To their credit the shipping is fast.
New toys have arrived...
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That's the stuff I mean. C'mon your logo is crooked and not sharp, and scratched off some places. The packing, extras (love the holster actually) but the attention to detail on the light itself...
Ok I have to get back to work first and stop being distracted...
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@Jorn, I have tried many pastes, cigarette ashes(worked good but messy), and different oils, they all have worn the threads evenly, and not concentrated on the load bearing side of the Ti threads. Another point to this reasoning is that Four Sevens uses square threads and not standard threads. The different pastes oils and rubs work very well with standard threads, but their caracteristics of how they work are better suited for standard threads, as they tend to cause square threads to be smooth, they have caused threads to be looser in the Four Sevens lights I have tried them on.
The minis got normal, non square threads.
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Actually I'm much happier about these ones. Will post later.
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My normal "lego type" quarks got square threads. My mini's, and preon's, got normal threads. You would have to work really hard to wear out ti with rubbig. Even with the fast-cut rubbig we use at work. It will only smooth out microscopic imperfections where the threads meet. Threads are still sharp, but smooth where they need to be.
Do you do both mating surfaces push and pull? Do you clean the threads totally after you use the rubbig? I have noticed that the oil on my Ti's gets grungy and metal colored after a weeks use, and needs to be cleaned. I beleive that rubbig is doing a one shot polish, and would like to know if yours get grungy and metal colored, or do they stay clean?
Yes.Do you do both mating surfaces push and pull?
I clean it several times during the"one hour grind", and re apply a tiny amount of fresh rubbing everytime. You dont want excess paste to work it's way up and make a big mess on the driverboard. When done, i cleen it 100%, and lube it. The lube still gets metal colored, but since the contact surface is smoother, it wears less. I clean it 3-4 times a year.Do you clean the threads totally after you use the rubbig? I have noticed that the oil on my Ti's gets grungy and metal colored after a weeks use, and needs to be cleaned. I beleive that rubbig is doing a one shot polish, and would like to know if yours get grungy and metal colored, or do they stay clean?
My Turbo X has 2 distinct black dots in the center of the beam on the wall, but I figure in outdoor use they're irrelevant. Sounds like yours a lot worse--
Got my NW AA^2 X Tactical today.... my sample seems just great, centered emitter, zero blemishes. Looks and works great.
Have you done any tests as to run times on the T 10? I find the low mode 9 lumens, 39hrs difficult to believe. I have been running some unscientific run time tests on my lights, and the Quark Mini AA on the mid mode, 25 lumens, runs less than 5 hours instead of the 18 hours claimed. I consider that when the light is putting out less than one lumen then it is finished. I estimate that by comparing withthe Thrunite Ti, and Fenix LD01. Not especially accurate, but is some measure of what I think is useful to me.
Other lights greatly miss the mark of the advertised.
I'm glad I found this thread....I was going to order a preon 2 but now I'm not so sure. I think I'll do a little more homework.
Thanks to all for posting your comments.
After reading every post maybe 4Sevens should have spent more on quality than branding and a new logo.
the Quarks are especially outstanding for:
+ excellent constant brightness regulation and efficiency (only to be topped by ZL)
+ that is, also runtimes
+ lego-ability (is fun!)
+ choice between two UI's (regular vs. tactical),
+ very good switch, pocket clip, light-weight (thin aluminum walls), competitive brightness
+ huge 4sevens community with countless (useless) user reviews (youtube, cpf) -- you become one of the supporters and proud owners, part of the community!
+ quarks recommended by nutsnfancy
+ quark accessories available
+ reported longevity and 10yrs warranty
no matter what we've been criticizing in this thread, the 4sevens quarks are well worth the money (even with greenish tint and sloppy thin threads which wear down fast because they are bare and soft) at this price point.
Dont feed the trolls.
©2012 Got Lumens?
I did some tests on several AAA EDC lights today. Most were disappointing. I am going to try to make sense of my notes, and I'll post what I can figure out.
I am not sure what is meant by the figures provided by the manufacturers. Obviously there is a great drop during their times. I do not have any way to determine when the output reaches various points so I just wait until it looks like a significant change, and compare it with other lights like the Fenix E01 and Arc.
Well, as the OP I thought it might be time to wrap this up.
I've now got a couple of their lights and here is the basic concluding points in no particular order:
1. Too much detail on packaging, not enough on product (see engraving example).
2. 4Sevens Ti lights have horribly squeaky threads, they are NOT square type. Think nails on chalkboard. <-- catalyst for this thread.
3. High CRI is nice. 4Sevens makes entry into there "affordable".
4. I like High CRI (now).
5. Liking the Preon 1 High CRI. Several days clipped in pocket it's very unobtrusive, smooth. Engraving is still bad.
6. If I could swap the High CRI from the Preon 1 into the Fenix LD01 SS or even alum body, I would.
7. If the Quark 123 didn't have square threads, I'd be hard pressed to sell it over a Romisen or other "budget light" (barring low lumens).
8. Preon 2 Ti tail button needs work to get "unsticky" compared to the standard alum Preon 2.
9. Don't like the included lanyard as it uses a metal spring clip. I'm partial to using rope lanyards without scratchy metal bits.
10. 4Sevens > xxxxxFire, but not by too much. It's harsh, I know. They've got everything else right (modes, warm LED, included battery, etc) now they just need to elevate the build quality and attention to detail... more so the latter point.
Last edited by Ualnosaj; 03-02-2012 at 11:08 PM.
Just finished a video describing how to seat and mesh titanium threaded flashlights.
Started a new thread, as Ualnosaj wants this one to stay on topic and finish.
At a request, I removed the o-ring from the Quark AA Ti and Mini 123 Ti. There is a lot of lateral play with the o-ring removed (not quite so much in the normal Quark 123). In contrast, there is minimal play with the o-ring removed in several Fenix and Jetbeam I have on hand.
After living with these lights for some time, I have to stand by my comment about the Quark's lack of attention to detail. Note, this is based on ownership and use of:
Mini 123 Ti Cool
AA Ti Cool
123 High CRI
Black Preon 2 High CRI
Satin Ti Preon 1 High CRI
Satin Ti Preon 2 Cool
Polished Ti Preon 1 Cool
Black Preon 1 High CRI
Black/Ti Preon 2 Cool
I have taken a liking to the Preon series being the sleek small baseball bat that they are. The Satin Ti Preon 1 High CRI has a perma place in the front pocket now. It's small enough that I do forget it's there. I'm sure though if the Fenix LD10 SS was high CRI, it would oust the Preon but the latter would still have an advantage of having a perma clip.
My house EDC for a while was the RRT-0 high CRI but after using the Preon 2 high CRI form factor, I don't know what to say. The Preon's might not have the throw but the super wide angle spill is excellent for home.
We'll, that's the end of my 2 cents there.
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I like the Quarks for what they are, a medium quality light (far better quality than what my local brick&mortar stores carry)
That have a beautiful beam, great tint choices, I like Lego, and well thought out modes.
I own 7 of there lights and they all work fine.
I appreciate the good info in this thread, now I know how to smooth out my Preon1 Ti threads
I'm glad I found CPF, I was beginning to think I was strange
I'm a Canadian and a proud Flashaholic
Thanks CPF, thanks Think2x