So I have this Maglite 3D sitting around...

[yazovyet]

2d vs 3d:
For me it was becasue I had a 2D from years ago. I used AAs because I had a AA charger and AAs sitting around to use. I imagine others (kevin) use a 2d since it is smaller (than a 3d) and can still fit 3 C cells.

Also thanks for pointing out your guide Lilkevin715, it looks good and should help Player out and I like that you were able to get a tail measure of 2.79 amps from the 3 NiMH cells; it gives me confidence that his mod with 3Ds should work just fine.

[Player]

Once I do this and remove the cam from the switch is there any focus ability with the head of the light? I was thinking that since the LED is just poking through the reflector that by twisting the head a few turns either way there may still be some. It's not going to change my mind about doing it, just wanting to know.

[Player]

Are these the right parts?

Cree XM-L T6
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/t...-T6-LED/Detail

Driver
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/t...t-Board/Detail

Heatsink H22A for P7 (does bare or coated matter?)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...sinks-********

Plus thermal epoxy and Termal grease.

What gauge wires to get? I have wire around here but I think it's kinda hefty for this.

[yazovyet]

Theres some focus left, but turning the head on past the point where it would normally be focused (teh reflector then bottoms out on the heat sink). In my build thread the first beam shot is unfocused and the second is focused. That should give you an idea of what you can get. When unfocused there is what you'd call a hole in the middle. And you can screw the head all the way off but that does expose the LED and thus theres some risk of things hitting the LED. I once screwed the head off mine, taped a rope to the tail end and hoisted it up a tree to light up a decent sized area (20x20 feet?) so we could have some light while eating at night.

[LilKevin715]

You can obtain most of the supplies needed from Craig (csshih) at illuminationsupply.com. I do order stuff from shiningbeam (BTW Bryan is a great guy there), but he doesn't have everything you need.

Please note that you will need to get a LED mounted on a 14mm diameter mcpcb board or less. As for wire I'd recommend 20-24 guage teflon wire. You can use either the bare P7 flattop or the bare DHS flattop (I used the DHS) as the LED emitter board is electrically neutral. The HAIII coated heatsinks are for emitters such as the SSC P4/P7.

[yazovyet]

HS: I used bare. FLAT TOP. p7. I think Lilkevin used the DHS with the cavity in the back. I liked the solid one to give more thermal mass and slightly better thermal transmission (slighty better cooling) but the one with the cavity in the back gives more space incase you want to put more stuff in there. I don't reallt know how much space mine left but i don know the driver and wires fit in without issue

LED: you'll want a 14mm round board, if SB doesnt have one you could try illumination supply, but they only have T5s and below. A T5 should give a nicer colour of light but will not be quite as bright as the T6 or the even brighter U2. If I was makign another light I'd go T5 personally.

driver: yes but as LilKevin mentioned SB doesnt have the LED you need so to combine shipping i'd look into the https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc...ver-p-142.html driver from IS. You might want to see if it has the wires soldered on it as those are small and can be hard to do correctly.

wire: Some people will tell you to replace the driver to LED wire but I think that can be somewhat hard depending on your sodlering skills. I was too nervous and had a club of a soldering iron so I didn't. For the switch to driver wire I used some from and old computer PSU, I think it was around 18-20 gage.

[Player]

Illumination supply shows back order for the LED. Why is board size important, is it just for centering? I've seen 14mm, 16mm, and 20mm. I was wondering about asking the guy who makes the heatsinks if he could make one with a 20mm center and I could get the Cree XM-L U2.

I was wondering why the heatsinks are not made out of copper, they would have better conductivity and thermal dissipation then aluminum.

[yazovyet]

back order: hum, thats too bad. Suppose you could email and ask how long till it is expected to come in. Another option would be to go with the 10mm or the T4 (I think T4 is a little low though). The 10mm would be a little harder to center and would theoretically have somewhat worse cooling proporties but would otherwise work. I don't know how much that would really affect it. You could check dealextreme or kaidomain (or other suppliers) to see if they have XM-Ls on 14mm rounds. But be aware that DX and kai take over a month to ship to the states.

The reflector has a hole that is around 15mm. So you need a board that is smaller. You COULD take off crazy amounts of reflector to fit a larger board but I think that woudl end badly and the focus woudl be aweful. The heatsink has a pedistal that is 14.5 mm wide.

Copper is heavy and costly.

As far as I know the guy who makes the sinks can't/doesn't do custom work.

[alpg88]

Illumination supply shows back order for the LED. Why is board size important, is it just for centering? I've seen 14mm, 16mm, and 20mm. I was wondering about asking the guy who makes the heatsinks if he could make one with a 20mm center and I could get the Cree XM-L U2.

I was wondering why the heatsinks are not made out of copper, they would have better conductivity and thermal dissipation then aluminum.

you don't need small star to go thru opening.
you need deep reflector, z battery sells it for $2,50.
its focus is right at the edge of the opening, it is bulb reflector that has focus inside, use 20mm star, and deep reflector, it has been done many times,
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ebel-Reflector
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...inding-success

i myself build few of those.
you could use copper too, if you can find one, even better.
or you can use any heatsink, upside down, i used h22 heatsinks, i cut off the lip with sheet metal sheers and drilled a hole across the sink and the tube, than inserted pin, so it stays in place, after i found correct its position in the light, just make sure you center the star, you can glue it or drill holes and use nuts and bolts, or if you have taps you can cut threads in the sink and use just machine screws, i use 2,5mm screws, cuz i have them.

one thing you got to keep in mind when using deep reflector, heatsink has to sit deper into the tube, so don't get those tall heatsinks, get regular sized (about 1\2 inch tall).
that is how i did my 1 26650 maglite,

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/alpg88/3.jpg

[awenta]

or get der witchel 3xm-l drop in, (2500lm) it will reqire some soldering, and switch modification, but it isn't hard, step by step instructions are on this site, more than one thread, you can run it from 4x26500 cells in 3d tube, or 3x26650, pbly the brightest mag drop in available.

Actually led tech has 7x U2 XML on a copper board

[alpg88]

i know, but it isn't a drop in.
DW sells heatsink,reflectors, 3xml on tripple star and driver, all in one kit., all for 85 euro iirc, the 7xml on copper star alone is 60 euro.

[wannabe333]

Hello alpg88, could you please re-direct to the link of the 7xml on copper star for 60 euro. many thx

[alpg88]

no, sales links aren't allowed here