Any word on the Eagletac D25 series clickys?

[zenbeam]

I can't get my D25LC2 to program is anyone else having trouble? I turn the light on with the head loose and tighten/loosen 3x and nothing, I've tried to do it very fast and I've tried it by tighten/loosen 4x. I don't know what I could be doing wrong.

I am able to do the moonlight thing with mine (I have now dubbed that the "moonlight maneuver") - which is considered a programmable action.

I have not actually tested out the memory function just yet. I find the instruction not so much confusing, but rather lacking information.


Memory Mode Questions -
So for memory mode, once you have "toggled" the memory function, will it always remember the last mode you were in when turning the light off - and therefore turn back on in that mode (low, med, high of group 1)? And being a "toggled" mode itself, this function will remain until you "undo" it?

[sspc]

I have not actually tested out the memory function just yet. I find the instruction not so much confusing, but rather lacking information.

Memory Mode Questions -
So for memory mode, once you have "toggled" the memory function, will it always remember the last mode you were in when turning the light off - and therefore turn back on in that mode (low, med, high of group 1)? And being a "toggled" mode itself, this function will remain until you "undo" it?

Based on Mike's (from Pacific Tactical Solutions) ad on the marketplace forum, mode memory is only available in the D25A2 and D25C.

"2) Mode memory* - remembers the last output in group 1. To toggle this setting, with head tightened, turn on the light, and repeat loose and tight three times. (* D25A2 clicky and C clicky only)"

[zenbeam]

Based on Mike's (from Pacific Tactical Solutions) ad on the marketplace forum, mode memory is only available in the D25A2 and D25C.

"2) Mode memory* - remembers the last output in group 1. To toggle this setting, with head tightened, turn on the light, and repeat loose and tight three times. (* D25A2 clicky and C clicky only)"

Glad I didn't spend any time yet experimenting with this! lol. Since I hadn't really focused all that hard on memory mode instructions, when I glanced at the (* D25A2 clicky and C clicky only), I took it to mean that it was NOT available in those lights - because heck, I have the deluxe model after all... lol. Well that's kewl, I didn't care if I had that ability or not. I like the UI just fine as is.

Thanks for the clarification!

[BlackhawkB]

I currently have the D25A mini twisty (with XPG-S2 then), and I am wondering if I should move to the clicky in order to get the XM-L led.
But the old one looks nicer to me, mainly because of the stainless steel ring in front in metal color, while the new one get it black.
Do you think the same ?

Is the XM-L a great improvement compared to the XPG-S2 ? (more flood but less throw ? Or same throw ? Greenish light due to the XM-L U2 ?)

[jhc37013]

1. D25 clickys always have 3 modes in group 1.
2. Only D25A2 and D25C have memory.

Ok thanks I guess I missed that info at CPFM, so the D25LC2 has no real moonlight or memory which is kind of a bummer but it's still a good light very bright and not much bigger than a Quark 123x2.

Now about the the turbo mode output drop, ET says on their website under the D25C2 it drops 20% after 90 secs. but I've checked it several times and it always drops in output just after 3mins, maybe the larger 2xcr123 models are 3mins because of their larger mass.

Waiting for someone else to confirm when their turbo mode drops in output, btw the drop appears to be the exact same output as high.

[zenbeam]

@blackhawkb
I have an original twisty (D25C) and at first, I thought I would really like the blackened stainless bezel and clips of the new clickies. But for sure, I always liked the natural stainless steel colored bezel and clip on my twisty. I thought it gave the series a very nice, unique look. When I first received my D25LC2 clicky, I had to more or less convince myself that the darkened stainless was a cool effect. But in being honest with myself, after some of the "oh cool my new clicky" effect calmed down, I have to say that without the natural stainless steel accents, it doesn't feel unique anymore. Instead it feels more or less like a whole new series but with an almost generic feel rather than a unique, if not fashionable feel like the twisty. You have to be secure in your macho to use a word like "fashionable" in a forum like this.

I don't want to field the XM-L U2 question. I will say that my twisty is an XP-G S2 and I love that beam - moderate flood, great throw for a tiny light, beautiful creamy white tint. My Fenix TK-21 has an XM-L U2 and with a much larger reflector, it throws damn great, but there is green in them thar lumens... lol. But I still love it. My D25LC2 clicky has a Neutral XM-L and is pretty floody I think because of the smaller head/reflector (as compared with the TK-21) - the throw isn't as significant and probably not as good as XP-G S2. So in general, with these D-series lights, the XM-L is more light, less throw. IMHO. And I opened this paragraph stating I didn't want to field the question... lol.

