These Nichia's have as close to daylight color rendition as you can get.
Tint Tint Tint - definately. Story I have told before - I was in a closed facility, no power, no outside light and that day was using a 6500K SST-50 (got it to try versus my 4500K). I was shocked - there was NO depth perception. I could not tell how far away anything was, which is kind of scary in an industrial site. My superintendant turned on his magcharger (incandescant) and depth perception appeared. I have not bought a cool LED since (nor will I). I'm generally a 4000K to 4500K fan (Neutralish), but also like HiCRI in some applications. I always carry a neutral 40DD spot and a HiCRI 40DD flood. Great combo.
Also just had 2 PDs upgraded to 4000K / 4500K XM-Ls, new life to a great body. I'm trying to avoid getting new lights, just upgrading older ones...
I'm facing the ultimate tint snob dilemma at the moment. I want to preorder one of the new Varapower Turbo 2.0 lilghts from Lambda, but he's now offering them in 4000 and 4500K tints. How do you reconcile ordering one of the most powerful lights on the market knowing that you will loose 10 - 20% of the output by going with the warmer tint? I'm so distraught.
Last edited by GeoBruin; 04-16-2012 at 09:47 AM.
I'll take cool blue (LOVE cool tints), neutral, warm, cyan tinted white (remember early Lux Vs?) and then puke green in that order
I want a HI CRI Cool White, though
My stages were:
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body (efficiency)
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body that wont go thermonuclear on me
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body that can handle heat, have long runtime, a low mode and with good build quality
Having CCT as your number 1 exclusionary factor saves you money.
I like 4000-4500K CCT, 4500-5000K is too cool, 3500-4000K is too warm. [those are acceptable to use, but not purchase]
6500K-dive lighting, 5000K cool-white, 4000K neutral-white, 3000K warm-white
"MORE lumens in a 1 cell body that can handle heat, have long runtime, a low mode and with good build quality and is warmer (past neutral)"
Unfortunately this also put me into McGizmo territory... to which the Haiku is on the way
It seems there is a demand for a thread dedicated to identifying the various stages of flashaholism.
Ok. Posted earlier about having my first HCRI on the way. Picked up a Peak Logan from GeoBruin off the marketplace. All I can say is awesome. For those "on the fence" about HCRI, get one! Prior to this Logan, my closest thing was my ZL SC60w's. Love that tint. But HCRI is definitely different territory. Like many others have already said, very close to an incan. I really like it, and it won't be my last. Probably gonna add to my HDS collection with one of Henry's rotary's in HCRI! I think that will be an incredible light!
I own about 25 - 30 lights. 3 are neutral and one HCRI. I find myself always taking the neutrals out with me. I still prefer cold tint for a thrower. I find myself wanting more neutral lights, but choices are limited. I really want a neutral Jetbeam RRT 21. I think the only way to get one is to change the emitter. I'm passing through the fourth stage....
I believe the 5th stage of Flashaholism is Modding for tint..... I'm almost there....
All I can say is I have it bad.
Returned an X10 because it was too greenish, replaced with S12 that is slightly yellow and im ok with that (very bright and good tint). Ultimately I used to seek out very white whites, but now I think I want white + HCRI. However I have grown fond of the very warm tint on my HCRI Preon2. It's nice for reading and easy on the eyes, it's almost hotwire yellow which I think is unique, and really I kinda think it is my preference for many things. We will see how it compares to the HCRI Zebralight I will be receiving soon which is supposed to be both more white and HCRI. Probably the perfect combo for it's general task and camping oriented use.
So yea I got it bad, HCRI is important, but so is tint and so is brightness. :P I can't say I prefer more yellow or more white, it really depends on the task, but i don't like green at all, or angry blue, or really even slightly blue these days. But that's because I'm in the know, I'm sure many people still view blue tinted lights as the brightest just because of the tint.
I think I'm only at stage 5 right now, but soon to be Stage 6 flashaholic. I have done modding for tint in the past by buildinng custom tinted lights in the luxeon days, I think I used quad TWAK's I also have a WO binned Lux V I never used, back before there was antyhing called HCRI :P
Last edited by Justintoxicated; 04-12-2012 at 01:44 AM.
1. Wow so bright.
2. Must have more lumens...More!
3. Check out these "new" LSD or whatever batteries.
4. Hay does my light's tint look green? Be honest.
5. I only use lights of 4000k or HCRI. No cool white for me. No way.
7. The new wonder X LED. How many lumens from a single AA? I am back in.
8. Repeat process.
Right now I am in stage 6.
There is also the stage of sub 1 lumen lust but not sure of the rank within this list.
Last edited by Woods Walker; 04-12-2012 at 08:01 AM.
Last edited by PayBack; 04-12-2012 at 05:44 PM.
Loyalty above all else, except Honour
And then there is the final stage: A specially built Malkoff Hi-CRI. Wildcat in an MD3 with 2xAW. 18500 Cells.
