Nichia 219 coming to Peak lights from Oveready

[Nyctophiliac]

Oveready came through for me!

Just received two lovely pocket rockets from those nice people at Peak! One Pocket SS QTC version 2 Nichia 219 (Colour temp somewhere between the usual cool and the warm - i.e. perfect!) and the Al HA QTC version 2 Red XPE.

Now to polish off my work and wait for dark to play.

BTW the gen 2 QTC gizmo seems to be much smoother than the original. genuinely easy to turn single handed and seems to go from low low to turbo within 180 degrees (a half turn).

Very happy.

Someone should peg this thread into the Peak sub forum?

[RobertM]

On the Oveready product page, it shows that the Peak Logan can be ran on a CR123 primary or IMR-16340 cell. Under the IMR section, it says to only running it on high for no longer than 1 minute at a time. Is this only when using IMR cells? Would it be safe to run it continuously on max with a CR123 primary cell?

[GeoBruin]

The Logan makes about 150 lumens on a primary. At the current it would draw for that output, it shouldn't get nearly as warm as on an RCR (especially an IMR). I know the motto around here is "better safe than sorry" but I think you're definitely okay.

[archimedes]

On the Oveready product page, it shows that the Peak Logan can be ran on a CR123 primary or IMR-16340 cell. Under the IMR section, it says to only running it on high for no longer than 1 minute at a time. Is this only when using IMR cells? Would it be safe to run it continuously on max with a CR123 primary cell?

The Logan has relatively limited mass, since it is a small pocket light, so holding it while running helps to both provide a "heat sink" path away from the light and to monitor the temperature while running. If it gets too hot to hold comfortably, it may be best to turn it down or off.

I don't think it would be wise to run on max while unattended (such as tailstanding, for example).

I have seen posts reporting possible melting or deformation of the optic, if it gets too hot....

EDIT - found it -

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=327135

[Nyctophiliac]

The Logans will warm up very quickly on high. You will notice unless you've set it down. Yes, I wouldn't run it on high with an RCR123A or an IMR 16340 for very long. Say a couple of minutes, and remember, the best heat conductor available for this light is Brass.

BTW the Logan Cool white is the brightest single celled light I have on an RCR123A at its max output.

Scorchio!

[GeoBruin]

His question was about running it flat out on a primary. If Peak's estimate of the output is correct, it's actually putting out less than many other very small single 123 lights in mass production (Zebralight SC31, Nitecore SENS, ITP A1 etc...) Nobody worries about running any of those on max. I really don't think you'll have an issue.

[eala]

Got my Eiger 219 from Oveready. I think the optic is different from past narrow Peak optics I have seen. This one is very smooth and well balanced. Loving it! Tint and CRI are perfect.

eala

[eala]

I have a question... I tried the head I ordered with LiIon cells and it works perfectly. Tried it with AAA cells and it barely lights up. Is there now a distinction between heads for Nimh cells and those for LiIon? I was not expecting this. Peak lights in the past worked quite well with both types of cells (albeit at different outputs).

Thanks,
eala

[GeoBruin]

Did you happen to order the EigerX? I believe it's only available from RMSK, but they say that one requires a lithium ion cell. Otherwise, does you light have the QTC pill? Could be something wrong with the pill and it's not making full contact?

[eala]

No I ordered a 219 from Oveready. I have an old Eiger head with a high CRI XPG and with a Nimh cell in a non-qtc body (it is making contact), it is reasonably bright. The new head in the same body barely lights. This indicates to me a circuit change. The minimum voltage is likely higher than I am giving it with the 1.2V cell. Would love to know if what I have is defective, or if it truly is a change to the design.

eala

[jabe1]

I have a 219 Eiger. I just tried it on NiMh and Alkaline and it works well, not dim like you're describing. Contact Oveready.

[pjandyho]

I notice there seems to be a tension somewhere near the max possible output for my Eiger 219 with QTC. Just had to twist it a little bit more (harder) to get the highest output. Don't really like it this way as turning it off would require a hard twist on the reverse, not easily operable with one hand, and almost impossible when my hands are wet. Other than that, I kind of love this light. Mine is the SS body and it is beautiful, even the tint is beautiful.

