Gruesome Walking Dead Zombie Merge Horror. Which flashlight would you EDC?

[scout24]

Low lumen is in the eye of the beholder. On low, this will tailstand on my wife's armoire, and ceiling-bounce enough light to be more than enough to navigate in the dark, find books and magazines by title, locate other items on the mess that is my dresser, find clothes in drawers, you get the idea. I bought two, and a box of 10 lithium 9v cells... Even 600 hours on a Duracell, if it proves true, gives me two hours a night for 10 months, or 75 nights of 8 hours a night as a nightlight in my kid's bathroom? No-brainer, IMHO, even if some think they're a bit overpriced for what they are.

[eh4]

Yeah, they are selling batteries... I'd love order a bulk box for friends and family without the batteries, I'm not optimistic that I'd be able to, or that the price drop would be commensurate.

[reppans]

Low lumen is in the eye of the beholder. On low, this will tailstand on my wife's armoire, and ceiling-bounce enough light to be more than enough to navigate in the dark, find books and magazines by title, locate other items on the mess that is my dresser, find clothes in drawers, you get the idea. I bought two, and a box of 10 lithium 9v cells... Even 600 hours on a Duracell, if it proves true, gives me two hours a night for 10 months, or 75 nights of 8 hours a night as a nightlight in my kid's bathroom? No-brainer, IMHO, even if some think they're a bit overpriced for what they are.

Interesting... what kinda PAW do you foresee?? I'm mean you have multiple great solar charging set-ups and you're still stocking up on 6k hrs of light?

I'm a huge fan low lumens and massive runtimes too.... how about the moonlight modes from 4/7s and Zebralight? 400-500 hrs per 1xAA Duracell, with of course the option of much higher modes (perhaps the Zombs are light sensitive ).?

(Btw, got the both the Powerfilm and Goal Zero outside. Kinda shocked, but the GZ, which significantly lagged behind the PF in through-the-window charging, left the PF equally behind in direct sunlight. I still think the PF wins in Mah/Lbs though, but they're both great chargers for different purposes).

[scout24]

Good deal on the updates on the goal 0 and powerfilm. ZPAW not withstanding, I just like the idea of the paklite runtimes. I don't own any 9v RCR's, but may have to look into that... I like the set-and- forget factor, if my stepdaughter lets one run during a power outage, I won't worry about having to replace cells. I've got a decent stash of primaries for everything else I own, the lithium 9v's just seemed prudent.

[eh4]

Word to the wise,
if you want to make some sort of ultimate energy harvesting vampire light for a "zombie apocalypse", could I please direct your attention to this Item: LVBoost found at online merchant dimensionengineering.com ...
I just got my units today and put them through their paces, this is the best Plug and Play Joule Thief that you could ask for... .5v-5v input, 2.2v-5v output, 1.5Amp max input and output... if you don't know much about electronics but have a 10$ breadboard and a multimeter and want to make your own "any battery" flashlight, look no further...
I'm very excited, I was afraid when I ordered the thing that the worm gear screw output voltage adjustment would be a fixed relationship to the input voltage, no fear, I have now tested this little 3gram bit of gear and it holds 3.3v steady at either 1.5v or 3v, I'll try 4.5v later but I've already run a red led at 2.2v with both 1.5v and 3v and it held steady at 2.2v as set, your set output is your set output, not dependent on input voltage...
The device trades amperage for voltage at 85-92% efficiency.

Word to the wise (again) no need to wait for someone to make your uber Mad Max light... plunk down 20$ and see what you can do with some strips of zinc and copper, a couple potatoes (or a cup of pee) and a nice Cree. ;-)
Check it out.


BTW, sorry if I hijacked the thread for a minute, but I do see this as the epitome of Zombie lighting... to be able to salvage lumens from just about any power source.

[Outdoorsman5]

To the OP: Just in case you didn't know this.....

[tjswarbrick]

1xAA - Jetbeam E3S: Basic two-mode light, runs on the most common battery on earth

You forgot to mention that it's Satinless Steel, and still rather thick, so it's likely nigh on indestructible.

I forgot to add this one to my list above.

I used mine to pound an oversize pex sleeve into a P60 host by sandwiching the bodies between a work bench and a 2/4, and smacking repeatedly, very hard, with a hammer.
(It was the only thing in my garage harder than the sleeve, larger than its ID, and smaller than its OD.) Worked like a charm, and you can't even tell.

[WebHobbit]

tjswarbrick - what was the reason you needed PEX tubing in a P60 host? Just curious about THAT project!

[tjswarbrick]

tjswarbrick - what was the reason you needed PEX tubing in a P60 host? Just curious about THAT project!

