Jetbeam RRT-01

[kaichu dento]

Awesome, thank you. I have an RRT-01 coming today or tomorrow, I may as well order a couple reflectors as well.

I was positive that I was going to want a new reflector, but am surprised at how good it is. You might as well wait until you've got the light in your hands just in case.

The thing I do need to change as soon as possible is the tint and I'll probably have to go with a neutral or warm emitter since Cree has yet to release a hCRI XM-L.

[F250XLT]

I was positive that I was going to want a new reflector, but am surprised at how good it is. You might as well wait until you've got the light in your hands just in case.

The thing I do need to change as soon as possible is the tint and I'll probably have to go with a neutral or warm emitter since Cree has yet to release a hCRI XM-L.

Yes, good point. It arrived today, so I'll check it out tonight.

[F250XLT]

So the battery of choice is an AW IMR 18350, or RCR123?

[F250XLT]

Is anyone else interested in getting an Arc6 reflector? I was thinking we could save a few bucks on shipping if we ordered together, and had them shipped out from there.

[kaichu dento]

Is anyone else interested in getting an Arc6 reflector? I was thinking we could save a few bucks on shipping if we ordered together, and had them shipped out from there.

The more I use my light the more I'm interested in going ahead and swapping reflectors, but I'm wondering if there's a chance we can eventually get JetBeam to offer an OP reflector, or get Niteye reflectors for the EYE-10, which is essentially an RRT-01 with an OP reflector already in it.

I've got one on the way and one of the first things I plan on doing is swapping the reflector out of it.

If it appears that the Arc6 reflector is actually the best option, as opposed to the McR20 that another CPF'er put in his light, then I'll be interested in getting a couple.

[scout24]

Fyrstormer- Lathe? BAH! 1x30" beltsander! McR20S is awesome! I'm glad the Arc reflectors work, too. Good to have choices.

[robeden]

Is anyone else interested in getting an Arc6 reflector? I was thinking we could save a few bucks on shipping if we ordered together, and had them shipped out from there.

If we're talking $5 or so, I'd go for that.

[fyrstormer]

The Arc6 reflector is a perfect match for diameter, which is the hardest dimension to match properly, and it needs ~1-1.5mm sanded off the front to make it fit properly. The sanding dust can be washed off the reflector if it's done carefully, with clean hands and clear liquid soap. The back end of the reflector hovers over the emitter a little bit, but the stock reflector does that too; you'll notice the stock reflector has a cylindrical well at the back, and the Arc6 reflector fits the same, except it doesn't physically touch the emitter. There is a black plastic centering ring snapped onto the emitter, which I removed because I preferred the appearance of the white carrier board behind the emitter instead; it no longer served a useful purpose for centering the new reflector anyway.

I have three Arc6 P4 reflectors I can sell at-cost; PM me if you're interested.

[fyrstormer]

Fyrstormer- Lathe? BAH! 1x30" beltsander! McR20S is awesome! I'm glad the Arc reflectors work, too. Good to have choices.

The McR20-S and the Arc6 reflector have essentially the same optical properties (i.e. same parabolic curve), except the Arc6 reflector is about 1.2mm smaller in diameter. It saves a lot of time; I was able to make the Arc6 reflector fit using a flat sheet of 400-grit emory paper taped to my kitchen counter, and about 15 minutes of hand-sanding while distracting myself by watching TV.

[F250XLT]

I have three Arc6 P4 reflectors I can sell at-cost; PM me if you're interested.

PM sent

[fyrstormer]

PM replied.

Per my PM conversation with F250XLT, anyone who wants to replace the reflector in their RRT-01/TC-R1 should first make sure they can actually open the bezel without damaging the light. It would suck to buy a reflector (or a batch of them) only to find out the bezel can't be removed without damage. I boiled my TC-R1 head for a few minutes (inside a Ziploc bag, to prevent direct contact with the water), but ultimately I still had to resort to using strong pliers with rubber jaw-covers to get the bezel off. With the titanium version there was little risk of damage, but with the aluminum version...I don't know. Aluminum doesn't have the same resiliency as titanium has.

[Nake]

I opened my Al one by hand tearing up the O-ring. There was glue on the threads and O-ring, but not much.

[F250XLT]

I opened my Al one by hand tearing up the O-ring. There was glue on the threads and O-ring, but not much.

I tried torquing mine by hand, but to no avail...

[scout24]

Seems to be hit and miss, both my aluminum opened no problem by hand, and I know of one Ti that was just as easy...

