vinhnguyen54 Modding/Repair Helpline ... Get your answers here! :-)

[pulstar]

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[BlackhawkB]

How I stack 7135 Chips:

1) Clip off the middle leg as you don't need it
2) bend the outer legs to curve downward
3) Dip the two small legs and the rear leg into flux.
4) Add heated solder to the legs.
5) Add heated solder to the same three legs on the chip mounted on the board
6) Now stack them on top of each other and solder the large rear leg first. The solder should just melt in.
7) Solder the two front side legs. If the solder won't flow add a thin copper wire to create a solder flow path.

I almost have the same driver for my XM-L with 3.5 A output.

I checked the voltage on the LED and it is about 3.03V, so I am willing to increase it a little bit to gain more lumens.

I have likewise 2 resistors on the driver, that are in serie. Any idea how I can increase the voltage to about 3.35v by changing the resistors ? I think I should increase a little bit the resistor, but I dont know how much, and I dont know if the current will be affected a lot.

According to V=RI, if I reduce the resistors I will reduce the voltage and increase the current, right ?

[dirtech]

Hey Vin,

I have one of your 3+ amp xml p60 drop ins. Im running it in a counterfeit solarforce host and I just noticed something very useful. It acts like a dereelight 'T' model. That is, when the head is slightly loose I get the H-M-L just like the driver is intended to function. If I tighten the head a bit, I get one mode always high.

Any Thoughts?

[Esko]

What materials can be used for potting a driver? Which of them are the best? Why?

Thanks for a great thread!

[vinhnguyen54]

Hey Vin,

I have one of your 3+ amp xml p60 drop ins. Im running it in a counterfeit solarforce host and I just noticed something very useful. It acts like a dereelight 'T' model. That is, when the head is slightly loose I get the H-M-L just like the driver is intended to function. If I tighten the head a bit, I get one mode always high.

Any Thoughts?

That's not good! There is a short at the negative LED lead when the reflectors pushes down. This action bypass the driver and forces the light into direct drive. You can mail it back to me for repair or I can send you tougher isolator disc. Please let me know. Thanks!

[vinhnguyen54]

What materials can be used for potting a driver? Which of them are the best? Why?

Thanks for a great thread!

I think most people use Epoxy glue but I use a type of thermal paste glue called FUJIK. They transfer heat and they cure hard in place.

[dirtech]

Good to know. I have some isolator disks. I flap a new in there.

[Diablo_331]

Hi Wayne. I have a quick question. I have one of your EZ900 dropins and it uses a white paste to glue the led to the pill. This is an aspheric setup and it has a few rings. The lens is perfectly focused. I'm thinking that these rings are caused by light being reflected off of this white paste as everything else is black except for the paste. If that is the issue then I'll just pot the top of the pill with the black FUJIK that you mentioned. Is my thought process logical? Or am I a moron?

[vinhnguyen54]

Hi Wayne. I have a quick question. I have one of your EZ900 dropins and it uses a white paste to glue the led to the pill. This is an aspheric setup and it has a few rings. The lens is perfectly focused. I'm thinking that these rings are caused by light being reflected off of this white paste as everything else is black except for the paste. If that is the issue then I'll just pot the top of the pill with the black FUJIK that you mentioned. Is my thought process logical? Or am I a moron?

The rings are caused by reflection of the aluminum ring around the LED. This is a behavior of all XREs :-)

[nofearek9]

*edit*
revised question can i make an LED light without driver ,connect it straight to the battery(might need resistor),asking about 1.5v ,3v and 12v battery

[Diablo_331]

I was wondering myself if this could be the culprit. Any way to "black" the ring out without damaging the die? Maybe use some paper against the dome to keep from marking it?

[Quest4fire]

How I stack 7135 Chips:

1) Clip off the middle leg as you don't need it
2) bend the outer legs to curve downward
3) Dip the two small legs and the rear leg into flux.
4) Add heated solder to the legs.
5) Add heated solder to the same three legs on the chip mounted on the board
6) Now stack them on top of each other and solder the large rear leg first. The solder should just melt in.
7) Solder the two front side legs. If the solder won't flow add a thin copper wire to create a solder flow path.

I have a couple of questions about this driver board.

