The Official Malkoff Junkie thread - Part 2

[Deep6Osama]

MagCharger dropin. If you have a Magcharger you can't go wrong with the Malkoff dropin. Yet another flashlight brought back from the dead...............

[BIG45-70]

So I've been running what I consider to be a pretty interesting runtime test. I've been using an M61HCRI in a e-series body as an EDC for the last few weeks. I've been running up until now on an RCR123 but haven't really conducted any runtime tests over an hour. The last two days I've been running a single primary CR123 (surefire) and have no gotten over 4 hours of approx 25-35 lumens of light. Its still going strong and will report back when its out of juice. More the acceptable for use as an EDC considering I get full output for around 20mins with an RCR123. It goes to show how versatile the M61 really is.

UPDATE: Test now at 9 hours from a single CR123 approx 15 lumens.

[KDOG3]

I like the VME single cell setup with clip in that pic. If only malkoff woukd come out with a 2 or 3 level setup for its single cell lights based on the new xpg s2 emitter I would jump on it.

Got the blemished hound dog today. Couldent see anything wrong with the head except maby a more matte finish. The md2 tube had some nasty scratches, but i were expecting atleast some flaws for the price Forgot about the tailcapHad to use a solarforce L2T cap for now. looks good with the L2T cap

[Mr Floppy]

The driver in the XM-L Mag dropin is a simple and robust low dropout constant current regulator. Any excess voltage over and above what is needed for the LED is eliminated as heat. A traditional buck regulator capable of the high current needed to adequately drive the XM-L will not fit in the limited space of the Mag Dropin. The current seen at the tailcap is the current seen by the LED.

I have observed an interesting trait at the moment with the drop-in. It was looking like the batteries were low so I took the batteries out of the 4D to use in the 3D. These cells were around 1.28V but it looked like the drop-in was dimmer. So I measured the current at the tail cap and it was only around 1.7A. I swapped the drop-in to the 4D and measured the current at the tailcap after I put the cells back and it was 2.6A and much brighter.

I'm wondering if 3 cells when a bit depleted has quite a voltage sag so the quality of cells may be a factor? If that is the case, then 4 cells do give a bit more runtime at max output? These are tenergy centuras so they are not bad cells. Anyone have any ideas about these type of regulators?

[GeoBruin]

Does anyone know what the regulated voltage range is? It seems like these were made for NiMHs so I can't imaging you dropped out of regulation with 3 cells if they were really 1.28 volts each. Also, those are decent cells and this LED/Driver shouldn't cause them to sag that much.

I have observed an interesting trait at the moment with the drop-in. It was looking like the batteries were low so I took the batteries out of the 4D to use in the 3D. These cells were around 1.28V but it looked like the drop-in was dimmer. So I measured the current at the tail cap and it was only around 1.7A. I swapped the drop-in to the 4D and measured the current at the tailcap after I put the cells back and it was 2.6A and much brighter.

I'm wondering if 3 cells when a bit depleted has quite a voltage sag so the quality of cells may be a factor? If that is the case, then 4 cells do give a bit more runtime at max output? These are tenergy centuras so they are not bad cells. Anyone have any ideas about these type of regulators?

[Mr Floppy]

Does anyone know what the regulated voltage range is?

It would have to be 3.3V. I should have just measured the voltage over the LED but it's hard to stare at it. I'll try them with some tenergy premiums when I get them. I'll charge up the centuras and try it again.

[BIG45-70]

So i wasn't paying attention and installed a 18650 backwards in my C2 with a M61 219. It still fired up after I corrected it, but it got me thinking. Does the M61 have polarity protection? Did I just F up my favourite module?

[archimedes]

IIRC, the standard Malkoffs are not polarity protected ... the 219 is custom-built for Illumination Supply, I believe, but think that the only significant difference is the Nichia emitter.

[BIG45-70]

Is there anyway to tell if I have damaged my module?

[Bullzeyebill]

Historically, the only module built by Gene that did not have polarity protection was the M30, and I found out the hard way. Not sure if that is so today (except for M30), but you will know almost instantly if there is or is not polarity protection.

Bill

[beach honda]

There was one MD10 module left on the malkoff website just the other day, but I went to order...it was gone

Hopefully Gene makes more soon and at the same price of $79.00. Any idea how long between sold out runs it takes em to stock back up?

[Benchiew]

I think only Gene himself can answer your question. There will not be any rules or standards that will say how long the new batch will be available.

[archimedes]

Is there anyway to tell if I have damaged my module?

Historically, the only module built by Gene that did not have polarity protection was the M30, and I found out the hard way. Not sure if that is so today (except for M30), but you will know almost instantly if there is or is not polarity protection.

Bill

(For informational purposes only), the following link discusses the lack of polarity protection for the standard M61 -

http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/m...ire-p-136.html

Hopefully the context of this discussion permits posting this "commercial" link ?

As Bill points out, you will know rather quickly if the damage has been done....

