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Thread: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by 350xfire View Post
    While you are at it, I would try to make a delrin plug and replace those plastic glangs with Agros.
    You almost completely lost me. I think by "glangs" you mean glands? I'm not sure what "Agros" are, but I'll search. Does the delrin plug work together with the Agro? How does one make a delrin plug?

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by 350xfire View Post
    While you are at it, I would try to make a delrin plug and replace those plastic glangs with Agros.
    You almost completely lost me. I believe "glangs" is supposed to be glands? I have no idea what Agros are, but I'll search. Does a delrin plug work with the Agro, and how does one go about making it?

    Also, I was thinking about mocking up an XML star to see if there is space enough for driver / switch to sit in the slots. Does anyone have a recommendation for an XML / star?

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    Default Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Last night I inherited a Deepoutdoors LED Cold Fusion can light. The head had been flooded, and the PCB shows corrosion. I haven't tested the battery pack yet, but I don't have a charger either.It appears Deepoutdoors is out of business, or maybe on haitus? The LED module itself is stamped with NiteRider Dive, and while Nite Rider is still in business, the dive light operation is not.Does anyone have any details on this light that may help me resuscitate it? What I'm hoping for is a nice solder-in replacement, but if I need to build a new set, I'm willing to try.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by undrwater View Post
    Last night I inherited a Deepoutdoors LED Cold Fusion can light. The head had been flooded, and the PCB shows corrosion. I haven't tested the battery pack yet, but I don't have a charger either.It appears Deepoutdoors is out of business, or maybe on haitus? The LED module itself is stamped with NiteRider Dive, and while Nite Rider is still in business, the dive light operation is not.Does anyone have any details on this light that may help me resuscitate it? What I'm hoping for is a nice solder-in replacement, but if I need to build a new set, I'm willing to try.
    The battrery pack is 7.2 volt lithium ion, a charger should be easy to find.
    As for the rest, an Cree XML led and a taskled lflex driver should fix you right up.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Thanks! I'm a noob, so please be patient. I'm assuming the emitter is soldered onto the controller? Does the controller have a heat sink? The original had 3 led's in a triangular pattern with a hole cut in the PCB so the emitters had direct access to the heat sink.

    Also, this light used what I assume is a magnetic switch in the head. Does the controller accept this, or will I need something else?

    Thanks again!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    taskled.com has magnetic switches as well so there should be something that can work. if it is basically just an on-off switch, I suggest the H6CC driver. If the magnetic switch is not working any more, I suppose you could use a magnetic switch from taskled, or in some cases a read contact.
    other than dat, dealextreme.com and kaidomain.com etc also have nice drivers for 7.2V battery packs that work well with cree XM-L leds and oter leds.
    any idea which leds the original leds were?

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by jspeybro View Post
    taskled.com has magnetic switches as well so there should be something that can work. if it is basically just an on-off switch, I suggest the H6CC driver. If the magnetic switch is not working any more, I suppose you could use a magnetic switch from taskled, or in some cases a read contact.
    other than dat, dealextreme.com and kaidomain.com etc also have nice drivers for 7.2V battery packs that work well with cree XM-L leds and oter leds.
    any idea which leds the original leds were?
    I have no clue what emitters were there in the first place. If I took a picture, would you be able to tell?

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by undrwater View Post
    I have no clue what emitters were there in the first place. If I took a picture, would you be able to tell?
    Yes, most likely.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    I loaned the led module to a friend who is studying electronics to study and learn. In the meantime, what I'm interested in when this thing gets up and running (see the positive attitude??!! :-)) is a beam that is about the same as a 10w HID with a nice tight beam. I'm guessing that one emmitter will be easier to focus than three. Am I correct in this?

    The current reflector is 3cm in diameter, and 1.5 deep. I've seen some that are similar in shape / size. Do most people mod these to fit an application?

    I'll be back with pictures of the module and the head with the magnetic switch.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Here's a shot of the head sans module. You can see the heat sink in a triangular pattern. Approximate outer diameter of the head is 4cm.



    Here is the magnetic switch mechanism:


    As you can see, it's a VERY compact head, which I like. I'll add the module as soon as I get my hands on it.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    For that beam, an XM-L and aspheric lens should work quite well and should fit your head nicely. An HID can be focused tighter than an LED typically, because the emitting area is smaller, but I just tested my XM-L and Ahorton 28mm aspheric last night, and got a beam 9" wide at 61". Anything much tighter than that is going to look more like a lightsaber than a light .

