mini Maglite 2AA boosted with 14500!

CYMac

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how many of you did it ? anybody measured the lumen level (actual) ??? you lose all he modes but the highest output only, but then, it's worth it, haha! let me know if you also did yours, how is it? do you find it worthwhile to use the 14500 instead?
 

Imon

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Well first... I have my doubts the Nebo Redline puts out 220 lumens.
Second using 2x14500 instead of 2xAA alkaline batteries doesn't double the voltage it nearly triples it.
Third, overheating is definitely a concern and the LED life will be shortened - it might even fail.
 

CYMac

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Well I don't know how the redline is in ACTUAL lumen but then from the light and box it say it is 220 lumen on hi mde, so... it does the job. My mag did heated up very mildly after the 5mins on the 14500, very mild, not much. I think it is "okay" but then shortening of the linetime can happen for sure


anybody got the redline nebo?? can you put 10440 3.6v into that instead and get a stronger beam? or it will not work and burn up your stuff?
 

yellow

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wondering that thing did not :poof: immediately
:thinking:


Skip all that and get an actual, tested, out-the-front 500 lumens from one 14500, for $30 - the Xeno E03.
if they would make the light doing the same output (as with Ni-Mh) on all chemistries allowed, it could replace my Quark AA
 
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Imon

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Well I don't know how the redline is in ACTUAL lumen but then from the light and box it say it is 220 lumen on hi mde, so... it does the job. My mag did heated up very mildly after the 5mins on the 14500, very mild, not much. I think it is "okay" but then shortening of the linetime can happen for sure


anybody got the redline nebo?? can you put 10440 3.6v into that instead and get a stronger beam? or it will not work and burn up your stuff?

I would probably be more concerned about the temperature of the LED itself and not the body of the light. Although it might be difficult to get an actual temperature read on the LED I would assume that it's hotter than the body of the light and there isn't a great thermal pathway between the LED and body.

As for using 3x10440 in the Nebo Redline... well I think you're playing a dangerous game here. Three 10440s will be 12.6 volts which will probably toast your Redline. I'm pretty sure the Redline is a direct drive light and doesn't have a buck converter. Just leave the Li-ion cells to the lights that are designed to take them.
 

bob4apple

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I use just one 14500 plus one dummy AA battery in my mini mag. That, combined with
an ultraclear glass lens, gives a noticeable brightness boost without any extra heat.
I don't think your mag will last very long before it burns out, but I hope I'm wrong,
for your sake.
 

CYMac

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Thanks for all above guys, I will use the good batt for the good lights then. using a dummy AA and one 3.7v 14400 is a good idea, I love it, thanks for the recommendation!
 

CYMac

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tested, the 14500 + 1 AA is very good and you don't lose the modes too, nice! Thank you for the idea!
 

Imon

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My goodness... do not mix battery chemistries!

What bob4apple meant about a dummy AA was an inert metal spacer.
 
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CYMac

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what's wrong with mixing the akaline and the lithium there? will it bake it up or something?

dummy AA - metal spacer = got it
 

jorn

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Dr. Strangelove

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CYMac, you should also remove the video from You Tube before someone else sees it and tries it. It recommends doing something very dangerous.

In addition to reading the link posted above, go to the Flashlight Electronics subfourm and read the posts in the Smoke and Fire section.

We're all concerned for your safety and the safety of others.
 
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bob4apple

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The dummy AA I use is the AW battery spacer that lighthound sells.

You can also make your own, but remember to wrap it with electrical
tape so that the sides don't touch the inside of the flashlight tube.
 
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