[Bullzeyebill]

(For informational purposes only), the following link discusses the lack of polarity protection for the standard M61 -

Thanks for info. I have not noticed this warning in other descriptions of the M61, on Gene's site.

Bill

[chriscoobs]

sorry for the dumb question but is the hound dog or wildcat body compatible with a surefire 9p body?

[Bullzeyebill]

sorry for the dumb question but is the hound dog or wildcat body compatible with a surefire 9p body?

No, except that they both can use Surefire tailcaps, and body extensions, such as the A19, A14, etc. The end threads on the Malkoff's and Surefire C series bodies are the same.

Bill

[Glock 22]

Wonder what kind of time frame we are looking at before we see a M61SHO in a warm tint?

[Cerealand]

I'm also hoping for a warm/neutral M61SHO!

I was switching out the Malkoff head on my MD2 when i dropped the MD2 body. The MD2 body landed right on the threaded section of the md2 body. The threads on my md2 body are dents/misaligned now. I can no longer twist on my MD2 head. Is there anyway to fix it? This was physical damage done by myself.


*Edit* Just ordered a Blemished MD2 body as a replacement.

[Max_Power]

Call Gene Malkoff and see what he says.

[Cerealand]

Call Gene Malkoff and see what he says.

I really didn't think of that since this is not a warranty issue. Since today is a Sunday, I may give him a quick call sometime this week to see if he has any tips for me to repair the host. Thanks.

[scout24]

Cerealand- I have a full set of thread files, I'd be happy to give it a look and try to put them back in order if you'd like. Damaged threads are usually repairable... Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

[eg1977]

Does anybody have an MD10 that looks like the one below?

[cland72]

I believe that is a veleno designs unit.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...-Now-in-Stock!

[eg1977]

I believe that is a veleno designs unit.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...-Now-in-Stock!

Thanks for the heads up

[scout24]

Cerealand- Your MD2 body is repaired and working fine, the thread damage was pretty easy to file and fix. Works with both my MD2 head and Wildcat head, I mailed it back out to you yesterday afternoon. DC# coming in a PM. Pics below.

[archimedes]

....I was switching out the Malkoff head on my MD2 when i dropped the MD2 body. The MD2 body landed right on the threaded section of the md2 body. The threads on my md2 body are dents/misaligned now. I can no longer twist on my MD2 head. Is there anyway to fix it?....

Cerealand- I have a full set of thread files, I'd be happy to give it a look and try to put them back in order if you'd like. Damaged threads are usually repairable... Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

Cerealand- Your MD2 body is repaired and working fine, the thread damage was pretty easy to file and fix. Works with both my MD2 head and Wildcat head, I mailed it back out to you yesterday afternoon. DC# coming in a PM. Pics below. ....

This is one of the reasons why the CPF community is so great ... congrats guys!

[RI Chevy]

Excellent! Members helping out fellow members.

[Mr Floppy]

I'll try them with some tenergy premiums when I get them. I'll charge up the centuras and try it again.

I have received some Tenergy premium D cells, the white ones and in the 3D, I am getting ~1.8A at the tail cap. I cannot seem to get 2.6A other than with 4D cells. I charged up the centuras and the same thing except ~1.7A (there was another significant figure but I don't trust my amp meter). I might try eneloops in D cell adapters but I don't think that it will change anything because the Tenergy premiums are good cells and hold their voltage well under load. Has anyone else with the XM-L drop in tried measuring the current draw at the tail cap in a 3D?

I'm still very happy with the module and will use it in the 4D but curious to see if there is something different about my particular module.

Anyway, to the runtime, 8000mAh Centuras do run the XM-L in the 4D for around 3-3.5 hours. The last check was at the 3 hour mark where it was still pulling 2.6A at the tailcap. Then at the 3.5 hour mark, the output was reduced noticeably but I stupidly disconnected the amp meter before I checked it.

I did move the XP-G module to the 3D and it seems that it draws 800mA on 3 cells but when the Centuras get low, it starts to draw about 900mA (after draining them in the XM-L for 3 hours)

[Bullzeyebill]

Mr Floppy, it looks like you answered your question. The 4D mag is more efficient than the 3D when delivering voltage and current to the LED. Mags have some built in resistance, in switch, and tailcap. 4D's overcome that resistance and deliver the specified current to the LED. A 3D with a shortened tailcap spring can hold 4C cells.

Bill

[GeoBruin]

While we're on the topic of Mag drop ins, I just this evening finished modding an XP-G D cell drop in with an XP-G2. It's awesome! I actually had a High CRI XP-G in there before so of course it's brighter but it's actually showing TWICE as much output (a little more actually) with the XP-G2. I'm getting around 15,000 lux with the DX orange peel reflector I have it in. This is the incandescent head mind you, not the deeper rebel. It would probably throw like crazy with one of those. I don't really need another Mag thrower however (I have a Lamda VP Turbo 2.0) so the orange peel reflector in the incan head actually puts out some usable spill and makes the light more usable in general. Now it's just a LOT brighter. Cannot wait for an XP-G2 Hound Dog.