    The front of the Ahorton aspheric (don't get anything but Ahorton's unless you need a different diameter) will be about 0.9" from the top of the LED dome for tightest focus. Move it closer for wider focus - 0.3" closer gets you a beam about 47" wide at 61", and the lens is nearly touching the LED. The lens location needs to be pretty accurate for best focus, so make sure you have the ability to tweak it. Also, the aspheric will need to be in air on both sides, so you need an additional lens (a flat plate is good) in front of it.

    We've gotten to the point where you get more light out of a good 10W LED than a 10W HID, but the CRI isn't as good and heatsinking requires more thought. If you are doing photography and need the best colors, you might want a different solution, but it's hard to beat 1 LED, 1 lens, 1 driver for simplicity or to beat an XM-L for efficiency.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Nice swich mechanism on that Niterider head (sorry Cold Fusion ) .. I see some seat inside aluminium head (for PCB ? ) . Have PCB holes on LED place that can lead heat away to housing?

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Thanks for the info on the lens. This is what I was having difficulty finding. Based on the photo above, do you think it will be possible to attach the XM-L directly to the heat sink? When I get the module back, it should be clear how deepoutdoors did it.

    As far as photography is concerned, I only photograph for documentation, not for aesthetics, so it should be no problem. I currently use a 10w HID (Salvo), which has a nice tight beam when focused to do so, and is about as bright as I like. I'm hoping to get as close to this as possible. Once I find the source for the lens, I believe I will be ready to start the purchase process.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by lucca brassi View Post
    Nice swich mechanism on that Niterider head (sorry Cold Fusion ) .. I see some seat inside aluminium head (for PCB ? ) . Have PCB holes on LED place that can lead heat away to housing?
    That's correct, the emitters sat directly on that aluminium. I'll have a photo soon showing that. Wondering if I will be able to do the same for a single emitter. Also wondering how I will take advantage of that magnet.

    @DIWdiver: is this the lens you were speaking of?:
    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/glass-o...ghts-28mm-5297

    It looks like it may be a tight fit with a flat lens in front. How much space do you suppose it requires?

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head


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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    if i remember rightly the ahorton lens is 14 mm thick
    and the base needs to be about 12 mm from the led base ( top of star)

    so you'll need around 26-30mm from that heat sink to the outer (flat) lens

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by b-bassett View Post
    if i remember rightly the ahorton lens is 14 mm thick
    and the base needs to be about 12 mm from the led base ( top of star)

    so you'll need around 26-30mm from that heat sink to the outer (flat) lens
    I don't have anywhere near that amount of space. I think I can JUST get 30mm if I get a small dremel tool in there and cut down the heat sink to the bottom. Do you all think that's practical? I really WANT this to work. I love the beam that I'm seeing in the pics.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    almost anything is possible, but not always practical.

    i thought that head looked a bit shallow, whats behind the heatsink? if its solid aluminium and you can mount the led direct to it, you should be able to do something.
    the other problem will be the driver though, not sure if theres any room for it

    can you take some more pics of the head, directly down the barrel would be helpfull. a sketch of the heads cross section would be even more usefull.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by b-bassett View Post

    can you take some more pics of the head, directly down the barrel would be helpfull. a sketch of the heads cross section would be even more usefull.
    I'll do both.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Be sure the original LED and driver can't be cleaned up and made to work.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by gcbryan View Post
    Be sure the original LED and driver can't be cleaned up and made to work.
    I don't hold much hope for this as the whole head was flooded with saltwater, and never rinsed out (the previous owner was unaware that the light head had flooded). Even if it works for now, I wouldn't hold my breath for too long. If any of the LED's work, I may use them in another project.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    I picked up one of these lights awhile back, also inoperative, and have tried to revive it. The head in my light is fine, but the problem lies in the electronics located in the battery can. From what I can tell, one of the inductors was damaged, and a fet was fried. With no support from Niterider, I tried having a local shop replace the bad components, but didn't have much success. I could get the batteries to charge properly, but it would not light/switch correctly.

    From what I understand, this light needs both the pcb and switch in the head, and another board in the can to both work with each other for the light to work properly. The board in the can both regulates the charging of the batteries, and driving the output of the light (on/100%/50%/off). There is the magnetic switch in the head along with the leds (3x SSC P4's, I think).

    I've also toyed with the idea of using it with an xml with ahorton aspheric, but not sure there is enough space without machining down where the P4's were heatsinked. Assuming the innards of the head are toast due to the flood, and that you're moving on to trying a different led/driver combination - you'll likely not need the driver board in the can. I'd be very interested in it, if you plan on pitching it out.

    Either way, I'm interested on how you progress on this. Best of luck.

    Mike

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    OK. Here is my (poor) sketch of the Fusion Head:


    Here is the top-down on the LEDs:


    Here's a pic that shows what I THINK is the switch:

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head


    This shows the back of the LEDs. Where they sit on top of the heatsink.