[F250XLT]

Seems to be hit and miss, both my aluminum opened no problem by hand, and I know of one Ti that was just as easy...

Perhaps I'm just a weakling...

[F250XLT]

So I have the opposite problem with this light, than I do with my V10R Ti+...My RRT-01 doesn't turn on for about the first 30-40 degrees, anyone else have the same issue?

[kaichu dento]

So I have the opposite problem with this light, than I do with my V10R Ti+...My RRT-01 doesn't turn on for about the first 30-40 degrees, anyone else have the same issue?

Mine's the same, but I don't mind the slow turn on nearly as much as the 'end of results' while still turning at the top end. Don't know if others feel the same, but the one I didn't have to return is fairly close to perfect for me.

[nakahoshi]

So I have the opposite problem with this light, than I do with my V10R Ti+...My RRT-01 doesn't turn on for about the first 30-40 degrees, anyone else have the same issue?

I thought this was done on purpose to avoid accidental activation. I actually like the way its designed

-Bobby

[F250XLT]

Mine's the same, but I don't mind the slow turn on nearly as much as the 'end of results' while still turning at the top end. Don't know if others feel the same, but the one I didn't have to return is fairly close to perfect for me.

I agree, it's better to have it this way.

I thought this was done on purpose to avoid accidental activation. I actually like the way its designed

-Bobby

That is exactly what I was thinking.

[ironhorse]

After using this light for a few days, why would I ever want to go back to a light with a clicky switch again?

[kaichu dento]

After using this light for a few days, why would I ever want to go back to a light with a clicky switch again?

While I keep reaching in the pocket with the 'new light' inside over the one with the Haiku, I keep wishing that it did have a switch and some detents (which is why I've already got the EYE10 on order) so that I could have the light set to the best general setting for the immediate usage at hand.

I'd love to see an aftermarket body from Steve Ku which allowed us to click the tailcap into one of two positions - one being standard operation, the other activating the momentary-capable clicky.

This has definitely got to be the absolute best UI to give to those you love who can't get used to more complicated UI's. Now if they'll come out with a AAA version, I'll be getting a bunch of them!

[nakahoshi]

I am a huge clicky fan but there is nothing I hate more when I press a switch and no light comes out because the control ring is "Off", when you need your light quickly this is very frustrating. You than turn the ring, and either it lights up or you have to activate the clicky again.. I hated the NiteCore Infilux IFE1 because of this. At least with the Sunwayman UI you will get some kind of output no matter where the control ring is set.

This UI is nice for a cusual EDC, a non-work EDC where it is not critical to get full output instantly.

While I keep reaching in the pocket with the 'new light' inside over the one with the Haiku, I keep wishing that it did have a switch and some detents (which is why I've already got the EYE10 on order) so that I could have the light set to the best general setting for the immediate usage at hand.

I'd love to see an aftermarket body from Steve Ku which allowed us to click the tailcap into one of two positions - one being standard operation, the other activating the momentary-capable clicky.

This has definitely got to be the absolute best UI to give to those you love who can't get used to more complicated UI's. Now if they'll come out with a AAA version, I'll be getting a bunch of them!

[fyrstormer]

Perhaps I'm just a weakling...

They're definitely not all sealed the same. The first one I got required rubber-jawed pliers to open; the second one twisted open by hand.

[fyrstormer]

In other news: the reflectors I had have gone Arc should be able to sell more if anyone else wants to take a turn group-buying them.

[somnambulated]

So the battery of choice is an AW IMR 18350, or RCR123?

The IMR is being touted as having the best output. I messed up and ordered 2 RCR AW's. Great so far, but not a very noticeable brightness increase. I was expecting an "Aziz... Light!" moment like the RCR AW in my Eagletac D25a.


Via iPhone & Tapatalk

[F250XLT]

In other news: the reflectors I had have gone Arc should be able to sell more if anyone else wants to take a turn group-buying them.

Aww, bummer.

[fyrstormer]

Yeah, you're not the only one who thinks so. If I'd known anyone else besides me was actually interested in the Arc6 reflector retrofit, I'd have bought more of them. I was trying to avoid getting stuck with a batch of reflectors I had no use for, and, well, it worked.

The good news is, we all know Arc isn't using them, and won't complain about anyone wanting to buy them.

[F250XLT]

Understandable...If anyone want to get in on a group buy, please PM me.

[BarryH]

I'm in... PM sent.

[scottyhazzard]

How does the reflector affect the throw- before I join in?