Jetbeam tcr 01 is out

[kaichu dento]

Doesn't the JB TCR3 have the Ti button at the tail? Did people ever complain about it for something similar?

Had a couple TCR2's, but don't remember much about them since I got rid of them right away. I can definitely say though that the titanium finish work that JetBeam does is light years ahead of what Sunwayman turns out.

[senna94]

Had a couple TCR2's, but don't remember much about them since I got rid of them right away. I can definitely say though that the titanium finish work that JetBeam does is light years ahead of what Sunwayman turns out.

+1

[fyrstormer]

I love Ti lights and much prefer the TCR-1 over my recently received Sunwayman V10R Ti+ with the truly galling pita switch, which tuned out to be a disappointment. JetBeam proved to be smart enough to go for a pure rotary switch with no galling of Ti on a Ti clicky, smart move!

The ring on the TC-R1 is Ti-on-Ti, and the threads are Ti-on-Ti as well. There is plenty of opportunity for galling on this light, if it isn't lubricated properly.

[fyrstormer]

The problem with the V10R switch has less to do with the metal on metal contact than it does with poor execution - too short a distance for contact to keep it from tilting, too loose on the fit, exacerbating the first problem, and poor finishing.

The V10R needs an O-ring around the switch cover, to keep it centered in the retaining ring. That would eliminate the problem completely. I have a couple other lights with Ti switch covers and this is the way they prevent the switch scraping against the retaining ring.

[somnambulated]

The V10R needs an O-ring around the switch cover, to keep it centered in the retaining ring. That would eliminate the problem completely. I have a couple other lights with Ti switch covers and this is the way they prevent the switch scraping against the retaining ring.

Sounds like that would be the simplest, most fool-proof fix for Ti on Ti.

Also, I have to agree with the other forum members who said it: I don't really see the point of a keychain attachment on a light this size. Sure, you can put a split ring in it and add a lanyard (I like short lanyards on small lights, just a piece of Paracord with a knot), but the lights ported large enough to accept a strand of Paracord seem more practical to me.

Oh, and the only other drawback to owning a TCR-1: I really need to order a safe queen like I keep saying. The light is just too nice not to use, and too nice to not have a backup!

[fyrstormer]

That's how I feel about my TC-R2 and my Ti Aeon; I've got backup lights chilling in my fire safe, just in case. The TC-R1 is a nice light and I think it will prove to be very durable, but using it for a few days has confirmed that I really prefer my EDC to have a button and a clip. My TC-R1 will definitely get used, but I'll have to hunt around for the perfect spot to put it so I can use it on a regular basis.

I like the way polished titanium looks, but I think it's actually counterproductive to polish a tool that's meant to be used, if the polish isn't necessary for proper functioning. The polished finish makes the TC-R1 seem like it's more delicate than it really is; I doubt you'll actually need a backup, except in case of loss of course.

[kaichu dento]

The V10R needs an O-ring around the switch cover, to keep it centered in the retaining ring. That would eliminate the problem completely. I have a couple other lights with Ti switch covers and this is the way they prevent the switch scraping against the retaining ring.

That would be one way to address the problem, but sufficeient linear bearing surface with better finish and tolerances would work well enough too.

[Darksoul]

Hello everbody! A week ago i received my TC-R1. Here are some pictures:

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1101/0001bm.jpg
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/2135/0002dp.jpg




[IMG]http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5462/0005re.jpg
The low is indeed really low!


http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8228/0007al.jpg


I use AW ICR123, but if i put him from off tho the highest output the light goes off.
Is this because the led need more amp's then te battery can deliver?

I'm waiting for my AW IMR 18350's, will that solve the problem?

But what a little nice light is this! Overal very happy with it!


Your images are too large and have been replaced with links Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm

[fyrstormer]

Yes, the battery will shut off if you pull too much power from it. However, I use the same battery and I have no issues. Try an unprotected battery to see if it also causes the light to shut off on the highest setting.

[ClassicGOD]

Got my TCR1 (#264/1000) the same day the forums went down so I hadn't had a chance to share my first impressions.

