Video Mag with Citizen CLL040 ~6000 lumens

arek98

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Dec 21, 2006
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New Jersey, USA
Hi guys,

Long time ago I found Citizen LEDs. They are very bright, efficient and small enough to fit in Maglite.
I started thinking about building video light around this LED.

CDL00.jpg


Recently it finaly started to come into reality.

First step was when George released HBFlex, high voltage boost driver with microprocesor (originaly I was planning to use Hyperboost but I really wanted at least low and high and thermal protection - had couple ideas how to solve these but at cost of added complexity). This allowed to use of pizeo and simplified a lot of things.

Second most important thing was that Will was kind enough to help with machining part.

Here are some pictures of components and almost ready light (I'm waiting for different screws to hold a LED and couple of o-rings). Still didn't decided if I should use glass lens or polycarbonate. I have both in required size.

Parts for the head. Finally all important are here.

CDL01.jpg


LED mounted.

CDL03.jpg


Assembled. No o-rings, gland not closed, just to see how it will look (piezo is glued in already, tube and head are glued together as well).

CDL04.jpg


Test. It works. Low level, measured current from battery 104 mA

CDL05.jpg


Canister parts. Battery back is 15 panasonic cells 5s3p with protection board with equilibrium function (balancing cells).

CDL06.jpg


Board used in battery pack.

CDL07.jpg


This is how it will look when finally assembled. Wet connector on canister will be also used for charging. Charger has the same cable as head just shorter.

CDL08.jpg


HBFlex is set currently to 1.5A, I can safely (within LED spec) push it to 2A. At 1.5A it should be giving about 6000 OTF (maybe little less). I can't measure it, it is too much for my "milk carton" integration sphere. I measure max output when HBFlex was set to 700mA and it was in 3000lm area (my "sphere" is "calibrated" using different light with "known" lumen outputs).

Currently when on high power draw from batteries is 63.4W. Battery pack should easily last for more than 2h.


Distance to trees is about 30ft (light is intended to be used at much smaller distance - 5-10ft).
All 4 photos taket with ISO 100, f/6.3, 4sec

Malkoff Hound Dog XP-G and Surefire Invictus, both on max.

D1.jpg
D2.jpg


"Citizen Mag" on max, alone and together with Invictus on max.
As you see, total flood.

D3.jpg
D4.jpg
 
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wquiles

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Arek,

It is very cool to finally see the various pieces coming together :thumbsup:

I am happy to have been able to help in a small way towards your project :D

Will
 

arek98

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Dec 21, 2006
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New Jersey, USA
Will,

It was not a small way! Lack of ability to machine anything was a show stopper here and you made that happen. Thank you very much for doing it and helping with all adjustemnts needed to make it fit.:bow::rock:
 
Last edited:

KuanR

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That is so cool! How does the flood look outdoors at night?
Would you be willing to provide a parts list for this?
 

arek98

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Dec 21, 2006
Messages
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Location
New Jersey, USA
Hmm, parts list may be hard… I will try for head, canister is simple, custom made cylinder, board from Batteryspace, batteries from wherever you can get ones you want (unprotected)..

Citizen LED CLL040-1218A1-50KL1A1 (it is only 65 CRI, but this was the only one I could get)

Maglite D

Barantec CMF6 in prolonged version piezo switch

HBFlex from TaskLed

Sealcon gland, CF17MA-BK M16 depends on cable thickness. Their website is here.
You can order from them directly or here.
Nut and o-ring need to be ordered separately (i.e., gland is just a gland).

O-rings – McMaster, Amazon, anywhere. 48x2mm metric for bezel are hardest to get in USA.

10nF optional capacitor for switch.

Lens, you need 52mm, 3/16in or thicker lens. I ordered 1sq/ft of double side AR polycarbonate from TapPlastics and drilled lenses with hole saw. Glass lenses need to be purchased unless you have a capability to grind glass.

Wet cable are made by Subconn, micro 2 contacts
But I think now I would buy these. They are also available here (same guys I think).
They seem to be kind of standard for diving lights.

Heatsink is custom machined by Will (see earlier post for link).
 

arek98

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Dec 21, 2006
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Location
New Jersey, USA
About Citizen LED. I purchased it directly from Citizen. I was able to get few (3) pieces because they had them in stock in USA (but I didn't had much choice for particular part number). You can order anything but if they need to ship it from Japan then it will take time and there is a minumum order amount. At the time I was told I need to order more than 30 to get part number I wanted.

IMO they are pretty cheap for amount of light they give. I paid little less than $30 per piece for one used in light above. I also have one 3000K 80 CRI that was little more expensive ($40 or something) but it is 1818 not 1218 (it has 18 strings or 18 individual LEDs) and has more output. Unfortunately this one can not be used with HBFlex because it needs more than 50V and HBFlex goes "only" to 48V. It works fine with Hyperboost though (up to current limit of driver).

I think they are better than Bridgelux. Higher efficiency and much smaller. I think Bridgelux RS that can give similar output is 50x50mm.

Recently I received an info that Avnet will be Citizen's exclusive distributor in North America. However, I don't see any listings on their web yet.
 
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Codiak

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Nice clean design and great looking build.

If you'd like the canister anodized send me a PM
 

arek98

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Dec 21, 2006
Messages
424
Location
New Jersey, USA
Added few beam photos to first post.

Sorry for late update but I had problems with potting electronics.

Tried to use Hysol US1150 urethane potting compound but it did not set. Some crap, purchased another pack thinking that one I had was old, tested few times and I cannot make it set reliably, using higher cure temperature only makes it softer - no idea what is going on. Comes with mixing dispenser so ratio should not be a problem. Had to clean whole inside of the head from back, removing as much not cured compound and then rinsing it with MEK. After that I used trusty MG thermally conductive potting compound and all is good now (tried to use urethane because this MG epoxy is impossible to remove after it is cured without destroying what in it and around it).
 

wquiles

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Location
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Added few beam photos to first post.

Sorry for late update but I had problems with potting electronics.

Tried to use Hysol US1150 urethane potting compound but it did not set. Some crap, purchased another pack thinking that one I had was old, tested few times and I cannot make it set reliably, using higher cure temperature only makes it softer - no idea what is going on. Comes with mixing dispenser so ratio should not be a problem. Had to clean whole inside of the head from back, removing as much not cured compound and then rinsing it with MEK. After that I used trusty MG thermally conductive potting compound and all is good now (tried to use urethane because this MG epoxy is impossible to remove after it is cured without destroying what in it and around it).

The one I used in the past was the Hysol ES1001, which is an epoxy. I wonder if the Hysol US2650 (quick hardening) might be a better alternative?


Those look pretty cool!
 
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