
I do not want to tell you with certainty that it will take a 3.7 volt rechargeable, but Milky modded mine, and I had him leave the circuitry stock, and his label says that mine can be used with 3.7 volts, although that might be because I had him upgrade the emitter to a high-CRI XP-G
Last edited by novice; 04-02-2012 at 06:09 PM.
I wouldn't try a LiIon in that one, the driver might take it but I'm thinking that the LED might not.
The thing is that those weren't all that bright anyway, not like the Gen 6's, so even if it didn't fry, it still wouldn't be competitive.
The strength of those Gen 5's were the focused aspheric beam and the looooong runtimes ...
Edit: Here's my L1 driver module from the Gen 5 L1 I posted in this thread previously. Glad to know it can do 1xLiIon voltage input, not sure what I'll be using this for but sounds like it could still be useful.
Last edited by Kestrel; 04-02-2012 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Added pic of driver
I just bought my first Surefire L1 can't wait until it arrives, sounds like a great little light.
Well, you people have done it. I've had to go and get some of the older models just to see whta all the fuss is about. I've already got a nice red gen5 on the way, and now a white one. This is to go with the 2 gen 6's I have (one brand new as a backup to my user). Now I won't be happy until I have a gen1/2/3 to see what the fuss is with those. And I'll need a blue and green gen 5 to go with the red.. ARGH!
Are there any aftermarket adaptors that allow the L1 to tail stand? If so, what's the best way to remove the leash ring? The Olight diffuser fits on the front perfectly BTW.
Another run of these may be coming soon ?
Those were for E series. The L1 is a different size. But if delrin is OK with yoiu, JS Burleys has tail standing shrouds for E series and A/L series.