P60 modules -warm, neutral, cool white/XRE-XPE-XPG-S2-XML-U2 / NICHIA 92CRI (part 10)

[nailbender]

Hi Dave,

I know nothing about dropins etc, but I need one for my night vision set up. I've been told what I need is a -

IR platinum dragon p60 dropin required, to be used in solarforce l2p host, using protected rechargeable 18650.
850nm,
even flood required at as close to 10m spread at 50m as possible please.
3 mode
potted

Could I order one of these please?

Best Regards

Way

HI

Yes that is not a problem, I have those in stock. Price is $45 with shipping in the US included, 1st class Int is $5

Thanks

Dave

[Yogi1Kanobee]

HI

Yes that is not a problem, I have those in stock. Price is $45 with shipping in the US included, 1st class Int is $5

Thanks

Dave

Great. Could I have your paypal address please?

[Yogi1Kanobee]

HI

Yes that is not a problem, I have those in stock. Price is $45 with shipping in the US included, 1st class Int is $5

Thanks

Dave

I'm not able to PM you for paypal details or view your profile, I guess because I don't have the minimum posts. Would you be able to PM me the details?

[Yogi1Kanobee]

I'm not able to PM you for paypal details or view your profile, I guess because I don't have the minimum posts. Would you be able to PM me the details?

Paypal payment sent

[SwatDude]

Dave,

I received my drop-ins and I couldn't be more tickled with the XPG. Not sure why I never tried it before. Question for you:

I have never really understood what to do with the springs. All my bodies are bored Surefire 6p's. Can you explain how they are really supposed to fit. I have always just cut them to one circumference so that the top outside ridge of the drop in makes contact with the top opening of the light and the copper tape fits snug. Is this right? Or should you leave more spring with the 6p so that it sticks up higher and then apply the copper tape. Basically, does the light need some spring inside the head for reliability. I have never had a problem with them pushed all the way but I was just curious.

With full spring...


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

with one turn...


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[SwatDude]

I am adding a second post because I didn't want my comments to get diluted with my technical question above. The 3.5 amp XML is bright as heck and lights up my whole back yard. I am using it with the large Cryos cooling head and a Larue Tactical rail mount. After ten minutes on high with an ambient temp of 85 degF it was warm to the touch but not hot by any means anywhere on the head or body. I am using the copper tape which makes snug contact inside the head. The extra surface area of the LARGER Cryos head works amazing at keeping things cool. This is going to make a great weapon light although since I am running an 2000 mah IMR for reliability, I will only get about 30 minutes on high and 11 hours on low. Side by side with my non scientific eye, low on the 3.5 amp XML looks a little more than half as bright as medium on the 1.4 amp XPG. Something weird I noticed, comparing both on low side by side, the XML looks rosy to me while the XPG looks more yellow. This color difference is not visible in either module on high.

Now for my comments on the XPG. While the hot spot of the XML seems bigger and it is obviously putting out more than double the lumens, I was comparing both lights side by side shining them on a palm tree approx. 100 yards away. To my eye, the XPG is brighter on the tree trunk than the XML, although the XML is lighting up a significantly larger area. The fact that this drop-in (with a 2900 mah battery) will run approx. 2 hours on high, almost 7 hours on medium (30%) and approx. 42 hours on low makes it very appealing to me for a backpacking or walking light, super bright with great runtime.

I have two other XML's in the 5000k which had what appeared to be very natural colors to my eye so I wasn't sure I would like the cooler beam, but they are still very white with none of that "flourescent" look I hate so much. I don't think the green of the trees looks as natural with the 6200k, but it is very subtle and I am very impressed with the sheer lumen output of the cooler color.

