Best Kept Secret?

[MDJAK]

Don't mind at all. I got no secrets. :lol:

I really couldn't decide between the P40 and the Abyss. There is a P40 for sale on the marketplace, price has been reduced, asking 1250, but shipping I think from Malaysia. I trust the seller, but he wants 1250 plus over a hundred for shipping for a 2 yr old light.

I applied the CPF discount coupon directly with Polarion and that's 25 percent off. The light sells for $1895, as you probably know, but it comes down to a little over 1400 with the discount. I also ordered the tether. Can't wait.

mark

[Ginseng]

Thanks! A fella can dream.

Wilkey

[khalwat]

Don't mind at all. I got no secrets. :lol:

I really couldn't decide between the P40 and the Abyss. There is a P40 for sale on the marketplace, price has been reduced, asking 1250, but shipping I think from Malaysia. I trust the seller, but he wants 1250 plus over a hundred for shipping for a 2 yr old light.

I applied the CPF discount coupon directly with Polarion and that's 25 percent off. The light sells for $1895, as you probably know, but it comes down to a little over 1400 with the discount. I also ordered the tether. Can't wait.

mark

As someone who just recently purchased a Polarion Abyss Dual S, I can safely say that you will not be disappointed. It's a fantastic dive light, as well as being a pretty sick searchlight.

Also, hai Wilkey. Still skipping? Moki

[MDJAK]

It came yesterday. Only played for few minutes. It is amazing. Can't wait for it to get dark tonight.

[Trevtrain]

Hi guys, long time reader but new poster.

On the theme of "best kept secret" could this possibly be due to HID technology being more fragile or more complicated?
For example, most LED flashlights seem to be pretty durable when compared with older bulb-style lights. Even my long serving ancient mini-mag (which was a great light for its day) would almost certainly chip/break the little pin-type bulb if I accidentally dropped it on a hard surface. Filament bulbs just don't like impacts - especially when running.
In addition, apart from some schooling on Li-Ion battery precautions, pretty much anyone can pick up an LED model, press the switch and use it much the same way as the "old-fashioned" incans they grew up with. But it seems HIDs might require a lot more care.

I really haven't looked much into HID because it seemed so "specialised" and as others here have pointed out, not really suitable for built-up areas but I do have a couple of questions that perhaps someone can help with.

• Are the bulbs replaceable in any of these HID lights? With 50,000 hours typically quoted for LEDs, 3,000 hrs (or as little as 1,000 if improperly used) makes these lights seem a bit short-lived in comparison.
• Do HID lights require more careful handling than LED alternatives? Can they tolerate accidental physical abuse such as dropping onto concrete?
• I gather the current drain is very high on most of these lights - does this mean IMR batteries are the only practical power source, or do most users stick to primaries?
• As IMRs have no protection do HID manufacturers need to provide better regulation in the light itself to avoid over-discharge or does it fall to the user to manage cell voltages more carefully?

Just some things I wondered; any info you could share would be welcome.

Thanks folks
Trev

[FRITZHID]

1) alot of HID lights have replaceable lamps, infact, alot of us replace the stock 6000k-8000k lamps with 4200k-5000k for a nicer color, or replace stock 55w with 35w bulbs.
2) HIDs have much better impact preformance then Halogens, and are probably comparable to LED in that reguard. more likely a ballast or connection failure due to impact then the bulb. and like any other light the front lens is more likely to break then the bulb itself.
3) current drain in comparison to Halogen is actualy less per lumen. the split sec start up of a 35w-55w is in the 10A draw for less then 1 second, then dropping down to as low as 2A for constant run. my Stanley draws 2.14A once warmed up. it's 35w. most LiPo batts don't have an issue with this draw.
4) as far as discharge, some light do, most don't have a low protection for the Batts. alot of the Ballasts DO cut off at a certen voltage, but depending on the Batt set up your useing this may or may not be within the lo-volt batt specs. i would personaly test the ballasts lo-volt cut off and go from there. not to mention it would not be hard to make a lo-volt cutoff circuit for these.

if i've mistaken any of these thoughts, feel free to correct me, this is just baised on what i've read and exp'd in my projects.

[Trevtrain]

Thanks for the update Fritzhid.

A 10A startup would be a problem for some protected cells I would think as I have read that they can have over-current trips as well as low/high-voltage detection. I wonder if a "split-second" startup as you describe it would be detected as a short and trip the circuit? No problem for IMR I assume.

I haven't seen many HID products in retail outlets here in Australia so your talk of replacing lamps or testing ballasts is a bit new for me. Making circuitry (lo-volt or otherwise) is something I haven't played with since my days of messing around with electronics "kits" as a kid. Guess I just need to learn where to look for the info and parts - I assume most of you HID guys shop online for what you need?

I've really only seriously started researching high quality LED products over the past couple of years - damn, now I have a whole new area to go out and investigate!

Cheers

[FRITZHID]

well, i did some testing on a 55w HID with some IMR & protected cells last night, and the start up surge wasn't even near enough to trip the cutoffs, it's a fraction of a second, barely even registered on my meter, had to put it on the oscilloscope to see it at all, lol.
i source my ballasts/bulbs on line.

[Trevtrain]

Thanks Fritz, that's useful to know.