OT:
Except for Eneloops in some EDC's, I only run lithium primaries. My host was for an 18650, and a little oversize at that. My 123's rattled pretty badly. I picked up Eagletac's CR123/18650 adapter magazine, and even THAT was loose. I was hesitant to spring for Oveready's delrin one when "I could do it myself for less."
I bought a 3/4" delrin rod, and machined it down to size on a makeshift (hand drill) lathe. THEN I tried to drill it out. Needless to say, things didn't go as planned, and my $2 piece of delrin was now a useless, partially molten, pile of plastic.
Back to the drawing board - at the local big-box store, I found a CR123 was a perfect fit in (5/8 ID I think) PEX tubing. Again the OD was a bit large, but I had already proven myself able to overcome that. Cut to rough, and worked it down. Tested it, and it seemed okay. Removed from fixture, trimmed to required length, and discovered only the ends and part of the length were small enough to go. I tried to whittle it down more, but my fixture wasn't really reusable, and I didn't want to damage what I had worked so hard on. So, I knew what to do. If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer...
Anyway, it was a fun project (my wife thought I was nuts. Still does, I suppose.) This is the same light I on which I scalloped the tail myself, and installed my first NB drop-in. And replaced my first bezel. It's the closest thing I have to a custom, built by me. I learned a few things, and my CR123's are so tight I need to shake them out. I'm glad I did it, but next time, I'm buying one of the pre-made jobbies. (I put the ET mag in a different hose which wasn't quite so oversize - my little project wouldn't fit in that one at all.)

[WebHobbit]

Thanks for that! I always wondered if 123s would rattle in a SolarForce host! I suspected they would. I guess they probably would in a Malkoff MD2 as well? I know that's the other end of the quality/cost spectrum but they are made for larger cells too.

[reppans]

Got a chance to take some pix my Zombie lighting kit.

I'm an ultra-light type and have chosen my kit for the maximum possible runtimes in the smallest, lightest carry sizes. The Quark AA and Zebralight H51w lead the way for their 300+hr moonlights (unbeatable in 1xAA), yet with enough light for me to do almost anything I need to. They're also my general purpose EDC lights. The AA^2 tube is my spare batt container and will give the Quark 1+1=3 runtime boost, in addition to a higher max, of course. The Preon Revo is my EDC back-up key chain light, also having one of the longest runtimes in a AAA. There's around 1000-1500 hours of useable light, just contained in the 4 tubes below.



The bottom half of the pix is for my PZAW BOB, and weighs in @ 10 oz. w/o batteries. The Powerfilm solar charger will fully charge 4 Eneloops a day in good sunlight, definitely more than I need for the lights, but all my other portable electronics are AA-based (Garmin GPS, iPhone Charger, Steripen UV purifier, Radio, Walkie-talkies, cameras, etc.)

The Goal Zero will be the bug-in or extended BOB charger, and will cut charge times in half from the Powerfilm, but is also about 3x the size and weight. The Goal Zero, however, will handle 12V charging and will even charge an iPad (tested).

[cland72]

Got a chance to take some pix my Zombie lighting kit.

I'm an ultra-light type and have chosen my kit for the maximum possible runtimes in the smallest, lightest carry sizes. The Quark AA and Zebralight H51w lead the way for their 300+hr moonlights (unbeatable in 1xAA), yet with enough light for me to do almost anything I need to. They're also my general purpose EDC lights. The AA^2 tube is my spare batt container and will give the Quark 1+1=3 runtime boost, in addition to a higher max, of course. The Preon Revo is my EDC back-up key chain light, also having one of the longest runtimes in a AAA. There's around 1000-1500 hours of useable light, just contained in the 4 tubes below.



The bottom half of the pix is for my PZAW BOB, and weighs in @ 10 oz. w/o batteries. The Powerfilm solar charger will fully charge 4 Eneloops a day in good sunlight, definitely more than I need for the lights, but all my other portable electronics are AA-based (Garmin GPS, iPhone Charger, Steripen UV purifier, Radio, Walkie-talkies, cameras, etc.)

The Goal Zero will be the bug-in or extended BOB charger, and will cut charge times in half from the Powerfilm, but is also about 3x the size and weight. The Goal Zero, however, will handle 12V charging and will even charge an iPad (tested).

Very nice!

[eh4]

Very nice reppans,
That is super fine and simple. With just two of those lights, maybe 6+ eneloops and the powerfilm you could realistically have light capabilities of 5+ years without resupply... much longer if things lasted well. I am thinking that the Eneloops will keep for longer than expected if kept cool.
I'd want duplicates of the solar and the charging circuitry for sure to have some kind of reasonable expectations of keeping things running of course.