@jhc372849 (j/k)
I haven't experimented yet with my D25LC2 turbo mode in terms of how long before the drop, but I can confirm that while it may not have the memory mode feature, it does have the moon mode effect (actually able to dim all outputs in group 1 as per instructions) - it's just a question of opinion as to how many lumens equate to "moon mode" and therefore as to whether or not the programmed dimming of the group 1 outputs should actually be called "moon mode". But dimmed they can be.

[jhc37013]

@jhc372849 (j/k)
I haven't experimented yet with my D25LC2 turbo mode in terms of how long before the drop, but I can confirm that while it may not have the memory mode feature, it does have the moon mode effect (actually able to dim all outputs in group 1 as per instructions) - it's just a question of opinion as to how many lumens equate to "moon mode" and therefore as to whether or not the programmed dimming of the group 1 outputs should actually be called "moon mode". But dimmed they can be.

Yes now that know what I'm looking for I can see the difference in the low and medium mode when the moonlight mode is enabled but I wouldn't call it a moonlight mode, more of a energy saving mode. Thanks

[jhc37013]

I don't really like strobes and blinky modes but I'll have to say this light has one of the most annoying strobes I've ever seen in a light, it's the second one that really gets me, it's very very quick bright and slows it's frequency after a couple seconds and then a a second or two later picks back up to that really fast frequency.

I'm not even going to try and annoy my wife with this one.

[Danielight]

Ok thanks I guess I missed that info at CPFM, so the D25LC2 has no real moonlight or memory which is kind of a bummer but it's still a good light very bright and not much bigger than a Quark 123x2.

Now about the the turbo mode output drop, ET says on their website under the D25C2 it drops 20% after 90 secs. but I've checked it several times and it always drops in output just after 3mins, maybe the larger 2xcr123 models are 3mins because of their larger mass.

Waiting for someone else to confirm when their turbo mode drops in output, btw the drop appears to be the exact same output as high.

I have the D25LC2, running on an Orbtronic (Panasonic) 18650 3100mAh protected, and mine drops down from Turbo to High in about 90 seconds (per specs).

[jhc37013]

I have the D25LC2, running on an Orbtronic (Panasonic) 18650 3100mAh protected, and mine drops down from Turbo to High in about 90 seconds (per specs).

Well there seems to be some variation between samples for some reason because I've checked mine probably 7 or 8 times on primarys and 18650 and every time it goes from turbo to high at exactly 3mins 20secs.

[cyclesport]

[QUOTE=zenbeam;3936721]I am able to do the moonlight thing with mine (I have now dubbed that the "moonlight maneuver") - which is considered a programmable action.

I have not actually tested out the memory function just yet. I find the instruction not so much confusing, but rather lacking information.

jhc37013: Regarding your D25LC2’s inability to “toggle” into Moonlight mode…I have the same light and the moonlight mode is inaccessible for me too. This is a flaw and not by design since the EagleTac website clearly states the D25LC2 has this feature.

I bought the D25C and D25LC2 Clickys from Light Junction at the same time. The D25C clearly toggles from the default low position to moonlight (just guessing but I’d say low looks to be around 20 – 30 lumens and Moonlight is approx. 3 – 5 lumens…clearly a difference to the naked eye) by tightening and loosening the head three times as the manual states. *Since I use 16430’s in my D25C the remaining levels are Turbo, but when attempted with CR123 primaries the other modes drop as well, so this light functions as advertised. The D25LC2 won’t go into moonlight by toggling with 18650’s. I sent EagleTac an email regarding this problem and am awaiting an answer now.

Since my copy of the D25LC2 can’t access moonlight, I’m unable to see if it retains its memory if indeed I could get it to go into moonlight mode. The D25C does retain its memory whether it’s in low or moonlight. A very desirable feature in my IMO…so I’m hoping EagleTac will replace my defective light or head. BTW both of my lights are XM-L U2 in case that has an impact of their functionality.

[af112566]

blackhawkb,,,the d25a with the xm-l is very,very floody and a bit green on the lower setting,but pretty white at hi and turbo.its a great inside the house light,but theres no way it will out throw the xp-g version. i cant wait for the clicky xp-g to come out....

[af112566]

zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..