[nailbender]

Dave,

I received my drop-ins and I couldn't be more tickled with the XPG. Not sure why I never tried it before. Question for you:

I have never really understood what to do with the springs. All my bodies are bored Surefire 6p's. Can you explain how they are really supposed to fit. I have always just cut them to one circumference so that the top outside ridge of the drop in makes contact with the top opening of the light and the copper tape fits snug. Is this right? Or should you leave more spring with the 6p so that it sticks up higher and then apply the copper tape. Basically, does the light need some spring inside the head for reliability. I have never had a problem with them pushed all the way but I was just curious.

HI

You are supposed to do exactly what you are doing with the spring. You need to leave at least one ring of the spring to make a good ground, I send a whole spring becuase some members may be using a after market lamphead much like you are that can increase the pocket length. While I have not tested a Cryos head you may be able to use more than one ring with that lamphead and your 6P vs a stock head . The spring should be cut long enough to keep the module from rattling inside the lamphead and to keep good contact on the battery with out needing undo force to close the lamphead. Too short and it may not contact the batteries properly since there can be up to several MM difference in length between protected and non protected batts.

While a 6P / C2 / Z2 may only take one ring a Solarforce L2P will take a whole spring as will several others this is why I send a whole spring, if you have a couple of surefires cut one ring off each end of a single spring and save the other spring in case you buy a host that takes a whole spring and that way you can use a module in both.

Dave

[SwatDude]

Thanks for the info Dave. There is a little rattle when the battery isn't in so I will add some more spring.

[DaveTheDude]

New order, from repeat customer DaveTheDude:

One NICHIA 4500k 92CRI neutral drop-in.
3 level high / med / low 2.8-6 volts with memory / 1.4 amp / 1.7 amp
Potted
Light Orange Peel Reflector

Payment Sent (Unique Transaction ID # 85819995B26157644)

Address and contact information included in PayPal notes.
Payment for potting, shipping, etc. included.

Continuing thanks for sharing the fruits of your hobby with the rest of us...

[nailbender]

New order, from repeat customer DaveTheDude:

One NICHIA 4500k 92CRI neutral drop-in.
3 level high / med / low 2.8-6 volts with memory / 1.4 amp / 1.7 amp
Potted
Light Orange Peel Reflector

Payment Sent (Unique Transaction ID # 85819995B26157644)

Address and contact information included in PayPal notes.
Payment for potting, shipping, etc. included.

Continuing thanks for sharing the fruits of your hobby with the rest of us...

Hi Amigo

I can easily make it 1.4 or 1.7 amps your call, let me know.

Thanks for the kind words

Dave

[eg1977]

Is it possible to get a Nichia 4500k dropin optimized for one CR123? It's for an older Surefire weapon light (344AR). If yes, what mA choices are available? Thanks

[nailbender]

Is it possible to get a Nichia 4500k dropin optimized for one CR123? It's for an older Surefire weapon light (344AR). If yes, what mA choices are available? Thanks

Hi

If you were to go to a RCR123 then I could help you out but I don't have any single level low voltage at this time. I can easily build one for a rechargeable but only have 5 levels for a 3 volt right now.

Sorry

Dave

[N/Apower]

Payment sent for:

(2)
Nichia 219 high CRI
Thermally potted
2.8-6 Volt 3-mode (100/30/5) with memory
1.7A
LOP reflector

Thanks!

[N/Apower]

HI

You are supposed to do exactly what you are doing with the spring. You need to leave at least one ring of the spring to make a good ground, I send a whole spring becuase some members may be using a after market lamphead much like you are that can increase the pocket length. While I have not tested a Cryos head you may be able to use more than one ring with that lamphead and your 6P vs a stock head . The spring should be cut long enough to keep the module from rattling inside the lamphead and to keep good contact on the battery with out needing undo force to close the lamphead. Too short and it may not contact the batteries properly since there can be up to several MM difference in length between protected and non protected batts.

While a 6P / C2 / Z2 may only take one ring a Solarforce L2P will take a whole spring as will several others this is why I send a whole spring, if you have a couple of surefires cut one ring off each end of a single spring and save the other spring in case you buy a host that takes a whole spring and that way you can use a module in both.

