Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

[selfbuilt]

Selfbuilt, could you tell much of a difference in throw with the XPG vs the XML?

Yes, the XP-G is more noticeably throwy than the XM-L (when compared both on primary or both Li-ion).

Of course, part of that may be subjective - the XP-G has a more defined hotstpot, whereas the XM-L has a softer drop-off into corona/spill. But there is no doubt the XP-G throws further. Whether or not it's enough of a difference depends on how far out you want to look - the XM-L puts out so much light, that at close-moderate distances, it doesn't really matter much.

[JudasD]

My primary use is at about 100 yards. A V11R almost gets there adequately, but a little extra "oompf" would be nice . I was thinking that the XPG would have the extra throw that i need. From your statement above i wonder if the extra lumens from the D25C XML could also give me the extra distance that i need? Like you mentioned though, very subjective.

Thanks,
JD

[selfbuilt]

My primary use is at about 100 yards. A V11R almost gets there adequately, but a little extra "oompf" would be nice . I was thinking that the XPG would have the extra throw that i need. From your statement above i wonder if the extra lumens from the D25C XML could also give me the extra distance that i need? Like you mentioned though, very subjective.

Possible, but the D25C-XML is a little more diffuse looking than the V11R, so subjectively the difference may not be very noticeable. The spot from the D25C-XPG would probably be more noticeable.

[JudasD]

Possible, but the D25C-XML is a little more diffuse looking than the V11R, so subjectively the difference may not be very noticeable. The spot from the D25C-XPG would probably be more noticeable.

This is very good feedback. Thank you selfbuilt. It looks like the XPG will be the one to get.

JD

[selfbuilt]

This is very good feedback. Thank you selfbuilt. It looks like the XPG will be the one to get.

If throw is really important to you, you might to also consider the upcoming Nitecore EC1. It looks to have a bigger head and larger reflector, and could very well throw further. I will be be reviewing this series when it is ready (last updated I had from the manufacturer was an end-of-June launch, so expect my review sometime early-mid July, if everything stays on track).

[shramj]

I just orderd the D25LC2 with the Neutral White XP-G. I wanted something that had a little more throw than flood so I went with the XP-G. Wish it had a forward clicky but all the other features make up for it.

[BWX]

It's funny, throw and flood become very subjective when comparing lights where one is brighter.

Out my front door I have a couple hundred yards to work with, and on high, the D25LC2 ''throws'' better than my xp-g aa lights with smaller hot spots just because it's 5 times brighter (est.), even though the ''hot spot'' is 10 times (est.) the size at 100 yards, it's still lighting things up out there, just more things at a time.. but only because it's so much brighter overall.

[shelm]

Would anyone know where the male threads are on the D25A?
On the D25C the male threads are on head, on the D25LC2 the male threads are on the body.

i would prefer the male threads on the body.

[JudasD]

If throw is really important to you, you might to also consider the upcoming Nitecore EC1. It looks to have a bigger head and larger reflector, and could very well throw further. I will be be reviewing this series when it is ready (last updated I had from the manufacturer was an end-of-June launch, so expect my review sometime early-mid July, if everything stays on track).

This is a very interesting looking light. Thank you for the heads-up selfbuilt.

JD

[yowzer]

I just orderd the D25LC2 with the Neutral White XP-G. I wanted something that had a little more throw than flood so I went with the XP-G. Wish it had a forward clicky but all the other features make up for it.

I picked up a LC2 with a NW XM-L a few weeks ago, because I like compact, bright, floody lights. Liking it a lot better than the Spark SL6-740NW that's been my go-to light for the role. Smaller, just as bright, better UI (Never thought I'd say that about a reverse clicky!). Just need to find something to act as a diffuser (The Spark is boasting a frosted lens for an awesome smooth wall of light). I'm very happy with it, especially for the price.

The XP-G ones I was playing with when picking it out looked like they had pretty decent throw for the size of the reflector, but indoors with the lights on it was hard to say for sure. I'm debating picking up the AA version as an EDC light...

[BWX]

I bought a diffuser from Amazon a couple months ago and just tried it on my LC2.. it works perfectly.. like it was made for it.
''Olight T Series Diffuser T Series Flashlight Diffuser, White'' ASIN: B0051F7YAI from Amazon.
It looks perfect on the flashlight too.

edit..
BTW I also replaced my Spark SL6-800CW with this LC2, and I used the diffuser on my Spark quite a bit. The lens on the Olight diffuser above uses the same type of diffuser glass.. It's bigger w/ the diffuser on though, but it's nice soft rubber.. won't chew up the inside of a pocket.

[shelm]

on my LC2.. it works perfectly.. like it was made for it.

very good info. according to specs and selfbuilt's measurement the bezel has a 22.50mm diameter. Tank007 has candle-like diffuser cones/tips for such diameters too but a diffuser LENS like the Olight is much more useful i think. I think i am going to buy the Olight lens too. Seems to fit on many bezel diameters.. let's find out!