    Here's the top-down view of the head.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    On your place I'll put that head on grinder or lathe and clean out complete head from those inserts and get clean cylindrical hole . That mean holder for leds and centre thin barrier between cable inlet and reed witch room. You should leave upper raw metal alone because behind is lead for magnet )

    Next thing is to made on lathe nice H shape heatsink with tight fitting (4-5mm metal thickness ). Keep in mind to remember best position to put reed swich on right place .

    Put in first half H shape heat sink driver and in second led (opposite side ) . Heatsink should trapped with screw drilled through H perpendicular to the enclosure




    Then I think you have place to choose driver , optics and led by your own taste ( probably XML , ) or SST50 .

    I see no reason to save existing state with those triple P4 , because I think you get troubles with temperature dissapation.


    I suggest a ''clean install'' , should save many headaches
    Last edited by lucca brassi; 03-05-2012 at 06:34 AM.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by lucca brassi View Post
    I suggest a ''clean install'' , should save many headaches
    +1

    Excellent advice, plus the P4's are so outdated by now, that even a "simple" 3x XP-G board to replace the existing 3x P4's would be a HUGE improvement:
    http://www.ledsupply.com/indusstar-3up.php

    if you go with that 3x board I linked above, you can easily pick an optic (made for those boards) that makes the whole thing plug-n-play

    Will
    Please no PM/Visitor Msg's. Email for questions/Paypal: wquiles [at] gmail {dot} com. Please visit my new website.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    definatly recomend getting that pedastal removed, gives you a flat clean base to work off of, plus there would then be enough room for the led + optics

    a single xml with ahorton's lens will work perfectly in there, or as also sugested a triple board with a cute narow optic should be a major improvment over the old.

    i think the driver will need to fit into one of those recess's though, that could be a little challenging, but not impossible. (there are a few boards around with the driver and LED on a single board)

    the reed switch arrangement should be easy enough to replicate, but depends on where your putting the driver.

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    Quote Originally Posted by lucca brassi View Post
    On your place I'll put that head on grinder or lathe and clean out complete head from those inserts and get clean cylindrical hole . That mean holder for leds and centre thin barrier between cable inlet and reed witch room. You should leave upper raw metal alone because behind is lead for magnet )

    Next thing is to made on lathe nice H shape heatsink with tight fitting (4-5mm metal thickness ). Keep in mind to remember best position to put reed swich on right place .

    Put in first half H shape heat sink driver and in second led (opposite side ) . Heatsink should trapped with screw drilled through H perpendicular to the enclosure




    Then I think you have place to choose driver , optics and led by your own taste ( probably XML , ) or SST50 .

    I see no reason to save existing state with those triple P4 , because I think you get troubles with temperature dissapation.


    I suggest a ''clean install'' , should save many headaches
    I like this idea just for being more "homemade". I also like the xml with the aspheric lens (been looking about the site and like the beams). About the heat sink, I have a hard time picturing what you are talking about. I imagine the "H" fitting into the head where the "legs" are touching the walls leaving the open sections such that the driver and switch can fit into the current "wells" that are already there. Is this correct? Hardest part to understand was:
    Heatsink should trapped with screw drilled through H perpendicular to the enclosure
    By this, do you mean screw down into the center of the "H" then into the body of the existing heat sink (what is left after machining)?

    Finally, you mention using a reed switch. Do you think that is what is appropriate for the existing magnet? It is spring loaded, so it does not stay in the position, but springs back. I thought the hall toggle was more appropriate based on this. Thoughts?

    Thanks all for your help!

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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    The Hall Toggle may be better, if you can get the sensor into the correct position, and the magnet moves far enough to turn the hall on and off. It could actually be too sensitive to place directly over the magnet. You'd have to play with it to see what works.

    If you need lathe work to clean out the head, I may be able to help. PM if interested.

    Don

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    Flashaholic* lucca brassi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

    About the heat sink, I have a hard time picturing what you are talking about. I imagine the "H" fitting into the head where the "legs" are touching the walls leaving the open sections such that the driver and switch can fit into the current "wells" that are already there. Is this correct?
    yes

    By this, do you mean screw down into the center of the "H" then into the body of the existing heat sink (what is left after machining)?
    Not centre - just through side of one ''legs''. I used ''recessed ''allen screw M4 for easier work . I also put some arctic silver 5 between housing walls and heatsink.

    If you imagine cross section of upper picture is symetrical through centrehorizontal and vertical .

    No rocket science it is simple and it works ;-) . Sorry for language it is hard to express sometimes specially if you want to talk multi- dimensional ;-).
    and google also don't help too much.
    Last edited by lucca brassi; 03-05-2012 at 11:52 PM.

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