Where to next...?
I think I'm stalled out at "tint". I've sampled HCRI and found myself underwhelmed. I have an HCRI Preon 2 from 4sevens, and while it's a nice light, the tint is actually *less* "realistic" (see below) than the previous non-HCRI warms I got from the same source. I know there's a difference when I use a CD to examine the spectra; the HCRI fills in the "cyan gap" better than the warm. But I have found no object in the real world that "notices" this quality in the light.
So, I've mutated into a "Planckian locus" and emission angle snob instead.
The first is obvious; I want tints that lie as close to the Planckian locus as possible. The more precisely it matches up, the more "realistic" it is in matching the tint of a hypothetical hotwire heated to that temperature. The HCRI Preon came in to the yellow side of the locus, which gives it what I would call a "thin" or "gutless" quality to it. I can enjoy anything from 2700k to 5000k, so long as it's blackbody; one of my favorite lights is an older 5B XR-E, which I prefer to the more popular, but slightly pinkish 5A which IIRC initiated the whole warm tint craze.
The second pertains to the tendency of some emitters to show varying tint at different angles to the emitter; in most lights, this translates to a warmer hotspot with cooler spill. Since this variance occurs along a line that does not parallel the Planckian locus, it means that the hotspot or spill (and possibly both) are non-Planckian. Seoul P4's and XR-E's are better in this respect than most XP-x or XM-L emitters, in my experience so far.
photo review of warm vs neutral vs HiCRI Quarks, I find the warm and HiCRI are essentially indistinguishable color-wise.
My stages were:
1 - My first light ever - 2xD alkalines halogen torch. Stage of never ending bulb realigning for the best (perfect) spot shape.
2 - My first white 5mm LED. Stage of walking around with 2xAA alkaline batteries joined with wires and electrical tape.
3 - My first bright light. Automotive H4 bulb, old reflector, 1,5meter cable and... motorcycle 12V 14Ah battery in the backpack. Stage of weird ghostbuster-look and damaged backpack becouse of acid.
4 - My first HID light. 12V 4,5Ah SLA battery, Hella ballast and D2S lamp placed in BMW E36 reflector. Stage of "OMG This is power!" CPF registration, deep flashaholism has begun.
5 - My first high power LED, LedLenser V2 3xAAA NiMH's. Stage of "Let's pump it up Cree!" Emitter changes, reflector changes, resistor changes, everything changed!
6 - Maglite 4D HID mod. Beautiful and unusual light. Stage of "I'm sooo poor, my wallet is empty!"
7 - 24cm reflector flashlight's HID mod. Stage of THROW.
8 - Dereelight CL1H V2 and DBS. Stage of discovering neutral tint magic
9 - ArmyTek Predator. Stage of firefly fascination, turning back to cool tint
10 - Four Predators. Four tints. Stage of Holy Grail.
Last edited by LightForce; 04-15-2012 at 04:32 AM.
True Mag T5 45W HID is here
However I disagree about the preon, I actually like the tint, I guess I'm just strange, or maybe just tired of cool white LEDs.
I agree with the Planckian locus comments, I find myself not liking some XML lights due to this as well. In fact I returned my XM-L light due to related problems.
Last edited by Justintoxicated; 04-16-2012 at 01:52 AM.
great thread...Ive come around to tint now...not that my sc600 and sc60w are hugely different. but i do like the warmer sc60w..
Is high CRI the same as 4000k or 4500k....are they two different scales?
WTB zebra lights ..... Any 18650 powered light with the warm tint.....SC60w SC600w H600f/fw
Even though I've very new to the addiction, I can really identify with what's been posted...
Hi, my name is Michael and I'm a flashholic.
I've been a flashaholic for several years now, but of a different type... camera flashes. I've been "using" and it's been out of control. Sometimes taking pictures with 8 flashes or more, and using all sorts of modifiers on them, softboxes, umbrellas, snoots, grid spots. And that's not even talking about radiotriggers.
Then I ran across a flashlight topic on a photography forum and my search for JUST ONE NEW (single AA) flashlight spiraled into full fledged "hybrid" flashaholism.
The stages for me:
1. [introduction] - Oh, you mean there's smaller and brighter lights running off ONE AA CELL?
2. [amazement] - They have STROBE??
3. [excitement] - I NEED MORE POWER!!! MOAR POWAH!!! muhahahahaaaa >:]
4. [snobbery] - Some of these look quite blue...
5. [lust] - TITANIUM IZ TEH NEW BOOBIES!
6. [justifying] - It's perfectly reasonable to have two lights in the car, 3 in my camera bag, 1 at the office and a few on my person, as long as they serve different purposes.
7. [grief] - these lights are OK, but they disappoint me... I really NEED high CRI for this particular purpose.
9. [end-game] - death by flashlights is the only reasonable outcome...
Last edited by TweakMDS; 06-24-2012 at 02:48 AM.