MBI #3 - Codename: HF

[the_guy_with_no_name]

TGWNN: If you are serious about doing some of these in Brass... I would jump on that like no tomorrow. Ti is neat, i admit. but i love the look of brass, both polished and aged. Same gos for the CoreTi, if you ever do those in brass, its another guaranteed purchase from me. (if you decide to do a run of the CoreTi in brass, CoreBrass? Please let me know!)

If you do all 3 in brass, I would love you forever.

Hi GrimCreaper,

Thanks.
Serious? Of course
Brass is confirmed for the HF. Only planning a small number in brass for now though (20ish).
I feel like I'm becoming a precious metals trader these days

For the Torepdo & Core BR, something to seriously consider in exchange for your eternal love

Same here!

I'm surprised no one suggested copper (or maybe I missed it).

Hi Zeruel,
Thanks very much.
Copper, yes that will be nice too
Perhaps a little later (it takes me a little longer to arrange copper).

tgwnn

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Hi,

I also prefer to have lights attached with rings. This is one thing I really like about my 4sevens preon revo SS.

I would really love to see some sort of ring for this light and the torpedo.

I think it is Great that TGWNN takes feedback and looks for a solution.

xpshooter

Hi xpshooter,

I think I was writing a post whilst you posted this.
Sorry I missed it!

Im pretty sure I've found the perfect ring for this

tgwnn

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Could there be anything more powerful ??





tgwnn

[smokelaw1]

Could there be anything more powerful ??





tgwnn

Niiice....and we have a powersource. I thought they were going to have the NUKE symbol on them or something! That said, who cares what they look like, as long as they meet your (high) standards for performance!

And I wanted to ask a similar question as someone above. If someone already went off-low---off, they would need to remember that the next turn in the same direction will be high, which might lead to an, uh, exciting lumenous display if they try to turn to low the next day or something.... Is there a reason you DONT want markings for the modes?

Edit...man, I always do this to your threads....I just saw your answer. The smart thing to do is right for low, and then turn it left for off. If I want high, urn left....no going to circles, no confusion.
Thanks for answering my question days before I asked it.....again.....

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Niiice....and we have a powersource. I thought they were going to have the NUKE symbol on them or something! That said, who cares what they look like, as long as they meet your (high) standards for performance!

And I wanted to ask a similar question as someone above. If someone already went off-low---off, they would need to remember that the next turn in the same direction will be high, which might lead to an, uh, exciting lumenous display if they try to turn to low the next day or something.... Is there a reason you DONT want markings for the modes?

Edit...man, I always do this to your threads....I just saw your answer. The smart thing to do is right for low, and then turn it left for off. If I want high, urn left....no going to circles, no confusion.
Thanks for answering my question days before I asked it.....again.....

Hi Smokelaw1,

Thanks and no problem. Its a valid question.

As mentioned, I found that after a couple of days, I had no problems at all.
Kind of unconscious body memory.

I have to admit though, its fun to play with the endlessly rotating switch.

Im not so against the markings, but I like inconspicuous things and though I played around with some designs, I ended up asking myself "who the hell can see the markings in the dark anyway?"


Some of the early concepts.....








Anywayz....
when I shrunk it down to actual size, and then thought about in the dark....

Maybe a combination of brail + engraved/printing could work though.

Then again, Ti looks mighty fine when its pure.

tgwnn

[xpshooter]

Hi,

While the markings you come up with look ok. I do not have any markings on my preon revo and I am able to keep its modes straight. Granted I don't have many lights, but I do think a flashlight junkie is ok without markings.

Have a Good Day,

xpshooter

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Hi,

While the markings you come up with look ok. I do not have any markings on my preon revo and I am able to keep its modes straight. Granted I don't have many lights, but I do think a flashlight junkie is ok without markings.

Have a Good Day,

xpshooter

Hi xpshooter,

Thanks

Considering this is ont exactly a "for the masses" type of light, I think we should be ok.

btw, I thought I should mention, as always, there is one more special thing I have not yet mentioned about the HF....

stay tuned

tgwnn

[Got Lumens?]

I'm tuned in and waiting.....
I like your symbols idea.
I like the brail no print idea even better.
Something like open hollow centered circle for off, Half filled circle for low, and a solid circle for high comes to mind. Then I was thinking that the only cost effective would be a stamping, don't know if that would meet the high standards of MBI aesthetics.
Perhaps some centerpunch marks one on the low and two on the high might look better than a stamp and survive the finishing process better also. No marks for both off???

Those batteries look really good. You can put me down for a few spare MBI Nukes
Any word on the Cottonpickers chargers?
GL

[the_guy_with_no_name]

I'm tuned in and waiting.....
I like your symbols idea.
I like the brail no print idea even better.
Something like open hollow centered circle for off, Half filled circle for low, and a solid circle for high comes to mind. Then I was thinking that the only cost effective would be a stamping, don't know if that would meet the high standards of MBI aesthetics.
Perhaps some centerpunch marks one on the low and two on the high might look better than a stamp and survive the finishing process better also. No marks for both off???

Those batteries look really good. You can put me down for a few spare MBI Nukes
Any word on the Cottonpickers chargers?
GL

Hi GL,

Thanks for the suggestions.
Chargers, sure that is going to be an option at order time.

There will be a couple of Nukes included, so I think you should be ok but as they are very small, you can probably wear a bag full of spares and not even notice

tgwnn

[Got Lumens?]

Hi GL,

Thanks for the suggestions.
Chargers, sure that is going to be an option at order time.

There will be a couple of Nukes included, so I think you should be ok but as they are very small, you can probably wear a bag full of spares and not even notice

tgwnn

Hi Guy,
Nope I don't want to wear a bag full of spares .
I will wait for the Official MBI Annodized Ti 2-10250 Nuke Cell keychain battery carrier .
GL

[Bigmac_79]

If the goal is to designate which is high and which is low, being inconspicuous and simple, and able to be used in the dark, a single raised dot on low and two dots on high sounds pretty good to me. Or if you go with something printed, the lightning bolts get my vote.

[nfetterly]

1 Brass (prefer copper)
1 Ti

Although I didn't see price.... (still need to read some of the thread..)

[emu124]

Hi xpshooter,

Im pretty sure I've found the perfect ring for this

tgwnn

Sounds good .... could you show it to the audience?

[xpshooter]

Hi,

I cant say how much I am impressed and thankful with your eagerness to please us with such things as a proper clip.

I think most of us are jumping for joy to have the light as is, let alone another suprise. This is one dream after the next.

At this rate these things will be flying off the shelf. Mass production will be required to stop the mob that demands your lights.
--- If that were to happen you might have to put a WARNING label on them like " Do Not Look Directly at the Light " to protect the idiots from themselves.

Have a Good Day,

xpshooter

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Hi Guy,
Nope I don't want to wear a bag full of spares .
I will wait for the Official MBI Annodized Ti 2-10250 Nuke Cell keychain battery carrier .
GL

Hi GL,

Thanks. A minimus type holder so you can wear them around your neck might be cool

If the goal is to designate which is high and which is low, being inconspicuous and simple, and able to be used in the dark, a single raised dot on low and two dots on high sounds pretty good to me. Or if you go with something printed, the lightning bolts get my vote.

Hi Bigmac,

Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, I think raised dots could work well.
Perhaps 3 (in triangle pattern) for high and one for low.

1 Brass (prefer copper)
1 Ti

Although I didn't see price.... (still need to read some of the thread..)

Hi nfetterly,

Thanks
Somewhere between $90-$110 but with the dollar being rather low and planning to do an all inclusive price, probably closer to the higher end of that.

Sounds good .... could you show it to the audience?

Hi emu124,
Absolutely! (see below)

Hi,

I cant say how much I am impressed and thankful with your eagerness to please us with such things as a proper clip.

I think most of us are jumping for joy to have the light as is, let alone another suprise. This is one dream after the next.

At this rate these things will be flying off the shelf. Mass production will be required to stop the mob that demands your lights.
--- If that were to happen you might have to put a WARNING label on them like " Do Not Look Directly at the Light " to protect the idiots from themselves.

Have a Good Day,

xpshooter

Hi xpshooter,

Welcome to "MBI - Zen and the art of flashlight creation"

Look at it this way...
its the difference of if I just gave you a 12yr old kid and said "he's yours" or
if I let you see the kid from the day he was born, then raised, until he was 12 (assuming he's a great kid)

This is definitely not a standard consumer product. In fact just about anything that uses unprotected li-ion's in my opinion, is not for consumers.

Have a great day/eve too!



Below: Split ring candidates



I'll have to test with the final production sized head but thinking either #1 or #2 will work well.

tgwnn

[nfetterly]

Hi nfetterly,

Thanks
Somewhere between $90-$110 but with the dollar being rather low and planning to do an all inclusive price, probably closer to the higher end of that.

tgwnn

Nice price point. I had a Core in my "cart" several times, but I'm cutting down on lights. So after selling a couple I finally pulled the trigger on one tonight.

#2 looks good

Neale

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Nice price point. I had a Core in my "cart" several times, but I'm cutting down on lights. So after selling a couple I finally pulled the trigger on one tonight.

#2 looks good

Neale

Hi nfetterly,

Thanks for the feedback

Thanks very much also for the CoreTi order
Just in time as I'm going to remove the engraving option over the weekend.

tgwnn

[Got Lumens?]

Hi Guy,
#1 looks good. It comes in all sizes. I could also dig #6 as it looks cooler .
The other ones that only wrap half way around don't appeal as much to me.
Thanks for the pictures
GL

[climberkid]

I'm liking 6 and 2

-Alex

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Hi Guy,
#1 looks good. It comes in all sizes. I could also dig #6 as it looks cooler .
The other ones that only wrap half way around don't appeal as much to me.
Thanks for the pictures
GL

Hi GL,

Thanks for the feedback.
A fully double wrapped ring will need to be thin to get it to fit inside the lanyard hole, so I'll have to test and find a thin enough ring in that case. Otherwise, a half double wrapped ring may be necessary.

I'm liking 6 and 2

-Alex

Hi Alex,

Thanks. I'll see which ones I can get a hold of and post an update when they arrive.

tgwnn

[Zeruel]

Below: Split ring candidates



I'll have to test with the final production sized head but thinking either #1 or #2 will work well.

tgwnn

Given #1 or #2, #2 seems better. Have you considered D-rings?

[xpshooter]

Hi,

I prefer #1 because the end of the ring is set flush with the ring so it is less prone to catch on things like my pocket.
#5 & #4 look like they would not be pocket friendly. I do like the idea of a D shaped ring, but I would want it to be flush on the ends like #1

Not to be negative, but I am not too fond of center punch marks to indicate positions. I suppose if done properly it may look ok, but I have made enough center punch marks while doing metal work that I think it would look unfinished.

Here's an idea to indicate positions , probably a bit late but - I vote for two colors of trit, one for low and red HF mode.

But to be a bit more realistic with what has already been done, could we install two different color trit vials in the tailcap, and put a strip of luminous paint in the shape of a lightening bolt on the body.
-- Line up green or ice blue and the point of the lightening bolt for low
-- Line up red and the point of the lightening bolt for high

I would assume we would want a recess for the luminous paint so it does not get worn off. Granted, I do not know the barrel thickness of the body.

I realize the cost of the trit vials would increase the cost. I am ok with the additional cost because I know the vials are not free.
--> I vote for the colors I mentioned above.
These could be user installed, I am sure that letting everyone pick out their colors would be a manufacturing nightmare.

These are just ideas so feel free to pick them apart.

Have a Good Day,

xpshooter

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Given #1 or #2, #2 seems better. Have you considered D-rings?

Hi Zeruel,

Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, I/we considered a D ring (a few posts back...).
A D-shaped ring will carry lop-sided if the curved side is facing down/straight side up.
If the straight side is down (through the lanyard hole) there is far too much horizontal play (the HF can slide along the length of the straight side) causing it to go lop-sided again.

Hi,

I prefer #1 because the end of the ring is set flush with the ring so it is less prone to catch on things like my pocket.
#5 & #4 look like they would not be pocket friendly.

Not to be negative, but I am not too fond of center punch marks to indicate positions. I suppose if done properly it may look ok, but I have made enough center punch marks while doing metal work that I think it would look unfinished.

Here's an idea to indicate positions , probably a bit late but - I vote for two colors of trit, one for low and red HF mode.

Have a Good Day,

xpshooter

Hi xpshooter,

I wasn't exactly sure of what "center marks" were but having done a quick google image search, perhaps not the most elegant looking solution. My preference would be for very small raised half spheres.
I just did a test of 30 turns back and forth and to be honest, I don't think anyone will have any issues with this. Its too easy to just get it! R=low, L=high.

Trits! Now there's a nice solution that works in the dark.
Imagine some extra trit slots in the body (oh,no.. )

eg. blue & red in body, & blue and red in head

Then all you have to do is align the same colored trits and presto! (I think)

tgwnn

[Got Lumens?]

Hi,

I prefer #1 because the end of the ring is set flush with the ring so it is less prone to catch on things like my pocket.
#5 & #4 look like they would not be pocket friendly.

Not to be negative, but I am not too fond of center punch marks to indicate positions. I suppose if done properly it may look ok, but I have made enough center punch marks while doing metal work that I think it would look unfinished.