I didn't like how it looks in the photos but it looks much better in person. Finish on the light is almost perfect but when I got mine the ring was very stiff and gritty. In fact it was so gritty that it was impossible to feel the notches at the beginning and end of the rotation and the brightness regulation was jumpy. Thankfully it gets better with use and with some hot soapy water and few drops of Krytox the stiffness is gone and the ring is almost buttery smooth. I've tested the light in my pocket through entire day of walking and had no accidental activations even with the loosened and smoothed out ring.

The light seems to have no problem with staying on on the highest brightness. I've tested it for 2 minutes with freshly off the charge AW ICR 16340, used AW ICR 16340 and with new Sanyo primary CR123. It got quite hot with 16340s but it didn't shut off. I had battery contact issues (the flashlight would blink when shaken) and had to clean the contacts in the flashlight, after that everything was ok. At one point while playing with it I thought that it is shutting off but it turns out I accidentally accessed SOS mode

Overall I'm very pleased with the light and It seems to be much higher quality than V10R Ti+ that I got before the JetBeam and had to send it back because of the damaged reflector (I was willing to overlook the rest of this light problems but glue on the surface of the reflector is hard to ignore.) Now I'm happy it was damaged because if I didn't send it back I would not have bought a great little light that is TCR1.

[mohanjude]

Had a couple TCR2's, but don't remember much about them since I got rid of them right away. I can definitely say though that the titanium finish work that JetBeam does is light years ahead of what Sunwayman turns out.

I have the TCr3 and it does have a titanium switch with a trit slot. It does not grate - it is engineered better than the SVM switch.

[Darksoul]

What is the best way to lube the selector ring...?

I have tried nyogel 779zc and bluelube. But both don't work very well.
Nyogel 779zc is to thick to penetrate, and blue lube is to thin..

What lube do you suggest me to make the ring very smooth? And
what is the best way to lube it?

[pobox1475]

What is the best way to lube the selector ring...?

I have tried nyogel 779zc and bluelube. But both don't work very well.
Nyogel 779zc is to thick to penetrate, and blue lube is to thin..

What lube do you suggest me to make the ring very smooth? And
what is the best way to lube it?

My go to is NyoGel 760G.

[Triac]

FWIW, the Protected Trustfire 18350's (black, red & gold label) don't fit the TC-R1. Diameter is fine but they are too long. With the head fully tightened, half of the red o-ring on the body is still exposed.

[correspondent]

I got my TC-R1 about three weeks ago and am currently using AW 16340's and AW IMR 16340's for it. I've been considering acquiring a couple of AW IMR 18350's. Will this fit? It's also good that i read the post of Darksoul about Nyogel779zc not working on solving the gritty Ti on Ti control ring issue of the TC-R1. I was about to try to lube it with my Nyogel.

[Fitz]

I got my TC-R1 about three weeks ago and am currently using AW 16340's and AW IMR 16340's for it. I've been considering acquiring a couple of AW IMR 18350's. Will this fit? It's also good that i read the post of Darksoul about Nyogel779zc not working on solving the gritty Ti on Ti control ring issue of the TC-R1. I was about to try to lube it with my Nyogel.

AW IMR 18350's fit and function just fine.

[aau007]

I got my TC-R1 about three weeks ago and am currently using AW 16340's and AW IMR 16340's for it. I've been considering acquiring a couple of AW IMR 18350's. Will this fit? It's also good that i read the post of Darksoul about Nyogel779zc not working on solving the gritty Ti on Ti control ring issue of the TC-R1. I was about to try to lube it with my Nyogel.

I got the AW IMR 18350 and it fits fine in the light. In fact, I think they should advertise this light for 18350 with 16340 compatibility. AW protected 16340, AW IMR 16340, AW IMR 18350 and Ultrafire 16340 all work.

JB should make 2 extenders.
1. AA extender to use AA size batteries, including the 14500.
2. 18650 extender or replacement body, for those who want extended runtime to trade for a slightly long body.

[correspondent]

Thanks guys for the info! Just wanted to be sure. And i agree that they should mention the IMR 18350 compatibility on the spec sheet of the the TC-R1. AA and 18650 extenders would be ideal in making it a lot more versatile.

