Aluminium canister + Maglite mod with tree SST50 @5A

ptit fred

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
14
Hi,
This is my first post on CPF as writer after a long time as reader only.
I want to share about my last divelight project.

The aluminium canister :
- size of the tube and closure : lenght about 330mm, diameter 60mm
- batteries: 8 x 18650 ultrafire 2600mAh with a delrin holder cabled as 4S2P
- possibility to charge individually each battery with a special home-made charger. It was made of 6 ultrafire WF139 in a single box, so it is able to charge 12 x 18650 individually. This is to cycle or equilibrate the cells at home. It need to use the "molex" connector. In use each "molex" connector is configured to create the 4s sub pack.
- possibility to charge the complete pack during dive travel with a 14.8V charger (or each 4s sub pack)
- taskled h6flex driver glued on the tube
- reed contact (no hole in closure) to connect the pack on driver
- the intensity is drive from the maglite by another reed contact
- 2 oring on "fixed" closure, 3 oring on screwed closure
-

The maglite mod:
- 3 STT50 5700k @5A so 4500 to 5000 lm expected
- reed contact to drive the driver placed in canister by a 3 contacts plug.

The picture of the canister, the maglite mod, the individual cell charger :
P1010494.jpg


P1010480.jpg


P1010481.jpg
P1010482.jpg
P1010483.jpg
P1010484.jpg
P1010486.jpg
P1010487.jpg
P1010180b.jpg
P1010181b.jpg
P1010183b.jpg
P1010187b.jpg
P1010189b.jpg
P1010192b.jpg

P1010156b.jpg

Already tested at 20m deep without electronics and cell : all was OK.
Ptit Fred
 
Last edited:

Norm

Retired Administrator
Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
9,512
Location
Australia
:welcome:

Fantastic first post, could you please resize your images to conform with Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm
 

ptit fred

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
14
Hi Norm,
Ok for the size of pictures for my next posts. Sorry.
Thanks for the approval.
Ptit Fred
 

Norm

Retired Administrator
Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
9,512
Location
Australia
You will need to resize the pictures in this post please Fred.

Norm
 

Klem

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
581
Location
Perth Australia
That looks 'bomb-proof'. Excellent work Fred and thanks for sharing.

I like your idea for allowing the Maglite end to screw up but not twist any wires inside. Just wondering why you didn't leave the nylon cable gland till last to do up, which allows you to untwist the wires as the cap is being screwed on?

What are you using to focus the beam? What sort of beam are you getting?

Nice machining by the way.
 

ptit fred

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
14
Nice contact boards!
How about contact heatsink to maglite body? Looks like a lot of play?

Hi Walterk,
Excuse my poor english... and my poor understanding ...
By "looks like a lot of play", do you want to say a big gap between heatsink and maglite body ?
In fact the gap is very thin (about 0.05 to 0.1mm).
The temperature of the 3 leds is transmitted to the maglite body with the help of "arctic" thermal paste.
On the top of the heatsink (on the side of the glass), i made a place to put an o-ring between (at the junction of) the maglite and the heatsink. This o-ring is used to have a good support for the glass to avoid its failure.

Ptit Fred
 

The_Driver

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
1,177
Location
Germany
Thats a very nice looking light

O would never use cheap batteries like that in critical application like diving. I also think that they just don't fit in with a high quality light like yours. I would only use protected japanese or korean cells, if I were you (Sanyo, Samsung, Panaosnic, LG, Sony etc.):thumbsup:
 

ptit fred

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
14
I like your idea for allowing the Maglite end to screw up but not twist any wires inside. Just wondering why you didn't leave the nylon cable gland till last to do up, which allows you to untwist the wires as the cap is being screwed on?

I think during repetitive "mounting and unmounting" the external protection of the cable would be deformed and could be problem with waterproof. With this "complicated" solution, i could open/close the maglite as i want without any problem.

What are you using to focus the beam? What sort of beam are you getting?

I use 3 Lily reflector from Ledil with an angle of 20-24 degree : http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Powe...NUS-Lily-Reflector-20/24�-LT-1692_106_61.html
I could make some pictures of the beam this evening (the night is not installed yet there) or this weekend.

Ptit Fred
 

ptit fred

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
14
Following some draws of the canister and the maglite body.
The view of the maglite "top ring screw" is "as delivered" before to be shorten of 2mm to let the place to the 5mm glass.
In final version, the heatsink and the shorten top ring screw are at the same lenght :

coupe%2520canister.jpg


Maglite.jpg



Maglite2.jpg


Ptit Fred
 
Last edited:

arek98

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
424
Location
New Jersey, USA
Cool work Fred :twothumbs

Why do you have three wires to the head? (extra connection thru ball plunger)
 
Last edited:

Walterk

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
755
Location
Netherlands
By "looks like a lot of play", do you want to say a big gap between heatsink and maglite body ?
In fact the gap is very thin (about 0.05 to 0.1mm).
I understand now, the cooling is to the tube not to the reflectorhead.

Nice to see how you made sketches beforehand. What software did you use?
 

ptit fred

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
14
Cool work Fred :twothumbs

Why do you have three wires to the head? (extra connection thru ball plunger)

Hi Arek98,
The third wire is used to drive the driver power from the maglite.
I have a reed contact in the maglite head to drive the power of the Taskled H6flex driver (see on www.taskled.com).
When the reed is on, this wire is connected the + power supply (14.8V in my project) of the maglite head. Then, the tension return to the canister to drive a very little relay (5V coil 1A contact via a tension divider = potentiometer). It rise the tension of the coil to 5V to create a contact.
The pins of this contact are connected to the 2 switch pins of the driver (SWA and SWB of the H6Flex driver). This allow to change the power of the 3 SST50.

Ptit Fred
 

arek98

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
424
Location
New Jersey, USA
Ok, I missed a part about switch being in the head.
Neat solution for having switch in head and still short run to flex driver switch (SWA and SWB pads, which is recommended by George). Cool.
 
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
889
Location
US
Nice work , how much head and canister weight ?

P.S. You could avoid ball plunger and power connector by twisting cables with turns in opposite direction ( in that case you need space in back )
 
Top