Help building a workbench table lamp or light bar

Hello everyone! I been searching for a while but have not found any real info on building a Cree powered table lamp for use when working on my bench. I mess around with RC cars and helicopters but the regular lighting is not enough to see clearly, so I would like to assemble a simple 4-5 emitter light bar that has some flood to illuminate the the bench surface. I have a cree powered flashlight using the XR-E emitter and I like the output so I would like to use the same for my light bar.

I'm new to all these emitters / drivers and my brain is on overload due to the amount of options available. Not sure if I should wiring them in series or parallel and which drivers I should use. Here are some specifics that I do know and was hoping you pros could fill in the blanks.
I would like to use:
4 or 5 XR-E emitters or something similar that gives a bright white light
I'm guessing wiring these in series? or parallel would be better for overall lumens?
Do i need a driver for each led or can one driver power all of them?
Would like to use rechargeable high drain batteries either 14500 or 18650's depending on the voltage/ drain needed to drive 4-5 leds. Would like to keep the cell count to 2-4 cells if possible.

Can someone give me some assistance with this project like what i need to accomplish this? Or if someone has time to build it I would like to hear some quotes also. I have twin baby girls and my time is very limited these days!!!

thanks everyone have good day!

illuminationsupply.com should be able to take care of you. they've got the 3000 Kelvin high cri Cree leds and the 4000 Kelvin high cri Nichia leds, as well as various power supply controllers.
Flexblock (available at illuminationsupply) is a buck/boost controller that would let you go with DC or simply recycle an appropriate AC to DC wall wart to power your lamp. Also there are two dedicated leads for attaching a dimmer switch or rheostat.
Parallel and series is up to you depending upon your power supply and needs.

There is probably at least one error in the above post. ;-)

I'd also personally use an AC -> DC driver and the Nichia 219 triple they have, or a hi CRI xp-g.