[selfbuilt]

''Olight T Series Diffuser T Series Flashlight Diffuser, White'' ASIN: B0051F7YAI from Amazon.
It looks perfect on the flashlight too.

very good info. according to specs and selfbuilt's measurement the bezel has a 22.50mm diameter. Tank007 has candle-like diffuser cones/tips for such diameters too but a diffuser LENS like the Olight is much more useful i think. I think i am going to buy the Olight lens too. Seems to fit on many bezel diameters.. let's find out!

The M-series and T-series diffusers from Olight are very valuable. They have a good quality glass lens with soft rubber cover. And because of the internal design of the rubber, they can fit on a variety of bezel sizes - there are little rubber "feet" that hold tightly against smaller bezels, but you can also fit it over larger ones by not pressing it up all the way. Highly recommended for a wide variety of lights. As long as you get the model that is most appropriate, you should be able to get it to fit fairly well on most lights.

[shelm]

but you can also fit it over larger ones by not pressing it up all the way. Highly recommended for a wide variety of lights

some China-based sites like HKequipment . net sell it for 6.49 incl free shipping so i placed my order with them. will report back how well it fits my D25LC2!! Thanks again for the good tip!

Btw, the D25 series (Mini, Mini Ti, Clicky, Clicky Ti) has to be an immense selling success for EagleTac, glad to see:
On 2012-06-24, amazing, after 2 weeks already, this review thread ranks on #29 of the most popular 268 CPF review threads (rated by number of Replies).

[phips]

I received my D25LC2-CW today!

The good:
- Great form factor, with the reflector being flush with the battery compartment; makes for a very comfortable length too
- Good beam quality
- Pretty much perfect interface for me (I locked out the turbo/strobe): super simple, no memory, goes from low to high, the blinking modes are sufficiently hidden (could be even more hidden though)
- High output, even without the turbo-mode

The bad:
- LED tint seems a bit purple, nothing big though
- Anodizing has some small blemishes
- The locking ring for the clip is larger than the body and I do not like the feeling of it on the otherwise flush body (I do not use the clip), if you remove the locking ring you are left with a sharp edge
- The locking ring seems to damage the o-ring when removing/installing it
- Moonlight-mode low could be lower
- The holster exposes the light to the metal snap fastener
- Tailstanding is wobbly

Current measurements

~3,8V				
				
1	LO	61		
	MED	246		
	HI	1220		
				
2	LO	33	~93,4h	~3,9d
	MED	145	~21,4h	
	HI	1190	~2,6h

[zenbeam]

- The holster exposes the light to the metal snap fastener

This is my biggest pet peeve with the D25 series.

I love the holsters - they are so solid and seemingly very well built (aside from the issue that the button snaps come undone fairly easily if bumped slightly at an angle). But even $2 "xxxfire" holsters with a similar build manage to cover the metal back of the button snap inside the holster with pad or cloth material - or just by sheer design.

My D25C began life as a twisty - and because I love the size and general unobtrusiveness of the holster when worn, I use it a lot. And in a very short order, I began to see the blemish where the knurling was starting to rub the back of the button snap and ever so slightly flatten at that spot - along with some loss of anodizing. But much like "accepting" that first minor blemish on a new car finish, I accepted this as the price to pay to use such a great little holster. Not a huge blemish mind you, but an obvious enough one none the less.

Then I bought and switched to a clicky-verter tube (gotta love going clicky and keeping that SS bezel!). I thought about putting something in the holster to pad the back of that buttons snap, but just didn't devote enough energy to the idea. So now even my clicky-verter tube has the telltale marking of the dreaded back-o-button rub.

I really don't understand why EagleTac hasn't remedied that one just yet.


EDIT:

Suggestion to EagleTac -

Email holster maker as follows:

"Please alter design of D25 series holsters to pad, cover or otherwise prevent direct contact between contents of holster (our awesome flashlights) and the metal backside of the snap button - now. Sincerely, the people that write your paychecks. Thank you."

[shelm]

And in a very short order, I began to see the blemish where the knurling was starting to rub the back of the button snap and ever so slightly flatten at that spot - along with some loss of anodizing.

This was a known fact from the beginning and also video documented on youtube. Well, have you tried to cover it with a piece of Scotch adhesive film? Cant be that hard.

[zenbeam]

This was a known fact from the beginning and also video documented on youtube. Well, have you tried to cover it with a piece of Scotch adhesive film? Cant be that hard.

Being a know fact from the beginning is my issue. EagleTac could easily have fixed this by now.

For the kind of money asked and for the kind of overall excellent quality of build that actually does goes into these lights and for the most part, the holster as well.... me having to "patch" it up completely pops the "bubble of excellence illusion". As a consumer, I should not have to "patch up" a product touted among other high-end competitor products.

I don't mind the minor blemish. I use the pocket clip to always orient the light in the same position each time I put in the holster - so the blemish will remain in one place only. And while the blemish has been accepted and is tolerable - I feel that the higher end (and I mean $50 versus $10 grocery store lights) flashlight consumer base should not accept the continuance of such a design flaw.

