Peak Eiger Questions

[ScaryFatKidGT]

1. How many lumens are all the Peak Mt. lights? they don't say

2. What is the difference between the narrow and medium optic? are there beam shots?

3. Would the brass have better or worse heat dissipation than the HA?

4. How good and how low does the QTC go? Is it like other rotary lights or is it like a cheapy version? (This goes for all QTC lights if there is a difference).

[archimedes]

1. How many lumens are all the Peak Mt. lights? they don't say

2. What is the difference between the narrow and medium optic? are there beam shots?

3. Would the brass have better or worse heat dissipation than the HA?

4. How good and how low does the QTC go? Is it like other rotary lights or is it like a cheapy version? (This goes for all QTC lights if there is a difference).

1. Depends quite a lot on which battery (voltage) and tube is used ... Lithium, Li-Ion, NiMH, alkaline ... 1-cell, 2-cell ... ?

2. Narrow is (a bit) throwier, medium is (moderately) floody. All of the options for the Eiger are relatively floody due to the tiny size of the head assembly. Beam shots may have been posted, but searching via the usual methods would be necessary. To my knowledge, there is not (yet?) a specific thread devoted to Peak Mountain series beam shots

3. The brass is heavier, thus itself should have somewhat more heatsinking effect. The aluminum and brass both conduct heat well, however, and ultimately the heat is transferred to the user. For such a tiny light, the relative contribution of the heatsinking mass of the light to the mass of the user is small.

4. The QTC is an excellent, simple, circuitry-free, quantum physical, and extremely-low overhead solution to providing adjustable output. It is not a precise electronic mechanism to "dial in" and vary the number of lumens desired in a smooth, reproducible, and exact manner. The QTC has certain inherent and unique advantages, but also definite limitations in its use - I think that having reasonable expectations in what QTC can and cannot provide plays a large role in how satisfied users may be with this technology.

Hope that helps ....

[jabe1]

Archimedes summed it up pretty well. The bottom line with Peak is try one and if you like it, great; if not, sell it.

Personally, they're one of my favorites, due to their "functional simplicity".

[ScaryFatKidGT]

1. Depends quite a lot on which battery (voltage) and tube is used ... Lithium, Li-Ion, NiMH, alkaline ... 1-cell, 2-cell ... ?

2. Narrow is (a bit) throwier, medium is (moderately) floody. All of the options for the Eiger are relatively floody due to the tiny size of the head assembly. Beam shots may have been posted, but searching via the usual methods would be necessary. To my knowledge, there is not (yet?) a specific thread devoted to Peak Mountain series beam shots

3. The brass is heavier, thus itself should have somewhat more heatsinking effect. The aluminum and brass both conduct heat well, however, and ultimately the heat is transferred to the user. For such a tiny light, the relative contribution of the heatsinking mass of the light to the mass of the user is small.

4. The QTC is an excellent, simple, circuitry-free, quantum physical, and extremely-low overhead solution to providing adjustable output. It is not a precise electronic mechanism to "dial in" and vary the number of lumens desired in a smooth, reproducible, and exact manner. The QTC has certain inherent and unique advantages, but also definite limitations in its use - I think that having reasonable expectations in what QTC can and cannot provide plays a large role in how satisfied users may be with this technology.

Hope that helps ....

Well mainly how many lumes will the eiger do on a AAA? Im sure it will do over 200 on a 10440 and how low does the QTC go? Will it go down to 1lm because that is important to me. Also does the QTC ever wear out?

I thought about the turbo head but to me that defeats the point of a small AAA light. So what optic would be closest to a reflectored light like the LD01 or Preon?

Archimedes summed it up pretty well. The bottom line with Peak is try one and if you like it, great; if not, sell it.

Personally, they're one of my favorites, do to their "functional simplicity".

Yeah that is good advice I have given that a few times, theres so many people on here wanting lights that you dont lose much money selling stuff.

[archimedes]

Well mainly how many lumes will the eiger do on a AAA? Im sure it will do over 200 on a 10440 and how low does the QTC go? Will it go down to 1lm because that is important to me. Also does the QTC ever wear out?

