Regarding my new T1A Titan received today, I note that the features section in the User Manual states "Max Output" is "100 lumens." I was pleased to see that SureFire has indeed documented the lumen increase, even though the box still states "70 Max Lumen Output." I'd say the color temperature of my T1A is slightly cooler than that of my E1B...a neutral tint if I were asked to describe it (no blueish quality for sure). I don't own a digital camera so I sincerely apologize for not being able to provide a photo. The center beam looks well focused and less floody than I had anticipated. A keeper for sure.
Edit: Forgot to mention that the specifications listed in the User Manual (T1A Titan Rev.B) state the runtime (at max output of 100 lumens) is 2.25 hours. I believe this figure of 2.25 hours is bit longer than what is stated on SureFire's website.
Last edited by bluebonnet; 07-12-2012 at 11:57 AM.
I also just received mine this morning too. I agree, the new T1A is more useful than my old T1A. This one has a more focused hot spot, and the angry blue tint is also gone. The tint is only slightly cooler compared to my other LED lights, but you will not notice it on daily basis.
My box has a 90 lumens sticker covering the old rating on the front. But the side is still saying High 70. The manual has been reprinted with the new 90 lumens rating too (now up to Rev C). But no where it does say "100 lumens". Very odd. But I am not going to loose sleep over 10 lumens. lol
Yep, the new T1A is a keeper.
(I have been using my old T1A with IMR16340 for a few years now, and the light is still going strong, I'm planning to use the new T1A with IMR16340 too)
Last edited by dchao; 07-12-2012 at 11:22 AM.
When you compare the old and new lights is there any visible differences? Reflector or LED differences?
Both the reflector and emitter look identical.
One major difference is on the body, now it has a matt finish and is very very slightly thicker. Bezel has the same glossy finish. Bezel is looser on my old T1A, maybe that is due to the everyday use of my old light, or SF has tighten the specs so it won't turn itself on in your pocket (which has never happened to me).
Just want to add, according to my Rev C Specs:
Max Output = 90 lumens
Runtime (at max output) = 2.25 hour
I think this is the correct specs, and the web site is incorrect. Because my T1A feel not very warm even after extended use, so I can believe the 2.25 hour claim.
Last edited by dchao; 07-12-2012 at 11:33 PM.
I believe SF has always rated their runtime until it is 50% of the rated max. That's actually not so bad. Other manufacturers sometimes rate the battery runtimes until it's dimmer that a firefly's butt.
On another note:
I love my SF T1As for many reasons but the following are the most prominent:
- Very small in size. Pocketable.
- Butter smooth infinitely variable level control.
- One of the lowest lows around which is great in the dark.
There's also always been a few issues I wish were addressed which would truly make this light "perfect":
- No tailstanding. That kinda stinks for use around the house. My solution was to file off the back strap loop, clean up the cap and paint it with some hard coat black grill epoxy spray paint - looks pretty good and very durable.
- Limited battery options. It does last a long time on CR123s but it would be nice to be able to use a regular RCR123 in the light (without having to bleed them down to ~3.6v first). SF has just never gotten on the ball with supporting regular RCR123 cells. LiMN cells do work but they've got pretty poor capacity.
- Not quite enough light. It's usually enough light for 90% of what I need to do, but there are those time I wish I could get just a little more light w/o having to find something brighter. And, a jump from 70 to 100 lumens is not quite what I am talking about.
My point? I recently purchased a TC-R1 from the marketplace and have been really loving this light. It lead me towards purchasing the non-Ti regular RRT01 and I must say that this is a near perfect light for my needs as I've ever found. It will never replace my T1A but the two will definitely be sharing carry time. Why am I so taken by this light?
- Infinitely variable level control. Not quite as smooth as T1A but still completely functional.
- Lowest low I've ever seen. This light can go so low that it makes the T1A on it's lowest appear bright.
- Power Output. Approx 250 lumens on a CR123 and 4-500 on a RCR123/18350.
- Battery options. Basic support of CR123s and enhanced performance support for LiIons. And (mega bonus) support for 18350 sized cells for awesome runtime and power in a really small package. An Ultrafire 18350 protected cell (rated at 1200mAh but realistically tested to be 900mAh) will last both super long and allow for super bright.
- Tailstanding. Stable and you can still attach a lanyard.
- Very easily modable. If you don't like the tint, and XM-L swap can be done in under 15 minutes. T1A - that's a serious project to pull apart and mod. If you don't care for the beam, get a McR18 or McR18s reflector from The Shoppe, file it down a bit to fit and now you have a nice OP reflector.