[reppans]

Thanks for the kudos folks, much appreciated .

Anyone have any suggestions for another 1xAA that I could add to the portfolio? The cost of the McGizmo's are too much, but I'm pretty open otherwise. I'd really like something similar to the Quark and Zebralight in terms of the low-end:

- moonlight + another low single digit lumen (ie, <5)
- several hundred hours runtimes
- 3+ modes below 40 lumens

Any other manufacturer produce a light like that?

(I know ThruNite comes somewhat close, but not really any count.)

[Tommygun45]

After 2 years of reading this site, this thread first let me know that my M61LL could take 2 Eneloop AAs. Very excited. Anyways, was watching the most recent episode tonight and saw a flashlight that she had in the car when it flipped. Here is the pic. Anyone know what it is? Looks a bit different when she uses it to stab him in the face. No crenelated bezel at least.

[NeonLights]

After 2 years of reading this site, this thread first let me know that my M61LL could take 2 Eneloop AAs. Very excited. Anyways, was watching the most recent episode tonight and saw a flashlight that she had in the car when it flipped. Here is the pic. Anyone know what it is? Looks a bit different when she uses it to stab him in the face. No crenelated bezel at least.

LOL, sorry to break it to you, that isn't a flashlight, that is a column mounted automatic transmission gearshift lever from the Ford Taurus Lori wrecked. She broke it off and stabbed the walker in its eye with it.

Edit: I went back and watched the scene again in slow motion, and it looks like it is probably the wiper/turn signal stalk, also mounted on the steering column.

[reppans]

^^ I thought she pulled a screwdriver off the floor. Pretty unrealistic to waste a good flashlight on a Zombie, esp. in the PAW.

[Tommygun45]

Thanks God. I thought it was an awful use. The cut scene was clearly light in hand-stabbing zombie in the face. It certainly didn't look like a flashlight insertion however. Good. Ford Taurus drive shaft. Accepted.

[eh4]

Another Quark would give you a chance to build a working light if both failed.

The Zebralight SC80 weighs over 1/3 more than an H51 but it will take AA and CR123, more impressive than that though is that the light has a working voltage range of .7-4.2v AND all of the working parts of the light are in the removable head.

I haven't found any other lights that are made to work at such a wide Low working range, many Frankenstein possibilities with a threaded adapter or even something of lower quality cobbled together, (a carved wooden plug with a hole drilled in the middle, a slot in the side and an old lamp cord for instance) -it is Zombie Apocalypse after all.
Once cabled for power you could mount it to a hardhat, a bicycle, a pig spear, whatever and feed it any 2 alkalines/Nmh or single Lithiums...

Add one of cottonpicker's lithium minichargers and you could wander through town looking for abandoned laptops in coffee shops and offices, crack them open for the 18650s and charge them with solar... If the powerfilm won't give enough voltage to charge Li-on you could crack open the case and add a little boost converter like the 3 gram LVBoost.
-that capability would probably add another 15 grams or so, between the booster and the charger. ;-)

[gpturner]

Great Thread! My sugestion os a good head lamp to keep both hands free one for your machette and the other to lock the door :-)

[T45]

What I learned from this thread: the Quark AA XM-L version does not the have the much maligned "pre-flash" on moon light mode, A Malkoff M61LL will run on 2 AA, eneloops to be exact, for more than 10 hours, incendiary shotgun shells are now available, if not on sale, and that someone, somewhere has a red and blue pump shotgun, and finally, maybe I should start watching this "Walking Dead" show everyone keeps talking about.

[run4jc]

(I know ThruNite comes somewhat close, but not really any count.)

Interesting comment. What do you base your comment on? As one who has owned more lights than I care to remember (including McGizmos, Mac's, Milky mods, Spies, Oveready, Surefire, Malkoff, Quark, Zebralight, Olight, Jetbeam, Sunwayman, on and on.... you get the picture), I don't agree with the comment about ThruNite. True, they are not 'high end' lights, but they have clearly listened to the requests of many CPF members and have produced some really useful, low priced lights. I've had a Ti Firefly on my keychain now for quite a while - same battery - it always works. I just recently received a T10, and I'm amazed at the initial quality for the price. Time will tell whether it will hold up, but the other nice thing is the price. At these prices, most owners can afford redundancy.

Perhaps you could try a Ti Firefly? It is AAA, not AA, but at only ~$16, it's not a huge investment, and it uses the second most common battery. Only 2 modes, but I find that the .09 lumen firefly mode and ~60 (I measure ~45 lumen in my sphere) it does a very nice job. I believe that there have been multiple tests and even a torture test, and they seem to come out fine. If you change your perception of the quality, you might invest ~$30 in the AA T10.