Dave

I usually remove the spring entirely, and make a slight interference fit with the tape against the sides of the body where the module fits, is this bad practice?

[CrazyIvan2011]

Could I please put an order in for the following?

· Cree XM-L + $40
· T40 flux bin 5B3 4000k neutral white
· 3 level, Low / Med / High
· With memory
· Regulated, 2.8-6 volts at 2.8 amp
· Smooth reflector
· With thermal Potting and copper tape + $5.00
· Priority Mail International +$15

Total = $60

It will be used in a Solarforce L2P host with x1 AW protected 3100mah 18650 cell.

I have a few neutral XML’s, as I just find them easier on my eyes (sensitive). My favourite tint is the one my Zebralight SC600w has. It says that it is 4200k, but not sure about other emitter details? Is the bin etc I have picked on the same lines as the SC600w? Even better if it is a bit warmer still.

Thanks for any help/advice!

...Oh and (Transaction ID: 2NW07861EV954483X).

[DaveTheDude]

Hi Amigo

I can easily make it 1.4 or 1.7 amps your call, let me know.

Thanks for the kind words

Dave

Dave...I'm going to confess to ignorance as to the tradeoffs between the 1.4 and 1.7 amp options. Could I persuade you to elaborate? Thanks.

[nailbender]

Dave...I'm going to confess to ignorance as to the tradeoffs between the 1.4 and 1.7 amp options. Could I persuade you to elaborate? Thanks.

Hi

There is about 30 to 40 lumens difference between the two but remember there is always a trade off, you will get less runtimes for a small increase in lumens.

Dave

[nailbender]

I usually remove the spring entirely, and make a slight interference fit with the tape against the sides of the body where the module fits, is this bad practice?

Hi

You can do it the way you are but you have to be very careful not to bend the tape too far around the bottom to where it will comprise the positive. Often it is easier to use one ring of the spring and keep the copper tape on the reflector but since you have had good results there is nothing wrong with what you are doing. If you have problems when the host is shaken then drop back to one ring, I try to get most folks not to use tape simply because I don't want the bottom of the module compromised to where a short may occur.

Dave

[nailbender]

Could I please put an order in for the following?

· Cree XM-L + $40
· T40 flux bin 5B3 4000k neutral white
· 3 level, Low / Med / High
· With memory
· Regulated, 2.8-6 volts at 2.8 amp
· Smooth reflector
· With thermal Potting and copper tape + $5.00
· Priority Mail International +$15

Total = $60

It will be used in a Solarforce L2P host with x1 AW protected 3100mah 18650 cell.

I have a few neutral XML’s, as I just find them easier on my eyes (sensitive). My favourite tint is the one my Zebralight SC600w has. It says that it is 4200k, but not sure about other emitter details? Is the bin etc I have picked on the same lines as the SC600w? Even better if it is a bit warmer still.

Thanks for any help/advice!

...Oh and (Transaction ID: 2NW07861EV954483X).

Hi
I don't have all these hosts so I can not comment on the tint or flux bin of the light you have, most members have loved this tint so hopefully it will be as wanted. I do believe at this time I may only have a 4C in 4k, I will have to check. If you want warmer I do have a 3500k emitter also.

thanks

Dave

[DaveTheDude]

Hi

There is about 30 to 40 lumens difference between the two but remember there is always a trade off, you will get less runtimes for a small increase in lumens.

Dave

In that case, I'll go with the 1.4 amp version. (The other modules I acquired from you are more than bright enough for my purposes...I suspect that the 1.4 amp version will be similar in performance.)

P.S. - Thanks for the fast reply.

[N/Apower]

Hi

You can do it the way you are but you have to be very careful not to bend the tape too far around the bottom to where it will comprise the positive. Often it is easier to use one ring of the spring and keep the copper tape on the reflector but since you have had good results there is nothing wrong with what you are doing. If you have problems when the host is shaken then drop back to one ring, I try to get most folks not to use tape simply because I don't want the bottom of the module compromised to where a short may occur.

