Haiku Ku switch problems

[mr.snakeman]

I own a Haiku XP-G 3 mode light that I mounted a Steve Ku McKlicky switch into (I dig trit switches). My problem is that with the new switch I cannot switch between the different modes. I remounted the original switch and am able again to reach all modes. I´m thinking that the switching timing speed is too short on my light engine to allow mode changing with the new switch. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions to help me with this problem?

[easilyled]

I own a Haiku XP-G 3 mode light that I mounted a Steve Ku McKlicky switch into (I dig trit switches). My problem is that with the new switch I cannot switch between the different modes. I remounted the original switch and am able again to reach all modes. I´m thinking that the switching timing speed is too short on my light engine to allow mode changing with the new switch. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions to help me with this problem?

I can't see any solution since Don's UI on his 3-speed lights are all designed for exceptionally fast pressing to switch modes. His McClicky switch can match the speed required but Steve Ku's switches are too slow.

Steve's switches would work in lights that use the Shining-beam driver with different levels or the GdUP driver.

[Henk_Lu]

I'll take the switch!

[mr.snakeman]

I can't see any solution since Don's UI on his 3-speed lights are all designed for exceptionally fast pressing to switch modes. His McClicky switch can match the speed required but Steve Ku's switches are too slow.

Steve's switches would work in lights that use the Shining-beam driver with different levels or the GdUP driver.

Yup, that is what I was afraid of. I guess I´ll have to change the driver to something with a slower switching speed. Sorry Henk, I think I´ll hold on to it for a little while longer.

[troutpool]

Try this: With Steve's switch installed, turn the light on to any level. Then do 4 "clicks" in rapid succession. The light should advance to the next level. This, at least, is how the Gavina works with a trit switch installed.

[fyrstormer]

Steve Ku switch? Do you mean the electronic switch with the metal button and the tritium markers on top?

[mr.snakeman]

Steve Ku switch? Do you mean the electronic switch with the metal button and the tritium markers on top?

Yup.

[mr.snakeman]

Try this: With Steve's switch installed, turn the light on to any level. Then do 4 "clicks" in rapid succession. The light should advance to the next level. This, at least, is how the Gavina works with a trit switch installed.

I tried it but these tired old fingers of mine just can´t keep the Ku switch up to speed.

[fyrstormer]

FOUR clicks in rapid succession just to change the brightness mode? No thanks.

[easilyled]

FOUR clicks in rapid succession just to change the brightness mode? No thanks.

This has not been necessary with any of my Kuku trit switches.
Its a case of matching the switch to an appropriate UI.

[mr.snakeman]

This has not been necessary with any of my Kuku trit switches.
Its a case of matching the switch to an appropriate UI.

The same here. Both my Gavina and Volere work just fine with the speed that I am able to switch to change modes. I have been toying with the idea of doing an emitter switch to the Nichia 219 4500k in my Haiku so I just might go ahead and do a driver switch as well to bring the switching speed down to what I and my Ku switch can handle. Does anyone have any ideas as to what would be a suitable LE/driver for this project?

[fyrstormer]

The GDuP might work well. It's the right size to fit in an Aleph-compatible light engine. Its mode-switching is based on the amount of time the light is on before being shut off again, unlike McGizmo drivers which mode-switch based on the amount of time the light is off before being turned on again, though. It makes little functional difference, but it *is* different nonetheless.

As far as I know there are no third-party drivers available that behave exactly the way McGizmo drivers do, but for your purposes you obviously don't want to duplicate McGizmo driver functionality anyway.

[easilyled]

The GDuP might work well. It's the right size to fit in an Aleph-compatible light engine. Its mode-switching is based on the amount of time the light is on before being shut off again, unlike McGizmo drivers which mode-switch based on the amount of time the light is off before being turned on again, though. It makes little functional difference, but it *is* different nonetheless.

As far as I know there are no third-party drivers available that behave exactly the way McGizmo drivers do, but for your purposes you obviously don't want to duplicate McGizmo driver functionality anyway.

I agree. (I mentioned it in post #2 )

In fact Don used the GDuP in some of his 3-stage lights at one time.

[RocketTomato]

You can always try quickly twisting your Hai-Ku² to change modes.

[fyrstormer]

I don't think twisting will work. The battery makes contact with the light engine all the way until the head falls off the light.

[mr.snakeman]

I agree. (I mentioned it in post #2 )

In fact Don used the GDuP in some of his 3-stage lights at one time.

So if I can get my hands on one and the Nichia 219 is this a difficult mod to do (I´ve never modded before and I would hate to screw up a $400 light)? Also, which one would be the better choice, the regular one (700ma high) or the high output (1200ma high)?

[easilyled]

So if I can get my hands on one and the Nichia 219 is this a difficult mod to do (I´ve never modded before and I would hate to screw up a $400 light)? Also, which one would be the better choice, the regular one (700ma high) or the high output (1200ma high)?

I'm the wrong person to ask when it comes to actually building a L.E.

I know some theory, but when it comes to actually doing any modding, I would trust my cat more than myself.

From what I've read the 219s can be pushed to 1200ma without a problem, so the issues would come down to whether there's sufficient heat-sinking in the the Haiku and whether the runtime suited you. If you only intend to use the high-level in bursts then there should be no problem at all.

As to how easy the mod is, I'd either email Don (McGizmo) or PM datiLED. They would both be able to give you a very good answer.

[RocketTomato]

I don't think twisting will work. The battery makes contact with the light engine all the way until the head falls off the light.

True, I was thinking more of the PD design even though I knew this was a Haiku.

[mr.snakeman]

[QUOTE=easilyled;3963549]I'm the wrong person to ask when it comes to actually building a L.E.

I know some theory, but when it comes to actually doing any modding, I would trust my cat more than myself.

[/QUOTE)
And I´ll have to ask my snakes for help, ops, no help there. I guess i`ll have to ask the big boys for help on this one, Don, please jump in if you feel motivated.

[fyrstormer]

If you're going to use a GDuP, specify your own amperage values. I annoyed Wayne until he made the option available to specify custom values on the website, and now that it's there, you might as well use it.

[jake royston]

im ordering the High output GDuP to upgrade my haiku. Ill be using a Cree xpg Q4 80CRI from illuminationsupply. Ill let you know how it goes!
jake

[jake royston]

im ordering the High output GDuP to upgrade my haiku. Ill be using a Cree xpg Q4 80CRI from illuminationsupply. Ill let you know how it goes!
jake

Got my driver in the mail today!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...11#post3971411