When I started this thread, it was about your "Zombie lights and why you chose them." Small, cheap AA or AAA powered lights, IMHO, should be a part of anyone's prep and redundancy is a good thing. I chose the ThruNites because they produce useful levels of light on common batteries, and are available at agreeable prices. I bought multiples because if (Heaven forbid) something bad ever does happen, I can share with friends and neighbors - heck, maybe even barter.

Oh, one other thing. I gave out 16 Ti Fireflies at Christmas to family and friends. Everyone loves them - everyone is using them - and not one has failed.

Just food for thought!

[reppans]

eh4 - I was looking a different light, well, just for a different EDC experience, but your point on another Quark for redundant parts and repair is spot on in the PAW. I'm personally not one to modify stuff, except for the lego-ability of 4Sevens stuff. No interest in going to another battery format as one of the most important uses of my flashlight, is the ability to cannibalize it's battery if I need it to charge my cellphone, for example.

gpturner - I'm a former headlamp guy (half dozen Petzls & Black Diamonds) - IMHO, they're all garbage compared these modern multi-mode LED lights - bulky, inefficient, fragile, and really annoying UIs. The ZL H series is considered a headlamp (I consider it a flashlight with a headband) but it really is the best of both worlds, without any significant disadvantages. As a camper, I strongly agree with the hands-free thing and I've come up a bunch of ways to hand-free my Quark, including really useful lantern modes, using just a business card and piece of string, both of which I EDC anyways. So both the Quark and ZL get equal use for hands-free camping. Happy do discuss the hands-free ideas if anyone's interested.

run4jc - I hear you on ThruNite's value, however, I'm not a very price sensitive shopper when it comes to lights. Here's what I mean that it doesn't quite meet any of my important criteria.

- I do like that ThruNite has the firefly, but am a little put off that it's about half the lumens AND half the runtime of the 4Sevens/ZL (happy to trading lumens FOR runtime though).
- The mode stepping is kind of sever to me. 95% of my "L/M/H" light usage is probably 0.2/4/19 lumens (50/35/10%, respectively).... I'm a big night vision fan that likes to always use the minimum amount of light to accomplish a given task. Something that ramps closer to 4x between modes (2x perceived) feels better to my eyes... especially in the lower end where your eyes are most sensitive.
- Warranty - in this mid-price range, build quality and reliability are always questionable. 4Sevens has the best warranty, and I understand pretty good CS. That tips me a lot from other lights in this range that might be considered somewhat better.

Having said all that, the Neutron 1A, pretty much the same as the Quark except runtimes and mode spacing, does appeal to me. It might worth trying if it had significantly better build quality than 4Sevens.... do you think it does?

[run4jc]

run4jc - I hear you on ThruNite's value, however, I'm not a very price sensitive shopper when it comes to lights. Here's what I mean that it doesn't quite meet any of my important criteria.

- I do like that ThruNite has the firefly, but am a little put off that it's about half the lumens AND half the runtime of the 4Sevens/ZL (happy to trading lumens FOR runtime though).
- The mode stepping is kind of sever to me. 95% of my "L/M/H" light usage is probably 0.2/4/19 lumens (50/35/10%, respectively).... I'm a big night vision fan that likes to always use the minimum amount of light to accomplish a given task. Something that ramps closer to 4x between modes (2x perceived) feels better to my eyes... especially in the lower end where your eyes are most sensitive.
- Warranty - in this mid-price range, build quality and reliability are always questionable. 4Sevens has the best warranty, and I understand pretty good CS. That tips me a lot from other lights in this range that might be considered somewhat better.

Having said all that, the Neutron 1A, pretty much the same as the Quark except runtimes and mode spacing, does appeal to me. It might worth trying if it had significantly better build quality than 4Sevens.... do you think it does?

If you look at the price of the lights I buy, clearly I don't shop based on price - as you indicate, it is value. If you are looking at, for instance, the T10, yes, it steps, but it also has memory. I use a 4/7 AA also, it it does NOT have memory and I have to step through the levels (if I understand your concern.) The T10 is about half the size of the 4/7 and, IMHO, has less to 'break' - no clicky, just a twist. As far as being significantly better, I don't really think so - about the same, although I prefer the knurling of the ThruNite.

One thing is for certain - 4/7 customer service is among the best, and that has to be taken into consideration! Right now I happen to be carrying the aforementioned Quark AA (with a 14500) and I do like it, but I don't like having to choose between turbo/strobe or having to step through levels. I prefer the smaller size of the ThruNite T10 and the twist/memory. As for the Ti and how it steps from low to high, that can be a pain, but I have modded one to firefly only (easy) and the other is on my key chain and I typically go straight to high anyway.

