HDS UI Observations

eh4

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So I've finally gotten to mess with the Rotary for a couple days now and learned a few things that weren't so clear before.

Preset A is not arbitrary.
Preset B and C are arbitrary, as both are triggered by the same Double Click and the Turn On Preset can be set to any of the 4.
Preset D is not arbitrary, but's also more versatile than described.

We could just as easily call them
A
B1 B2
C

Or call them
A1 A2
B
C

Or...

CC1 & CC2
C-PHR -Or C+++-PHR for that matter.
CCC+

Why am I calling Preset D CCC+?
Because it isn't "3 clicks" but rather "at least 3 clicks" ... A baker's dozen of rapid clicks will still land you in preset D. In my opinion this makes the preset a great place to hide an obnoxious strobe or other "Panic" setting, just click as fast as you can More Than Two times, no counting or precision required.

And the same goes for Preset A, any number of rapid clicks immediately followed by press-hold or press-hold-release takes you to A or momentary A. Great place for an essential oe panic mode.
However, of progamming is currently enabled then this is not true, two clicks-PH going to brightness settings menu and any number of clicks-PH going to options menu instead.

Other observations:
HCRI Rotary appears to have 22 power levels, there is a greater degree of rotation without level change at both ends of the dial.

Opinions.
As useful as the extra flexibility of the UI is, I can see why it wasn't mentioned in the manual.I tried to be simple and clear in explaining what I found and yet look at the mess above.

At the cost of making the programming more complex, it would be nice to have a second programming tree so that programming for major changes (like which preset activates from off, preset levels, momentary, burst, etc.) could be set and then locked while still allowing settings like locator beacon, button lock, and automatic shutdown to be switched on or off easily...
The secondary tree could be programmable so that Any setting could be selected to remain adjustable when the primary programming was disabled.

It would also be nice if the slow Bright beacon could be selected to stay on even with 10 min auto shutdown enabled. -It is basically a long range locator beacon after all and there is little risk of falling asleep reading by it.

Rotary is Great for learning the system, a wonderful first HDS.
But I can see moving to a Clicky once I'm set in my ways about which 4 settings are most needful and wanting the simplest, most rock solid design possible.
 

AZPops

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You lost me at "So" .............
muttly.gif
 
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eh4

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Smart@ss ;-)
Sorry man, way too many words, I annoy myself trying to talk good.

To sum up my Main Point:
The excellent user interface is set up so that both A and D modes are accessible no matter how erratically the selections are made...

Seven rapid clicks goes to preset D just as well as three clicks!

Same goes for preset A (unless you have programming enabled).
 
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nbp

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AZPops said:
You lost me at "So" .............

I thought the same thing and I've had 5 Clickies! :crackup:

Glad you're digging your light eh4, they're great aren't they?
 

eh4

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Yeah I don't know, simple things can be difficult, and difficult to articulate.
This might be new to the UI, or maybe not.

With programming disabled:

-Any number of clicks+press-hold goes to preset A.
-Any number of clicks more than 2 goes to mode D.
I'm beating a dead horse maybe, but the horse doesn't mind.

nbp, yes it's a truly amazing piece of gear, clickies to follow soon.
 
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nbp

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After reading the "summary" posts and then re-reading the OP it makes more sense. Interesting observations. I like the idea of the panic mode. The only caveat is that the light must already be on when you crazy click. Three, or more, clicks from off does not take you to D, it just recognizes it as a click to turn on it seems.
 

ScaryFatKidGT

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How does the clicky work? Id like the rotary but as you turn it does it visable jump from one brightness to another?
 

ScaryFatKidGT

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After reading the "summary" posts and then re-reading the OP it makes more sense. Interesting observations. I like the idea of the panic mode. The only caveat is that the light must already be on when you crazy click. Three, or more, clicks from off does not take you to D, it just recognizes it as a click to turn on it seems.
Really? It only comes on in one mode?
 

TheExpert

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The programming of these is tricky really tricky at first but once you get it where you want it they are amazing lights. And yes the brightness levels jump on the rotary, but just enough to be visibly noticeable.
 

nbp

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ScaryFatKidGT said:
Really? It only comes on in one mode?