[BlackhawkB]

@blackhawkb
I have an original twisty (D25C) and at first, I thought I would really like the blackened stainless bezel and clips of the new clickies. But for sure, I always liked the natural stainless steel colored bezel and clip on my twisty. I thought it gave the series a very nice, unique look. When I first received my D25LC2 clicky, I had to more or less convince myself that the darkened stainless was a cool effect. But in being honest with myself, after some of the "oh cool my new clicky" effect calmed down, I have to say that without the natural stainless steel accents, it doesn't feel unique anymore. Instead it feels more or less like a whole new series but with an almost generic feel rather than a unique, if not fashionable feel like the twisty. You have to be secure in your macho to use a word like "fashionable" in a forum like this.

Thanks for the reply! Indeed the original D25 is like no other flashlight with its stainless steel bezel, that's why I bought it.

blackhawkb,,,the d25a with the xm-l is very,very floody and a bit green on the lower setting,but pretty white at hi and turbo.its a great inside the house light,but theres no way it will out throw the xp-g version. i cant wait for the clicky xp-g to come out....

I see, I guess XP-G leds might be better for small flashlight, it provides the best throw/flood ratio.

zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..

Oh really ?
In my D25A twisty, everything is glued together. There is no way to remove anything.

[zenbeam]

zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..

Could be interesting... but be careful. Good luck!

[salimoneus]

In my D25A twisty, everything is glued together. There is no way to remove anything.

That's incorrect, the stainless part of the D25A twisty bezel does indeed screw off by itself. It's tough to grip but it will come off allowing access to the lens, etc. At least that's how mine is.

[sspc]

Originally Posted by af112566
zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..

Oh really ?
In my D25A twisty, everything is glued together. There is no way to remove anything.

Try it again with a little more force. The ss bezel should unscrew. I have removed mine and placed a piece of color film over the lense to change the tint on mine.

[zenbeam]

I don't really like strobes and blinky modes but I'll have to say this light has one of the most annoying strobes I've ever seen in a light, it's the second one that really gets me, it's very very quick bright and slows it's frequency after a couple seconds and then a a second or two later picks back up to that really fast frequency.

I'm not even going to try and annoy my wife with this one.

I think the theory behind that highly erratic strobe is to prolong the effect of disorientation on a would be assailant or aggressor. And if they happen to be prone to epileptic seizure... they're going down!

But that erratic strobe is one of the hidden ones in group 1 yes? I still don't understand the tactical advantage of having hidden strobe modes - but I suppose there are other uses for strobe than just disorienting attackers.

I DO love how easy it is to access both Turbo mode AND the Strobe in group two (bezel tightened). Now that is tactical.

[salimoneus]

But that erratic strobe is one of the hidden ones in group 1 yes? I still don't understand the tactical advantage of having hidden strobe modes - but I suppose there are other uses for strobe than just disorienting attackers.

A moderate/slow strobe can be very useful as a directional/location device. For instance when nature calls at 3am on a camping trip, you can strobe out a tent light so you can easily find your way back without having to actually wake up and think

I personally find little value in a fast/tactical strobe mode, a simple defense for that is for the attacker to put a hand up blocking the direct light but leaving the target illuminated, plus it also disorients the holder/target/victim when they should be arming themselves with a real weapon or taking evasive action.

[BlackhawkB]

Originally Posted by af112566
zenbeam,,,the bezel on my d25a comes off very easily.im going to lightly sand and polish it to make it look more like the twisty version.ill try to post pics when im done..




Try it again with a little more force. The ss bezel should unscrew. I have removed mine and placed a piece of color film over the lense to change the tint on mine.

Awesome, I will try it again then.
Does it mean we can access the driver, and boost it ?

[jhc37013]

Since my copy of the D25LC2 can’t access moonlight, I’m unable to see if it retains its memory if indeed I could get it to go into moonlight mode. The D25C does retain its memory whether it’s in low or moonlight. A very desirable feature in my IMO…so I’m hoping EagleTac will replace my defective light or head. BTW both of my lights are XM-L U2 in case that has an impact of their functionality.

Read back through the thread starting at post #113 through about post #127, there is nothing wrong with our light's it's just the "moonlight" mode is onot really a true moonlight but only slightly dimmer than the other low mode. I think it was said one is 7 lumens and the other is 18, also with moonlight enabled you will notice a slightly dimmer medium mode.

The best way to see the difference is do a ceiling bounce test, also our light's are not suppose to have memory we just thought they did. I had it all wrong as well, for some reason I though the single cell D25's running on Li-ion was the one's which did not have a moonlight or memory.

[zenbeam]

Welper... Here is an update to my "clicky-D issues"... lol.

Disclaimer:
Illuminationgear.com is doing a great job and Tod is just left holding the ball after ET dumped some sloppy work on him and I'm sure other online retailers. My disappointment is with ET and specifically this new line of clicky-D's.

