Help Identifying Eiger Marking

[pmek5]

Could not find a thread to answer this - I have an Eiger Head with an "N" on the battery contact. Can you please tell me what the "N" is for. This came with a 10180. It is a heck of a lot brighter than my level 1 I currently run on my 10180.

[Theatre Booth Guy]

Could not find a thread to answer this - I have an Eiger Head with an "N" on the battery contact. Can you please tell me what the "N" is for. This came with a 10180. It is a heck of a lot brighter than my level 1 I currently run on my 10180.

Normal maybe? They did have L for low, S for super, U for ultra and it seems like there was something for ultra-low. Out of what I listed, regular power seems missing thus, my N for normal guess.

Someone here has to know. The new number system is much easier

[jabe1]

It is probably a newer neutral LED model. N for Neutral.

[archimedes]

It is probably a newer neutral LED model. N for Neutral.

I would agree with jabe, especially if you are pretty sure this is a newer LE (& came with the 10180 QTC tube originally). If so, this would be equivalent to a "#8" (max) in the prior system.

Most of the other letter stamps were for the original system, which pre-dates even the number system....

[pmek5]

I have an older Level 1 head which works great with an AW 10180 battery. With this head it comes on at a level 8 (using the old number system), and then drops to about a level 4 or 5 after five seconds. Will this battery work alright without a QTC (this is just a standard 10180 body that came with it)?

[archimedes]

Normal maybe? They did have L for low, S for super, U for ultra and it seems like there was something for ultra-low. Out of what I listed, regular power seems missing thus, my N for normal guess.

Someone here has to know. The new number system is much easier

I think that "H" (high) was what was actually originally used for "normal"

[archimedes]

I have an older Level 1 head which works great with an AW 10180 battery. With this head it comes on at a level 8 (using the old number system), and then drops to about a level 4 or 5 after five seconds. Will this battery work alright without a QTC (this is just a standard 10180 body that came with it)?

There are (at least) two reasons for the output drop you've noted - voltage sag from the significant current draw on the tiny 10180 cell, and minimal mass for heat-sinking on such a small light affecting the emitter temperature.

[pmek5]

There are (at least) two reasons for the output drop you've noted - voltage sag from the significant current draw on the tiny 10180 cell, and minimal mass for heat-sinking on such a small light affecting the emitter temperature.

I understand the voltage sag, but the other I don't. Is the second explanation going to harm anything? I got to believe Peak would not have sent a set-up that was not going to work properly.

[archimedes]

I understand the voltage sag, but the other I don't. Is the second explanation going to harm anything? I got to believe Peak would not have sent a set-up that was not going to work properly.

Well, one advantage of the QTC is that you don't have to always run "full-blast".

The 10180 cell will not provide very much runtime at max, so thermal effects on the emitter may be somewhat limited just due to that fact (but excess heat is not good for LED longevity, in general).

If it's getting too hot to hold comfortably, it's probably not great for the emitter....

[Theatre Booth Guy]

I think that "H" (high) was what was actually originally used for "normal"

I think so - thank you for jogging my memory

[ElectronGuru]

With the advent of the QTC, Peak is shifting away from power levels (1-8) and to LED indication:

C - cool
N - neutral
H - high cri
R - red

[archimedes]

With the advent of the QTC, Peak is shifting away from power levels (1-8) and to LED indication:

C - cool
N - neutral
H - high cri
R - red

... and:

X - eXtreme

[pmek5]

I am still puzzeled how well this will work not being a QTC, and a standard AW 10180 battery.