First, what is the purpose of the surface mount object on the battery pos (+) side of the board labeled "C 1".

Second, would there be any benefit to removing the resistors on the other side and bridging with solder?

Thanks!

[vinhnguyen54]

*edit*
revised question can i make an LED light without driver ,connect it straight to the battery(might need resistor),asking about 1.5v ,3v and 12v battery

YES! This is called Direct Drive!

The high current in yoru cells might kill your LED with heat though. Which LEDs are you trying to Direct Drive?

[vinhnguyen54]

I was wondering myself if this could be the culprit. Any way to "black" the ring out without damaging the die? Maybe use some paper against the dome to keep from marking it?

Ummmm....I dont know LOL

I will try black sharpie but I think its on the inside. You cant color that part. Removing the ring completely will solve your problem but it might bring others.

[vinhnguyen54]

questforfire,

Not sure if I understand your questions but the 7135 chips were added to increase current which raises the output of the LED. I wouldnt remove anything off the board. I am not sure which resistor but one of them serves as reverse polarity protection. Just leave them alone.

[nofearek9]

YES! This is called Direct Drive!

The high current in yoru cells might kill your LED with heat though. Which LEDs are you trying to Direct Drive?

for heat i might be adle to add a heatsink for them ,about WHICH leds i dont know what is good for 1.5v ,3v and 12v ?(1 for each application )

[vinhnguyen54]

for heat i might be adle to add a heatsink for them ,about WHICH leds i dont know what is good for 1.5v ,3v and 12v ?(1 for each application )

All the LEDs I know has a working voltage of about 3.7A Volt.

[Diablo_331]

Ummmm....I dont know LOL

I will try black sharpie but I think its on the inside. You cant color that part. Removing the ring completely will solve your problem but it might bring others.

Please let me know what you come up with if you get a chance. I just threw an aspheric lens in front of one of your Nichia 219 dropins and I must say that it is amazing! A nice round beam with a great tint. I may have to pick up a single mode from you now..

[vinhnguyen54]

Please let me know what you come up with if you get a chance. I just threw an aspheric lens in front of one of your Nichia 219 dropins and I must say that it is amazing! A nice round beam with a great tint. I may have to pick up a single mode from you now..

I will try to remove the alu ring and see what happens.

[swecoke]

Hello

I have a problem with a new 15 dollars XL-M T6 zoom lamp from ebay ...
Its flickers all the times , the 5 modes dont work at all , if you preset iy to 100% light its dimes and live its own lifes

Use 18650 battery

Everything seems ok , so a thinking about to replace the driver board
Here is the board in the flashlight


What driver scud a chose ??
This one from DX for example ?? DX SKU 127684

There is so many drivers board , from 1000mA to 2800mA , and there is some tips on internet to desolder 2-3 drivers ic on the board ( 7135IC ) to lower the current into the cree led ??

If a use a 2800 mA board for my XL-M T6 the lifetime on my battery will be low ?? Ore i a chose a 1000mA board will it light for a longer time ??

Any ides ??

Or is driver boards crappy on cheap flashlight ??

Please Do Not link directly to sales sites - Norm

[vinhnguyen54]

Buy this driver:
8xAMC7135 (2.8A) (selectable) Mode Driver

From illuminationsupply to replace your original. Also from your photo it seem that the negative from the battery side of the board is not bridging with the pill which it should. SInce you cant solder onto aluminum this could be a bit of a challenge. R u confuse?

[glockxj]

Vinhn,

I am looking to DD my Maelstrom x10. I have already soldered a wire from the LED ground to the Driver Ground. I now get 1.8A on low mode and 3-3.10A on High mode. This is using the Green 26650 from FOURSEVENS. I disconnected the Black wire for the thermal management, but when i did, it would pull 2A on low and 2.75A on high, so i reconnected it.

I would really like to upgrade to a XML U2, but I have never re-flowed a LED. Do you have a XML U2 on a X10 Board i could buy from you?

I am purchasing some MNKE IMR26650, is there anything else needed to complete the DD mod?

[vinhnguyen54]

26650 Direct Drive should push the current to like 7-8A...Not sure why you are only getting 3.1A.

Have you seen this thread? http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...-Maelstrom-X10

Anyway I suggest removing the head completely and direct drive it to the large PCB to reduce resistance. But I would still say put in a driver!

