Philips 75w equivalent LED lamp, 1100 lumens

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The latest version of the Philips EnduraLED remote-phosphor lamp just showed up at our local "orange" home improvement store. This is the lamp with the three yellow plastic lenses. I picked one up and I'll be comparing it to the 800 lumen 60-watt equivalent version of this lamp. Paid $40 for it.

I've been waiting to hear if it has 18 LEDs in it or 24. With the larger heat sinking area I could also see them upping the current by about 20%.
 

PhotonWrangler

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Subscribed, I'm curious about your findings.

I've managed to pry up one of the yellow phosphor lenses and peeked underneath it. They're still using six rebel LEDs per lens for a total of 18. The layout appears to be identical to their previous 60-watt equivalent shown in this teardown report. I'm guessing they're pushing the LEDs a little harder. I plugged it in with the lens partially pried up and those blue LEDs are intensely bright!

More details to come.
 

Steve K

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any signs that the heatsinking was increased/improved in order to accomodate the increased light output?

Steve K.
 

blasterman

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Prior ones got too hot to touch as I recall, so this is a good thing.

Still curious why they're using so many rebels at low current -vs- fewer ones at higher current and what the configuration solves from an engineering standpoint. Can't gain that much efficiency I would think, but there has to be a reason. Obviously using so many Rebels doesn't increase the price - it is a Phillips bulb BTW :)
 

PhotonWrangler

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I'm thinking that using multiple smaller LEDs helps to tailor the beam pattern as well as guarding against catastrophic failure of a single large LED. In this sense it's engineered like an LED traffic light - a single LED failure won't render the device useless.
 

blasterman

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Mmm.....maybe. Still, my experience with power LEDs is that they simply don't die unless the power supply goes bad or they are given pretty severe mechanical shock, and in this case it would nerf all the other LEDs. I don't think redundancy is the issue here.

Maybe it has something to do with power. Bunches of LEDs would allow for a much higher forward voltage and smaller total current loads. That makes for a simplier and less complex driver, but would require the expense of more LEDs, which obviously aren't an issue because it's nit like Philips is buying Crees.

Curious if PhotonWranger can make any sense of this with the bulb open. Anyway to determine how the arrays of LEDs are wired; number in series, etc.
 

PhotonWrangler

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Curious if PhotonWranger can make any sense of this with the bulb open. Anyway to determine how the arrays of LEDs are wired; number in series, etc.

I haven't been able to pry the lens all the way off yet for fear of breaking the hinges off. However if you look at the 6th photo in EDN's teardown report you'll see that each cluster of 6 LEDs is wired in series. Beyond that I don't know if the three clusters are in series or parallel with each other. If I can manage to get it apart without destroying it I'll let you know.
 

patrickhuang

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The body of the lamp is longer and it's noticeably heavier, so I believe there is more heatsinking.

Nice information!
How is the temperature of heat sink and remote cover ?
are PCB boards still ceramic ?
I think maybe the Rebel were over drive to get more light output.
 

Vesper

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Thanks for this info and the nice pics. I was staring at these today at the local orange wondering about them. Sounds like they're dialing in the heat sinking - good news.
 

patrickhuang

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Here are a couple of quick comparison photos that I took tonight. The 17W bulb is visibly brighter than the 12W one. Temperature of the lenses on both bulbs was subjectively the same (my IR thermometer is broken) but the neck of the 17W bulb was slightly cooler than the 12W, indicating a significant improvement in thermal management.
Could you please take a photo about the LEDs?
 

PhotonWrangler

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Could you please take a photo about the LEDs?

If I can get the lens popped off I will take some pictures of the LEDs inside. So far I've only been able to pry it up a little bit for a quick peek. They look just like the Rebels shown in the EDN teardown report mentioned earlier in this thread.
 
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Here are a couple of quick comparison photos that I took tonight. The 17W bulb is visibly brighter than the 12W one. Temperature of the lenses on both bulbs was subjectively the same (my IR thermometer is broken) but the neck of the 17W bulb was slightly cooler than the 12W, indicating a significant improvement in thermal management.

Or that the heat isn't getting out fast enough and instead rising around the dies themselves.

I'm assuming you had this on about steady state 1hour ish? (Sorry, please don't read active dispute tone in this note- just stating the old issues).
 

Theatre Booth Guy

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This thread gave me an idea to try one of these with the yellow covers removed as an anti SAD light. I had read in a few places that blue light is supposed to work best. Tonight, I got the bulb prepped and tomorrow, I'll plug it in and see if it makes me any happier :)
 
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This thread gave me an idea to try one of these with the yellow covers removed as an anti SAD light. I had read in a few places that blue light is supposed to work best. Tonight, I got the bulb prepped and tomorrow, I'll plug it in and see if it makes me any happier :)

DO NOT look at the dies. They can cause problems with your vision- so use it in a bounced configuration.
 

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