K&M Camera
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 31 to 55 of 55

Thread: First post in this section

  1. #31
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
    Is that Aeon anodized or DLC'ed?
    Good eye to ID the Aeon. It is HAIII, one of the first ones sold.

    any more and it's too much to carry for a desk jockey like me :-(
    LOL

    I wear Carhartt bibs every day as they have more pockets than any other clothing & wear like iron. For the work I do function is everything ... and they're really comfortable. Not sure that you have those in Brisbane so here's a link.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  2. #32
    Flashaholic* Mattaus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,761

    Default Re: First post in this section

    I have to wear suit pants, a business shirt and a smile every day. Some times even a tie.

  3. #33
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by Mattaus View Post
    I have to wear suit pants, a business shirt and a smile every day. Some times even a tie.
    Exactly how I dressed for work for decades. Ironic that $75 USD seems like a lot for bibs when $1000 for a suit seemed like nothing. The bibs last a lot longer
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  4. #34
    Flashaholic* Mattaus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,761

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by precisionworks View Post
    Exactly how I dressed for work for decades. Ironic that $75 USD seems like a lot for bibs when $1000 for a suit seemed like nothing. The bibs last a lot longer
    I wonder if my boss will notice if I start wearing bibs to work? I can never have too many pens and note pads on me...

  5. #35
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Northern VA, USA
    Posts
    5,855

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by precisionworks View Post
    Good eye to ID the Aeon. It is HAIII, one of the first ones sold.
    I carry the Ti version with me every day. I even posted a "one year later" thread a while back, comparing the Ti Aeon I'd carried for a year to the Ti Aeon I'd just bought as a spare. Great little light.

    How does the HA3 version hold up to scraping against your other tools? I've only ever seen one light with truly indestructible anodizing, and that was the Arc AAA-P.

  6. #36
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
    ... How does the HA3 version hold up to scraping against your other tools? I've only ever seen one light with truly indestructible anodizing, and that was the Arc AAA-P.
    My HA3 Aeon is a "pocket queen" since she stays by herself in the watch pocket of the Carhartt bibs. Only one ding, caused by a four foot (1.2m) drop onto concrete while looking under a semi truck. Disregard that ding and the light is mint but she's been treated pretty well.
    Last edited by precisionworks; 03-21-2012 at 09:17 PM.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  7. #37
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    france
    Posts
    318

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Hello Precisionwork,

    Have you thought having a Ti switches production?
    Not necessarely slotted..

  8. #38
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by aflashinthenight View Post
    Hello PrecisionWorks,

    Have you thought having a Ti switches production?
    Not necessarely slotted..
    I'm interested in bringing out anything that people want, titanium especially. The challenge right now (on the Rotor E-body project) is finding a shop that will run small quantities. I could retire if I had $10 USD for every phone call & email that's been made for that.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  9. #39
    *Flashaholic* nbp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,621

    Default

    Barry, I have a couple of the 32 mm Ti McG rings on the way from the Shoppe along with some more mini McG gate clips. Unfortunately they were out of the Ti gate clips. May not need it on the ring anyways, we'll see. Anyways, I read that these Ti rings are more easily deformed than steel. How did you get it over the thick edge of the Keyton without over flexing it? I'd like to put a Ti Pest on it with a Ti Mako, but I'm concerned about deforming the ring. Any suggestions? Thanks bro.
    McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review Malkoff MDC Review MY LIGHTS McGizmo: Get It, Use It, Love It, DoNotDelete It.

  10. #40
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by nbp View Post
    Barry, I have a couple of the 32 mm Ti McG rings on the way from the Shoppe along with some more mini McG gate clips. Unfortunately they were out of the Ti gate clips. May not need it on the ring anyways, we'll see. Anyways, I read that these Ti rings are more easily deformed than steel.
    Your question makes me feel a lot better ... there are other OCD's on the forum

    Yield Strength (aka Elastic Limit) is the amount of stress that causes permanent deformation in a material. Young's Modulus (aka Modulus of Elasticity or Tensile Modulus) is used to predict the elongation or compression of an object as long as the stress is less than the yield strength of the material. Let's look at the numbers ...

