Buyin one for sure now! :-)
Buyin one for sure now! :-)
I have a TN31 coming. I hope it arrives before Sat 16th June. I am hoping to bring this to the CPF meet.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...17#post4885117 CPF Meet 2016 UK
Hopefully I get mine this week, need it to locate distance objects for a contest though I do have other throwers.
TN 31 arrived today.
Wow Tim - thanks for the extremely thorough answer to my question!! Much appreciated!
I ended up getting one so now get to see for myself. Just before I saw your response I was comparing the lowest lows of my varapower (cu heatsink, regular head, dedomed), jetbeam rrt0 variable, Thrunite scorpion, TN31, rex photon keychain light (4 led pinch light w/rechargeable batteries) and Eagletac D25 and G25C2.
From low to high here are my "subjective visual" thoughts:
1. Varapower - of 32 settings the lowest 3 are lower than the jetbeam RRT0 varable. Don't have a trit to compare to but can't imagine it's much brighter than that.
2. Rex photon light - adjusted down to the lowest setting. Almost no hotspot - great "read in bed w/out disturbing your wife" light!
3. Jetbeam RRT0 - Not much brighter than the Rex; definately a distinction between the hotspot and spill but nothing like the TN31.
4. Thrunite Scorpion V2 w/turbohead. Still very low but WAIT... hold the press... I can explain the TN31 better now**
5. Thrunite TN31 - high lux for low lumens. Not the best read in bed light AS IS, but would be excellent with a diffuser.
6 & 7. Both Eagletacs lowest low are in a completely different category; much brighter.
** Random thought - though the varapower on lowest setting is much lower than the lowest setting on the Rex or the Jetbeam, I still can clearly see the hotspot on the ceiling 5' above me in the pitch dark (I can also easily look directly into the LED with no discomfort.) The scorpion's hotspot on firefly though is much more disting than the varapower. HOWEVER, when I take the head off the scorpion so that there is no reflecor I can see absolutely nothing, nada on the ceiling.
The lumens can't have gone down - what changed was the lux.
The TN31 @ 1/2 a lumen almost appears as bright as the Eagletac at 5 lumens. I'd love a diffuser for it as then you could have the best of both worlds. Without the diffuser, you have the intensity of a normal 5 lumen light with the runtime of .5 lumens (think enough light to hike on jungle trails in the night for 9 months!). With the diffuser I'm sure it would be a nice, soft beam!
You're welcome! As you've noticed with your expirements, the measured output at low levels doesn't really jive with the true output at the emitter. At these low levels, how far that emitter is away from the sensor makes a huge difference (even with a real IS). In this case, given the very deep reflector, the TN31's low ouput measures lower than what it's truly outputting.
Designs & Features and Size & Handling sections now fleshed out.
Cool! I'm seeing if Michael at OMG lumens can make a diffuser film for it and was hoping to be able to easily remove the bezel and have the film larger than the inner diameter/smaller than the OD of it.
If this is a stupid question I apologize in advance.
Whats the standby mode for??????????????????
"Life is tough, but its tougher when you're stupid"--John Wayne
"Luceat lux vestra" = Let your light shine, [in Latin]
Instant one-handed access to strobe or output levels without the need to first depress a switch. While the control ring is reasonably firm, the switch greatly reduces the likelihood of accidental activation without needing to lock out the light.
Hi turboBB. Watched your vid on replacing the bezel, very helpful tks. Does the lens just sit on the 'o'ring between it and the reflector? With the 'o'ring behind the bezel, is it located in a recess or groove, and is it stuck in place, or can it be removed without too many problems??
Working from the reflector onwards towards the bezel:
Reflector -> Rubber Gasket/Flange -> Lens -> O-Ring -> Bezel
The O-Ring itself should be installed around a "lip" on the underside of the bezel and you should be able to see the SS bezel itself within the inner diameter of the O-Ring as shown around the 3 o'clock position of the bezel in this pic:
Hope that answers your question but do let me know if you have more.
Hello turboBB ( Tim );
Whilst watching your vid on reinstalling the bezel, i heard you say how difficult it was to do without the proper tool. I'm certain you would know this one, but if not, give it a go. This saves ripping skin off your hands from sharpish edges and gives you more leverage. Take an old bicycle innertube and cut out a section about 1 foot long. Slit this piece lengthways so you have a flat piece of thin rubber. You can then wrap this around bezel's, heads, tailcaps etc. Makes undoing and reinstalling heaps easier.
Any pointers on how to clean this massive lens? I tried warm water and a little dish soap while drying with a microfiber cloth, but i still have bits of steaks that drive me nuts. I don't want to end up scratching the lens.
@harro - thx for the tip! I'm now using the rubber grips used to open jar tops.
@veedo - like biglights, I also use a microfiber towel and just the condensation from my breath. Here's a thread with lots of good tips that might help:
Thanks for a great review,video ive seen a while ago,but only just read the review[almost it all].
Thanks for the time and trouble
how's the NW version of this that Battery Junction sells? how much decreased lumen count does one get? any decrease in lux?
turbobb your review was amazing btw!
Just got my TN30 and TN31 today.
However there was a problem getting the TN30 to work.
It would not light at all, only on low in all modes and maybe 1 in 10 times i reseated the battery holder, it would work as it should.
After changing batteries and battery holders between the TN30 and the TN31, i found that the problem was with the battery holder.
The voltages were ok, and only after half an hour, I found the problem.
One of the metal discs on the end of the battery holder, weren't centered, so when it is put into the flashlight, it would short circuit against the wall.
Solution was easy. Just unscrew the 3 screws and recenter the disc.
I will propably insulate the sides of the disc, using tape or paint.
Nice tip GReaper.
Although I don't have a problem with mine, you made me take a second look, thanks
Thank you GReaper and