- Cost. A new T1A $250 new = OUCH! A new RRT01 $105 = not too bad.
Anyway - I don't want to be the thread killer here and start a debate over any little particulars. I just wanted to present a cost effective option which is inferior in some ways to the T1A yet at the same time superior in a few areas too.
I think the T1A is still worth the price of admission from the standpoint of build quality and level of service should you need it, as well as a tried and true electronics and switch package. I own and use an RRT-01, and agree that it brings a lot to the plate. As said, tailstanding, a clip, and a wider range of output. Modified McR20 reflector delivers a fantastic beam, and though I haven't, modding does look a lot easier. Different cell support is a bonus, too. It is a bit bigger than the T1A, though. I would love to see a re-design of the T1A to include a clip option as well as tailstanding capability. That said, I wouldn't worry if I dropped a T1A...
I paid $199.85 for the 2012 model T1A with a spec of 100 lumens and $170.00 for a 2011 model with a spec of 70 lumens. Darned if I can see any difference. My Pentax Digital Spotmeter didn't see any difference either when I compared the two models at maximum output to measure the EV from the reflected light each produced.
Last edited by bluebonnet; 07-20-2012 at 06:35 AM.
I say it is not worth it. 90 lumens with a 1 hour run time to 50 lumens is pretty sad. The new EB1 which is supposed to come out 4Th quarter of 2012 is 200 lumens with a run time to 50 lumens in 1.3 hours. No clue why surefire would put such a low power inefficient emitter in the Titan when they could have used the better EB1 emitter. Of course we may not see the EB1 for another 10 years if ever so maybe that is the answer.
I dunno - maybe - maybe not. I'm not pointing fingers.
Personally I don't care - just made a sarcastic comment based on the other post. I didn't mean to offend - so I'm sorry if I did.
Edit - the apology was meant towards brianna - if applicable.
NBP - that was not directed at you at all.......
i would think brianna is a female.
That's why I was confused, haha.
Anyways, as I've posted before, I think the T1A is super. I let someone else take the hit on the retail price and got it used for a lot less, but I use it every day. And again, as I've said before, ripping on this light for it's shortish runtime on high is stupid, because you don't buy a T1A as a blaster anyways and likely seldom use high for a lengthy period. Most people buy it for the super low modes and finite output adjustment it's capable of and at those modes it runs forever on a cell.
The T1A Titan is a great performer that I use for close-up indoor needs. Initially, I got hung up on maximum lumen output and now I realize that was a mistake on my part. This light is actually in a niche class all to itself simply because of the UI. I just can't say enough good things about the Titan except I think it was well worth it...and then some. I'll never sell it.
Fair enough.Originally Posted by brianna
Partly it is a function too of the emitter used. To achieve the smooth floody beam this light does so well, they are still using a SSC P4, one of my favorites BTW. However, that emitter simply won't do 200 lms. I think increasing to those outputs will require a different emitter and thus considerable redesign of the reflector and maybe the head entirely. I don't know if it is worth it for SF to do this. ???
I just don't understand why you are frustrated. The light is what it has always been. It has never claimed to be a "tactical" light nor tried to be. It is marketed and sold as a key-ring type light for personal use. It's got the best low level variable output of any light out there and a decent high.
I agree that the LED used really sucks and I can't understand why SF still uses a SSC P4 led. I've modded every T1A I've owned to either a XP-G or a XM-L and been much happier with the output (better binned and brighter too).
If you are looking for a tactical light with the same features as the T1A but with a tactical option then you should buy a RRT-01. It's got the same low-level output (even lower) and will blow you away with 500 shot term lumens.
I now have one of these things coming to me (thanks to CPFM) so I guess I'll see what the fuss is about. I've always liked the SF ring interface, so much so I still use a 2005 LuxV U2 daily. But I'm also not big on SSC P4 blue tints. This should be interesting, anyway. Going to have to do battle with my old E1L for pocket-light honors. Honestly I'd really like an HDS Rotary but those things cost an arm and a leg.
I'd agree from everything I've read the T1A was almost never objectively worth the retail price. Surefire comes out with technology demonstrators now and then (U2, Kroma, Titan, Beast II, UB3T, etc.) and prices them accordingly for the hardcore SF fans who'll pay for the sake of their art. It annoys me but I can't fault them for it. On the other hand, what I can fault them for is using this cold, outdated emitter in such an exclusive light. I'm guessing SF must have gotten left holding the bag on a lot of SSC P4s some time in the late '00s. They've put them into all kinds of things they're poorly suited for, like the U2A, and the P60L drop-ins which were awful.
Do something alone and it's weird, do it with others and it's a club.