Sorry - I'm rambling. Back to the beginning comment - as one who has spent literally tens of thousands of dollars learning my way, I now find such satisfaction in these small, simple AA and AAA lights that are under $50!

[reppans]

...If you are looking at, for instance, the T10, yes, it steps, but it also has memory. I use a 4/7 AA also, it it does NOT have memory and I have to step through the levels (if I understand your concern.)....

Sorry, I should have said "mode spacing" not "stepping". I meant that going from 0.09 > 9 > 50 (or 100+) was a bit severe since my the Quarks 0.2 > 4 > 20 and ZL's 0.2 > 2 > 7 > 26 feels like really good spacing... for low lumen lover like me. Also, I actually prefer non-memory, since I always like to always use the lowest possible level for a given task - ie, turning off from medium means always having to cycle through high to get back to firefly.

Anyways this is too much of a highjack... appreciate your comments and it the endorsement has moved ThruNite well up the list for my next light... back to Zombie lights .

[scout24]

Back to yout regularly scheduled Zombie Light Thread... I realized a little while ago that the paklite crossed the 400 hour mark- 404 to be exact. No noticeable change in output! Running since 9 Feb. @ 6pm. I have to agree with the idea of value being where you find it- everyone has different needs and wants in lighting, as with everything else. I find edc value in my Haiku, but am certainly not above other solutions if they fill a need for me. Great times to be a Flashaholic! The T10 is a cool, fairly inexpensive, simple light with a very nice beam, and works for me. Ti Firefly same-same. So many good choices! T10 memory was what sold me, and I'm glad for the purchase. Paklite so far is awesome nightlight room flooder for me, may not work for you and your needs. AA and AAA lights have a definite place, and it's good to see different mfgrs. step up with more choices.

[angelofwar]

I just recently acquired the same goal zero set-up, and it's the best charger I have found yet. It's reliable, and will charge even under cloudy conditions (although it will take longer). I plan on getting another battery charging pack so I can use one and have the other charging.

Now that I got this, I can add my SF E2L-AA to my definite zombie light list. I have ~20 Duraloops, and a nice stash of new L91's (~20) that are good until 2025. I think I'm truly set now.

[valueknifelover]

and finally, maybe I should start watching this "Walking Dead" show everyone keeps talking about.

This is the realization that I have now come to as well. It's time that I give in.

[fyrstormer]

My Thrunite Ti just arrived today. Figured for $16, I might as well try one since I liked the basic design; better to make informed suggestions to others than uninformed suggestions, after all. Not a bad little light; I wish the difference between low and high were more significant, but it's not a tragedy that it isn't, I just have to be more careful when turning it on. The fact that it's a progressive-twisty alone is reason to appreciate it; I think any light that can generate >10lm should have multiple modes, unless durability is a paramount concern, and given the choice between progressive-twist vs. multiple-twist UIs, progressive-twist wins every single time.

I don't see it replacing my Muyshondt Aeon as my backup EDC, but I do see it replacing the LD01 that's been sitting in my camping kit. Combined with a tritium fob attached to the keyring hole, it might just be the perfect "crap, it's 3am and I'm lost in the woods" light. In fact, I think I'll go put it there right now.

- - -

Can I get some links to these nifty solar chargers you guys have?

[fyrstormer]

Except for Eneloops in some EDC's, I only run lithium primaries. My host was for an 18650, and a little oversize at that. My 123's rattled pretty badly. I picked up Eagletac's CR123/18650 adapter magazine, and even THAT was loose. I was hesitant to spring for Oveready's delrin one when "I could do it myself for less."
I bought a 3/4" delrin rod, and machined it down to size on a makeshift (hand drill) lathe. THEN I tried to drill it out. Needless to say, things didn't go as planned, and my $2 piece of delrin was now a useless, partially molten, pile of plastic.
Back to the drawing board - at the local big-box store, I found a CR123 was a perfect fit in (5/8 ID I think) PEX tubing. Again the OD was a bit large, but I had already proven myself able to overcome that. Cut to rough, and worked it down. Tested it, and it seemed okay. Removed from fixture, trimmed to required length, and discovered only the ends and part of the length were small enough to go. I tried to whittle it down more, but my fixture wasn't really reusable, and I didn't want to damage what I had worked so hard on. So, I knew what to do. If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer...

This isn't quite on-point, but I believe the basic concept still applies:





Next time, do what I do and wrap some clear tape around the loose 2x123-to-18650 adapter until it fits without rattling.