It comes on in whatever mode you program it to come on at, and from there you can enter the commands to access the other three you have programmed.
 

eh4

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I seem to be doing a good job at making simple things seem complicated... Sorry.
Not that it's easy, but most of the difficulty is that it's unfamiliar -unless you were already used to reading the blinking trouble codes on furnaces, cars, playing that Simon Says game and whatnot.

The rules are simpler than most card games.
I found it a little bit intimidating because of the timing and time limits to give inputs, but that went away with a little practice. The menus in circles and there's nothing to break. -except your thumbs.

I found that reversing my grip and using my index finger to program saved wear and tear on my thumb... Lots more fun to learn it that way.

On thing that really might be useful to people is to notice that some of the input commands and the light's responses are symbolic of what they mean But some of them are less clearly related to what they do.
So learn the most easily remembered ones first and then keep playing around and fill in the less memorable ones, one by one.

Personally I found Burst mode and Momentary mode difficult to remember, and I was downright confused for a couple sessions by the Turn On Preset but that's now a favorite.
Every variation can be learned in a couple days, it's a small enough maze if you just keep running through it and have fun. -and sore thumbs are no fun, use fingers or both hands.
 
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eh4

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It comes on in whatever mode you program it to come on at, and from there you can enter the commands to access the other three you have programmed.

And if you turn the Turn On Preset off, the light will turn back on to whatever mode you turned it off from last time. One more thing to remember but with TOP turned off and Momentary enabled you've got a lot of options for instant use, especially when you consider that it will also keep preset B or C in memory depending on which of those you activated last.

It's a real kung fu light.
 
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Megatrowned

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I've never used a HDS, but the more I read about them, the more intriguing they seem. Based upon your observations, which would be better to try first. A rotary or a clickie? And do the different models really that different in output? (170 vs 200)
 

nbp

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I've never used a HDS, but the more I read about them, the more intriguing they seem. Based upon your observations, which would be better to try first. A rotary or a clickie? And do the different models really that different in output? (170 vs 200)


The Rotary does everything the Clicky does, plus has dial control. So if you want the variable control dial, you have to get a Rotary. Other than that, the clicky functions are the same - in fact you can program the Rotary to not even use the dial if you decide you don't like it and use it just like a Clicky.
 

eh4

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Just as nbp says.
I love the Rotary, and it's excellent to learn on -makes it really easy to see the power levels and choose, but honestly I can't wait to get my hands on a Clicky.

The butt caps are a lot cheaper with the Clicky and there is less that can possibly go wrong, nothing weak about the Rotary body but it is definitely more complex and certainly more vulnerable than the dead simple Clicky body.
I'm really enjoying using the Rotary to easily select light levels, but I'm then using the Rotary as a Clicky after careful selection.
Four programmable light levels is excellent, rotary control for one of those is almost decadent, it is super cool, but a Clicky would suit me just fine -After becoming familiar with the system.
If I were selling them I'd lease out Rotary lights to customers while they were waiting for their Clickies, lol! ;-)
Actually, the rotary is just too cool, if if were one mode -rotary only, it would somehow make more sense.
I repeatedly find myself disappointed that it is not in fact a light saber.

Be patient and order a Rotary, understanding that in the long run you will probably be perfectly happy with a Clicky (and might well be ordering a Clicky soon after receiving the Rotary), -but you'll never, ever regret getting the Rotary... and if somehow you do, someone will gladly buy it from you.
-and understanding that there have been Significant delays, but that lights of Uncompromising Quality are being produced and delivered.

Ps, Just My Opinion:
Rotary for 120 high color rendering lumens, (photography, nature observation, fine distinctions and adjustment/finesse)
Clicky for 200+ max brightness cool white lumens. (simplest, solidest, brightest, meanest).
 
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eh4

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I've never used a HDS, but the more I read about them, the more intriguing they seem. Based upon your observations, which would be better to try first. A rotary or a clickie? And do the different models really that different in output? (170 vs 200)



Read the entire HDS website, take notes, the FAQ alone is an education in led lighting. I must have read it twenty times, lol.
 
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TheExpert

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Only thing bad to say about the rotary is no pocket clip, can't wait until Henry gets around to that.
 

Megatrowned

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Thanks for the info and opinions. Can't wait to one day own one of these. And there is a ton of info on their site, holy cripes! But that's a good thing :)
 
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