Today I got an email from Tod at IG stating that my replacement holster for the D25LC2 has shipped - along with a replacement D25C clicky converter tube. For those who missed it earlier in this thread, I'm the one who had the button pop off the holster and received the unservice-able clicky converter tube for my D25C twisty (the switch boot was bunched up under the tail cap and the switch plate had solder blobs right where there should be service holes used to unscrew the plate).

So far so good, but in that email Tod also had to give me the unfortunate news that ET had given to him regarding the unstable tailstanding. ET was going to ship Tod replacement tail caps to ship to those of us with the issue... was. ET it seems had deemed that the flaw was simply that the switch plate cover had been over tightened in lights with the issue causing the rubber switch boot to protrude enough to prevent stable tailstanding. So Tod had no choice (and believe me, I could tell he was not happy with ET's response to this issue) but to give me ET's brilliant suggestion to "unscrew the switch plate in the tail cap about 1/2 to 1 full turn" to restore tailstanding capability.

Well... it is easier for me now to paste in here my response to that after arriving home tonight and trying that suggestion out:

I managed to get that tail cap switch plate loosened enough to get a good tailstand. BUT.... it was a bear to get it to start to loosen in the first place and I did get some very minor scratches on the metal at and around the access holes. I had to turn it about a full turn to get a secure tailstand, but then the light started flickering from poor contact. So I tightened the switch plate somewhat and got a "mildy wobbly yet better than before" tailstand - and no flicker. But even at this adjustment, I don't feel that the switch plate is secure enough to prevent coming loose with some use and the light flickering again, wash rinse repeat. A tail cap switch plate should be tight and secure anyway - no?

Quite frankly, I believe the engineering is off. The D25C twisty and theP20A2 MKII that I own are both perfectly engineered from top to bottom. And for the price of this light, I expect to NOT have to either give up an advertised feature that factored in to my overall purchase decision (secure tailstand) or go around re-tightening the tail cap switch plate periodically to maintain proper contact for light function.


I do want you to know that I want to do business with you now and in the future. And while I may ramble on sometimes, I am not always this picky as a customer. If these products were built right in the first place, I would have nothing to say except, "what do I want next from illuminationgear.com?"


Ultimately, at this point, I am so disillusioned with the D25LC2 Clicky (NOT you) and to a certain extent EagleTac as a manufacturer - I would really like to exchange this light altogether for something else from your store.

Again - I hope you can tell by the tone of my email response above that I know Tod and illuminationgear is not at fault whatsoever and I totally appreciate everything Tod has done in the name of customer service - he has done excellently for that matter and this is my first transaction with him - and it won't be my last (if he will have me as a customer after all this... lol).

So at this point, I am really hoping that the clicky converter tube replacement that is on the way to me now, will be in great shape. I really liked having my twisty D25C converted to a clicky - very kewl. And if Tod will let me exchange that D25LC2 Clicky, I will get a tried and true product from his store. Maybe never to re-consider another clicky-D model? Hmmmmmmmm.......

[Erik1213]

Have any of you pre-ordered from eagletac-usa.com? If so, have you received a shipping notice for your lights? I ordered 4/16 and have not received any word yet.

[jhc37013]

ET could probably have a fix with just a new switch and boot or maybe even one or the other with just a newly designed boot possibly a little thinner, but unfortunately this is nothing new, well maybe new to ET but it's happened over and over again with other manufactures.

Just like ET there was always word a fix will come but I don't recall it ever happening, I've never understood how this could pass as ok especially if it is announced as a feature of the light. btw my D25LC2 wobbles as well

[zenbeam]

And I almost forgot in all this that I started by ordering a D25LC2 with the new XT-E R5 emitter - which as we know was rejected by more than one retailer and shipped back to ET. That was a disappointment from the start.

ET USA now has all of their XT-E R5 clicky-D listings labeled as "sold out". I saw that and thought, "oh... right". None of the other emitter models are listed as such. Why not just post up that they're having technical difficulties with that emitter?

BTW, it took almost a solid week from the time ETUSA (aka PTS) agreed to cancel and refund my pre-order to the time I actually got credit back to my PayPal account. I wonder how much scrambling they'e had to do to deal with pre-orders for models with the XT-E R5? They should learn a lesson from Amazon and not charge anything until the unit ships to the customer.

[BlackhawkB]

I finally succeded in removing the bezel of my D25. I can also remove the reflector and get to the LED.
Anyone knows how to remove the driver ? It seems it has to be removed from the battery size, not the front size, but how ?
I definitely would like to boost my D25 on AA

[Animalmother]

What was wrong with XTE emitter??? I had such high hopes for this emitter.

