Im always worried when i bring such light to sea water
i.e. exposed electrode + conductive liquid
I hope that they would provide some solution to this like having a cap sealing the tail
Im always worried when i bring such light to sea water
i.e. exposed electrode + conductive liquid
I hope that they would provide some solution to this like having a cap sealing the tail
Just compared this to my TM11 and it definitely beats it for lumens both on Turbo and Hi. The new lightweight champ!
Battery carrier details and Fit & Finish section added (search 7/22).
May i know the beam angle?
Im interested in this light whether its uber-floody or normal-floody
About to buy it
TYVM
Given the relatively shallow reflector, it's more of a flooder than thrower. It slots between the TM11 and TN30 in terms of flood/throw combo.
If you click on Pt. 2 of my indoor shots in my sig, you can compare beam profile vs. T40CS since you have that one (but there are many other lights you can compare to as well).
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Tim
Last edited by turboBB; 07-23-2012 at 07:35 PM.
Ty for the help![]()
to turboBB - This is a great review! Good thing they went with the series battery config. for greater efficiency. A clean solid light! Thanks for all your work you put into it for the rest of us to enjoy!
to rufus: Just a few questions.
1) What about throw? Does it noticeably out throw the TM11 ?
2) How about tailstanding - does it wobble a lot?
thanks
Last edited by carl; 07-23-2012 at 05:13 PM.
life's big questions/answers here:
http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp
"So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God." Romans 14:12
@jh333233 - I forgot to mention, I have outdoor shots of TM11, TN30 and T40CS here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...beamshots-vids)
As mentioned, the T60CS is in between the TM11 and TN30 for both flood and throw.
@carl - Thx! and until rufus replies, you can also check the link above for a rough idea of how the T60CS throw and beam profile will be like. It will out-throw the TM11 by a little. As for the tailstanding, as mentioned since the new end cap is slightly tapered, it does tend to wobble if not set down perfectly flat. It's definitely not as stable as the V60CS which has a perfectly flat base and only marginally worse than the TM11 which also has a tapered end.
Cheers,
Tim
No competition. Even if you ignore the T60CS turbo and compare it's high setting to the TM11's turbo I get at least 25% more lux. With fully charged batteries and on Turbo the difference would be even greater.
It doesn't wobble at all. It does sit on the smaller diameter charging port though and therefore is more susceptible to bumps than the TM11 though.
I hate to say it as the TM11 was my first proper "flooder" but the T60CS, in my opinion, is clearly the better torch.
One way to stop the tail charger
stuff something inside the tube to insulate it
since the battery carrier only need 1 side to work
Yup or you could use a piece of electrical tape over one of the positive contacts. However, you'll need to then consistenly insert that end towards the tailcap and reverse it when charging.
On turbo I just measured the T60CS' lux @ 1m to be 27.3K vs. 22.1K for the TM11.
Last edited by carl; 07-26-2012 at 10:54 AM.
life's big questions/answers here:
http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp
"So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God." Romans 14:12
turboBB - Awesome outdoor shots for us to compare all the lights! Thanks again for helping the rest of us by taking the guesswork out of trying to compare all the lights!
life's big questions/answers here:
http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp
"So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God." Romans 14:12
K. Seriously the fuse is god D easy to get blown
Mine just failed during camping with no obvious reason, but by investigating afterward, ive found out the built-in fuse was blown, maybe some metal in my backpack swiped on the tail.
Whatever, ive managed to DIY a bypass to restore the function since the fuse wasnt quite "well-hidden"
between the positive terminal 1 and central rod, you can see it obviously on the board.
Gotta share the photo if i suceed
Tutor for blown-fuse re-activation:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...01#post3992501
Thx for posting that! I wonder if there's enough room for a mini-automotive fuse (w/some plastic shaved off) to be soldered in between... Gotta look into this now.![]()
Last edited by turboBB; 07-27-2012 at 08:37 PM.
