Sold out!
Next shipment of copper PCB are expected to arrive on Wednesday but I am not certain...
Sold out!
Next shipment of copper PCB are expected to arrive on Wednesday but I am not certain...
Ah, bummer. If they do indeed arrive on Wednesday I'll take one.
Ordered 100 copper pcb on this next shipment. ;-)
put me on the next list![]()
COPPER!!! COPPER!!! COPPER!!!
Does that mean they've arrived? If so, I'll take one plus a McClicky for a Solarforce L2, as we discussed via PM.
Two for me thanks
These look great cannot wait to test them out.
PS: How did I miss this thread the first time around
cheers
WTB: DEF1, DEF2 & DEF3A Z44 Bezels with logo’s ? Any logo, Old Z44 bezel's HA or Black good $$ paid for mint ones the ones with no bezel ring lexan type early version, Laser products Z41 tail caps HA or BLK mint also.
All Shallow smooth + Deep pill sold out.
Deeper reflector = more throw but shallow pill = less solder fill/ heat sinking.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
do you have a comparison shot of the deep modules vs. shallow? I'm not sure which to get, but I'm leaning towards deep honestly (I tend to be a fan of OP)
Last edited by tobrien; 09-03-2012 at 11:05 AM.
all lights: view here (4Sevens, Surefire, Malkoff, Ra Lights, etc.)
Shallow are SOLD OUT indefinitely :-(. Light OP makes the best beam profile. P60 are never meant for throw really...
all lights: view here (4Sevens, Surefire, Malkoff, Ra Lights, etc.)
all lights: view here (4Sevens, Surefire, Malkoff, Ra Lights, etc.)
pm sent
all lights: view here (4Sevens, Surefire, Malkoff, Ra Lights, etc.)
I got one last 1300 lumen deep pill with shallow smooth reflector left. If you do not prefer the shallow smooth I could fit a Light OP on it but this would beam a longer drop in so you will need a Oring to fill in the gap between the bezel and the body. Let me know if you are interested.
Hi, I have a quick question.
Since the star is copper, can't you just solder the star to the brass pill? It sounds like you are using arctic alumina or arctic silver.
Soldering the star with LED to the pill requires lots of heat. That would destroy the LED for sure.
If I solder the star onto the pill without the LED then I can't center the LED with the reflector.
If I do mange to center the star in the reflector I still cant flow the LED on top without everything drifting around.
All the extra heat is really no good for me, the led, or centering the LED in the reflector.
Plus I sodler fill my pill. TOo much heat and the solder will flow out.
In short too much heat destroy everything and/or shift everything around and is dangerous for me.
i got mine yesterday and started playing around with it and WOW!!!
THIS THING IS PERFECT! perfect tint and lots of output (LOP reflector, btw)
thanks a lot vinh! did you get what I sent you, as well?![]()
all lights: view here (4Sevens, Surefire, Malkoff, Ra Lights, etc.)
Remember. To wap the drop. Tight. With foil. Love. The sc31 too! :-)
Hi thanks for the response.
I understand that it would be a lot more work and I don't know exactly how you're making your drop-ins and in what order you do things so this may not work out so easily but I would imagine that using a higher temperature lead-free solder like an SnAgCu solder will give you a good ~20C+ temperature window over SnPb 63/37.