I've never seen the show....
But I was inspired to post a section from a site that makes and sells incendiary ammunition...apparently, for pistols, rifles and shotguns:
This ammo is manufactured by Northern Arizona Munitions (N.A.M.), which is a fully licensed and insured ammunition manufacturer. They have been manufacturing incendiary grade ammunition for 22 years. They manufacture the projectiles for this ammo from the ground up using custom made bullet jackets that are thin at the tip and thick at the base, so they will rip open easier upon impact with the target. The manufacturer has a limited amount of bullet jackets to make this ammo. This ammo has a chemical mixture that is very similar to the 50 cal. Raufoss and also has the sea green tip color. It contains Barium, Titanium Sponge, and Zirconium Sponge under the bullet jacket at the tip of the bullet. The Zirconium Sponge and bullet jacket is what separates this ammo from a regular Incendiary round. This ammo is designed to be shot into a hard target that will rip the bullet jacket open to expose the chemical mixture. Metal, concrete, and rocks will rip the jacket open the best to give you the optimum performance of this ammo. This ammo will give you twice the flash bang as regular Incendiary ammo. This ammo will burn at 5000 degrees at point of impact. Use EXTREME CAUTION, this ammo is highly flammable upon impact. This ammo is completely safe to shoot through your weapon.
First off, totally new here, so a big Hello
This is a great thread. It finally motivated me to contact Cottonpickers on the marketplace and ask him to build me a foldable solar charger set up. Should be ready in a week or two.
Now, to keep this thread on topic, you have to post at least one of your ZPAW Lights...
Looks to me like your charger needs 6V, 2-3A. The Nomad7/Guide10 kit can't supply that (although there are larger kits), both outputs (Nomad7 solar and Guide10 battery) are around 1 amp output max .... more HERE
Also a charger like that really needs a battery buffer (which is what the Guide 10 pack is). You need constant flow of energy or a passing cloud will cause the charger to shutdown and reboot.
For sheer durability sake I'm coming to the conclusion that Powerfilm has got it down in the thin film department with their waterproof rollable units. They've got a video showing a rollable hooked up to a multi-meter, measure volts and amperage, then shoot 6-7 rounds through it at about 15 yards and then hooked back up to the multimeter.
You can see the damage, looked like about 8-9 cells were compromised. The voltage was almost unchanged, slight loss of amperage.
They did mention that shooting holes in the unit would compromise it's waterproofness and might allow moisture to seep into the laminations. I'd think that you could use some good quality UV resistant flexible sealant to seal the holes though.
For the longest life and efficiency it still looks like high quality mono-crystalline silicon is best as long as you can keep from breaking them or shooting holes in them.
I'd carry a smaller mono-crystalline panel for Mad Max world or a bigger, lighter, flexible panel for through hiking and beach bumming.
The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.
The flexible ones will still wear out. Everything that bends will break eventually. In a "Mad Max world", your best bet would be to have lots of rechargeable batteries, charge them only when it's safe to bust out your equipment, and use candles when you don't NEED electric lighting.
I was holding out for 20 days on the paklite for an update, but here we are at 19... 456 hours, and ever so slightly starting to dim. You would never notice unless there was a control light for comparison, which I have. Still chugging along at a couple of lumens, 57 eight hour nights worth of illumination on the included Duracell 9v.
the Pak-lite rocks.
I love how there isn't anything to it, no body hardly, without it's host battery.
I'm definitely getting a couple of those and putting one in my kit without a battery and one for home with both of the batteries.
fyrstormer, I don't want to say too much before I've got something that works but I'm working on a project that will turn the whole light weight, durable, sustainable charging problem on it's head -at least for me. I'd of course love to turn it into a viable product but I'm not sure that it will be practical to produce for a fair price, either way I'll most likely test the waters with you fine people if it works out well for my own use, total Mad Max minus all the pig $#!+ and methane. Then will come the LiFePO4 compatible version...
