I've done some reading on this, but its only been a day or two since I 1st looked into doing this for the 1st time, so I havent learned everything yet. On another thread, someone mentioned that I shouldve read the P60 thread to better understand this stuff. Problem was, I didnt know what a P60 even was, so I wouldnt have known to look into that thread in the first place.
But I've done some more reading(including P60 thread!), and now I know what a P60 is.... Unfortunately, it's not quite that simple. Granted it is the P60 drop in that I need for the Solarforce L2P that I like in type III blue anodizing(yep, type III blue!) That host can use 123's, RCR123's, 16340's, 18650's, etc. It uses either 1-18650 size battery or 2- 123 size batts.
What I want is a neutral beam, with at least 3 brightness settings, and maybe strobe. The P60 that seems to fit that best would be the 5 mode P60. I would like good battery life and good throw. I know with the stock L2P head I'm limited as to how much throw is possible, since its not that large in diameter. The P60's available from Solarforce and Illumination supply seem to be rated at only up to about 350 lumens for the XP-G model, and up to 500 OTF lumens from the XM-L version.
That brings up question #1. I just ordered a Zebra SC600, and it has an XM-L, runs on 1-18650(like the Solarforce L2P), but has 640 OTF lumens, even though it ONLY runs on 1-18650, and not 2 or more higher voltage 123's or 16340's, so why isnt the P60/and SF L2P combo capable of more brightness while using the same batt and LED? Why would they list all the XM-L Drop in's at only 500 OTF lumens? BTW, they are listed at about 800-820, but they admit the OTF is only 500.
Anyway, for a 5 mode light (3 brightness, 2 strobe), relatively high(500-650L) brightness, good battery life comparable with store bought fare of similar specs, neutral beam color, which P60 do I need, with which voltage range? The brightness modes I'd prefer are: 5-10% LOW, 30-40% MED, AND 100% HIGH.
Another factor here that is important, I want it to be able to run on either 18650 or 123 or RCR123(and 6v lantern battery!) I've read how getting the voltage range wrong is can be the biggest problem with building your own light, so getting that right is important.
Which parts would you use, aside from the SF L2P? which P60 version? BTW: I dont want to spend $45-$70 on a P60 drop in.
Lastly, I've read conflicting info about the momentary capability of the L2P's rear clicky. On a youtube video of a guy putting one together, he points out that his L2P only has on/off with no momentary, but on Solarforce's website, they say the L2P DOES have a momentary capability....... Anyone know the truth there?
Last edited by HighlanderNorth; 04-23-2012 at 04:30 PM.