Copper 26650 - Interest - $498 ea with 3+ buyers

[dlmorgan999]

Beautiful light and photographs my friend.

Try unscrewing the tailcap and connecting a wire between the negative end of the battery and the body of the light to see if it lights up.

If it does light up like that then there is a contact issue with the tailcap or a faulty McClicky.

I take it that you've tested that the 26650 is charged up and working?

Thanks for the compliment on the pictures Daniel. And it does light up just fine when I use a wire as you suggested. What do you suggest Chris?

[easilyled]

Have you another tailcap that you can swap to test? (or any spare McClicky switches)

[dlmorgan999]

It looks like the switch is faulty. I just did some testing with my DMM. The switch on the BB version works as expected, but I get no continuity with the copper version.

[dlmorgan999]

I also took the tailcap from the BB light and it worked fine on the copper light. Good idea Daniel - I don't know why didn't think of that!

[easilyled]

It looks like the switch is faulty. I just did some testing with my DMM. The switch on the BB version works as expected, but I get no continuity with the copper version.

Best thing then is to remove the McClicky and put another one in and see if that works.
(just unscrew the retaining ring with some needlenose pliers then unscrew the McClicky and screw another one in and the retaining ring back)

[TnC_Products]

Hello dlmorgan999, Sorry it seems you got a defective switch. I don't test the Mcclicky switches when I put them in the lights. Since they are new I just assume they are working when I receive them. I will send you another switch for the light.

Sometimes you can just unscrew the retaining ring a little and tighten back up and it will work. This has worked for me in the past. Unless you checked the switch with a meter and found it non functional.

Chris

[dlmorgan999]

No worries Chris. Thanks though as I don't have any spare ones lying around.

-- Dave

[fyrstormer]

That copper V3 head looks marvelous.

[dlmorgan999]

Hello dlmorgan999, Sorry it seems you got a defective switch. I don't test the Mcclicky switches when I put them in the lights. Since they are new I just assume they are working when I receive them. I will send you another switch for the light.

Sometimes you can just unscrew the retaining ring a little and tighten back up and it will work. This has worked for me in the past. Unless you checked the switch with a meter and found it non functional.

Chris

I was able to take out and re-install the switch tonight. When it was out I measured no continuity. Just for the heck of it I put it back in and it worked sometimes.

It's still acting funny (not always wanting to turn on, not always changing levels with a soft press, etc). Plus when I turn it on the switch doesn't feel quite right. I think I new switch will have everything working happily again.

-- Dave

[Dr Evil]

So I finally got around to taking some pictures. I decided to give mine a polish to see how it looks. It's got some bling to it now. I just posted the thumbnails for a low bandwidth user friendly post.

Fully assembled


Two battery tubes and end cap. The left tube is what the whole thing looked like when I got it. The end cap is before polishing. The other tube is after polishing.

[dlmorgan999]

Very nice Doc! Is the second tube for an 18350 battery?

[Dr Evil]

Thanks!

It's for a 26650 too. I want to get a D36 head and will use the extension with that. Granted I'll probably have to use a dummy 26650.

What grease did you use on your light? I have some Nyogel but haven't had much luck trying to find out if others have used it without problems.

[dlmorgan999]

Being a relatively new flashaholic, I haven't yet done anything with grease on any of my lights. From what little research I have done though, it seems like Nyogel is a good way to go.

Your pictures inspired me and so I just spent 10 minutes polishing my copper beauty back to new from the factory condition.

[fyrstormer]

For copper-on-copper (or brass-on-brass, or aluminum-on-aluminum, or steel-on-steel), try CRC lithium wheel bearing grease. It's basically plain synthetic oil mixed with lithium soap as a thickener, and a tiny amount of molybdenum di-sulfide (FAR less than my TiTi Twister lube) to prevent galling. Galling shouldn't be an issue with copper anyway, but I like to have the extra reassurance, and the texture is better than white lithium grease which doesn't have the MoS2 in it. The stuff is available on Amazon in a 14oz tub that will last the rest of your life.

[TnC_Products]

I have two Copper housings available. They are the 18350 versions.. Which means 26650 Diameter but are shorter since they use 18350 cells instead. There are only two and I don't think I will be making them again.

One has Max trit slots. (8-Head and 6-Tail)
The other has 6 trit slots in the tail.

[dlmorgan999]

I was trying out some different polish on my light and I couldn't resist taking a picture. It needs a bit of finer detailing in the nooks 'n crannies, but it's still looking pretty good.