    Ti-6Al-4V
    Tensile Yield 128 ksi (880 MPa)
    Modulus of Elasticity 16,500 ksi (114 GPa)

    For comparison let's use a well known fatigue resistant steel - 4140HTSRA (heat treated, stress relieved, annealed):
    Tensile Yield 140 ksi (965 MPa)
    Modulus of Elasticity 29,700 ksi (205 GPa)

    As the numbers show, 4140 has a Tensile Yield 9% higher than Ti-6-4 and Modulus is almost twice as much. But in the real world (at least the world of key rings) it would appear to be a non issue:





    How did you get it over the thick edge of the Keyton without over flexing it? I'd like to put a Ti Pest on it with a Ti Mako, but I'm concerned about deforming the ring. Any suggestions?
    I never gave it much thought, just pried open the split end as little as possible and held each item so it spread the split a minimal amount.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  11. #41
    *Flashaholic* nbp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,621

    Default

    Well that answers it! Thanks for that very thorough response.

    I'll just be very careful I suppose. I'll let ya know how it works out.
    McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review Malkoff MDC Review MY LIGHTS McGizmo: Get It, Use It, Love It, DoNotDelete It.

  12. #42
    *Flashaholic* nbp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,621

    Default

    Got my Ti rings today. Man are they light! You were right though, it snapped right back after I slid the Ti Pest on it, no problem. I have the Ti Pest and Ti Mako on it now. I am getting the Ti sickness, eek! Other thing I'd like to put on there would be some kind of Ti trit fob. So if you're ever inclined to whip up a little bauble made of scrap Ti and mill some slots in it, I'd be happy to be your beta tester Barry.
    McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review Malkoff MDC Review MY LIGHTS McGizmo: Get It, Use It, Love It, DoNotDelete It.

  13. #43
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by nbp View Post
    ... if you're ever inclined to whip up a little bauble made of scrap Ti and mill some slots in it, I'd be happy to be your beta tester Barry.
    It should come as no surprise that I've been thinking about a trit fob (or cord pull) design

    The only Ti bar in the shop is 1" (25.4mm) diameter & that's for a special project that uses no batteries. My though is to find some .375" (9.5mm) solid bar stock - that would be useful for a solid Ti fob & it could also be drilled through to allow use as a cord pull with 550 (or smaller) Paracord. A short version would have trits about 6-8mm in length, medium version with 12mm vials, longest would have 24mm trits.

    One lesson that the ROTOR project has beaten into me is that most CNC shops don't want to do small dollar runs. If a shop can make a profit of $10,000 USD they fight to see who gets the job. If the profit is $1000 they are less than eager to run anything. To make a fob or pull cost effective in titanium is tough without automated machinery .
    Last edited by precisionworks; 03-30-2012 at 06:55 AM.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  14. #44
    *Flashaholic* nbp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,621

    Default

    Simple, elegant, classy Ti fobs are always in demand around here. If you have any one off protos...
    McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review Malkoff MDC Review MY LIGHTS McGizmo: Get It, Use It, Love It, DoNotDelete It.

  15. #45
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Northern VA, USA
    Posts
    5,855

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Regarding the Ti split rings, there is another approach that might work. First roll the wire around so the split ring gets turned inside-out, then install your keys, then roll the wire around again so the ring is turned right-side-out again. Installing your keys while the ring is inside-out will cause any deformation to pull the wires together once the ring has been turned right-side-out.

  16. #46
    *Flashaholic* nbp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,621

    Default

    These things are pretty heavy duty. I don't see how that would be possible. Nor have I ever turned a split ring inside out before, so it's hard to picture. Either way, there was no real deformation after installing the tool anyways so it's all good.
    McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review Malkoff MDC Review MY LIGHTS McGizmo: Get It, Use It, Love It, DoNotDelete It.

  17. #47
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Northern VA, USA
    Posts
    5,855

    Default Re: First post in this section

    I'm not really sure how to describe it. You take one loose end of the split ring wire, and roll it around the other wire so it ends up on the other side, as if the split ring had been assembled in mirror-image. Then you install your keys, then you reverse the first step of the process.