My cam couldnt micro well but it was a black thing with Y written on it
That thing looked like resistor and capacitor, a tiny rectangle box
BTW: i believe doing so voids the warranty
Since mine was bought on a 25% off discount and i was too excited that i forgot to take my receipt, besides i dont wanna mess with the service dept. Im sure that the service will never be Surefire-grade so ive done it myself
I will not take the responsibility for any unfortunate incidents![]()
Last edited by jh333233; 07-27-2012 at 11:34 AM.
TurboBB - once again thanks for the review here and the youtube video - all great work!
Question: Sunwayman claims a 20 lumen low. Do you think this is accurate or is it higher?
Also, the battery tube doesn't screw into the head as far with the battery carrier in place (when compared with the battery carrier out of the battery tube). Is this ok? thanks.
life's big questions/answers here:
http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp
"So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God." Romans 14:12
carl, in general, Sunwayman has been conservative re: their output claims. In the case of the T60CS I've measured on my PVC LMD a bit higher on all levels (vs. claims):
Turbo High Med Low SWM 2100 1680 360 20 PVC LMD 2500 2100 485 55
Sunwayman utilizes ANSI FL1 which dictates that the average ouput of a minimum sample of three lights is to be used. My measurements are based solely on the single sample I've received for testing and done on my home made PVC LMD setup which has been vetted through at PF18 and with many various other lights. However, my numbers shouldn't be construed as 100% accurate; rather I post them for relative comparitive purposes amongst all the lights I've reviewed/tested.
As for the battery carrier fit, as jh333233 mentioned, this is normal and I've raised this in my Fit & Finish section. I've noticed this with the V60C as well. Sunwayman had informed me that they'll tighten this up on future builds. One thing you might want to check though is to ensure that all the screws on the carrier are reasonably tight. I noticed that one of the screws was a bit loose and contributing to the gap.
Cheers,
Tim
turboBB and jh - thanks for your input. As far as the low 55 lumens, I was asking because low would be for my midnite-bathroom-run. I prefer 20 lumens but I guess better that they err on the side of low numbers rather than too high and overstated.
life's big questions/answers here:
http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp
"So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God." Romans 14:12
I guess yes since the resistance of the jury-rigged bridge should be much lower than the fuse
But it also increases the risk of shorting at the same time to caution must be taken too in order to protect the user.
IMO i prefer working on the fuse directly than soldering a wire on the button since it would be less likely to damage the home-made bridge
Disclaimer: I liked this light
The low mode is easy on eye even with fully adapted vision so it wont cause many discomfort, based on the low lux instead of high lumen due to the epic flood profile
But a lower-low would be helpful for battery conservation despite the low mode lasts 60hr
+1 I like this light
@carl - unlike jh333233, I find the lowest mode slightly bright for my fully* dark adapted eyes (after I've been asleep for 2-3 hrs and then wake up). Again, it could be that I have an overachieving sample, in which case, that would be undersirable for the lowest mode but just providing another POV for your consideration. However, as he mentioned, given the very floody profile, there is no intense hotspot thus it should be easier on the eyes even if slightly bright.
@indy - I wouldn't say it would totally eliminate the risk of shorts since the electrical tape can always be pierced but it greatly reduces the likelihood of it happening. I'm going to take apart the carrier and run some additional experiments later and will post back the results.
Cheers,
Tim
turboBB and jh - once again, thank you very much for your input.
Its the best looking 3x18650 for sure. Love that side switch - right in the head! And sure, its longer than the TM11 but that's because it has a recharger feature in the tail and has a battery carrier for running the batteries in series - both great features and worth the extra overall length. And much smoother beam than the TN30.
Last edited by carl; 07-28-2012 at 12:28 PM.
life's big questions/answers here:
http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp
"So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God." Romans 14:12
Or you can even insulate the central rod @ 1 side i guess, but i dont know whether it would cause "breaking of circuit" or not
OK, so I finally got around to disassembling the carrier and here's a pic of that fuse (resistor?) for those curious:
I suppose if one were able to source that part and has very steady hands and a magnifier, it can be replaced.
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