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Thread: Help Identifying Eiger Marking

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    Enlightened pmek5's Avatar
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    Default Help Identifying Eiger Marking

    Could not find a thread to answer this - I have an Eiger Head with an "N" on the battery contact. Can you please tell me what the "N" is for. This came with a 10180. It is a heck of a lot brighter than my level 1 I currently run on my 10180.
    The True Light - John 1:9-13
    My Lights - Ra Clicky 120 EDC; Peak Eiger(s) Brass 10180, HAIII 2xAAA Penlight ; Nitecore D10 Tribute

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    Flashaholic Theatre Booth Guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help Identifying Eiger Marking

    Quote Originally Posted by pmek5 View Post
    Could not find a thread to answer this - I have an Eiger Head with an "N" on the battery contact. Can you please tell me what the "N" is for. This came with a 10180. It is a heck of a lot brighter than my level 1 I currently run on my 10180.
    Normal maybe? They did have L for low, S for super, U for ultra and it seems like there was something for ultra-low. Out of what I listed, regular power seems missing thus, my N for normal guess.

    Someone here has to know. The new number system is much easier
    Brian

    After getting an HDS, other flashlights seem much less relevant (Except for some of the really special lights found on CPF!)
    When things are really dark, a dim light for a long time is much better than a blinding light for a short time.

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    Default Re: Help Identifying Eiger Marking

    It is probably a newer neutral LED model. N for Neutral.
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    Flashaholic* archimedes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jabe1 View Post
    It is probably a newer neutral LED model. N for Neutral.
    I would agree with jabe, especially if you are pretty sure this is a newer LE (& came with the 10180 QTC tube originally). If so, this would be equivalent to a "#8" (max) in the prior system.

    Most of the other letter stamps were for the original system, which pre-dates even the number system....
    Last edited by archimedes; 04-17-2012 at 04:22 PM.
    IF 2 = 1 THEN 1 = 0

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    Enlightened pmek5's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help Identifying Eiger Marking

    I have an older Level 1 head which works great with an AW 10180 battery. With this head it comes on at a level 8 (using the old number system), and then drops to about a level 4 or 5 after five seconds. Will this battery work alright without a QTC (this is just a standard 10180 body that came with it)?
    The True Light - John 1:9-13
    My Lights - Ra Clicky 120 EDC; Peak Eiger(s) Brass 10180, HAIII 2xAAA Penlight ; Nitecore D10 Tribute

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    Flashaholic* archimedes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theatre Booth Guy View Post
    Normal maybe? They did have L for low, S for super, U for ultra and it seems like there was something for ultra-low. Out of what I listed, regular power seems missing thus, my N for normal guess.

    Someone here has to know. The new number system is much easier
    I think that "H" (high) was what was actually originally used for "normal"
    IF 2 = 1 THEN 1 = 0

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    Flashaholic* archimedes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmek5 View Post
    I have an older Level 1 head which works great with an AW 10180 battery. With this head it comes on at a level 8 (using the old number system), and then drops to about a level 4 or 5 after five seconds. Will this battery work alright without a QTC (this is just a standard 10180 body that came with it)?
    There are (at least) two reasons for the output drop you've noted - voltage sag from the significant current draw on the tiny 10180 cell, and minimal mass for heat-sinking on such a small light affecting the emitter temperature.
    IF 2 = 1 THEN 1 = 0

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    Enlightened pmek5's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help Identifying Eiger Marking

    Quote Originally Posted by archimedes View Post
    There are (at least) two reasons for the output drop you've noted - voltage sag from the significant current draw on the tiny 10180 cell, and minimal mass for heat-sinking on such a small light affecting the emitter temperature.
    I understand the voltage sag, but the other I don't. Is the second explanation going to harm anything? I got to believe Peak would not have sent a set-up that was not going to work properly.
    The True Light - John 1:9-13
    My Lights - Ra Clicky 120 EDC; Peak Eiger(s) Brass 10180, HAIII 2xAAA Penlight ; Nitecore D10 Tribute

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    Flashaholic* archimedes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmek5 View Post
    I understand the voltage sag, but the other I don't. Is the second explanation going to harm anything? I got to believe Peak would not have sent a set-up that was not going to work properly.
    Well, one advantage of the QTC is that you don't have to always run "full-blast".

    The 10180 cell will not provide very much runtime at max, so thermal effects on the emitter may be somewhat limited just due to that fact (but excess heat is not good for LED longevity, in general).

    If it's getting too hot to hold comfortably, it's probably not great for the emitter....
    IF 2 = 1 THEN 1 = 0

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    Flashaholic Theatre Booth Guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help Identifying Eiger Marking

    Quote Originally Posted by archimedes View Post
    I think that "H" (high) was what was actually originally used for "normal"
    I think so - thank you for jogging my memory
    Brian

    After getting an HDS, other flashlights seem much less relevant (Except for some of the really special lights found on CPF!)
    When things are really dark, a dim light for a long time is much better than a blinding light for a short time.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Help Identifying Eiger Marking

    With the advent of the QTC, Peak is shifting away from power levels (1-8) and to LED indication:

    C - cool
    N - neutral
    H - high cri
    R - red

  12. #12
    Flashaholic* archimedes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElectronGuru View Post
    With the advent of the QTC, Peak is shifting away from power levels (1-8) and to LED indication:

    C - cool
    N - neutral
    H - high cri
    R - red
    ... and:

    X - eXtreme
    IF 2 = 1 THEN 1 = 0

  13. #13
    Enlightened pmek5's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help Identifying Eiger Marking

    I am still puzzeled how well this will work not being a QTC, and a standard AW 10180 battery.
    The True Light - John 1:9-13
    My Lights - Ra Clicky 120 EDC; Peak Eiger(s) Brass 10180, HAIII 2xAAA Penlight ; Nitecore D10 Tribute

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