Here's an idea to indicate positions , probably a bit late but - I vote for two colors of trit, one for low and red HF mode.

xpshooter

I like Sharpshooters trit idea. I think you maybe right in the barrel thickness dept . Even a small dot like used in firearm sights would probably require a minimum of 1mm inset leaving the top exposed. The narrowest trits that I know of are 1mm glass in diameter and weak compared to the 1.5mm standard sizes I have seen. The in the dark touch and feel would work better. Perhaps some small milled lines may work and give it that finished look like say 0.25mm wide rounded mill? Of course this would allow any of the paints needed, and even a lightning bolt pattern for off. There are also square, rounded, triangular punches that could be used to give it a more aestetically pleasing finish. Raised dots would be great also, but I have found they wear or break off in time, especially with pocket carry lights. I am sure what ever you decide will be the perfect compliment to the light
GL

[xpshooter]

Hi,

While I am not to familiar upon the twisting action, I was thinking possibly just one trit in the body and the 2 in the tail.

As got lumans pointed out a tactical or feel thing might be easier to do, cheaper anyway. there should be enough meat in the tail cap to mill/drill two different shapes into.

Overall, I think I prefer nothing because it is straight forward as you designed it. - K.I.S.S.



One more thing I though of while looking at the photo, what do you think about rounding the ends of the head and tailcap.
--I am thinking along the lines of slightly rounded so the edges of the hex meet the body flush. The same radius on the outer edges to match.
---This would make it more pocket friendly and snag free for a quick draw.
--- Even the edges of the nuts in your first post are beveled, granted the bottom of the bolts are not beveled.

xpshooter

[DBCstm]

I agree with Shooter's end idea, Keep it simple, stupid. The KISS rule is always a good one to follow! And I think Guy's nailed it with the idea that a finely made simple Ti light in Raw Ti would have a certain appeal...it doesn't LOOK like it would be a powerhouse. Surprise! A simple brushed finish would do nicely, carry would only emphasize the brush markings not scar up a bead blast finish or a high polish.

Carry on Oh Wise One!

[the_guy_with_no_name]

I like Sharpshooters trit idea. I think you maybe right in the barrel thickness dept . Even a small dot like used in firearm sights would probably require a minimum of 1mm inset leaving the top exposed. The narrowest trits that I know of are 1mm glass in diameter and weak compared to the 1.5mm standard sizes I have seen. The in the dark touch and feel would work better. Perhaps some small milled lines may work and give it that finished look like say 0.25mm wide rounded mill? Of course this would allow any of the paints needed, and even a lightning bolt pattern for off. There are also square, rounded, triangular punches that could be used to give it a more aestetically pleasing finish. Raised dots would be great also, but I have found they wear or break off in time, especially with pocket carry lights. I am sure what ever you decide will be the perfect compliment to the light
GL

Hi GL,

Thanks very much.
Thinking about this and trying to not over-think it

Hi,

While I am not to familiar upon the twisting action, I was thinking possibly just one trit in the body and the 2 in the tail.

As got lumans pointed out a tactical or feel thing might be easier to do, cheaper anyway. there should be enough meat in the tail cap to mill/drill two different shapes into.

Overall, I think I prefer nothing because it is straight forward as you designed it. - K.I.S.S.

One more thing I though of while looking at the photo, what do you think about rounding the ends of the head and tailcap.
--I am thinking along the lines of slightly rounded so the edges of the hex meet the body flush. The same radius on the outer edges to match.
---This would make it more pocket friendly and snag free for a quick draw.
--- Even the edges of the nuts in your first post are beveled, granted the bottom of the bolts are not beveled.

xpshooter

Hi xpshooter,

Thanks.
In regards to rounding the edges that meet the body,
Did you mean the area in the pink solid circle, bottom right at the picture below?

Also, just for clarity, there should be only about 0.1mm from the edge of the round body to the flat side of the bolt.
It looks significant in the images, but nothing too serious when its at scale.

I'll check about rounding the surfaces at the bottom as well (where bolts meet the body).

I agree with Shooter's end idea, Keep it simple, stupid. The KISS rule is always a good one to follow! And I think Guy's nailed it with the idea that a finely made simple Ti light in Raw Ti would have a certain appeal...it doesn't LOOK like it would be a powerhouse. Surprise! A simple brushed finish would do nicely, carry would only emphasize the brush markings not scar up a bead blast finish or a high polish.

Carry on Oh Wise One!

Hi DBC,

Thanks very much






tgwnn

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Ready to be blown away?


Test results just back from the lab....

performed with no glass lens in the HF

because we are waiting on production of a custom anti-reflective lens to fit.



The initial OTF output as tested in the IntegratingSphere (drum roll pleeeeezzzeee)


680 Holy F#*lashlight Lumens

After a few seconds, it dropped down to a lowly 560 lumens

That works out to about 1lumen per mm of flashlight


The hero of the day....




tgwnn

p.s. my integrating photo booth is more accurate than I thought

[pjandyho]

Does it go back up to 680 lumen again after letting the battery rest?

[Ward]

Trits would be sweet!

Maybe you could consider changing the position of the planned trit slots so that they can be used as high/low indicators....