I don't propose to be the first to identify this known flaw. And while I may have already "rolled over" and accepted the damage it does to my $60 EagleTac D25C (that price includes the clicky-verter tube) - I still do not accept that the condition continues to exist. Having seen someone else touch on it, I thought I'd expound a little myself. For whatever it's worth.


And sometimes manufacturers are influenced by consumer feedback - including posts in popular forums. I would be pleased as punch if EagleTac actually made the slight change to the design of this holster in question as a result of (even if infinitesimally small) my own feedback here today. When of course combined with existing youtube coverage and much other commentary on the problem in public forums. And not to mention, I had a few minutes to spare today.

[Humminbird]

The good:
- Pretty much perfect interface for me (I locked out the turbo/strobe):
- High output, even without the turbo-mode

How did you lock out the turbo mode? I would like to do the same thing.

[BWX]

''- The locking ring seems to damage the o-ring when removing/installing it''
Remove o-ring beforehand.

''- The holster exposes the light to the metal snap fastener''
Extremely easy to fix with a small piece of cloth that has adhesive on the back.. Get it at sporting good store - they make it for archery, you put it on your bow so the arrow doesn't make noise and scare deer when it falls of the rest.. Or make it yourself with felt and glue.

''As a consumer, I should not have to "patch up" a product touted among other high-end competitor products.''
I think that's perfectly acceptable given it's such a nit-picky problem that's so easily fixed. My first light didn't work, they sent out replacement. It's still a high quality light, I just got unlucky. It's still a good holster, just has a tiny but easily fixed flaw. No biggie.

How did you lock out the turbo mode? I would like to do the same thing.

I think he just means that he uses it with head loosened.

[phips]

Actually I put a piece of paper between the body and the head, since I do not like the feeling of the loosend head.

[zenbeam]

It's still a good holster, just has a tiny but easily fixed flaw. No biggie.

Exactly. And it should be easily fixed.... by EagleTac not each and every customer.
I think that's what I've been trying to say, but I did Concision 101.


Nit picky? Maybe. I prefer to think of it as being detail oriented. Who wouldn't want me on their quality control team?

[cbr400rr]

They should just make holsters with Velcro instead of a snap button.

[BWX]

Exactly. And it should be easily fixed.... by EagleTac not each and every customer.
I think that's what I've been trying to say, but I did Concision 101.


Nit picky? Maybe. I prefer to think of it as being detail oriented. Who wouldn't want me on their quality control team?

Well maybe they will fix it. But until then? I say no biggie. The main reason, $60 for the LC2 is pretty cheap- I think, for an XM-L 18650 that's so compact and driven hard enough to be very bright for it's size. If it was $100+ like my Spark SL6 800 or $95 like the Zebra Light SC600 I think it might be easier to ''nit pick'', but for $60? It's such a good deal, I can live with some small almost non-issues.

[Douglejuggle]

Does anyone know how to remove the ring on the D25LC2 that you attach the lanyard to. I can't figure it out.
Thanks

[zenbeam]

Does anyone know how to remove the ring on the D25LC2 that you attach the lanyard to. I can't figure it out.
Thanks

In EagleTac's own words from an info page on the P20A2 MKII using the same lanyard ring: "use any sharp tool to remove the lanyard ring from the tail-cap"

I removed mine from my P20A2 MKII doing just that. I used a screw driver and pried it off.

It is actually 2 pieces that interlock. I think if I had known that from the start, it would have helped me understand my approach to removing it better. But ultimately, a quick pry with the screwdriver and off she came. Not saying that I recommend this wholeheartedly because you can scratch your anodizing or nick the lanyard ring in the process. I just got lucky and it popped off.

I tried a brief look at Google for a better instruction for this but no immediate luck.

Maybe someone else here has done this and can put it into better words that EagleTac's instructions.

[melty]

Does anyone know how to remove the ring on the D25LC2 that you attach the lanyard to. I can't figure it out.
Thanks

I just stick a fingernail into the crack opposite the lanyard hole. A little pry and the ring pops apart into its two separate pieces.

[selfbuilt]

I just stick a fingernail into the crack opposite the lanyard hole. I little pry and the ring pops apart into its two separate pieces.

I did the same, and it worked. It's explained in the manuals for some of their other models, but not in the D25C manual, unfortunately.

[jhc37013]

I did the same, and it worked. It's explained in the manuals for some of their other models, but not in the D25C manual, unfortunately.

Ha I pried at the lanyard hole for like 30mins becoming very frustrated before figuring out I just pull it apart from the crack opposite the hole.

[Douglejuggle]

I just stick a fingernail into the crack opposite the lanyard hole. I little pry and the ring pops apart into its two separate pieces.

Thanks , didn't want to scratch the metal or break the ring. Tried it like you said and it just fell apart in my hands. Maybe I can fit a rubber cigar ring in there.....