Deepoutdoors Cold Fusion - Flooded Head

undrwater

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While you are at it, I would try to make a delrin plug and replace those plastic glangs with Agros.

You almost completely lost me. :confused: I think by "glangs" you mean glands? I'm not sure what "Agros" are, but I'll search. Does the delrin plug work together with the Agro? How does one make a delrin plug?
 

undrwater

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While you are at it, I would try to make a delrin plug and replace those plastic glangs with Agros.

You almost completely lost me. I believe "glangs" is supposed to be glands? I have no idea what Agros are, but I'll search. Does a delrin plug work with the Agro, and how does one go about making it?

Also, I was thinking about mocking up an XML star to see if there is space enough for driver / switch to sit in the slots. Does anyone have a recommendation for an XML / star?
 

undrwater

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Last night I inherited a Deepoutdoors LED Cold Fusion can light. The head had been flooded, and the PCB shows corrosion. I haven't tested the battery pack yet, but I don't have a charger either.It appears Deepoutdoors is out of business, or maybe on haitus? The LED module itself is stamped with NiteRider Dive, and while Nite Rider is still in business, the dive light operation is not.Does anyone have any details on this light that may help me resuscitate it? What I'm hoping for is a nice solder-in replacement, but if I need to build a new set, I'm willing to try.
 

Codiak

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Last night I inherited a Deepoutdoors LED Cold Fusion can light. The head had been flooded, and the PCB shows corrosion. I haven't tested the battery pack yet, but I don't have a charger either.It appears Deepoutdoors is out of business, or maybe on haitus? The LED module itself is stamped with NiteRider Dive, and while Nite Rider is still in business, the dive light operation is not.Does anyone have any details on this light that may help me resuscitate it? What I'm hoping for is a nice solder-in replacement, but if I need to build a new set, I'm willing to try.

The battrery pack is 7.2 volt lithium ion, a charger should be easy to find.
As for the rest, an Cree XML led and a taskled lflex driver should fix you right up.
 

undrwater

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Thanks! I'm a noob, so please be patient. I'm assuming the emitter is soldered onto the controller? Does the controller have a heat sink? The original had 3 led's in a triangular pattern with a hole cut in the PCB so the emitters had direct access to the heat sink.

Also, this light used what I assume is a magnetic switch in the head. Does the controller accept this, or will I need something else?

Thanks again!
 

jspeybro

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taskled.com has magnetic switches as well so there should be something that can work. if it is basically just an on-off switch, I suggest the H6CC driver. If the magnetic switch is not working any more, I suppose you could use a magnetic switch from taskled, or in some cases a read contact.
other than dat, dealextreme.com and kaidomain.com etc also have nice drivers for 7.2V battery packs that work well with cree XM-L leds and oter leds.
any idea which leds the original leds were?
 

undrwater

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taskled.com has magnetic switches as well so there should be something that can work. if it is basically just an on-off switch, I suggest the H6CC driver. If the magnetic switch is not working any more, I suppose you could use a magnetic switch from taskled, or in some cases a read contact.
other than dat, dealextreme.com and kaidomain.com etc also have nice drivers for 7.2V battery packs that work well with cree XM-L leds and oter leds.
any idea which leds the original leds were?

I have no clue what emitters were there in the first place. If I took a picture, would you be able to tell?
 

undrwater

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I loaned the led module to a friend who is studying electronics to study and learn. In the meantime, what I'm interested in when this thing gets up and running (see the positive attitude??!! :)) is a beam that is about the same as a 10w HID with a nice tight beam. I'm guessing that one emmitter will be easier to focus than three. Am I correct in this?

The current reflector is 3cm in diameter, and 1.5 deep. I've seen some that are similar in shape / size. Do most people mod these to fit an application?

I'll be back with pictures of the module and the head with the magnetic switch.
 

undrwater

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Here's a shot of the head sans module. You can see the heat sink in a triangular pattern. Approximate outer diameter of the head is 4cm.

20120213_162300.jpg


Here is the magnetic switch mechanism:
20120213_162601.jpg


As you can see, it's a VERY compact head, which I like. I'll add the module as soon as I get my hands on it.
 

DIWdiver

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For that beam, an XM-L and aspheric lens should work quite well and should fit your head nicely. An HID can be focused tighter than an LED typically, because the emitting area is smaller, but I just tested my XM-L and Ahorton 28mm aspheric last night, and got a beam 9" wide at 61". Anything much tighter than that is going to look more like a lightsaber than a light :grin2:.

The front of the Ahorton aspheric (don't get anything but Ahorton's unless you need a different diameter) will be about 0.9" from the top of the LED dome for tightest focus. Move it closer for wider focus - 0.3" closer gets you a beam about 47" wide at 61", and the lens is nearly touching the LED. The lens location needs to be pretty accurate for best focus, so make sure you have the ability to tweak it. Also, the aspheric will need to be in air on both sides, so you need an additional lens (a flat plate is good) in front of it.

We've gotten to the point where you get more light out of a good 10W LED than a 10W HID, but the CRI isn't as good and heatsinking requires more thought. If you are doing photography and need the best colors, you might want a different solution, but it's hard to beat 1 LED, 1 lens, 1 driver for simplicity or to beat an XM-L for efficiency.
 

lucca brassi

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Nice swich mechanism on that Niterider head (sorry Cold Fusion ) .. I see some seat inside aluminium head (for PCB ? ) . Have PCB holes on LED place that can lead heat away to housing?
 

undrwater

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Thanks for the info on the lens. This is what I was having difficulty finding. Based on the photo above, do you think it will be possible to attach the XM-L directly to the heat sink? When I get the module back, it should be clear how deepoutdoors did it.

As far as photography is concerned, I only photograph for documentation, not for aesthetics, so it should be no problem. I currently use a 10w HID (Salvo), which has a nice tight beam when focused to do so, and is about as bright as I like. I'm hoping to get as close to this as possible. Once I find the source for the lens, I believe I will be ready to start the purchase process.
 

undrwater

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Nice swich mechanism on that Niterider head (sorry Cold Fusion ) .. I see some seat inside aluminium head (for PCB ? ) . Have PCB holes on LED place that can lead heat away to housing?

That's correct, the emitters sat directly on that aluminium. I'll have a photo soon showing that. Wondering if I will be able to do the same for a single emitter. Also wondering how I will take advantage of that magnet.

@DIWdiver: is this the lens you were speaking of?:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/glass-optics-for-flashlights-28mm-5297

It looks like it may be a tight fit with a flat lens in front. How much space do you suppose it requires?
 

b-bassett

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if i remember rightly the ahorton lens is 14 mm thick
and the base needs to be about 12 mm from the led base ( top of star)

so you'll need around 26-30mm from that heat sink to the outer (flat) lens
 

undrwater

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if i remember rightly the ahorton lens is 14 mm thick
and the base needs to be about 12 mm from the led base ( top of star)

so you'll need around 26-30mm from that heat sink to the outer (flat) lens

I don't have anywhere near that amount of space. I think I can JUST get 30mm if I get a small dremel tool in there and cut down the heat sink to the bottom. Do you all think that's practical? I really WANT this to work. I love the beam that I'm seeing in the pics.
 

b-bassett

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almost anything is possible, but not always practical. ;)

i thought that head looked a bit shallow, whats behind the heatsink? if its solid aluminium and you can mount the led direct to it, you should be able to do something.
the other problem will be the driver though, not sure if theres any room for it

can you take some more pics of the head, directly down the barrel would be helpfull. a sketch of the heads cross section would be even more usefull.
 
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