[petr9999]

Does anyone else experience the same?
-flashes off randomly (every 10-60 seconds) when it is at full or near full brightness on rechargables, i have tried 4 different batteries including AW IMR 16340 and Ultrafire 18350


here is a short demonstration http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXUKxTF5ZXQ


-Low voltage cut off does not work, when i tried unprotected rechargable lion batteries, the flashlight has drained them to 1.8v~ before i interupted

[dlmorgan999]

-Low voltage cut off does not work, when i tried unprotected rechargable lion batteries, the flashlight has drained them to 1.8v~ before i interupted

Yeah - I discovered this the hard way yesterday. Put the light in my pocket for EDC. Went to use it and got nothing. Realized that it wasn't actually completely off when I went to turn it on. Measured the battery when I got home - .5 volts.

[petr9999]

at least it can be used in an emergency situation better... fortunately my batteries charged up no problem(under constant watch)...

but i guess i would not even dare to charge a .5v battery... what brand was it?

so does anyone have a problem with their lights flashing off?

[fyrstormer]

Does anyone else experience the same?
-flashes off randomly (every 10-60 seconds) when it is at full or near full brightness on rechargables, i have tried 4 different batteries including AW IMR 16340 and Ultrafire 18350


here is a short demonstration http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXUKxTF5ZXQ


-Low voltage cut off does not work, when i tried unprotected rechargable lion batteries, the flashlight has drained them to 1.8v~ before i interupted

I bought two lights. One shows the flickering behavior, the other works perfectly. The flickering one is being replaced by the vendor.

Does the TC-R1 actually have a built-in low-voltage cutoff? I wasn't aware.

[aau007]

[QUOTE=fyrstormer;3941120Does the TC-R1 actually have a built-in low-voltage cutoff? I wasn't aware.[/QUOTE]

If it does, it is so low that it will kill your lithium rechargeables. I tapped an Eneloop to the light and it would keep the light was still on when the Eneloop dropped to 0.8v.

So, the way to tell. If the brightness does not increase any more after you turn your control ring half way, time to recharge your battery.

[fyrstormer]

Or just use a protected battery.

[dlmorgan999]

but i guess i would not even dare to charge a .5v battery... what brand was it?

Unfortunately, it was an AW IMR 18350 - so no slouch. I've learned my lesson and I'm ordering a replacement soon.

[petr9999]

Ah, thank you, it is assuring that not all of them have this problem,


i guess it does not have a low voltage cutoff, i probably got confused by

post 301: At 3.1v, 0.9A, at 3.0v, 0.85A. Then at about 2.45v, the light went into rapid flashing and shut down

[fyrstormer]

I've seen my TC-R1 rapidly flicker and then shut off when a protected battery was run down to the point of needing a recharge. However, I think the rapid flickering may actually be caused by "voltage bounce" as the battery's protection circuit kicks in for a split second, allowing the voltage to recover a tiny bit, and then the battery's protection circuit shuts off again for another split second before the power drain drops the voltage once more. I say this because when it happens, I can shut the light off for a few seconds, then turn it back on, and it will run for a few seconds before repeating the flicker-then-shutdown behavior again. Repeat 2-3x, and then the light won't turn on at all. I haven't seen similar behavior with an unprotected cell.

[aau007]

i guess it does not have a low voltage cutoff, i probably got confused by

post 301: At 3.1v, 0.9A, at 3.0v, 0.85A. Then at about 2.45v, the light went into rapid flashing and shut down

I've seen my TC-R1 rapidly flicker and then shut off when a protected battery was run down to the point of needing a recharge.

Ah yes. That was using a protected battery. I think it was the protected battery circuit cutting in that turned off the light, NOT any low voltage cutoff by the light. As I stated also, I tapped an AA Eneloop and the light was still on when the voltage dropped to 0.85v on the Eneloop.

[Darksoul]

If i understand it right:

If the brightness does not increase any more after i turn my control ring half way, and i use a AW IMR 18350,
i need to immediately put off my light? Because i will damage my battery then?

I thought a AW IMR 18350 was protected against that?

[aau007]

If i understand it right:

If the brightness does not increase any more after i turn my control ring half way, and i use a AW IMR 18350,
i need to immediately put off my light? Because i will damage my battery then?

I thought a AW IMR 18350 was protected against that?

AW IMR batteries are not circuit protected.

You don't NEED to immediate turn off the light but that's a good indicator you battery is at least half way drained. Keep in mind this half drained battery guesstimation has no relation to turning the control ring half way.

The general idea is that if your light refuses to brighten up even half way to max, that tells you you need to go charge the battery.