I thought about the turbo head but to me that defeats the point of a small AAA light. So what optic would be closest to a reflectored light like the LD01 or Preon?
....

RMSK (Peak distributor) quote 75 lumen on (single) alkaline AAA, and 225 lumen on Li-Ion (rated OTF).

QTC can be adjusted for sub-lumen, but not rapidly/easily/reliably, or necessarily remain stable at that output. If this is a mission-critical function, you may be better served by an "infinitely variable ring" type of torch, at a cost of higher power overhead, added complexity, and shorter run-times.

QTC is a compressible metallized rubber compound and will experience mechanical wear (rated for > 1 million compressions).

Optics will have rather different beam characteristics than reflectors. For the Eiger, your choices are narrow flood, medium flood, or wide flood

[xoltri]

Well, I just got the Peak Eiger, short body, nichia 219 in Stainless about a week ago from Overready. My previous EDC was a LiteFlux LF2x (and a liteflux lf2xt but i lost it and never really liked it...).

Anyway, I am really loving this flashlight so far. One thing I liked about the LF2x was the extremely low low, and this gen2 QTC pill is comparable if not lower than the LF2x. And it's so intuitive to use; my wife could never figure out my lf2x (although my 3 year old had no problems) but with the Eiger you just tighten it to get more light. Very easy to use.

My only concern is with the durability of the QTC pill, but since it is so easy to remove and replace if it ever wears out I could just put in a new one, so no problems. The head and body are very well made. Of course for a $80 pocket flashlight they should be.

[SonnyJim]

I'm looking at getting that same light, but I'm stuck deciding between the optic and the mule heads. Anyone have experience with the new mule head? Any beamshots (fingers crossed)? Is the shorter head any more difficult to activate? Thanks!

[archimedes]

I'm looking at getting that same light, but I'm stuck deciding between the optic and the mule heads. Anyone have experience with the new mule head? Any beamshots (fingers crossed)? Is the shorter head any more difficult to activate? Thanks!

This thread ...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=345378

... has some useful Peak beamshots.

Although it mostly shows El Cap & Logan beams, the Eigers will be relatively comparable (just somewhat floodier, across the board).

[SonnyJim]

This thread ...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=345378

... has some useful Peak beamshots.

Although it mostly shows El Cap & Logan beams, the Eigers will be relatively comparable (just somewhat floodier, across the board).

Wow, thanks for that, most helpful. I almost missed the beamshot for the new flood, thinking it was just another control shot of a blank wall! Also curious of the difference in temperature between the Nichia 219 and the hi cri which looks REALLY warm in comparison. Isn't the Nichia considered CRI?

[archimedes]

Wow, thanks for that, most helpful. I almost missed the beamshot for the new flood, thinking it was just another control shot of a blank wall! Also curious of the difference in temperature between the Nichia 219 and the hi cri which looks REALLY warm in comparison. Isn't the Nichia considered CRI?

Yes, the Mule is entirely flood, without any real "beam" at all.

Note also that CCT (tint) and CRI (color rendering) are (relatively) independent characteristics. There are several very detailed threads on these issues, but there are warm lowCRI emitters, warm highCRI emitters, cool lowCRI emitters, neutral highCRI emitters, etc, etc....

[jorgen]

1. How many lumens are all the Peak Mt. lights? they don't say

Check out the RMSK website. In his descriptions he give the lumen outputs for most if not all Peaks lights.

[Costetl]

Thought I would start a anything related to Eiger thread.


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[twl]

deleted

[kyhunter1]

I have a stainless aaa Eiger that I like very well and use almost everyday. It is a non qtc model with the smooth flood optic and a R5 xpg emmitter. Level 8 output which means 40 lumens for a hour or so, then a very long taper. Ive ran it over night before continuous and it still had good useable output. Probably sub 1 lumen, but that's plenty in a no light situation. I got this one directly from Robin at Peak. For peak lights, deal with Oveready and your good to go. Dont bank on ever getting any response directly from Peak as they stay too busy most of the time to deal with customer service.

[Costetl]

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[arewethereyetdad]

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Great pic!

And: Archimedes, superb explanation of QTC!

