V10R Ti hcri MULE (up and running)

think2x

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Okay guys,

EDIT: See post #24 for Nichia set up.

Thanks to a thread started a couple of months back by CPF member mandat I got this idea in my head and it just wouldn't go away so.........I just have to do this mod! I decided to do this mod on my V10 Ti because I just don't have a McGizmo budget just yet and would love a nice HCRI flood light. This is a work in progress and I will update as it comes together.

I still haven't fully decided yet whether to use the XP-G HCRI I already have or get the Nichia HCRI that shares the same footprint as the XP-G. What do you guys think?

First off, sorry for not getting pictures from step one, I kinda got into it and forgot.

Here is the "bucket" I constructed out of a scrap of copper pipe cap. It wasn't even close to the right size and I didn't use anything more than a dremel and a hack saw to do all the trimming. I cut the band of copper off the cap and wrapped it around the head of a socket from my tool set that had the diameter I needed and clamped it in my cheap little vice then soldered it back together. I then trimmed down the flat of the pipe cap to the rough size of the base (18mm) and soldered that to the newly made ring to complete the "bucket" and then filed and sanded until it was the way you see it in the pic. In the pic is also a small cube of aluminum the rough size I need for the pedestal.



Next I rounded the little cube off and mocked it up in the light to get a final height I needed to trim it down too. It then went into the vice and I used the hack saw to notch it for the wires to run up to the emitter.


Test fitting the pedestal, looks like it will work nicely.



The emitter bucket sits nice and flush with the lip of the head.



Here it is with the bezel screwed down, no wiggle room.



Here is a mock up with the factory emitter board (too small) and fingerprints all over the lens. When my 14mm board gets here it will fill in most of the bucket and should look nice when complete.





As I type this the bucket and pedestal are being joined together with Arctic Alumina 2 part Epoxy. I still need to drill the holes for the emitter wire to run down to the driver and sand,sand,sand and polish everything that is going to be visible or find some way to dress it up for the finished product.


That's all I've got for now,

Jamie
 
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Mattaus

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Re: V10R Ti hcri MULE (in progress)

I say go for the Nichia emitter....I can't remember where I saw it, but someone was comparing the Hi CRI XP-G against the Nichia and the Nichia was MUCH better.

Also took me ages to figure out what you were doing with that pedestal and then I remembered it's a mule now, so there's no reflector. Looks good so far. Might want to anodize/seal the copper though other wise it will tarnish and look a little cruddy...
 

think2x

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Re: V10R Ti hcri MULE (in progress)

I say go for the Nichia emitter....I can't remember where I saw it, but someone was comparing the Hi CRI XP-G against the Nichia and the Nichia was MUCH better.

Also took me ages to figure out what you were doing with that pedestal and then I remembered it's a mule now, so there's no reflector. Looks good so far. Might want to anodize/seal the copper though other wise it will tarnish and look a little cruddy...

Yeah, I guess I could have mentioned that it no longer has a reflector. I have also thought of possibly mixing glow powder and epoxy to coat the copper. :shrug:
 

Mattaus

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Re: V10R Ti hcri MULE (in progress)

Yeah, I guess I could have mentioned that it no longer has a reflector. I have also thought of possibly mixing glow powder and epoxy to coat the copper. :shrug:

Silver anodizing would look the nicest, but only if you finish the copper nicely. Glow powder would probably finish the easiest...probably look pretty cool as well.
 

kaichu dento

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Re: V10R Ti hcri MULE (in progress)

I've got a MillerMods Arc-AA that got a particularly thick glow powder treatment for it's reflector area and the amount of light it can put out for an extended period is incredible. With the size of area in the V10R head available I'd expect it be not only a great little night light, but also be enough to find the bathroom by.
 

think2x

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Re: V10R Ti hcri MULE (in progress)

So....I got a little impatient and really wanted to see how it was gonna look. As it sits I think it looks pretty good considering the only thing I have invested in it is labor and scrap parts I already had. For now it has a medium gray finish on the bucket and a white 14mm emitter board with the XP-G HCRI I already had installed in the light. I think it needs a 16mm board myself so I might put a Nichia on a 16mm and swap it in the near future.


[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/dsc03366r.jpg/]




I[/URL]mageshack is wigging out on me, this is all I can get for now but I really like the ALL FLOOD pattern this thing emits. :twothumbs
 
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blackbalsam

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Re: V10R Ti hcri MULE (in progress)

Jamie, I want one. Nice work as always....Robert.
 

think2x

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Re: V10R Ti hcri MULE *NOW WITH NICHIA 219*

Here's as close as I can get to a before and after.

This is my HCRI (same emitter) modded Quark AA 3 feet from the wall



And here's my HCRI V10R Ti from the same 3 feet.
 
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DaFABRICATA

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I like your modification! Looks very nice! Seeing your light helped motivate me to finally put the high CRI xp-g in mine as well....and glad I did!

The use of the space where the reflector was to add a LOT more heatsink is great! these things get HOT quickly!
Have you noticed if your heatsink helped it?
 

think2x

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I like your modification! Looks very nice! Seeing your light helped motivate me to finally put the high CRI xp-g in mine as well....and glad I did!

The use of the space where the reflector was to add a LOT more heatsink is great! these things get HOT quickly!
Have you noticed if your heatsink helped it?

I haven't had time to really run the light much to tell, when I posted yesterday I literally just got it back together and fired it up. The HCRI emitters are great in these variable output lights aren't they? I really like how you took an already small light and made it even smaller, though to be honest I would have preferred all Ti but that's just me.
I will try and give my light a workout the next few days and see how the heat management is on it and then post back.

Jamie
 

Mattaus

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I haven't had time to really run the light much to tell, when I posted yesterday I literally just got it back together and fired it up. The HCRI emitters are great in these variable output lights aren't they? I really like how you took an already small light and made it even smaller, though to be honest I would have preferred all Ti but that's just me.
I will try and give my light a workout the next few days and see how the heat management is on it and then post back.

Jamie

So you went with the XP-G over the Nichia obviously...anyone know what the max drive current is on these V10's?
 

think2x

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So you went with the XP-G over the Nichia obviously...anyone know what the max drive current is on these V10's?

I've only went with it for the time being. Really wanted to see how the flood was. Now that I have tried it I'm planning on the Nichia on a 16mm board.
 

think2x

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Have you noticed if your heatsink helped it?

I just did a quick 20 minute run on max in tailstanding mode. AT the 10 minute mark it was warm but not uncomfortable to hold, rechecked at the 20 minute mark and it wasn't any hotter, still warm but comfortable. This was freestanding on my dresser in a 68 degree room with a cr123 primary cell.

Jamie
 

hank

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Can you start from a cube of copper instead of aluminum? (or get a piece of copper rod)
If so that ought to improve the heatsinking further.
 

kaichu dento

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Can you start from a cube of copper instead of aluminum? (or get a piece of copper rod)
If so that ought to improve the heatsinking further.
You can get 10' lengths of solid copper grounding rod in a couple different diameters from a building supply!
 

mohanjude

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Very nice mod. I think it is very useful to vary the brightness using the Control ring. Do you think you might even contomeplate puting a small aspeherical lens on the bezel to make it look like a McG Sundrop if you decided you wanted a bit of throw in the future?
 

think2x

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You can get 10' lengths of solid copper grounding rod in a couple different diameters from a building supply!

Actually grounding rods are regular steel plated in copper, I've used quite a few of them in 13 years of Electrical work. I'll try and research copper rod stock soon.

Jamie
 
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