  18. #48
    *Flashaholic* nbp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,621

    Default

    I think I see what you mean now. It would be challenging I think, as these rings are big and strong, but a possibility. Fortunately it seems you need to spread the coils pretty far to cause any measureable deformation.
    McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review Malkoff MDC Review MY LIGHTS McGizmo: Get It, Use It, Love It, DoNotDelete It.

  19. #49
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by nbp View Post
    I think I see what you mean now. It would be challenging I think, as these rings are big and strong, but a possibility. Fortunately it seems you need to spread the coils pretty far to cause any measurable deformation.
    +1

    Titanium has long been used for extreme service springs & a split ring is essentially a flattened spring (or a spring that's already compressed to its limit). Ti springs are seeing more use in automobile racing motors, high end mountain bikes, etc.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  20. #50
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Northern VA, USA
    Posts
    5,855

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by nbp View Post
    I think I see what you mean now. It would be challenging I think, as these rings are big and strong, but a possibility. Fortunately it seems you need to spread the coils pretty far to cause any measureable deformation.
    Ah. Well, that's good to know. My only experience with non-steel split rings is with brass ones, which stretch very easily.

  21. #51
    *Flashaholic* nbp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,621

    Default Re: First post in this section

    I have a Ti Keyton on the way from Griff now, so I will be taking the Pest off and putting the Keyton on in a couple days, so we'll get another opportunity to test its springiness.

    Already the Mako is eating the anodizing off the Ti Pest in my pocket. That Mako is a tough little guy. The Keyton is stonewashed, so they should play better.
    McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review Malkoff MDC Review MY LIGHTS McGizmo: Get It, Use It, Love It, DoNotDelete It.

  22. #52
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by nbp View Post
    ... the Mako is eating the anodizing off the Ti Pest in my pocket. That Mako is a tough little guy. The Keyton is stonewashed, so they should play better.
    The Ti Pest is heat anodized & the resultant oxide layer is less than 0.00040" (0.010mm). The HAIII hard ano on the Mako, like that on other hard ano lights, is often 10X thicker & is much more durable. The stonewashed Keyton should do well on your key ring.

    My Flat Ti Keyton is bead blasted & rubbing against the other items on the ring has caused a burnished look.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  23. #53
    *Flashaholic* nbp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,621

    Default

    Actually the Mako is light polish blasted Ti. The Pest never stood a chance. That's ok, my Atwoods are users, like all my gadgets. No point in having nice things if I never get to enjoy them. Interesting though that the heat anodizing is so thin, I didn't realize that. Is the electric/acid bath anodizing (whatever it's called) thicker or the same as heat ano?
    McGizmo Haiku Review Mac's Tri EDC Review Malkoff MDC Review MY LIGHTS McGizmo: Get It, Use It, Love It, DoNotDelete It.

  24. #54
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton Illinois
    Posts
    6,273

    Default Re: First post in this section

    Quote Originally Posted by nbp View Post
    Actually the Mako is light polish blasted Ti.
    My bad

    Interesting though that the heat anodizing is so thin, I didn't realize that. Is the electric/acid bath anodizing (whatever it's called) thicker or the same as heat ano?
    TFC (Titanium Finishing Co.) has more experience in Ti anodizing than anyone else I've spoken with. The Ti Fin 200 is Type II & Ti Fin 400 (lower right in photo) are the thickest & most durable.



    Anodic film thickness varies based on the solution being used. Strongly alkaline solutions can produce thickness up to several microns, while acidic/neutral/mildly basic solutions produce a nano-coating that's between 0-200 nano meters. The best short read I've found is from Metalast: http://www.metalast.com/documents/Te...ocesses/Ti.pdf

    If you want to try this in your shop, look at the supplies from Reactive Metals Studio.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights, Titanium Light boring & modding * PM's disabled * Please Email & PayPal through www:Precision.Works

  25. #55
    *Flashaholic* fyrstormer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Northern VA, USA
    Posts
    5,855

    Default Re: First post in this section

    "Fluffy" is not a term I would think to associate with anodizing.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •