Triple 3-Up Indus 3C Mag (Direct Drive) build

DMC

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
175
Location
Austin
Here are pictures for my triple 3-Up Indus 3C Mag (Direct Drive) build.

P1000942.JPG


Parts:
3 (R5) Cool-White 3-Up Indus Stars from LedSuppy
3 Narrow 3-Up Carclo Lens from LedSuppy
1 Adjustable Heat-sink2 from Download
1 Connecting socket, 80C 300V 22AWG from Download
3 AW IMR 26500 2300mAh LiMN rechargeable lithium battery from LightHound
1 52.1mm UCL Lens for Mag C & D Size Flashlights from LightHound
1 3x26500 M*g "C" body from FiveMega see http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?278728-3x26500-M*g-quot-C-quot-body
Thermal paste
Heat Shrink Tubing
Wire at least 28-26 AWG

Extras:
1 MagRing2 from Download and lanyard
52MM GID O-ring

This is a direct drive Mag mod, since the voltage of three 26500 batteries in serial is 3*3.7 = 11.1 volts and can direct drive a single (R5) 3-Up Indus star.

FM's 3x26500 M*g " C" body is perfect for holding three AW 26500 batteries. Otherwise, you will need to bore out the 3C M*g body tube and modify the tail spring for the three 26500 batteries to fit.

You may have notice that the Mag body is bare aluminum. I used Easy-Off oven cleaner to stripe off the anodized black coating and Mother's polish to shine. Did you every try to find a black flashlight in the dark.:sick2:

Now, thermal paste the three 3-Up Indus Stars to Download's adjustable Heat-sink2. I placed the three stars around the hole in the Heat-sink2. Wire (26-28 AWG wire) the three stars in parallel to the one of the connecting sockets.

P1000931.JPG


Remove the M*g switch from the body and modify the switch by remove the pedestal assembly and wire the other connecting socket to M*g switch.

P1000934.JPG


For some very nice tutorials on how to remove the switch pedestal assembly and how to solder the connecting socket to the M*g switch see

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?228867-DIY-How-to-build-a-p7-mag-2C-for-under-30
and
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?189336-Tutorial-How-to-make-a-momentary-only-Switch-for-the-Maglite

Caution: with the current and voltage being used the chances of an electric short should be minimized. So, use the heat shrink tubing over the soldered connections. The voltage in the batteries and the resistance in both the tail spring and switch will affect the measured current and voltage, but three 3-Up Indus stars wired in parallel should theoretically measure no more than (3*1.5) = 4.5 amps at (3*3.7) = 11.1 volts.

Reinstall the modified M*g switch back it the body and connect the Heat-sink2.

P1000932-001.JPG


Next, place the three Carclo lens on the three stars and adjust the Heat-sink2 so that the top of the lens are even with the top of the M*g head (without the face cap).

P1000930.JPG


Swap the plastic M*g lens with the UCL lens and screw on the M*g face cap, but out too tight. If the face cap will not screw all the way down then check that the Carclo lens are sitting on the stars correctly or the Heatsink2 may still need some adjustment.

Last step, insert the batteries.

P1000928.JPG
 
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DMC

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
175
Location
Austin
Here is a beam shot. The first one is with the street light only and both are shot from the middle of the street.

P1000990.JPG


P1000991.JPG


Another pair, but centered between garage door and front door.

P1000995.JPG


P1000996.JPG
 
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DMC

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
175
Location
Austin
Just now I let the flashlight run for about five minutes in the house (75 degrees F) and measured with an infrared thermometer the flashlight head was just holding steady at just under 90 degrees F. Hot yes, but not too hot to hold.
 

Hill

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 11, 2008
Messages
318
Location
MA
Sweet (and simple) build with tons of light!

Similar build here and beamshots here using 4 x XPG triples and a massive copper/Al heatsink.
 
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