[zenbeam]

What was wrong with XTE emitter??? I had such high hopes for this emitter.

According to illuminationgear, they returned their whole batch of XT-E models to ET due to splotchy beam patterns with yellow and other off colors strewn about in the beam. Okay... so that's based on general recollection, not an exact quote - but I think the original post is in this very thread a few pages back.

[zenbeam]

And this whole saga has worked out with a happy ending. Tod with illuminationgear is a verified merchant of excellence. And EagleTac hasn't completely lost my faith in them.

I got my D25C clicky converter tube replaced and the new one seemed to be of EagleTac quality this time around - the switch boot was properly seated and there was very little machine-dust on the finish (and no signs of worn anodizing). The little bits of solder that seemed to prevent user service inside the tail cap are still there, but you know.. I think it is just part of the design and if you take good care of it, you may never really need to go in there anyway. My D25C "twisty" is now a "clicky" and I get to continue using that great XP-G S2 and enjoy those wonderfully silver colored stainless steel bezel and clip parts!

And so since I now have a "custom clicky", it made it even easier to return my D25LC2 clicky for a refund. Yup. It turned out there simply was no solid fix for the tail stand issue. I originally wanted the XT-E R5 anyway and it turned out I didn't care too greatly for the new color of the stainless steel parts after all. So I returned the whole thing, including the replacement holster that Tod w/illuminationgear had shipped out to me so lightning fast!

So how do I fill the void left by returning the D25LC2 clicky? Oops... too late... Once I knew I was shipping it back (it went out tonight as a matter of fact), I turned around and ordered a Zebralight SC600 in Cool White from illuminationgear.com - also shipped lightning fast and as of today in fact, it is sitting right in front of me as I type.

And he rode off into the sunset in search of his next quality control dilemma to solve...


And seriously... many thanks to Tod @ illuminationgear.com for dealing so very straightforward with me in resolving these issues!

And EagleTac.... I haven't given up on you just yet... After all, I still read at night with my diffused P2OA2 MKII. But let's get that QC dept. back on track eh?

Welper... Here is an update to my "clicky-D issues"... lol.

Disclaimer:
Illuminationgear.com is doing a great job and Tod is just left holding the ball after ET dumped some sloppy work on him and I'm sure other online retailers. My disappointment is with ET and specifically this new line of clicky-D's.

Today I got an email from Tod at IG stating that my replacement holster for the D25LC2 has shipped - along with a replacement D25C clicky converter tube. For those who missed it earlier in this thread, I'm the one who had the button pop off the holster and received the unservice-able clicky converter tube for my D25C twisty (the switch boot was bunched up under the tail cap and the switch plate had solder blobs right where there should be service holes used to unscrew the plate).

So far so good, but in that email Tod also had to give me the unfortunate news that ET had given to him regarding the unstable tailstanding. ET was going to ship Tod replacement tail caps to ship to those of us with the issue... was. ET it seems had deemed that the flaw was simply that the switch plate cover had been over tightened in lights with the issue causing the rubber switch boot to protrude enough to prevent stable tailstanding. So Tod had no choice (and believe me, I could tell he was not happy with ET's response to this issue) but to give me ET's brilliant suggestion to "unscrew the switch plate in the tail cap about 1/2 to 1 full turn" to restore tailstanding capability.

Well... it is easier for me now to paste in here my response to that after arriving home tonight and trying that suggestion out:




Again - I hope you can tell by the tone of my email response above that I know Tod and illuminationgear is not at fault whatsoever and I totally appreciate everything Tod has done in the name of customer service - he has done excellently for that matter and this is my first transaction with him - and it won't be my last (if he will have me as a customer after all this... lol).

So at this point, I am really hoping that the clicky converter tube replacement that is on the way to me now, will be in great shape. I really liked having my twisty D25C converted to a clicky - very kewl. And if Tod will let me exchange that D25LC2 Clicky, I will get a tried and true product from his store. Maybe never to re-consider another clicky-D model? Hmmmmmmmm.......

[Animalmother]

According to illuminationgear, they returned their whole batch of XT-E models to ET due to splotchy beam patterns with yellow and other off colors strewn about in the beam. Okay... so that's based on general recollection, not an exact quote - but I think the original post is in this very thread a few pages back.

I just read it, that's a bummer
I hope they get worked out, well... whatever is going on that is. I was very curious about the beam profile but can understand why they sent them back.
I hope it all gets worked out. I still have hopes for the emitter.

Thank you for the reply.