Dave

I mean to say, I wrap the tape only on the sides. There is no danger of it touching the "circuit board" looking part of the module. I remove the spring entirely (the big one, not the little integrated one). I have never had an issue of any sort regarding loss of contact. I included a picture of what I am doing so if it's "wrong" I can be corrected.

[CrazyIvan2011]

Hi
I don't have all these hosts so I can not comment on the tint or flux bin of the light you have, most members have loved this tint so hopefully it will be as wanted. I do believe at this time I may only have a 4C in 4k, I will have to check. If you want warmer I do have a 3500k emitter also.

thanks

Dave

If you do not have the bin I selected, could you just pick the closest to it that you do have...I trust your judgement
I already have a one of the high CRI Nichia's on the way, so wanted something not as warm, a bit brighter instead. The 3500k might be too warm, I don't know?

One of the others you have close is fine.

Thanks again!

[nailbender]

If you do not have the bin I selected, could you just pick the closest to it that you do have...I trust your judgement
I already have a one of the high CRI Nichia's on the way, so wanted something not as warm, a bit brighter instead. The 3500k might be too warm, I don't know?

One of the others you have close is fine.

Thanks again!

Hi

No problem, I think you will like the 4C tint, it is not quite as rosy as the Nichia. Thanks for letting me know.

Dave

[Freaker]

NICHIA 4500k 92CRI neutral
1 Level 4-14 volts / 1.5 amp
OP reflector
Potted with tape

[SwatDude]

Dave...I'm going to confess to ignorance as to the tradeoffs between the 1.4 and 1.7 amp options. Could I persuade you to elaborate? Thanks.

I went with 1.4 and couldn't be happier with the quantity of light output. This coming from an overdriven XML guy.

[kosPap]

Just a question

Do the XML 2.3-6V modules use drivers with AMC7135 chips?

If NOT what is the current draw with 2xCR123s

[N/Apower]

I went with 1.4 and couldn't be happier with the quantity of light output. This coming from an overdriven XML guy.

Do you find that the Nichia "carries" farther? I find that to my eyes in the woods, lower CRI/"colder" LED's tend to "gray out" and lose detail at the very edge of their maximum useful range, when compared to an incan. Is the Nichia the same, or does the high CRI make it behave like an incandescent light?

*excited to get mine in a few days*

[MattSPL]

My S2 flux XPG with LOP reflector arrived yesterday
Very pleased with the quality of the unit and its performance.

Thanks
Matt

[nailbender]

Just a question

Do the XML 2.3-6V modules use drivers with AMC7135 chips?

If NOT what is the current draw with 2xCR123s

Hi

Yes they use drivers with the 7135 chips, the levels are 100 / 30 % / 5%

I have one constant current driver that is 2.8 amps to 4.2 amps, it has 2 UI's a 2 level 1005 / 5% and a 5 level that is a standard hi/ med / low / sos / strobe. UI's change by a blink at 10 seconds when first turned on to high.


Dave

[SwatDude]

Do you find that the Nichia "carries" farther? I find that to my eyes in the woods, lower CRI/"colder" LED's tend to "gray out" and lose detail at the very edge of their maximum useful range, when compared to an incan. Is the Nichia the same, or does the high CRI make it behave like an incandescent light?

*excited to get mine in a few days*

Sorry. I think my comment confused you. My XPG is a 6300k, not the Nichia. The Nichia will have less output but I was really comparing the 1.4 to the 1.7. I think Dave said when you start to over drive them you get to the point of the law of diminishing returns, i.e., it costs you more amp draw than the corresponding extra lumen output. While I enjoyed my 5000k XML, the 6200 is in no way objectionable to me. I do think the 5000k is more accurate in greens and browns to my eye, but I like the sheer output of the 6200k and having driven with Xenon car headlights for the last 8 years, it looks normal to me. Incans remind me of a cozy fire but are now very yellow to my eye. I guess it is all what you get used to.