Canister light with bike light ?

Hi im new to the forum and have already purchased a TR-J1 as backup, but want to buy or modify a lamp for primary use, canister style most likely.

Im wondering why we don't see much chinese canister style diving lamp on the market, it is so easy to make and they sell this thing 1000$ !!!

So im planning of bulding or modify a existing lamp to be used for diving.

Im looking at bike light, they are some model that really look like diving canister light, the only thing that im concern is seal and leak.

Im looking for the Magic shine MJ-808E or something looking similar, XML led.


Do you think im waisting my time ?


(sorry for my poor english)

Welcome to the forum. You are definitely not wasting your time. You can buy relatively chead dive lights to use as a head for a canister light. Just remove the tail cap and JB Weld a threaded plug to accept a cable gland and done! You can also buy a diving head and rip out the guts, put in new ones and connect to canister. First thing is to decide why you want a canister? Long burn times, tech diving, etc.... You can buy very bright lights for about $100 which may suit your needs...

Thx for the awnser, im wanting a canister style because im wanting a powerfull light with a small size on my hand.

Longevity , Power , Size you can only chose only two you can't have all 3.

But with canister light you can have a Power and longevity and the size will be separate from the light with my air tank.

Im tinking this light could be a good one, it have a triple XML T6 led, and a small size (power + size)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4500-Lumens...0010063?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item41648fa64f

And the power switch is right on the middle of the back, it will be easy to put the cable there.

So my gess is it will not last long on a single 26650, so the canister will fix this probleme.

Let's hope the driver is not underdrive to have decent longevity on only one cell.

350xfire said:

Welcome to the forum. You are definitely not wasting your time. You can buy relatively chead dive lights to use as a head for a canister light. Just remove the tail cap and JB Weld a threaded plug to accept a cable gland and done! You can also buy a diving head and rip out the guts, put in new ones and connect to canister. First thing is to decide why you want a canister? Long burn times, tech diving, etc.... You can buy very bright lights for about $100 which may suit your needs...

Click to expand...

Hi, i want canister light to have power, longevity, and size (small)

Because i don't want to have a 12inch flashlight ducktaped on my forearm. (max. 6 inch)

Im looking at two model, DRY 3x XML and http://www.ebay.com/itm/4500-Lumens...0010063?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item41648fa64f

if you know a light that could be easily transformed into a diving light for canister, plz help me.

I wanted to leave a comment on your other thread with the triple XML (TR-DF003). It would make an interesting mod indeed as a can light head. Personally, it makes better sense to modify a light already meant for scuba. At least you won't need to worry about variables such as lens thickness and such. Other bike lights checked for possible conversion were shown to have thin lenses.

The light in you link will have a somewhat floody beam (you can tell because the reflectors aren't very deep). I dive in waters where 20 feet is considered good vis, and I have found I want a very narrow spot with a little spill. That means deep reflectors or aspheric lenses. A single XML with Ahorton 28mm aspheric or DX 44mm will give a brighter, much narrower beam than a triple with medium to shallow reflectors. For a full DIY, a triple Ahorton setup would be awesome! I've been diving my single XML/Ahorton light the last few weeks, and I'm not sure more light is called for, at least for me. Packhorse likes the W300 as a host, with its deep reflector. It's hard to argue with his experience.

If you are usually diving in clear water, a more floody beam is probably better, and your suggestion looks like a great host for your light. If the driver is underpowered (and it almost certainly is), you can get a better one from DealExtreme, sku 57779. It should be pretty close to maxing out the XMLs, and should fit in the empty battery area if it doesn't fit in the head.

If you want a higher quality driver, check out TaskLed and Der Wichtel (both CPF contributors). I also make one that can be useful if the battery voltage is above but pretty close to the LED voltage (with mine, NiMH batteries work out better than LiIon).

DIWdiver said:

If the driver is underpowered (and it almost certainly is), you can get a better one from DealExtreme, sku 57779. It should be pretty close to maxing out the XMLs, and should fit in the empty battery area if it doesn't fit in the head.

Click to expand...

My guess is that the 3x XML module in that light is the same one DX sells and I have here. Yes its floody. I cant imagine it lasting long driven at 3amp per XML with out applying a decent heat sink.