And on a related note, I wanna make or see a LiFePO4 powered light where the battery and the led are basically matched together for lifespan, along with lifespan matched, reliable charger, matched switches, and if there were any question of it's lasting 50,000 hours then possibly a backup driver installed on board...
Instead of carrying multiple batteries for one light you'd carry a spare identical light, and each would be balanced to run for about 50,000 hours before appreciable efficiency loss.
With a 36Wh battery the light would weigh a bit over a pound with most of the weight being the battery, would contain about as much energy as carrying 1.25 lbs of Eneloops.
(actually it would weigh a bit more on top of that, because it would be a shame to make the battery tube of such a light out of a metal like aluminum that won't spring back after impact, spring tempered steel for the battery tube is a no brainer, 'cause it's almost bound to do some repetitive whacking over the years.)
Last edited by eh4; 02-28-2012 at 06:57 PM.
The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.
Many thanks all for the welcome and the great info! Will dig into it.
LOL, I certainly fat-fingered that one; "Pile" instead of "Pila"
Sorry for the detour.
I've got another 133 hours (as of right now) until spec runtime is met... We'll see about the Ultralast. I'm thinking if the good folks at pak-lite were on the money about alkaline runtime, I may just take their word about the Lithiums.
Last edited by scout24; 02-29-2012 at 03:45 AM.
Zebralight SC80 - cr123, AA, small, reliable and can switch on in low. Good run times, easily available cells, rechargables can be topped up by car charger or solar charger.
Whats needed for "walking dead" is a stronger female lead. How 'bout Ellen Ripley from the "Alien" movies. In fact, add the aliens too. Then let the zombies and the aliens duke it out, now that would be worth watching!
^G When I reply, threads die....
BTW - Is there a way to cast a light upon the problem that if zombies eat the brains of their victims, the victims would not become zombies...and the only source of new zombies would be the people who got away wounded?
And if they are rotting anyway, does eating help them at all?
Do they just continue to rot over time, slowly decomposing until they are just skeletons? Once they are devoid of muscle tissue, do they still move?
I grew up with Alien and Aliens, the Walking Dead barely elicit any increased pulse rate, I could nap through it mostly aside from the gross out factor.
28 Days Later, now that's a pretty damn good zombie movie, Shaun Of The Dead I enjoyed as well.
Now as for 28 Weeks Later... meh, they should have left it alone, same with Aliens 3 and 4... meh and meh again.
Just my opinion.
As for Zombie Apocalypse lights, I still want a wind up spring fed ribbon of magnesium light... that would be bright, especially with a nice hard chromed reflector. Plus you can light your Molatovs with it.
The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.
It looks all Franken-light now because it is (prototype) But I built me a self contained solar powered Joule Thief Zombie Light...
I'm going to detail the build over in my JT thread, but it's self contained and the solar panel both charges the light and acts as a photo resistor (light goes on at dark). I plan on making the final charging connection into the light a USB port so I can easily deploy the solar panel where I need to.
It's basically a garden light circuit with a traditional JT powering the LED.. and if you Google "evil mad scientist solar" you'll see where I got the circuit and parts list from.. This circuit is cool because there's even a 1N914 diode that prevent bleed back to the solar panel!! That means it's super easy to take a part of this circuit and build a AA trickle charger, total cost way less than 10 bucks for everything!!
Last edited by Darvis; 03-02-2012 at 05:20 PM.
Thanks guys, it was super easy to build and I'm definitely going to show how I did it in the homemade section.
Run4jc- I know you're tinkering with building JTs yourself, this charging part is literally just an add on circuit to the JT- it's four more parts: The solar panel, the 914 diode, another transistor (a 3906) and resistor (EMS calls for a 5k, but used a 1K) The four parts cost less than 3 bucks!!!
Wait until you see my circuit board, it's a hack!! I'm almost embarrassed to show it it's so poorly done... just a by-product of being a rote amateur solder dude; but goes to show that free lumens and long running zombie lights can be easily attained.
Paklite 552 hours and chugging happily along No drop in output since the little blip previously mentioned. 600 in our sights!