Magic Fire 65W HID

[yifu]

Thanks for the impressions. Any idea on lumen output as compared to other lights? In my room a 100 lux ceiling bounce almost exactly corresponds to 1000 lumens output so that would be around 4500 lumens possibly? Is the throw better than the 40W? It looks to me in the photo that the 40W has a tighter hotspot.

[mohanjude]

I could run my ceiling bounce against the Polarion PH50 to get a 'benchmark' comparison.

[BVH]

So looks like about 59.5 Watts input and 47.5 Watts at the bulb based on 80% efficiency. A nice output for a light this size.

[yifu]

I could run my ceiling bounce against the Polarion PH50 to get a 'benchmark' comparison.

That would be great thanks! And BVH, "nice output" is probably abysmal output compared to your collection. i can't afford any of the amazing lights you own, except for maybe the LarryK14, which i will try to start once i find a 600W landing light

[mohanjude]

Here is the bounce test between Polarion ph50 - peaks at over 500 but levels at 382.

Magic Scorpion was raised to the same height as PH50 - levels off at 367 - so not quiet PH50 but to me this is a nice surprise.

I can't do Beamshots as it is really sunny today (having rained and been very gloomy yesterday). Got to go look for a Myford lathe...

Hope you find this rather simple and basic comparison helpful. I once again at trouble with Eagletac 3100 shutting off.

[mohanjude]

So looks like about 59.5 Watts input and 47.5 Watts at the bulb based on 80% efficiency. A nice output for a light this size.

I think you are quite right the Ceiling Bounce shows 367 vs 382 = 95% power.

If you use that calculation ph50 - 50w output at 95% would equate to 47.5w assuming that the PH50 delivers a true output of 50W.

[ma_sha1]

Nice! I saw some 65W now comes with anti reflective coating on another site,

glass looks purpleish. Do you see that on yours?

[mohanjude]

Can't really say - thought I saw purple hue through camera view finder...

[Patriot]

Here is the bounce test between Polarion ph50 - peaks at over 500 but levels at 382.

Magic Scorpion was raised to the same height as PH50 - levels off at 367 - so not quiet PH50 but to me this is a nice surprise.

I can't do Beamshots as it is really sunny today (having rained and been very gloomy yesterday). Got to go look for a Myford lathe...

Hope you find this rather simple and basic comparison helpful. I once again at trouble with Eagletac 3100 shutting off.

Not trying to nitpick at all mohanjude and I really appreciate the video comparison, but with the sensor that close to the light, camera and you, even the slightest bit of body movement can effect the numbers fairly significantly. Once during a ceiling bounce test in my integrating shower my numbers were thrown off due to the color of my shirt, how close I was and whether the bathroom door was open or not. I discovered early on that I had to set up the meter and light and then video the light meter readout from about 4 feet away, otherwise I was influencing the lux figures. Again, thanks so much for posting this video as it was helpful and good enough for a general result. Obviously, the 65W light, although under spec is really impressive! I'm amazed that it's hanging with the PH50.

[yifu]

Thanks for the comparison. So it really is a "poor man's" mini PH50 then! Maybe not for throw but the output is very close indeed. If the 85W version comes out i think we can safely assume at least Polarion Night reaper output?

[mohanjude]

Not trying to nitpick at all mohanjude and I really appreciate the video comparison, but with the sensor that close to the light, camera and you, even the slightest bit of body movement can effect the numbers fairly significantly. Once during a ceiling bounce test in my integrating shower my numbers were thrown off due to the color of my shirt, how close I was and whether the bathroom door was open or not. I discovered early on that I had to set up the meter and light and then video the light meter readout from about 4 feet away, otherwise I was influencing the lux figures. Again, thanks so much for posting this video as it was helpful and good enough for a general result. Obviously, the 65W light, although under spec is really impressive! I'm amazed that it's hanging with the PH50.

Quite right .. very sensitive and as I said it was a comparison between the 2 torches. Factors such as my shirt etc were common to both torches. What I did find is that because there was still ambient light in the room as can be seen in the lux meter my movement did not affect the lux readings as one would if it was total darkness. Before I took the video I did vary the distance and the position I held the Iphone, the lux meter and the surface. It didnt make a large difference and awlays ended up having the same relative changes to both the PH50 and Magic scorpion. Raising the Magic Scorpion off the table made more of a difference than where I was next to the light. As I said it was a quick comparison.

[Doberman]

Nice, very nice.
And thanks for sharing the results of your first measurements.
Could you make first experiences with heat development of the MF ? Is it capable of going over 10 minutes runtime without melting the head´s alloy ?