[eala]

Ok, I can't get a response from Oveready to either answer my question on whether the 219 head I ordered is normal (barely lighting on an NimH) nor have they replied to my email about sending the wrong body (ordered a pocket SS body, got a stubby keychain body). I have emailed a couple times. Don't want to pester them, but I am thinking that they are on vacation or something.

Anybody know otherwise? Anybody have communication from them this week?

eala

[whateatsrabbits]

Hey eala I have communicated with overready on the 17th. I Had a similar problem to you, my eiger 219 is dim and flickers on primaries. Such a disappointment, I gave them a chance to make it right, they sent me a body and I have the same problem so its getting returned.

[ElectronGuru]

PM's sent.

[eala]

PM replied to. Thanks for replying here. No idea what happened with the emails.

eala

[ElectronGuru]

It's possibly a technical issue, but more likely just got buried. Our inbox volume has gotten rather intense.

[eala]

I must say, Oveready fixed the issue lickity split. Thanks guys.

eala

[Tsujigiri]

Just got mine, shipping was ridiculously fast! I guess I'll just have to take their word on the emitter type, since there are no markings, but I do see a clear difference in the quality of its light as opposed to the typical CW LED lights I have. A couple questions: what does the "N" mean on the battery contact on the head, and have people had problems with the short lug breaking like on the similar lug of the Arc AAA light?

[jabe1]

No broken lugs that I've heard of. The N is for neutral or Nichia.

[Tsujigiri]

No broken lugs that I've heard of. The N is for neutral or Nichia.

Thanks, I figured that it meant Nichia, but then I saw that someone had a non-Nichia with that marking. Now that makes sense. I went with the stainless version because it should be the strongest and has a lower fatigue limit unlike aluminum, so I think the lug will be ok. So far I'm really happy with this light! The machining isn't perfect, but considering the other features it has, I don't think there's a better aaa light out there.

[ElectronGuru]

I went with the stainless version because it should be the strongest and has a lower fatigue limit unlike aluminum, so I think the lug will be ok.

It may be helpful to know that Peak did the machining on the Arc AAA's, with the same lug style.

[dudemar]

The Logan has relatively limited mass, since it is a small pocket light, so holding it while running helps to both provide a "heat sink" path away from the light and to monitor the temperature while running. If it gets too hot to hold comfortably, it may be best to turn it down or off.

I don't think it would be wise to run on max while unattended (such as tailstanding, for example).

I have seen posts reporting possible melting or deformation of the optic, if it gets too hot....

EDIT - found it -

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=327135

The optic was melting in my Hi-CRI SS head. Peak repaired my light using a different epoxy. I don't know if it's miracle epoxy, because the head works very nicely. Running it in 5~10 sec. bursts on a Li-ion 17500 used to overheat the head. Now I can do the same without overheating it. I'm sure if it's pushed hard enough it could melt the optic again, but I'm not going to do that.

I would buy another one from Oveready but I'm broke.

[Tsujigiri]

It may be helpful to know that Peak did the machining on the Arc AAA's, with the same lug style.

Interesting to know... was that always the case?

Also, the QTC on my light has become a little finicky. Sometimes it will go straight from off to full blast, but if you shake the light enough or take apart and reassemble the pill a few times it ramps up normally. Is this a common issue, and is there a way to fix it so it ramps every time? The light is two days old, so it couldn't be aging of the QTC.

[Mr Floppy]

The only reason I ask is that international postage for Oveready is more expensive pushing it to over $100 AU

Sorry but how much was the postage you calculated? If any one else has shipped to Australia? It seems to me that international is either $8 or $18?

[Mr Floppy]

Does anyone know if the driver is still the same with nichia 219?
For instance, 1.2V current is 350mA over the LED, 1A at tailcap? 3V 750mA over the LED, 1A at tailcap etc? (The figures I used here are a guess based on previous threads)

[ElectronGuru]

Logan Mule with Nichia 219 ...

Are the mule heads still in the works?

The first pure flood (mule) heads are finished, for both sizes, in both LEDs.

[archimedes]

The first pure flood (mule) heads are finished, for both sizes, in both LEDs.

Are those the ones up now on the site listed as "Flood" ? .... Any photos?

[ElectronGuru]

Are those the ones up now on the site listed as "Flood" ? .... Any photos?

Yes, listed as Flood, here's a view with a shaved body:

[jabe1]

Beautiful!

How are you at beamshot photos? I'd love to see some comparison shots of the different Peak offerings.