Copper P60 Tri-XP-G Modules

cmacclel · Jun 21, 2012

I just cleared up all the P60 backlog and have around 10 pieces that need homes. These are available to ship within a couple of days after you give me your tint preference. Please PM me if interested.

-Available with Cree XP-G and XP-E Tri LED Modules (XP-G more overall Lumens XP-E more throw)
-3.7- 6v Voltage Range-Solid Copper Heatsink
-3-Mode Driver with mode memory 2.8a Max High 675 Lumens - Med 230 Lumens - Low 44 Lumens -675 *Real* Measured Out the Front Lumens (Not LED Lumens)-High mode must be used with common sense as the light will get hot.

Sale Price $99 + Shipping with your choice of Neutral or Cool.

Pictures are of the Chemcoated Aluminum version

tanasit · Jun 25, 2012

Mac, hope you don't mind.
The copper one looks like below:

By itself can be a show piece. :thumbsup:

motigg · Jul 19, 2012

I received my copper drop in today. Very nice. I have a minor problem I'm hoping some of you might help me with. The drop in has a short spring and so in one of my hosts (Oveready bored 6P with factory Surefire twisty switch) contact is broken if I sort of shake the light or move it too quickly. I had to take the "battery bumper" out of the host to make contact at all. This doesn't happen in my other Surefire host, which has a McClicky (but no battery bumper). Questions: does the McClicky switch go down further into the host than the factory Surefire twisty switch? What can I do to improve contact? Do I have to upgrade to McClicky, or can I stretch the spring on the drop in? On a previous thread regarding these drop ins someone mentioned stretching the spring but I have two left hands and am worried about damage. How hard can I pull? Should I use pliars? Etc.

Any help would be much appreciated.

badtziscool · Jul 19, 2012

motigg said:
I received my copper drop in today. Very nice. I have a minor problem I'm hoping some of you might help me with. The drop in has a short spring and so in one of my hosts (Oveready bored 6P with factory Surefire twisty switch) contact is broken if I sort of shake the light or move it too quickly. I had to take the "battery bumper" out of the host to make contact at all. This doesn't happen in my other Surefire host, which has a McClicky (but no battery bumper). Questions: does the McClicky switch go down further into the host than the factory Surefire twisty switch? What can I do to improve contact? Do I have to upgrade to McClicky, or can I stretch the spring on the drop in? On a previous thread regarding these drop ins someone mentioned stretching the spring but I have two left hands and am worried about damage. How hard can I pull? Should I use pliars? Etc.

Any help would be much appreciated.

It seems to be like there's not much pressure provided on both springs on the ends so when you shake the light, the battery loses contact. What kind of battery are you using? Is it a flat top or nipple? If you're using a flat top then a battery with a nipple might help with the situation.

motigg · Jul 19, 2012

I'm using a flat top AW 18650. I'm hoping I can stick with these and just make some adjustments to the spring of the drop in, or maybe get a McClicky kit.

hoplite · Jul 20, 2012

Same problem in a Cryos head, Moddoo tube and Triad cap with McClicky. Mac's spring doesn't leave much for stretching. I stretched the switch spring enough to just barely make contact, but have to use a magnet on a button top battery to be reliable. Mac,if you're reading, please consider a longer spring in future runs.

cmacclel · Jul 20, 2012

hoplite said:
Same problem in a Cryos head, Moddoo tube and Triad cap with McClicky. Mac's spring doesn't leave much for stretching. I stretched the switch spring enough to just barely make contact, but have to use a magnet on a button top battery to be reliable. Mac,if you're reading, please consider a longer spring in future runs.

My Drop-in was designed as a surefire drop-in replacement in works in all the surefire hosts I have tried. If you want to use them in aftermarket hosts that don't mirror the 6p dimesions then you may have to do some modding on your own.

Mac

motigg · Jul 20, 2012

The host I'm using is a Surefire 6P. It's been bored for 18650, but I thought that's what this drop in is supposed to run on. In any case, maybe I'll try the magnet trick, or get a McClicky kit, since the springs on those are longer/extend further than the stock 6P twisty spring.

hoplite, can you tell me more about the magnet you are using?

cmacclel · Jul 20, 2012

motigg said:
The host I'm using is a Surefire 6P. It's been bored for 18650, but I thought that's what this drop in is supposed to run on. In any case, maybe I'll try the magnet trick, or get a McClicky kit, since the springs on those are longer/extend further than the stock 6P twisty spring.

hoplite, can you tell me more about the magnet you are using?

A 6p Host is designed for 2 CR123 cells so if your flat top battery is a bit smaller you will run into issues. A simple magnet to creat the nub on the + side of the battery should work fine. Just be sure it's a protected cell.

Mac

motigg · Jul 20, 2012

Yes, it's a AW 18650 protected cell. When you say "simple" magnet, what do you mean? When it comes to electronics, nothing is simple for me! Can one buy a magnet that's just the right size to fit on a 18650 battery?

I should say that the drop in is very nice and works as it is. Unless I shake the light or were to drop it, contact is maintained.

cmacclel · Jul 20, 2012

motigg said:
Yes, it's a AW 18650 protected cell. When you say "simple" magnet, what do you mean? When it comes to electronics, nothing is simple for me! Can one buy a magnet that's just the right size to fit on a 18650 battery?

I should say that the drop in is very nice and works as it is. Unless I shake the light or were to drop it, contact is maintained.

Radioshack has small nickel plated rare earch magnets last time I checked for a couple dollars. Or you can order them online.

http://www.lighthound.com/Magnetic-Spacer--16mm_p_1046.html

hoplite · Jul 20, 2012

I got mine from Lighthound, and they work fine. One added to the button has stayed in place, and also prevents the battery from falling out when the tailcap is removed. A single magnet on an AW flattop works equally well in my setups, but you could stack two if necessary.

motigg · Jul 20, 2012

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I've got a new tailcap with McClicky on the way from Oveready (I'm switching it out for the one I initially bought with the Surefire twisty switch). That should do the trick because the McClicky spring is significantly longer than the Surefire one.

motigg · Jul 24, 2012

Just a quick update for anyone wondering about how this drop-in works with Oveready bored Surefire hosts. I got the new tailcap with McClicky kit installed and it works perfectly (6P bored by Oveready). The connection isn't broken when the light is shaken anymore, no rattle, perfect. The McClicky spring is longer than (or extends further into the host) the standard twisty switch and that appears to make all the difference. Great drop-in.

archimedes · Jul 24, 2012

Just FYI, I find that using short "dummy" spacers may be safer than magnets for contact issues .... Since spacers have a conductive center post surrounded by an insulating material, they are less likely to risk an accidental short-circuit.

Also, if the spacer is of a diameter similar to that of the battery/tube itself, it is unlikely to be dislodged if the light is dropped, bumped, or struck (as opposed to a tiny magnet).

These risks of magnet(s) would be further amplified, if using more than one ....

arvetus · Aug 21, 2012

What kind of throw can you get with these triples using the XP-E's?

iqwozpoom · Sep 18, 2012

Hiya, PM sent. I would like one of these if still available. Thanks!

Copper P60 Tri-XP-G Modules

cmacclel

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tanasit

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motigg

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