Thx
Doberman

[Doberman]

Hi all,
any news on that from the proud 65-Watt MF owners ? Is it stable for more than 10 minutes runtime ? Is there a tempearture cirquit kicking in or is it up to onwners responsibility th check flashlight temperature ?

Thanks and regards

[mohanjude]

I have used my MF MS 65w for around 10 to 15 mins at a time am I happy to report that the unit has been stable and not shut down due to thermal issues. The head has felt very hot and quite difficult to hold by its head. The whole torch becomes warm but if there is air flow it is ok. I would not recommend tail stand and leaving it on for a long time.

[jmpaul320]

this light looks light a great entry level hid, aside from the ebay hids which seem to be very large in size

[hahoo]

[QUOTE=jmpaul320;3951027]this light looks light a great entry level hid, aside from the ebay hids which seem to be very large in size[/QUOTE



any more info on the light ?

[MDJAK]

Good day, fellas (and ladies, if there are any). Some of you may remember a few months back my original Magic Fire (40? 45?) watt suffered a blown bulb. I contacted Ric who initially indicated changing out the bulb would be an easy affair if I knew how to solder. He said he'd send me a bulb. When that didn't arrive I contacted him again. At that point he (or someone who works with him) indicated it is a very difficult job to change the bulb, that the original light was no longer being made, but if I paid the difference and sent back mine, he'd send me the new 65w. I jumped on that. I mailed it back to him, which took a few weeks. After sometime he mailed me the new 65w light. While I've only used it once and briefly, it is BRIGHT, that's for sure, with excellent throw.

First, kudos to Rick for coming through as promised.

Second, and sorry for not reading through the whole thread, but knowing the previous model sliced the outer coating off my batteries, resulting in my throwing away brand new batteries, which brand or brands are recommended that fit well in this light?

Thank you.

mark

[Alankujala]

Mark, I skinned my AW's and then ordered some EagleTac 18650 3100mAh protected Li-ion and they fit beautifully!

[MDJAK]

Mark, I skinned my AW's and then ordered some EagleTac 18650 3100mAh protected Li-ion and they fit beautifully!

Thank you. I will order those now.

[MDJAK]

Ordered. Sheesh, over 70 bucks with shipping for four batteries. Almost half the cost of the light. Oh well. LOL.

On another note, the nice lanyard that comes with the light, what's up with all the strings hanging out from it? How do I attach this?

[MDJAK]

Help, people, please.

So as I stated, I received the replacement 65W light from Ric. He's been great during the blown bulb in my original 45 watt, took that back, charged me a small increased fee for the new light, and shipped it very well packed.

As I stated, I placed 4 batteries in the light and it worked. Super bright I thought. I noticed it skinning the batteries, asked, and purchased the Eagle Tac upon recommendation.

Well, the light would no longer work. It momentarily clicks on and then instantly off. And I mean a brief quarter of a second perhaps. I don't know if the switch went bad.

I emailed Ric and he stated I should use Panasonic (or another brand) UNPROTECTED batteries. Unprotected? I questioned this and he said they are perfectly fine and work well.

Am I wrong to be skeptical? I am a noobie when it comes to this stuff with no knowledge of batteries at all.

Also, I've tried every battery combo I own, both Eagle Tac, and others, and the light does the same thing. I've tried the batteries in my other lights and they work perfectly.

Thanks

Mark

[BVH]

I don't remember if the 65 Watt has built-in protection in the battery carrier like the Fire Foxes does? If it does, then it is fine to use unprotected cells. If not, then you take your chances, raise your risk of an issue. If you're using protected cells, they are very likely to be tripping on over-current with the high draw of the 65 Watt (around 60 Watts IIRC from someone who did some testing) So 60 Watts equals about just under 4 Amps when running after warm-up (on fresh charged cells - more if not at full charge) and with a 2.5 - 3 times increase in starting Amps, you're looking at over 9 Amps momentarily. No protected cell is going to provide that without tripping off. That's most likely what you see with the momentary flash. The CGR 2250's and the original AW 1600 IMR's would provide the starting the necessary Amps. IIRC, AW has a new 2000 mAh IMR? That would be fine, too. The CGR's are fat and my 8, at least, had no insulation over the last 32nd inch of the negative "can" so they could not be used due to dead shorting when installing them in the tube. I'd look for AW's new 2000 IMR's.

Of course, you still could have a problem somewhere else - with the ballast, for instance, but it points towards over-current tripping.