I have a Stock X10 PCB that I can mount a XML-U2 on it for you for $20 Shipped! Or XML-U2 on 20mm star for $15. Or XML-U2 on copper star similar to the link above for $35. Up to you! :-)

Vinhn,

I am looking to DD my Maelstrom x10. I have already soldered a wire from the LED ground to the Driver Ground. I now get 1.8A on low mode and 3-3.10A on High mode. This is using the Green 26650 from FOURSEVENS. I disconnected the Black wire for the thermal management, but when i did, it would pull 2A on low and 2.75A on high, so i reconnected it.

I would really like to upgrade to a XML U2, but I have never re-flowed a LED. Do you have a XML U2 on a X10 Board i could buy from you?

I am purchasing some MNKE IMR26650, is there anything else needed to complete the DD mod?

[glockxj]

What driver would you suggest? Tonight I will attempt to remove the head, and see if it will be possible for me to do a driver swap.

As for the XML-U2, Let me get my IMR26650s and see what my x10 looks like. I may get the XML on the copper star.

Thanks for all your help!

26650 Direct Drive should push the current to like 7-8A...Not sure why you are only getting 3.1A.

Have you seen this thread? http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...-Maelstrom-X10

Anyway I suggest removing the head completely and direct drive it to the large PCB to reduce resistance. But I would still say put in a driver!

I have a Stock X10 PCB that I can mount a XML-U2 on it for you for $20 Shipped! Or XML-U2 on 20mm star for $15. Or XML-U2 on copper star similar to the link above for $35. Up to you! :-)

[vinhnguyen54]

What driver would you suggest? Tonight I will attempt to remove the head, and see if it will be possible for me to do a driver swap.

As for the XML-U2, Let me get my IMR26650s and see what my x10 looks like. I may get the XML on the copper star.

Thanks for all your help!

On twisty light I like a simple High-Low or High-Medium operation. Illumination supply have both the 3.04A and the 2.8A driver for sale. I can provide them too if you want. You will need a heat gun or a hair dryer to heat up hte head before you can remove it with rubber gloves.

[amraspalantir]

hi vinh,

i want to mod my DRY tailcap switch into a remote pressure tape switch. could you help me out on this?
plan to use a deerelight tape switch (not sure if it could handle the high current in a DRY tailcap switch though).
thanks for any help and great thread you started.

[vinhnguyen54]

Sorry I don't think I can help you with this topic.

hi vinh,

i want to mod my DRY tailcap switch into a remote pressure tape switch. could you help me out on this?
plan to use a deerelight tape switch (not sure if it could handle the high current in a DRY tailcap switch though).
thanks for any help and great thread you started.

[dimmer]

Hi Wayne, thanks for offering to answer questions. I'm thinking of building a light with a 12P bored body, using 2 x 18650.
My questions are:
1/ what would you recommend for an engine if I want at least 1000 lumens, more throw than flood ?
2/ do I have to go with an engine that is rated for 12 to 18 volts? They seem to jump from 6 to 12 or 6 to 18 without steps between.
3/ do I lose efficiency / run time by going with an engine rated higher than my operating voltage of 8.4 ?

I'd appreciate your suggestions, thanks.

dimmer

[vinhnguyen54]

Dimmer,

1) If you want throw then you will have to go single emmiter in smooth reflector. A XML would be a good choice.
2) There arent many drivers that pushes 8.4V and current enough for 1000 lumen that I know of. This one might work: http://www.intl-outdoor.com/xml-mult...26v-p-361.html

Typically you would want to stay with voltages as low as possible due to greater deficiency in a more narrow range.
3) Usually yes, but due to the the lack of drivers availability I say go with whatever that is current regulated.

[dimmer]

Thanks for the insight Wayne, I was hoping to get more run time by using 2 x 18650, I guess driver availability limits my options. Do you have any approximation of run time ( on high ) of your low voltage XML's ( 5000k ) on an AW 3100 mAh / 18650 if I run it in a 6P ??

Oh, I forgot, does it make a difference in run time if I use your XML with a 4.5V driver or a 6V driver with a 18650 ??

dimmer