[arewethereyetdad]

For Peak lights, deal with Oveready and you're good to go.

K, I went to Oveready's site a few days ago? And some say Peak's website is hard to figure out? Holy cow, the Oveready site is complicated as hell to buy a Peak light! Finally gave up!

[archimedes]

....And: Archimedes, superb explanation of QTC!

Thanks "dad" ... I think QTC is pretty neat stuff

[SonnyJim]

So thanks to the wonderful people at Oveready, I'm now the proud owner of my first (and definitely not last) Peak flashlight! It's an Eiger 10280 with a small optic HCRI 219, and I love it. First though some kudos. I originally ordered the wide optic head 219, but due to my lack of understanding, I didn't realize that "wide" referred to the physical dimensions of the head ( I thought it was beam profile). I wrote back to Oveready, and Sarah offered a no questions asked exchange, and even paid the postage! Customer service at it's finest I tell ya! On to my question. I notice in the off position, a slight battery rattle, but if I tighten it down a hair (with the light still not visibly on) it will snug down enough to silence the rattle. Is the light actually drawing juice at this point? Is the light effectively "locked out" with the head loosened up (to the point of battery rattle) so there will be no parasitic drain? I can live with a little rattle, I'm just curious.

[Costetl]

K, I went to Oveready's site a few days ago? And some say Peak's website is hard to figure out? Holy cow, the Oveready site is complicated as hell to buy a Peak light! Finally gave up!

If ur having any problems picking or getting a light, please contact me. I am friends with peak and would love to help you get a light.


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[Costetl]

Are your peak lights QTC or non- qtc?? ...I am very interested! I have one of each, and cannot decide for my next one.

I like having the option to not always have to run full blast with my QTC light, esp at night when I'm using it around the house and don't wanta wake everyone up. It's also nice to turn it down when I'm looking at something close. I can't decide... What do you guys prefer and what are your thoughts.


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[jabe1]

Sonny, Your light should draw no current unless you can see the LED illuminated (check it in the dark), and the rattle is normal. The battery needs just the lightest snug down to remain against the QTC pill and not rattle.

[SonnyJim]

Jabe1, thanks for your reply!
Costetl, my Eiger is a new QTC (I assume, since I just got it), and I think it's just about right. The head is a tad stiff, even after lube, but I appreciate the security of it, it may still wear in. I tried different o-rings, and it came on too easily with the o-rings I had. On such a small battery (10280) the QTC is almost essential (for me), and the amount of twist from low to high is just about perfect, It's almost like having a 2 stage light, but if I need to get precise, I can.

[yoyoman]

Dear "dad," Consider yourself lucky that you couldn't figure out how to buy from Oveready. My problem is stopping.

I have a small mule Nichia 219 on a 10180 body with QTC. I don't need high in real life and the run time is reasonable. The QTC works fine - just don't expect that can dial in an exact level or exactly reproduce a specific level. But you can get it very, very low. And you can have a momentary bright by holding it in your palm and pressing down on the head - the compression gets you to bright. I really like this light.

[arewethereyetdad]

If ur having any problems picking or getting a light, please contact me. I am friends with peak and would love to help you get a light.


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I appreciate that. I, too, am friends with Peak. No prob buying direct from them - just from their partners!

[Costetl]

Who will be ordering a momentary switch for their Peak light? The new QTC ones will be out soon I have heard


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[VeloWeave]

Who will be ordering a momentary switch for their Peak light? The new QTC ones will be out soon I have heard


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Mine just came yesterday. I like the momentary switch. What is different about the new QTC ones?

[Costetl]

They will work with your QTC lights


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[VeloWeave]

I've found that you really have to press down on the momentary switch to get the highest output. I can't really sustain that level of pressure comfortably for too long. Is this what others have found too?

[Costetl]

I've found that you really have to press down on the momentary switch to get the highest output. I can't really sustain that level of pressure comfortably for too long. Is this what others have found too?

It's a "momentary switch". It's not meant to be used to get full blast for a long period of time. If u want high long, twist the head. It also depends on the body. If its non QTC, it's just on or off. I recommend picking up a new QTC switch. If you are interested in one of the new ones, please PM me


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