[rufus001]

The CGR's are fat and my 8, at least, had no insulation over the last 32nd inch of the negative "can" so they could not be used due to dead shorting when installing them in the tube.

Any chance of a photo of the bottom of the battery to show exactly where the wrapping is missing? i Have a couple of battery carriers that are very tight fits and don't want to go .

[MDJAK]

I don't remember if the 65 Watt has built-in protection in the battery carrier like the Fire Foxes does? If it does, then it is fine to use unprotected cells. If not, then you take your chances, raise your risk of an issue. If you're using protected cells, they are very likely to be tripping on over-current with the high draw of the 65 Watt (around 60 Watts IIRC from someone who did some testing) So 60 Watts equals about just under 4 Amps when running after warm-up (on fresh charged cells - more if not at full charge) and with a 2.5 - 3 times increase in starting Amps, you're looking at over 9 Amps momentarily. No protected cell is going to provide that without tripping off. That's most likely what you see with the momentary flash. The CGR 2250's and the original AW 1600 IMR's would provide the starting the necessary Amps. IIRC, AW has a new 2000 mAh IMR? That would be fine, too. The CGR's are fat and my 8, at least, had no insulation over the last 32nd inch of the negative "can" so they could not be used due to dead shorting when installing them in the tube. I'd look for AW's new 2000 IMR's.

Of course, you still could have a problem somewhere else - with the ballast, for instance, but it points towards over-current tripping.

I think you are right about the protection being the cause. Hmm. I'll have to look for those new AW batteries. Thank you very much for your quick reply.

The battery carrier: I don't know if it has protection built in. It seems pretty bare bones.

[BVH]

Any chance of a photo of the bottom of the battery to show exactly where the wrapping is missing? i Have a couple of battery carriers that are very tight fits and don't want to go .

I was sure I'd taken pics of my own but cannot find any. Here's a pic on Ebay showing a different brand but the short label is exactly as mine were. I ended up cutting the wrapper from all of mine and finding some thin wall (.005") shrink tube and re-wrapping them so the ends wrapped completely around the tail section. The only downside is that the mating end of an adjoining cell (or carrier contact) must have a very tiny protrusion to make contact beyond the .003" - .004" wrap. All brands I have sen are the same. In an insulated, plastic battery housing, such as a laptop, it does not matter because there is no common contact with a metal case. Take a look on Callies own site and you can somewhat make out the same condition on their pic.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/280831047533

[rufus001]

I thought that it was the bottom that was a little short on wrap not the bottom of the side of the battery. But checking the ebay photo it's clear what you mean. Wouldn't this bare side contact the inside of the torch in most lights and therefore cause a short? Or is there generally enough room for it not to be a problem? And I'm guessing this is not a problem at all in e-cigs(which I have never seen)?

[BVH]

I thought that it was the bottom that was a little short on wrap not the bottom of the side of the battery. But checking the ebay photo it's clear what you mean. Wouldn't this bare side contact the inside of the torch in most lights and therefore cause a short? EXACTLY! I saw the issue so I was ready for the short when I first tried to insert them in my 45 Watt Magic Fire with it's ultra-tight clearance. Although others said there was no issue. The moment mine made contact, I saw a spark and heat at the contact site was tremendous.Or is there generally enough room for it not to be a problem? There may be room in other devices or if the body is plastic then no issue. Remember, I removed the sharp edge at the beginning of the tube so bare metal was exposed. But I would not trust a thin Annodization to protect against a short. And I'm guessing this is not a problem at all in e-cigs(which I have never seen)?

[MDJAK]

You were right. I got the AW IMR batteries you recommended , charged 'em up, placed them in the MagicFire 65 watt, went outside when it was very dark here in NY suburbs, and next thing I knew it was like an invitation to every moth and bug in the universe. It is a powerful light. I like it. Now I'll have to wait for cooler weather, when the bugs are less ubiquitous, and compare it to my Abyss.

Thank you very much.

[Zephrus]

Of the three beam shots on Ma sha1 comments it looks to me that the MF was the brightest? A little hard to tell and the SR90 may have a brighter hot spot but overall to my eyes it appears the brightest. Anyone else agree?

It's an illusion or "eye trick." If you vignette the 65W image it's at least just as bright or brighter. Looks like a slightly higher color temp too.

[Zephrus]

Just pulled the trigger on one of these bad boys along with 4 Panasonic 3100s . Should have it sometime next week. Looking forward to doing beamshots, throw tests, lux readings and will also do a FLIR thermal profile.